A little concerned

[showjumper_girl2002]

Hi, we rescue and rehome and I see a few issues here, that can be corrected to help yoir beardie: 1st & most important YES get the coil bulb out ASAP. Order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 if u can’t find it on Amazon u can order it from Carolina Custom Cages. The length U order should cover 70 percent of the tank and u place this long bulb in the back of the tank and the heat lamp more towards the front on the rigth or left side whichever side is your hot side. Also he needs a hideaway to get out of the UVB. So, place a hammock behind the basking heat lamp/behind his basking platform on the hot side, at least 6inches or more below the UVb light cuz they can’t be too close to it. Then place a soft towel over it & a soft fleece blanket underneath so that this can be his hideaway to get away from the UVB. In the WINTER both the UVB & heat need to remain on for 10-12 hours & in the SUMMER 12-14 hours. At night & only in the winter u can use a ceramic heat emitter for warmth if the temp drops below 68; it emits heat but no light. At night they like quiet and pure dark for sleeping. In the winter they have a bit less appetite and a bit less energy so they usually like to call it lights out after about 10 hours or so. Also at about 9mnths of age or so he should be moved to a 120 gallon tank a 40 gallon is too small & will limit their growth, & stress them out. I wud get a 4feet long by 2feet deep by 2feet high is whats recommended. Make sure the basking bulb is a Zoomed CLEAR bulb; No colored or coiled bulbs ever it burns their eyes.
Secondly, the substrate u have is that sand? If so remove it they ingest it. Make sure he’s pooping regularly otherwise he is impacted. Either he’s investing the sand or is impacted from mealworms. Give him Lukewarm baths in dechlorinated water buy Reptisafe if u don’t have a filter system at home, and rub his tummy downwards to get him to poop and if he’s shedding u can do more baths. When they are shedding they eat less, are lethargic & annoyed. So more baths will help with itching Amd help the skin fall of easier/faster. In general always give your beardie 2baths per week for 15min minimum in lukewarm, dechlorinated water. Also how are his poops? R they oval and firm (Healthy) or runny/smelly ( Unhealthy) If runny/diahrea or very smelly he has Coccidia, read up on it. They get it from licking poop or stepping on it that’s why tank needs to be super super clean & poop removed instantly. He needs a vet asap who will do a stool sample test & who will give him ponzuril an antibiotic to clear it up but takes a lot of patience and hardwork to clean; the tank needs to be burned in hot water along with all his accessories & feeding dishes wtc. It’s like lice in the tummy & all bedding carpets anywhere hes walked needs to be carpet cleaned & washed in hot boiling water. I use terry cloth towels as a substrate to keep the tank super clean, and u dump the poop & wash them; u can buy a bag form Home Depot. Also u need a digital thermometer & digital hygrometer those are the only accurate ones that work. Temp 95-97/98 for an adult is good and humidity should only be 30-40; never ever higher than 40. Also if U are feeding him mealworms don’t do it anymore it impacts them. Stick with crickets & Dubia roaches and the greens & veggies are a must. Hornworms & Superworms should only be given to beardies after a year old because it’s harsh on their tummy’s and when they are younger they cannot digest it properly. Also, horn and Supers should only be fed as treats; because they are very very high in Fat. Another cause of lethargy is “Fatty Liver Disease”, so he needs to be on a diet ASAP and if over a year old feed him proteins every other day but the greens/veggies everyday. Get a scale also and weigh the Beardie to make sure he’s not overweight for his age. The best everyday greens/veggies are: mustard greens, collard Greens, dandelions, butternut squash, yellow squash, snap peas and green beans. Never ever do spinach it binds to calcium. Fruits; You can do as treats 2-3 times a week; mango, papaya & blueberries are the best ones. Sugar is bad for them so in small amounts. If his poop is healthy & u upgrade to the Reptisun 10.0 T5, remove the sand, limit the hornworms and feed Dubia roaches and crickets and some super worms, this should fix the issue. Also make sure u dust the proteins 3 times a week/once per Day w/REPCAL calcium powder (phosphorus free) and Herptivite once per week/per day on a Non calcium day. Also u can turn on the tv for them they like mellow soft shows like friends, they love to watch things that’s their form of entertainment. I take mine out for an hour or so a day to exercise and I blast my house heater so it’s warm for him and u need to make sure nothing is on the floors for him to ingest, they eat anything which can destroy their tummy /ingest them.

It’s actually carpet for reptiles, I’m aware of the sand issue. I also do give him baths periodically which he enjoys. He is over a year old and I’m aware of the proper veggies he needs and what he shouldn’t have.

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

Hi consider getting a hammock they love it, & u place a soft towel above it & a soft fleece blanket underneath so he has a hideaway; they need one to escape the UVB and to rest and relax.

He has a hammock which he loves as well as a big cave where he can get completely away from the light.

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

Hi u can place it on top of the screen also is that a T5 or a T8? The T5 is more output and most recommended also set a reminder to replace this every 6mnths the UVb needs replacing Every 6mnths cuz it stops emitting UVB, even tho it’s still on. The tank height is way too low also oelaee consider getting a 4feet long by 2feet high by 2feet deep, they need this to grow and have too to exercise ans movers

It’s a T5. Yep, that’s what I did for my last UVB bulb, I set a 6 month reminder. The tank is 3ft long and just shy of 2 ft high. It is one of the biggest terrariums you can find at a local pet store, in Florida anyway. He also gets play time every day.

I can put it on top but was told the screen is too thick so it should go inside. It’s a heavy duty screen but does have decent sized holes.

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

For now while it’s on top, is it ok to be towards the back or does it need to be centered?

 

[charitykossin]

I’ll get one ASAP! I attached a picture of my tank. How would I utilize a long bulb fixture without it being in the way of the basking lamp’s light/heat?View attachment 25050

It’s takes up the entire top but I just slide my lamps to the front and put that along behind them. You may just have to move the basking spot a bit.

 

[Bostonfinest]

I agree with Sadie, you can purchase the correct UVB from this site https://www.reptilebasics.com/cage-lighting

 

[Bostonfinest]

I thought that is a female thing? Do males go into brumation? I’d like him to have the correct lighting either way so that is great to know so I can correct it ASAP! I would love to know any other possible reasons for the way his behavior has slightly changed so I can catch any other possible issue and address it should fixing the UVB light not help change the current situation.

Males and females go into brumation, how old is he because is he is under 1 year old babies don’t go into brumation. I will start with getting the correct UVB and then a Vet checkup and a fecal exam

 

[Bostonfinest]

Hi, we rescue and rehome and I see a few issues here, that can be corrected to help yoir beardie: 1st & most important YES get the coil bulb out ASAP. Order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 if u can’t find it on Amazon u can order it from Carolina Custom Cages. The length U order should cover 70 percent of the tank and u place this long bulb in the back of the tank and the heat lamp more towards the front on the rigth or left side whichever side is your hot side. Also he needs a hideaway to get out of the UVB. So, place a hammock behind the basking heat lamp/behind his basking platform on the hot side, at least 6inches or more below the UVb light cuz they can’t be too close to it. Then place a soft towel over it & a soft fleece blanket underneath so that this can be his hideaway to get away from the UVB. In the WINTER both the UVB & heat need to remain on for 10-12 hours & in the SUMMER 12-14 hours. At night & only in the winter u can use a ceramic heat emitter for warmth if the temp drops below 68; it emits heat but no light. At night they like quiet and pure dark for sleeping. In the winter they have a bit less appetite and a bit less energy so they usually like to call it lights out after about 10 hours or so. Also at about 9mnths of age or so he should be moved to a 120 gallon tank a 40 gallon is too small & will limit their growth, & stress them out. I wud get a 4feet long by 2feet deep by 2feet high is whats recommended. Make sure the basking bulb is a Zoomed CLEAR bulb; No colored or coiled bulbs ever it burns their eyes.
Secondly, the substrate u have is that sand? If so remove it they ingest it. Make sure he’s pooping regularly otherwise he is impacted. Either he’s investing the sand or is impacted from mealworms. Give him Lukewarm baths in dechlorinated water buy Reptisafe if u don’t have a filter system at home, and rub his tummy downwards to get him to poop and if he’s shedding u can do more baths. When they are shedding they eat less, are lethargic & annoyed. So more baths will help with itching Amd help the skin fall of easier/faster. In general always give your beardie 2baths per week for 15min minimum in lukewarm, dechlorinated water. Also how are his poops? R they oval and firm (Healthy) or runny/smelly ( Unhealthy) If runny/diahrea or very smelly he has Coccidia, read up on it. They get it from licking poop or stepping on it that’s why tank needs to be super super clean & poop removed instantly. He needs a vet asap who will do a stool sample test & who will give him ponzuril an antibiotic to clear it up but takes a lot of patience and hardwork to clean; the tank needs to be burned in hot water along with all his accessories & feeding dishes wtc. It’s like lice in the tummy & all bedding carpets anywhere hes walked needs to be carpet cleaned & washed in hot boiling water. I use terry cloth towels as a substrate to keep the tank super clean, and u dump the poop & wash them; u can buy a bag form Home Depot. Also u need a digital thermometer & digital hygrometer those are the only accurate ones that work. Temp 95-97/98 for an adult is good and humidity should only be 30-40; never ever higher than 40. Also if U are feeding him mealworms don’t do it anymore it impacts them. Stick with crickets & Dubia roaches and the greens & veggies are a must. Hornworms & Superworms should only be given to beardies after a year old because it’s harsh on their tummy’s and when they are younger they cannot digest it properly. Also, horn and Supers should only be fed as treats; because they are very very high in Fat. Another cause of lethargy is “Fatty Liver Disease”, so he needs to be on a diet ASAP and if over a year old feed him proteins every other day but the greens/veggies everyday. Get a scale also and weigh the Beardie to make sure he’s not overweight for his age. The best everyday greens/veggies are: mustard greens, collard Greens, dandelions, butternut squash, yellow squash, snap peas and green beans. Never ever do spinach it binds to calcium. Fruits; You can do as treats 2-3 times a week; mango, papaya & blueberries are the best ones. Sugar is bad for them so in small amounts. If his poop is healthy & u upgrade to the Reptisun 10.0 T5, remove the sand, limit the hornworms and feed Dubia roaches and crickets and some super worms, this should fix the issue. Also make sure u dust the proteins 3 times a week/once per Day w/REPCAL calcium powder (phosphorus free) and Herptivite once per week/per day on a Non calcium day. Also u can turn on the tv for them they like mellow soft shows like friends, they love to watch things that’s their form of entertainment. I take mine out for an hour or so a day to exercise and I blast my house heater so it’s warm for him and u need to make sure nothing is on the floors for him to ingest, they eat anything which can destroy their tummy /ingest them.

Actually enclosure size does NOT stunt the growth and a bearded dragon can live in in a 40 Gallon Breeder no need to upgrade to a bigger size

 

[Bostonfinest]

It’s a T5. Yep, that’s what I did for my last UVB bulb, I set a 6 month reminder. The tank is 3ft long and just shy of 2 ft high. It is one of the biggest terrariums you can find at a local pet store, in Florida anyway. He also gets play time every day.

I can put it on top but was told the screen is too thick so it should go inside. It’s a heavy duty screen but does have decent sized holes. View attachment 25132

The screen do look a little thick. I would recommend changing the lid which you can get from Petsmart or Petco

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

I agree with Sadie, you can purchase the correct UVB from this site https://www.reptilebasics.com/cage-lighting

I beleive this is the correct UVB, it's a T5 10.0

 

[Sadie]

Hi! My light came in . I’m just concerned that there isn’t enough room to safely mount it inside.
View attachment 25128View attachment 25129View attachment 25130

Can you get a pic of the screen from the top -- if that screen is a wide hole type it can go on top -- but if its a fine mesh it will need to go inside --- you can get the UVB situated first then adjust the basking decor -- its easier to move the decor than the UVB ---- how tall is your tank ?

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

Can you get a pic of the screen from the top -- if that screen is a wide hole type it can go on top -- but if its a fine mesh it will need to go inside --- you can get the UVB situated first then adjust the basking decor -- its easier to move the decor than the UVB ---- how tall is your tank ?

This is from the top. The tank is about 19 inches tall. The holes are fairly large, not fine at all.

 

[Sadie]

This is from the top. The tank is about 19 inches tall. The holes are fairly large, not fine at all.

View attachment 25161

Ok that is good it can go.on top place a piece of basking decor directly underneath approx 8-10 inches

 

[Smithy]

Hi all! My beardie, Tiki, is acting slightly different than he used to and I’m not sure it’s normal or if I should be concerned. He’s a very sweet boy and enjoys being out with me and taking baths. He acts completely calm and relaxed, however he is showing, what I’ve read are called stress marks under his belly. I can’t figure out what could be stressing him.

I just changed his UVB bulb and his basking spot runs about 99. There is nothing around his terrarium that has changed or would bother him. I’ve had him a little over a year now and got him when he was a hatchling so he’s a bit over a year old. I noticed he doesn’t seem to bask as much and sometimes stays in his hammock all day (from what I can tell).

He’s also not eating his veggies as regularly or as eagerly as he used to. I do notice he’ll eat a bit every now and then but he will go more than a day without touching them. He used to run to the dish every morning and start chowing down. He does still really enjoy horn worms. He will eat crickets, but doesn’t seem as interested or eager to chase them. I usually have to put them right in front of him.

Overall he seems healthy. He hasn’t lost any weight or anything. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with him turning a year old and maybe getting hormone changes?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. He is my baby and I want to make sure he is ok and know if I should take him to a vet.

He is going through puberty. Hed fine and spend more time with him. People sometimes don't realise how their Dragons actually have feelings. They are somewhat sentient creatures, with active pituitary glands. Show him love and perhaps consider a female for a companion. Be prepared for another enclosure first tho for the young and an incubator first, before considering this.
BeardedDragons can live long and full lives without interacting with other Dragons, however, being a breeder, I like for them to remain in company. But they will get somewhat depressed if left unattended for long periods. They like human interactions and will develop a very close bond (much like canines) with their keepers.

 

[Smithy]

Beardies aren't very social animals. What may look like cuddling or playing could actually be one trying to assert dominance over the other. Many behaviors that look cute (such as piling on top of each other to bask) are stressful for one or both of the beardies and are really the beardies trying to get enough of a resource (such as heat) to survive.

Although actual fighting might not occur, there will still be constant competition for resources such as basking spots, hides, food, and water. One of the beardies will end up cold, thirsty, hungry, or stressed because they cannot get what they need.

The only animal a beardie will truly bond with is a human. Beardies do not feel love towards each other. In the wild, beardies live on their own. They do not mate for life, raise families, or make friends with other dragons. To a bearded dragon, another member of its species is either a potential mate, competition, or food, not a sibling or friend.

Even male/female pairings are problematic over a long period of time because the male will literally breed the female to death.

Sorry but different species are different in nature. With the Minor Species of Pogona Minor, everything mentioned above isn't exactly right. I have been keeping these guys for quite some time now . With Males tho they will fight for territory. I have never had a cold hungry and etc Dragons in my tank either. Actually I've witnessed on several occasions my large Male kill a big wood roach for his missus. Then step back and watch her consume it. In captivity Dragons will adjust to company.
I am like these. Prefer my own company and live alone but would go mad without any "familiar " human activity. Could you imagine living an entire life and never come across your own kind? I don't think it fair or natural. (Each to there own) but my Dragons are very happy, healthy and have attuned and actually seem to appreciate each other's company. Sometimes it appears as if they are very close, as real brothers .I have had many wonderful experiences

Beardies aren't very social animals. What may look like cuddling or playing could actually be one trying to assert dominance over the other. Many behaviors that look cute (such as piling on top of each other to bask) are stressful for one or both of the beardies and are really the beardies trying to get enough of a resource (such as heat) to survive.

Although actual fighting might not occur, there will still be constant competition for resources such as basking spots, hides, food, and water. One of the beardies will end up cold, thirsty, hungry, or stressed because they cannot get what they need.

The only animal a beardie will truly bond with is a human. Beardies do not feel love towards each other. In the wild, beardies live on their own. They do not mate for life, raise families, or make friends with other dragons. To a bearded dragon, another member of its species is either a potential mate, competition, or food, not a sibling or friend.

Even male/female pairings are problematic over a long period of time because the male will literally breed the female to death.

observing their interaction. Two brothers that get along really well so far. I have heard all of what you said before, from others, even Herpetologists and again, respectfully disagree. Central Australian Dragons however do live solitary lives unlike their Western Australian cousins who gather in small groups.