Double Check-Am I doing everything right?

[Ashley Clifford]

Also Ashley I just viewed your pics. Now let’s think for a bit. Is your Beardie gonna fly to get to that hammock or jump and land on tile? Lower the hammock more in the corner and buy a flat nice bashing platform & place that in front of the hammock on the hot side & the zoomed heat lamp above amd Reptisun long Uvb in the back going across. The log in the center so he can rest on the cool side which is the center. But his basking platform is nowhere to be found unless it’s a log, which is far away from the lamps thank god or he wud be burned with the powersun and the blinding red light. Also they like to watch tv & look out the window at things. Here’s a pic of mine my hot side is on the right!! I bought soft pillows from petstore too! They like comfy and soft and cushiony. Donut pillows are awesome for them too. The hammock that geeen one u have can get caught in their claws so switch to the woven one. Also I place a yellow towel on the hammock & a fleece blanket under the hammock so he can have shade and hide from the UVb when she needs too. And one of my Beardies has a big sqaure pillow I took from a cat Ned I bought cuz her temp sky rockets so I lowered the platform and she can go o. Hammock too which is a bit higher. But it’s reachable for her or I have pillows and soft stuff so she doesn’t hurt herself mines 4.5 yrs old the other a year.

Hi Julee-( and all others I’ve addressed some others comments as well)

Nico likes to climb he has no issue climbing up the driftwood onto the hammock and he either climbes back down or he kinda slunks down onto his log that’s in the center. He doesn’t land on tile. I have put fleece cuts of a blanket in their with him as he often falls asleep snuggled up with me but he kicks them into a ball the following day so I remove them.

again, I will look into the lights as he’s coming to a new bulb anyways and I don’t want him to have too much uvb as some have voiced as the issue with the powersun. This being said I DO use a probe digital thermometer in basking area which never gets over 105 so I don’t see how the claims of too hot are made it’s often around 95. Then I have digital hergrometers on each end with temp readings and the dial in the center so I can see the variation of temp and humidity through out the tank. He is able to hide his whole body under his big log hide whenever he wants. He doesn’t use the water bowl much but to be honest I put it in to boost his humidity because I have a very dry house and without it his tank was about 15%, with it it stays around 30-35 on cool side.

it makes me angry that full grown adults working in pet stores give miss information regarding lights ect. I read the carton it did not warn about too much uvb or say only for use in walk in enclosures or anything that would suggest not to use it. I research all the time and did a lot prior to getting Nico but the information out there is so contradicting at times. I stopped going to my local pet shop unless I have to due to their blatant ignorance. They were feeding a hatchling (apparently they can sell them that young according to this woman) main diet of meal worms. I told her they aren’t supposed to have them until one year and only as treats if at all due to impaction dangers but she just argued that they’ve always done that. Wish there were a way to report them but any way, my point is I don’t listen to pet store workers so much as in the beginning I would get opinions and have them point out product then I read labels and look online and make the best choice I can based on all the info I can find.

as for a bigger tank, I’d love to get him a little larger side opening viv but I don’t have the money right now. Now this is not to say I can’t afford him as like I’ve mentioned I’ve spent a lot on everything he has and I’m constantly buying more and doing more. His insects alone run about $60/week lol but I am going to update his lighting so everyone with those concerns please rest assured, I am not an irresponsible pet owner.

For anyone worried about him roaming free, I work from home and have a routine where after the kids get on the bus, I clean and vacuum, then Nico is taken out and I work from a laptop within view of him at all times. He watches tv or watches the bird feeders out the window mostly. He’s so used to this routine that if I have an appointment or get busy and don’t take him out right away, he knocks on the glass and goes back and forth excitedly when I’m in view.

it sounds like other than being misled on my lights, I’ve done a decent job with him

thank you all for the concern and suggestions I came here for experienced knowledgeable opinions so this is great!


ashley

 

[Ashley Clifford]

You are giving out false information, do your research before answering questions

http://www.norcalherp.com/uploads/8/0/8/3/80835988/beardeddragoncare_ver2.pdf

All pet stores should be required to give this guide initially! With a few additional topics! Great sheet

 

[Ashley Clifford]

Does anyone have experience and knowledge about building a safe viv? I’m good with projects and wonder if it might be the way to go rather than buying one that’s a lot of money and still not exactly what I want. The only thing that worries me about constructing one myself is safety where heat is used.

 

[HoomanSlave]

Does anyone have experience and knowledge about building a safe viv? I’m good with projects and wonder if it might be the way to go rather than buying one that’s a lot of money and still not exactly what I want. The only thing that worries me about constructing one myself is safety where heat is used.

You can repurpose an old dresser if it's big enough, but you'll have to install hooks or velcro for the lights.

Converting Furniture Into Reptile Enclosure | DIY | Bantam.Earth

In this step-by-step tutorial, I show you how I turned a cheap bookshelf into an entertainment center and than converted it into a reptile enclosure!

bantam.earth

Converting a Dresser into a cage.

My fiancee and i wanted to build our ball python a permanent house. So we found a $20 dresser at a garage sale and ripped out all the insides. http://www.geckosunlimited.com/community/gallery/data/500/thumbs/dresser_snake_cage_009.JPG After we got that we went to home depot and bought a 4x8...

ball-pythons.net

You can also build a basic wooden box with sliding/fron-opening glass doors.
This series is helpful:

 

[Ashley Clifford]

Ashley,

please please please remove the powersun it’s deadly!!! and he should not be inches from it. READ the powersun he should be minimum 16Inches away from it minimum; it’s deadly amd can kill. I had many owners roast their dragons to death from that power sun and u have a 160watt?? My god!! Remove it and get a $12 zoomed 100Watt clear basking bulb and order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 that’s all u need. Sadie I s giving u wrong info!!! We works with breeders and vets. Please a listen to me and read the box on the powersun!! That has UVB then u are also is taking the Reptisun T8 Thats way too much UVb!! Please remove the PowerSun & get the $12 zoomed and the Reptisun that’s it. Also letting him roam they eat anything on the ground so make sure all is picked up.

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

**UPDATE**
I removed the red bulb, removed the powersun it has reached its 12 months so it wasn’t worth distancing it and needing more heat.
Added plain clear basking bulb and mounted my existing 24 inch T8 uv fixture under screen.
Tried buying the reptisun 36” 10.0 at local pet store got home wouldn’t turn on returned to find it was their only fixture. Been searching online for T5 high output 10.0 online 30” or bigger and bulb but not having luck. If anyone knows where to get these let me know.

Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun Terrarium Hood​

10.0 bulb to match

will continue looking into building larger viv or purchasing one if one comes along that’s more affordable than building.​

thanks!

 

[Bostonfinest]

**UPDATE**
I removed the red bulb, removed the powersun it has reached its 12 months so it wasn’t worth distancing it and needing more heat.
Added plain clear basking bulb and mounted my existing 24 inch T8 uv fixture under screen.
Tried buying the reptisun 36” 10.0 at local pet store got home wouldn’t turn on returned to find it was their only fixture. Been searching online for T5 high output 10.0 online 30” or bigger and bulb but not having luck. If anyone knows where to get these let me know.

Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun Terrarium Hood​

10.0 bulb to match

will continue looking into building larger viv or purchasing one if one comes along that’s more affordable than building.​

thanks!

Go to this site to buy T5 fixture and T5 tube light

www.reptilebasics.com

 

[Thomas J sobczynski]

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

I think you have everything covered

 

[Julee1971]

I just want to say, Julee and Sadie, you both make this a daunting place for new or inexperienced bearded dragon owners to come and seek advice. The fact people have signed up in the first place and started threads is a step in the right direction, seeking information and help to improve their bearded dragons environment and life. The way in which you both reply to people can really add to the stresses and anxiety many people experience when getting to grips with their dragon and husbandry. It is possible to offer advice and guidance whilst stressing the importance of certain things and pointing out failures without coming across patronising, arrogant and quite frankly, very rude. I don’t think either of you are yet to grasp this.

Hi I apologize. It’s frustrating when people don’t listen or I have Sadie contradicting. Call Carolina Custom Cages to confirm or email them; they have lots of knowledge. We rescue and rehome so we have seen & experienced it all. Basically a Beardie needs a CLEAR zoomed heat bulb for Heat & a long tubular Reptisun 10.0 T5 fro UVB. The length should cover 70 prcnt of the tank. Switch out this UVB once every 10-12mnths. Never colored or coiled bulbs. Lights on 10-12 hours in the winter & 12-14 in the summer. No lights on at nite ever; pure dark and quiet like a human and baths twice a week minimum/more if shedding for at least 15min on lukewarm dechlorinated water. Use reptisafe if u don’t have filtered watering system. Dubias & crickets dusted in calcium once per day/4 times a week & once per week with Herptivite. Also always 2plates of fresh veggies/greens. Google staple greens/veggies for Beardies. NO sand substrate ever and no mealworms it impacts them. That’s it. Take them out to play/exercise for an hour a day; I crank my heater to 79 in the house if there’s no sun out & I’m letting them lounge around the outside monitored of course.

 

[Sadie]

**UPDATE**
I removed the red bulb, removed the powersun it has reached its 12 months so it wasn’t worth distancing it and needing more heat.
Added plain clear basking bulb and mounted my existing 24 inch T8 uv fixture under screen.
Tried buying the reptisun 36” 10.0 at local pet store got home wouldn’t turn on returned to find it was their only fixture. Been searching online for T5 high output 10.0 online 30” or bigger and bulb but not having luck. If anyone knows where to get these let me know.

Zoo Med T5 HO Reptisun Terrarium Hood​

10.0 bulb to match

will continue looking into building larger viv or purchasing one if one comes along that’s more affordable than building.​

thanks!

Make sure your T 8 is 6-8 inches directly above the basking decor-- distance and placement for the T 5 will be different- please post when you get it

 

[Bostonfinest]

Hi I apologize. It’s frustrating when people don’t listen or I have Sadie contradicting. Call Carolina Custom Cages to confirm or email them; they have lots of knowledge. We rescue and rehome so we have seen & experienced it all. Basically a Beardie needs a CLEAR zoomed heat bulb for Heat & a long tubular Reptisun 10.0 T5 fro UVB. The length should cover 70 prcnt of the tank. Switch out this UVB once every 10-12mnths. Never colored or coiled bulbs. Lights on 10-12 hours in the winter & 12-14 in the summer. No lights on at nite ever; pure dark and quiet like a human and baths twice a week minimum/more if shedding for at least 15min on lukewarm dechlorinated water. Use reptisafe if u don’t have filtered watering system. Dubias & crickets dusted in calcium once per day/4 times a week & once per week with Herptivite. Also always 2plates of fresh veggies/greens. Google staple greens/veggies for Beardies. NO sand substrate ever and no mealworms it impacts them. That’s it. Take them out to play/exercise for an hour a day; I crank my heater to 79 in the house if there’s no sun out & I’m letting them lounge around the outside monitored of course.

What will you tell a person to feed if Dubia is Illegal in their area to just feed crickets?

 

[HoomanSlave]

What will you tell a person to feed if Dubia is Illegal in their area to just feed crickets?

Probably crickets and superworms, but not mealworms because it "destroys their tummies" and discoids and BSFL will somehow impact them.

 

[Bostonfinest]

Probably crickets and superworms, but not mealworms because it "destroys their tummies" and discoids and BSFL will somehow impact them.

LOL.... I don’t know where Julee1971 get that information from. Nothing against crickets but that is my last choice of staple insects. Silkworms, Dubia Roaches, BSFL and even Butterworms before crickets. The die fast and then produce a gas to kill the other crickets, they are escape artist.

 

[HoomanSlave]

LOL.... I don’t know where Julee1971 get that information from. Nothing against crickets but that is my last choice of staple insects. Silkworms, Dubia Roaches, BSFL and even Butterworms before crickets. The die fast and then produce a gas to kill the other crickets, they are escape artist.

Crickets are my worst enemy... I may or may not have been traumatized after an incident involving an escaped cricket and an uncovered pot of mac n' cheese.

 

[Bostonfinest]

Crickets are my worst enemy... I may or may not have been traumatized after an incident involving an escaped cricket and an uncovered pot of mac n' cheese.

I am glad my boy don’t like crickets anymore. I wonder what she will say about Repashy products

 

[Broly]

Crickets are my worst enemy... I may or may not have been traumatized after an incident involving an escaped cricket and an uncovered pot of mac n' cheese.

I had my first cricket escape today.. I almost didn’t make it in time to pick my son up from school because I was too busy flapping about retrieving the damn cricket!

 

[Bostonfinest]

I had my first cricket escape today.. I almost didn’t make it in time to pick my son up from school because I was too busy flapping about retrieving the damn cricket!

They are escape artist

 

[crystalmedle]

I agree please get rid of the colored bulb colored bulb can cause long term eye damage and it disrupts the sleep dragons like it cool and dark ----- the T 8 is good for a back up to the PowerSun but it should go into the tank - the screen is blocking 30% of the rays and T 8's are not strong enough to go thru the screen -- the screen looks like it has wide holes so it you wanted you could get a T 5 - you would need to buy another fixture tho -- your set up sounds good but you dont need the heat mat either --- dragons heat from their backs not their stomachs -- if you need extra heat get a heat emitter CHE -- you do not need one if your tank is not falling below 65 at nite -- it sounds like you have the PowerSun set up for good heating but as far as UVB not sure if hes getting adequate w/ it being above the screen -- I have been told those need to be unobstructed meaning no screen and people often use stands over the tank so they can lower or higher the bulb -- so its good you have the T 8 --

I took my breaded dragon to the vet. She's 9 months old. I was told the correct setup is UVB light needs to be T10. Tank size for an adult needs to be 55 to 75. Humidity should be at 30 or 40. One side heating at 95 to 100. Other side 70 to 75 ( can't be under 60). No lights at night (mine is on a timer) A lot of people don't agree with a heating pad. Which I didn't when I did my research. But my vet said yes a heating pad does need to be added with a rag between the glass and your vinyl. So I added the heating pad and have not had any issues. It stays on 24/7. Crazy thing is I know 3 people besides myself that has a dragon. And we all have a different setups and our dragons are all healthy. Find a vet you trust and take he/her in for a checkup and go over your setup and diet. It was the best thing I have done. It gave me a piece of mine and I made 2 changes to my tank.

 

[Sadie]

I took my breaded dragon to the vet. She's 9 months old. I was told the correct setup is UVB light needs to be T10. Tank size for an adult needs to be 55 to 75. Humidity should be at 30 or 40. One side heating at 95 to 100. Other side 70 to 75 ( can't be under 60). No lights at night (mine is on a timer) A lot of people don't agree with a heating pad. Which I didn't when I did my research. But my vet said yes a heating pad does need to be added with a rag between the glass and your vinyl. So I added the heating pad and have not had any issues. It stays on 24/7. Crazy thing is I know 3 people besides myself that has a dragon. And we all have a different setups and our dragons are all healthy. Find a vet you trust and take he/her in for a checkup and go over your setup and diet. It was the best thing I have done. It gave me a piece of mine and I made 2 changes to my tank.

I have not heard of a T 10--- heating pads are not recommended as dragons heat from their backs -- Cool side of the tank should be 80- middle of tank should be 90's and basking temps 95-110 a gradient heat is better then they can pick the spot they want to bask -- a optimal tank size for a adult dragon is 75-120 -- I dont want to contradict your vet but a lot of times vets give bad advice as well - if you need extra heat in the tank its best to use a CHE and only if your tank is falling below 65 at nite --- a heating pad is used for dragons if they are sick and the person does not have a CHE then it can be used --- but CHE's are the best way to keep extra heat in the tank -- sorry but I dont agree w/ the advice your vet gave -- I dont want to sound mean or anything but after having dragons for the last 10 years I have come to learn what works and what does not work -- again I apologize

 

[HoomanSlave]

The heating pad won't do much for the temps, they only provide heat in a localized area, especially when mounted on the wall. I can't find anything on T10 lights... Perhaps your vet meant a 10.0 or 10% bulb?

 

[Ashley Clifford]

I’m assuming the vet meant 10.0