Double Check-Am I doing everything right?

[Ashley Clifford]

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

 

[Julee1971]

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

Ashley......oh My goodness. REMOVE the red nocturnal light asap, REMOVE the heat matt underneath asap. Please order A Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length should Cover 70 percent of the tank and buy a clear Zoomed basking bulb for heat 75 watt or 100watt. That’s it. All u need is the zoomed clear basing bulb and Reptisun 10.0 T5 Only. Never ever ever use colored bulbs or coiled bulbs ever it’s horrible for their eyes. At night pure dark and quiet when they sleep; like humans. And if the temp In tank drops below 70 at nite, then buy/use a ceramic heat emitter which release heat but no light. The (Heat & UVB) should be on for 12-14 hours in the summer & 10-12 in the winter. Do not feed him until an hour or 2 after he’s been bashing. Then last feeding he needs heat and uvb for 2hours; so don’t feed him late but if I do keep them on for 2 hours so he can digest the food. Baths need to be 2per week minimum for 15min or more in dechlorinated lukewarm water use REPTISAFE on the water it kills the chlorine. Most the Beardies 2-3 times a day ty ty need it and love it, again In Dechlorinated filtered water always for drinking & bathing. The hygrometer should be digital and place it on the hot side 2inches below the top of cage in basking area. The humidity should be 30-40 never higher than 40. Also, tray and give him STAPLE greens/veggies: Best ones are: dandelions, mustard/collard greens, endives, butternut squash, yellow squash, green beans & snap peas. Fruits as a treat 1-2 times per week blueberries, mangoes and papaya are the best ones. DONOT feed spinach it binds to calcium, carrots are high in vitamin A which is toxic and kale contains Oxalates so feed once in a while to not at all. Up to the Calcium powder use REPCAL and dust once per day 3-4 times a week and on the off days do herptivite once per week. Great on the proteins large crickets and Dubia Roaches you can do 15-20 and always 2plates of a mix of the 2-3 greens/veggies cut up to size. Also another good one is super worms u can do 2-5 per day if u want or a few times a week in addition to some crickets/Dubias. Other than that u r doign great. Remove the above & order the Reptisun. Also your tank is only 12 feet deep way too small he needs at least 24 deep & 48 long and 24-36 high. You should consider getting him a 120 gallon tank at his age (Adults) need a 120 gallon minimum; it’s $550 online amd doors open in the front so u can clean the poop instantly. Mine poop once per day once in a while they skip a day I bath them in warm water amd rub their time gently downwards and she poops in the water. Also dotm ever use sand substrate it’s horrible for their tummy and impacts them coz they ingest it. GLuck

 

[Sadie]

I agree please get rid of the colored bulb colored bulb can cause long term eye damage and it disrupts the sleep dragons like it cool and dark ----- the T 8 is good for a back up to the PowerSun but it should go into the tank - the screen is blocking 30% of the rays and T 8's are not strong enough to go thru the screen -- the screen looks like it has wide holes so it you wanted you could get a T 5 - you would need to buy another fixture tho -- your set up sounds good but you dont need the heat mat either --- dragons heat from their backs not their stomachs -- if you need extra heat get a heat emitter CHE -- you do not need one if your tank is not falling below 65 at nite -- it sounds like you have the PowerSun set up for good heating but as far as UVB not sure if hes getting adequate w/ it being above the screen -- I have been told those need to be unobstructed meaning no screen and people often use stands over the tank so they can lower or higher the bulb -- so its good you have the T 8 --

 

[Ashley Clifford]

Thank you for the suggestions. I will replace the red heat lamp with a ceramic heat bulb. His basking bulb is clear and is uva, uvb and heat all in one 160 watt bulb and he basks for hours before and after eating daily just inches from it. I will see about mounting the other T8 under the screen but yes the holes are wide. I did not mention the huge variety of foods I constantly mix in to his staple diet simply because it would take a long time but yes he always gets arugula because he loves it but I mix in another green such as mustard and dandelion regularly and I swap out veggies to “top” the salad as well. I also feed my insects a buteious diet and dust 4 days a week one of which is vitamins. He spends a lot of time out of his tank and basks on his pillow in my window which gets excellent sun year round. When he’s not basking in his tank he’s out being held running around or basking in my window.

as far as the cage size, I feel like it’s plenty big given the tons of threads I’ve read on here and the fact that he’s let out and handled every day. I also question the 2 baths a day thing. That seems a bit extreme and my guy wouldn’t be interested in it that much either, but more so I question if that’s really necessary. Ive done a lot of research and been to my exotic vet and asked the countless questions as well.
I’m very appreciative of the advice and will take all of this into consideration!

thank you!!

 

[Sadie]

Thank you for the suggestions. I will replace the red heat lamp with a ceramic heat bulb. His basking bulb is clear and is uva, uvb and heat all in one 160 watt bulb and he basks for hours before and after eating daily just inches from it. I will see about mounting the other T8 under the screen but yes the holes are wide. I did not mention the huge variety of foods I constantly mix in to his staple diet simply because it would take a long time but yes he always gets arugula because he loves it but I mix in another green such as mustard and dandelion regularly and I swap out veggies to “top” the salad as well. I also feed my insects a buteious diet and dust 4 days a week one of which is vitamins. He spends a lot of time out of his tank and basks on his pillow in my window which gets excellent sun year round. When he’s not basking in his tank he’s out being held running around or basking in my window.

as far as the cage size, I feel like it’s plenty big given the tons of threads I’ve read on here and the fact that he’s let out and handled every day. I also question the 2 baths a day thing. That seems a bit extreme and my guy wouldn’t be interested in it that much either, but more so I question if that’s really necessary. Ive done a lot of research and been to my exotic vet and asked the countless questions as well.
I’m very appreciative of the advice and will take all of this into consideration!

thank you!!View attachment 24515View attachment 24516

Dragons love variety so it sounds like he's got it good - the windows are good for entertainment but not much for UVB the window blocks the UVB so he's not getting much there- if you need help hanging the fixture let me know I will post some ways to hang-- your dragon does not need daily bathing or 2 times a week - too much will dry their scales out they are a dessert animal bathing is not necessary unless he only drinks from bathing or he's pooped all over himself-

 

[Ashley Clifford]

Dragons love variety so it sounds like he's got it good - the windows are good for entertainment but not much for UVB the window blocks the UVB so he's not getting much there- if you need help hanging the fixture let me know I will post some ways to hang-- your dragon does not need daily bathing or 2 times a week - too much will dry their scales out they are a dessert animal bathing is not necessary unless he only drinks from bathing or he's pooped all over himself-

What do you have in mind? I was thinking using large plastic zip ties one on each end so it can’t fall. Thoughts?

 

[Sadie]

What do you have in mind? I was thinking using large plastic zip ties one on each end so it can’t fall. Thoughts?

Yes those will work --- or you can use 3 M Velcro fasteners -- wire picture frame hangers -- potted plant hangers or some TAK TY cable and hook fasteners they look like Velcro straps you can try Walmart

 

[Julee1971]

What do you have in mind? I was thinking using large plastic zip ties one on each end so it can’t fall. Thoughts?

Ashley,

please please please remove the powersun it’s deadly!!! and he should not be inches from it. READ the powersun he should be minimum 16Inches away from it minimum; it’s deadly amd can kill. I had many owners roast their dragons to death from that power sun and u have a 160watt?? My god!! Remove it and get a $12 zoomed 100Watt clear basking bulb and order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 that’s all u need. Sadie I s giving u wrong info!!! We works with breeders and vets. Please a listen to me and read the box on the powersun!! That has UVB then u are also is taking the Reptisun T8 Thats way too much UVb!! Please remove the PowerSun & get the $12 zoomed and the Reptisun that’s it. Also letting him roam they eat anything on the ground so make sure all is picked up.

 

[Julee1971]

Dragons love variety so it sounds like he's got it good - the windows are good for entertainment but not much for UVB the window blocks the UVB so he's not getting much there- if you need help hanging the fixture let me know I will post some ways to hang-- your dragon does not need daily bathing or 2 times a week - too much will dry their scales out they are a dessert animal bathing is not necessary unless he only drinks from bathing or he's pooped all over himself-

SADIE are u insane???? She is telling us that she is using a 160 Watt powersun!!! That’s Death & overkill & u are pushing her to also install a T8!! More UVB & the Beardie is inches from the PowerSun?? That’s insane. Read the Box 16imcjes minimum away!! But remove it all 2getwhr worst thing u can use!! Sadie u are a narcissit u have no caring bone in your body and want to kill reptiles it seems like!! Ashley please listen or pic up the phone or Google and read!! Or ask breeders. I am giving u the best info possible. Do u want me to send u a gift card to buy the right stuff?? What’s it goign to take!! Buy the zoomed heat lamp and the Reptisun 10.0 T5 and that’s it!!!!!

 

[Ashley Clifford]

I am sorry but it was sold to me by a reptile store, everything I have was and I have researched and am unable to find where they are dangerous or not recommended for them. It sounds like you are suggesting he is getting too much uvb?? Yet worried he’s not getting enough because it isn’t mounted inside his tank. I think I’m going to reach out to my bet tomorrow because this website is starting to be like the rest of the internet with contradicting information. I have over $1000 invested in his set up already and he seems very healthy and happy so I want to be sure before I go changing a bunch of stuff. The reason I went with a 160w was due to the 100 not being able to heat the basking area to a high enough temp, likely due to the large size.
Thank you for your concern I will certainly look into your suggestions.

 

[Bostonfinest]

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

I would take out the water dish, that can raise the humidity whic can cause respiratory infection. You can soak him twice a week and spray his veggies to keep him hydrated

 

[Ashley Clifford]

Ashley,

please please please remove the powersun it’s deadly!!! and he should not be inches from it. READ the powersun he should be minimum 16Inches away from it minimum; it’s deadly amd can kill. I had many owners roast their dragons to death from that power sun and u have a 160watt?? My god!! Remove it and get a $12 zoomed 100Watt clear basking bulb and order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 that’s all u need. Sadie I s giving u wrong info!!! We works with breeders and vets. Please a listen to me and read the box on the powersun!! That has UVB then u are also is taking the Reptisun T8 Thats way too much UVb!! Please remove the PowerSun & get the $12 zoomed and the Reptisun that’s it. Also letting him roam they eat anything on the ground so make sure all is picked up.

I will try the zoomed 100 watt, but my worry is how can this power sun bulb fry an animal if it struggles to make his hammock (basking spot) 105 degrees? That’s with a probe thermometer.

 

[Julee1971]

I am sorry but it was sold to me by a reptile store, everything I have was and I have researched and am unable to find where they are dangerous or not recommended for them. It sounds like you are suggesting he is getting too much uvb?? Yet worried he’s not getting enough because it isn’t mounted inside his tank. I think I’m going to reach out to my bet tomorrow because this website is starting to be like the rest of the internet with contradicting information. I have over $1000 invested in his set up already and he seems very healthy and happy so I want to be sure before I go changing a bunch of stuff. The reason I went with a 160w was due to the 100 not being able to heat the basking area to a high enough temp, likely due to the large size.
Thank you for your concern I will certainly look into your suggestions.

Hi Ashley
Most pet stores give wrong info due to the teenagers workign there give incorrect and harmful info. Make sure it’s a Reptile Vet that u seek info from. The PowerSun Is deadly; just go to petco or Petsmart to buy the zoomed heat lamp use and u can return all stuff use it try it amd return it after 30 days. The Reptisun needs to be reordered from Amazon & it is a MUST; the 10.0 T5 for UVB the length shoidl cover 70 percent of the tank and u can get a Zoomed 150 Watt clear bulb for Heat. Yoru tank is 36 Inches high only. How high is is bashing platform? There’s no way u are mess ing the temps properly my tank is 18high and I have to use a 75Watt ans raise the bulb above the screen with a bulb riser. U need a digital thermometer with a probe it’s $10 and u place it on the platform it takes 45 min or so to heat up then u can measure your temp get a lowe or higher platform and or have Levels for the Beardie or a hammock on the hot side top so he has high and low areas to bask. Your Beardie is an adult temp should be 95-98 max 100. Mine like it at 95-97 only.

I will try the zoomed 100 watt, but my worry is how can this power sun bulb fry an animal if it struggles to make his hammock (basking spot) 105 degrees? That’s with a probe thermometer.

You can use a 150 watt zoomed if u need it hotter. Buy both and try both the 100 Watt & of that doesn’t work then u try the 150 watt and you see. you can use and return them. But then u will need the Reptisun 10.0 T5 asap he needs UVB also. Use the powersun till u get your other items. Amazon or “Carolina Custom Cages” for the Reptisun & petco or Petsmart for the zoomed clear bulb. Sadly let’s Pres give wrong info a bunch of dumb kids workign there!! CALL “Carolina Custom Cages” or email them and speak with them they breed and sell cages & lights and they will also guide u; the wife is amazing & full of knowledge and info. And she sells the Reptisun for a good price. If u call a vet it needs to be a reptile vet only.

 

[Bostonfinest]

Ashley......oh My goodness. REMOVE the red nocturnal light asap, REMOVE the heat matt underneath asap. Please order A Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length should Cover 70 percent of the tank and buy a clear Zoomed basking bulb for heat 75 watt or 100watt. That’s it. All u need is the zoomed clear basing bulb and Reptisun 10.0 T5 Only. Never ever ever use colored bulbs or coiled bulbs ever it’s horrible for their eyes. At night pure dark and quiet when they sleep; like humans. And if the temp In tank drops below 70 at nite, then buy/use a ceramic heat emitter which release heat but no light. The (Heat & UVB) should be on for 12-14 hours in the summer & 10-12 in the winter. Do not feed him until an hour or 2 after he’s been bashing. Then last feeding he needs heat and uvb for 2hours; so don’t feed him late but if I do keep them on for 2 hours so he can digest the food. Baths need to be 2per week minimum for 15min or more in dechlorinated lukewarm water use REPTISAFE on the water it kills the chlorine. Most the Beardies 2-3 times a day ty ty need it and love it, again In Dechlorinated filtered water always for drinking & bathing. The hygrometer should be digital and place it on the hot side 2inches below the top of cage in basking area. The humidity should be 30-40 never higher than 40. Also, tray and give him STAPLE greens/veggies: Best ones are: dandelions, mustard/collard greens, endives, butternut squash, yellow squash, green beans & snap peas. Fruits as a treat 1-2 times per week blueberries, mangoes and papaya are the best ones. DONOT feed spinach it binds to calcium, carrots are high in vitamin A which is toxic and kale contains Oxalates so feed once in a while to not at all. Up to the Calcium powder use REPCAL and dust once per day 3-4 times a week and on the off days do herptivite once per week. Great on the proteins large crickets and Dubia Roaches you can do 15-20 and always 2plates of a mix of the 2-3 greens/veggies cut up to size. Also another good one is super worms u can do 2-5 per day if u want or a few times a week in addition to some crickets/Dubias. Other than that u r doign great. Remove the above & order the Reptisun. Also your tank is only 12 feet deep way too small he needs at least 24 deep & 48 long and 24-36 high. You should consider getting him a 120 gallon tank at his age (Adults) need a 120 gallon minimum; it’s $550 online amd doors open in the front so u can clean the poop instantly. Mine poop once per day once in a while they skip a day I bath them in warm water amd rub their time gently downwards and she poops in the water. Also dotm ever use sand substrate it’s horrible for their tummy and impacts them coz they ingest it. GLuck

Ashley......oh My goodness. REMOVE the red nocturnal light asap, REMOVE the heat matt underneath asap. Please order A Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length should Cover 70 percent of the tank and buy a clear Zoomed basking bulb for heat 75 watt or 100watt. That’s it. All u need is the zoomed clear basing bulb and Reptisun 10.0 T5 Only. Never ever ever use colored bulbs or coiled bulbs ever it’s horrible for their eyes. At night pure dark and quiet when they sleep; like humans. And if the temp In tank drops below 70 at nite, then buy/use a ceramic heat emitter which release heat but no light. The (Heat & UVB) should be on for 12-14 hours in the summer & 10-12 in the winter. Do not feed him until an hour or 2 after he’s been bashing. Then last feeding he needs heat and uvb for 2hours; so don’t feed him late but if I do keep them on for 2 hours so he can digest the food. Baths need to be 2per week minimum for 15min or more in dechlorinated lukewarm water use REPTISAFE on the water it kills the chlorine. Most the Beardies 2-3 times a day ty ty need it and love it, again In Dechlorinated filtered water always for drinking & bathing. The hygrometer should be digital and place it on the hot side 2inches below the top of cage in basking area. The humidity should be 30-40 never higher than 40. Also, tray and give him STAPLE greens/veggies: Best ones are: dandelions, mustard/collard greens, endives, butternut squash, yellow squash, green beans & snap peas. Fruits as a treat 1-2 times per week blueberries, mangoes and papaya are the best ones. DONOT feed spinach it binds to calcium, carrots are high in vitamin A which is toxic and kale contains Oxalates so feed once in a while to not at all. Up to the Calcium powder use REPCAL and dust once per day 3-4 times a week and on the off days do herptivite once per week. Great on the proteins large crickets and Dubia Roaches you can do 15-20 and always 2plates of a mix of the 2-3 greens/veggies cut up to size. Also another good one is super worms u can do 2-5 per day if u want or a few times a week in addition to some crickets/Dubias. Other than that u r doign great. Remove the above & order the Reptisun. Also your tank is only 12 feet deep way too small he needs at least 24 deep & 48 long and 24-36 high. You should consider getting him a 120 gallon tank at his age (Adults) need a 120 gallon minimum; it’s $550 online amd doors open in the front so u can clean the poop instantly. Mine poop once per day once in a while they skip a day I bath them in warm water amd rub their time gently downwards and she poops in the water. Also dotm ever use sand substrate it’s horrible for their tummy and impacts them coz they ingest it. GLuck

Actually I want to correct a few things here if the temperature drop below 65 degrees at night you can purchase a che bulb it provide heat but no lights. Kale does NOT bind calcium and can be fed. The minimal size enclosure is a 40 Gallon Breeder, bigger will be better but the bigger the enclosure the harder it will be to get the temperature right

 

[Julee1971]

Well I wud say if it drops to 68 or below. 65 is way to cold for a Beardie. Also, the ceramic Heat emitters should only be used in the winter, Not in the summer. It’s healthy for Beardies to drop their body temp at nite & cool down. But 68 or below is too cold. And 40 gallon is up to “10” mnths of age then u get a 48by24by24 (120Gallon) for adults; it’s only a foot more deep and a foot longer and 6incjes higher than the 40gallon. They need it to thrive, grow, and move around & exercise. And spinach binds to calcium not kale but kale is NOT an everyday feeder at all. Read the script about spinach that’s attached as a photo & click on this link for everyday greens/veggies & the No’s. Kale is NOT an everyday Green!! https://www.beardeddragoncare101.com/best-foods-bearded-dragon/

 

[Julee1971]

I am sorry but it was sold to me by a reptile store, everything I have was and I have researched and am unable to find where they are dangerous or not recommended for them. It sounds like you are suggesting he is getting too much uvb?? Yet worried he’s not getting enough because it isn’t mounted inside his tank. I think I’m going to reach out to my bet tomorrow because this website is starting to be like the rest of the internet with contradicting information. I have over $1000 invested in his set up already and he seems very healthy and happy so I want to be sure before I go changing a bunch of stuff. The reason I went with a 160w was due to the 100 not being able to heat the basking area to a high enough temp, likely due to the large size.
Thank you for your concern I will certainly look into your suggestions.

Here is a Link: also the 160 watt is for a walk-in cage!! Remove it ASAP and order the Reptisun for UVB. Attached is a screenshot of the 160Watt mercury vapor bulb (PowerSun) too close/deadly & your cage is too small for a 169Watt.

Is Mercury Vapor Bulb dangerous?

We bought 2 MVB for our iguana, Exo Terra's Solar Glo 160W. 1 for the habitat and the other one to be mobile around the house when Sartabika isn't inside her room. I've recently came across these articles: Lighting and heating for reptiles: They are not the same thing Mercury Vapor Heat &...

ourreptileforum.com

 

[Julee1971]

Hi All,

My male beardy, Nico, is 13 months old and is very personable and seemingly happy and healthy. I want to run everything i do by this forum in case there is anything I am doing wrong or should do better. (Pictures below as well)

Tank size: Glass 4 foot long x 1 foot wide x 18 inches tall, metal screen top
Substrate: Tile flooring
Furniture: Large corner water dish, food dish, 2 log hide, raised hammock
Thermometers: two digital temp/humidity one at each end, one digital probe placed at basking spot, one scale hygrometer in middle of tank
Additional Heat: Small heat pad under tank on basking side
Lighting(On 12 hour on/off timer): Power sun UV 160w on basking side(Supposed to give both uva & uvb), 15 watt T8 uva & uvb tube light on cool side, 150 watt nocturnal infrared heat lamp (used 24 hours in winter for extra warmth but only at night in summer)
Temperature Average: 95 hot side, 70-75 cool side, 105 basking spot

Diet: Staple-Arugula+ random veggies occasional fruit topping, Dubias or Crickets (dusted with calcium twice a week and dusted with multi once per week, undusted other days)
Treats: Occasional raspberry (he loves these but limit him to one torn up every few weeks), super worms a couple per week
Bath soaks once per week sometimes every two weeks, (more depending on shed or weather) spray misting every other day in summer

Any and all suggestions from experienced owners welcome!

Thank you!
Ashley

Also Ashley I just viewed your pics. Now let’s think for a bit. Is your Beardie gonna fly to get to that hammock or jump and land on tile? Lower the hammock more in the corner and buy a flat nice bashing platform & place that in front of the hammock on the hot side & the zoomed heat lamp above amd Reptisun long Uvb in the back going across. The log in the center so he can rest on the cool side which is the center. But his basking platform is nowhere to be found unless it’s a log, which is far away from the lamps thank god or he wud be burned with the powersun and the blinding red light. Also they like to watch tv & look out the window at things. Here’s a pic of mine my hot side is on the right!! I bought soft pillows from petstore too! They like comfy and soft and cushiony. Donut pillows are awesome for them too. The hammock that geeen one u have can get caught in their claws so switch to the woven one. Also I place a yellow towel on the hammock & a fleece blanket under the hammock so he can have shade and hide from the UVb when she needs too. And one of my Beardies has a big sqaure pillow I took from a cat Ned I bought cuz her temp sky rockets so I lowered the platform and she can go o. Hammock too which is a bit higher. But it’s reachable for her or I have pillows and soft stuff so she doesn’t hurt herself mines 4.5 yrs old the other a year.

 

[Bostonfinest]

Well I wud say if it drops to 68 or below. 65 is way to cold for a Beardie. Also, the ceramic Heat emitters should only be used in the winter, Not in the summer. It’s healthy for Beardies to drop their body temp at nite & cool down. But 68 or below is too cold. And 40 gallon is up to “10” mnths of age then u get a 48by24by24 (120Gallon) for adults; it’s only a foot more deep and a foot longer and 6incjes higher than the 40gallon. They need it to thrive, grow, and move around & exercise. And spinach binds to calcium not kale but kale is NOT an everyday feeder at all. Read the script about spinach that’s attached as a photo & click on this link for everyday greens/veggies & the No’s. Kale is NOT an everyday Green!! https://www.beardeddragoncare101.com/best-foods-bearded-dragon/

You are giving out false information, do your research before answering questions

http://www.norcalherp.com/uploads/8/0/8/3/80835988/beardeddragoncare_ver2.pdf

 

[Bostonfinest]

Kale is a great veggie to feed your beardie they actually have less oxalates than collard greens and collard greens is a staple food

Best Greens for Bearded Dragons: Daily and Weekly Staples

Greens play a major role in your bearded dragon's diet. What greens can bearded dragons eat? Find out the best ones to offer on a daily basis.

dragonsdiet.com

 

[Broly]

I just want to say, Julee and Sadie, you both make this a daunting place for new or inexperienced bearded dragon owners to come and seek advice. The fact people have signed up in the first place and started threads is a step in the right direction, seeking information and help to improve their bearded dragons environment and life. The way in which you both reply to people can really add to the stresses and anxiety many people experience when getting to grips with their dragon and husbandry. It is possible to offer advice and guidance whilst stressing the importance of certain things and pointing out failures without coming across patronising, arrogant and quite frankly, very rude. I don’t think either of you are yet to grasp this.