A little concerned

[Smithy]

Hi all! My beardie, Tiki, is acting slightly different than he used to and I’m not sure it’s normal or if I should be concerned. He’s a very sweet boy and enjoys being out with me and taking baths. He acts completely calm and relaxed, however he is showing, what I’ve read are called stress marks under his belly. I can’t figure out what could be stressing him.

I just changed his UVB bulb and his basking spot runs about 99. There is nothing around his terrarium that has changed or would bother him. I’ve had him a little over a year now and got him when he was a hatchling so he’s a bit over a year old. I noticed he doesn’t seem to bask as much and sometimes stays in his hammock all day (from what I can tell).

He’s also not eating his veggies as regularly or as eagerly as he used to. I do notice he’ll eat a bit every now and then but he will go more than a day without touching them. He used to run to the dish every morning and start chowing down. He does still really enjoy horn worms. He will eat crickets, but doesn’t seem as interested or eager to chase them. I usually have to put them right in front of him.

Overall he seems healthy. He hasn’t lost any weight or anything. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with him turning a year old and maybe getting hormone changes?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. He is my baby and I want to make sure he is ok and know if I should take him to a vet.

Well, because he is now blossoming into a virile young man, he is looking for female company. Males would be ok for company, but not really. Its ok when they are still juveniles up to about 8 weeks to introduce anotherone of the same sex, then they take it on as a sibling, for company. But as soon as his hormones have taken over and he becomes a teen, (usually about 6months old ) then he will become territorial. They actually will become intimate sometimes, that concerns me ha ha.
Eventually the situation rights itself provided there is a separate perch to sun-bake under a lamp. I use two low wattage heat ray lamps.if two or more lizards are housed together. I have two males and they keep each other company. I am sure in time he will be ok. Perhaps take him out a bit more, introduce him to people that appreciate lizard chums
I hope he gets his " Bob " back.

View attachment 25063
males can also get fused or impaction around there hemipenes. So ensure to please wash him during breeding season. At least every 3 weeks or so.
I've not had this happen, as I have been made aware of this issue.
If you one day decide to breed him 3ith a female, do not use the D3 calcium powder, its toxic to juvenile Bearded Dragons and Pregnant females. D3 should only be given through the skin as sunlight or ray tubes / lamps.
A well known herpetologist warned me of this when I told her I was going to start breeding and had just purchased a female Pogona Minor for my male Pogona Mitchelli.
I wish you all the best with your bearded friend, and I hope that he cheers up! And it is not serious.
Kind regards

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Yeah, male and females do it. Hopefully its just brumation, but it is good to have the correct lighting

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

Do I need to change anything with his feed or lighting during this time if he is in fact in brumation? I have his lights on from 7am-7pm and he gets fresh salad every morning. I offer insects 2-3 times a week.

 

[BeardieLover<3]

When in brumation they dont eat SO dont disturb or wake him up to feed him, it will make brumation process last longer, but some say also leave fresh food and water in the cage in case they want to eat. If he does eat during brumation make sure he poops though. BUT make sure he is actually brumation don't starve him if he is still moving around sometimes. As for lights if you don't want him in brumation keep lights on for longer and handle him more. But a beardie doesn't need UVB during brumation so no you dont have to leave the lights on. Unless he eats then get him to bask and poop.

 

[HoomanSlave]

Well, because he is now blossoming into a virile young man, he is looking for female company. Males would be ok for company, but not really. Its ok when they are still juveniles up to about 8 weeks to introduce anotherone of the same sex, then they take it on as a sibling, for company. But as soon as his hormones have taken over and he becomes a teen, (usually about 6months old ) then he will become territorial. They actually will become intimate sometimes, that concerns me ha ha.
Eventually the situation rights itself provided there is a separate perch to sun-bake under a lamp. I use two low wattage heat ray lamps.if two or more lizards are housed together. I have two males and they keep each other company. I am sure in time he will be ok. Perhaps take him out a bit more, introduce him to people that appreciate lizard chums
I hope he gets his " Bob " back. View attachment 25061View attachment 25062View attachment 25064View attachment 25063
males can also get fused or impaction around there hemipenes. So ensure to please wash him during breeding season. At least every 3 weeks or so.
I've not had this happen, as I have been made aware of this issue.
If you one day decide to breed him 3ith a female, do not use the D3 calcium powder, its toxic to juvenile Bearded Dragons and Pregnant females. D3 should only be given through the skin as sunlight or ray tubes / lamps.
A well known herpetologist warned me of this when I told her I was going to start breeding and had just purchased a female Pogona Minor for my male Pogona Mitchelli.
I wish you all the best with your bearded friend, and I hope that he cheers up! And it is not serious.
Kind regards

Beardies aren't very social animals. What may look like cuddling or playing could actually be one trying to assert dominance over the other. Many behaviors that look cute (such as piling on top of each other to bask) are stressful for one or both of the beardies and are really the beardies trying to get enough of a resource (such as heat) to survive.

Although actual fighting might not occur, there will still be constant competition for resources such as basking spots, hides, food, and water. One of the beardies will end up cold, thirsty, hungry, or stressed because they cannot get what they need.

The only animal a beardie will truly bond with is a human. Beardies do not feel love towards each other. In the wild, beardies live on their own. They do not mate for life, raise families, or make friends with other dragons. To a bearded dragon, another member of its species is either a potential mate, competition, or food, not a sibling or friend.

Even male/female pairings are problematic over a long period of time because the male will literally breed the female to death.

 

[Sadie]

I just read a detailed article on brumation and I think that may be what’s going on (thank god). He has all the signs, including hardly ever pooing. For some reason I thought brumation had to do with laying eggs . Hopefully that is all that’s going on.


Sadie, I’d still very much love your assistance with the light when it comes in. Want to make sure my boy is well taken care of and happy

Ok see if the UVB changes his behavior then we will go from there

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

When in brumation they dont eat SO dont disturb or wake him up to feed him, it will make brumation process last longer, but some say also leave fresh food and water in the cage in case they want to eat. If he does eat during brumation make sure he poops though. BUT make sure he is actually brumation don't starve him if he is still moving around sometimes. As for lights if you don't want him in brumation keep lights on for longer and handle him more. But a beardie doesn't need UVB during brumation so no you dont have to leave the lights on. Unless he eats then get him to bask and poop.

Thanks! He’s not in a continuous sleep mode, just not moving around much or as interested in food. He will pick at food every now and then. I gave him a bath the other day and that prompted a poo lol. He becomes more alert when I take him out but in his home he is very lazy right now lol.

 

[BeardieLover<3]

Haha ok, just keep an eye on him and keep us updated if anything concerning happens

 

[Sadie]

I just read a detailed article on brumation and I think that may be what’s going on (thank god). He has all the signs, including hardly ever pooing. For some reason I thought brumation had to do with laying eggs . Hopefully that is all that’s going on.


Sadie, I’d still very much love your assistance with the light when it comes in. Want to make sure my boy is well taken care of and happy

Brumation and laying eggs are two separate things --- all dragons will normally brumate there are some that dont but not all dragons lay eggs ONLY females --

 

[Asanchez88]

Hi all! My beardie, Tiki, is acting slightly different than he used to and I’m not sure it’s normal or if I should be concerned. He’s a very sweet boy and enjoys being out with me and taking baths. He acts completely calm and relaxed, however he is showing, what I’ve read are called stress marks under his belly. I can’t figure out what could be stressing him.

I just changed his UVB bulb and his basking spot runs about 99. There is nothing around his terrarium that has changed or would bother him. I’ve had him a little over a year now and got him when he was a hatchling so he’s a bit over a year old. I noticed he doesn’t seem to bask as much and sometimes stays in his hammock all day (from what I can tell).

He’s also not eating his veggies as regularly or as eagerly as he used to. I do notice he’ll eat a bit every now and then but he will go more than a day without touching them. He used to run to the dish every morning and start chowing down. He does still really enjoy horn worms. He will eat crickets, but doesn’t seem as interested or eager to chase them. I usually have to put them right in front of him.

Overall he seems healthy. He hasn’t lost any weight or anything. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with him turning a year old and maybe getting hormone changes?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. He is my baby and I want to make sure he is ok and know if I should take him to a vet.

Sounds like he might be getting ready for brumation which apparently can last awhile.. my guy just came out after like a month and I thought he was dead at some moments.. they basically hybernate for them it’s called “brumation” If you don’t already know look it up and ready about it..

 

[Asanchez88]

It’s actually pretty cool (sorry I didn’t see you already got this answer)

 

[Sadie]

They all slow down in the winter- less eating less active-- since he's a year it's natural for brumation- if all is good w/ your uvb and basking temps I would say brumation- make sure he's hydrated get a weight on him kitchen food scale weigh in grams-- keep track it's common for them to loose some weight but not a lot- he may or may not eat offer food if he wakes up and moving around-

 

[BeardieMom2]

Hi all! My beardie, Tiki, is acting slightly different than he used to and I’m not sure it’s normal or if I should be concerned. He’s a very sweet boy and enjoys being out with me and taking baths. He acts completely calm and relaxed, however he is showing, what I’ve read are called stress marks under his belly. I can’t figure out what could be stressing him.

I just changed his UVB bulb and his basking spot runs about 99. There is nothing around his terrarium that has changed or would bother him. I’ve had him a little over a year now and got him when he was a hatchling so he’s a bit over a year old. I noticed he doesn’t seem to bask as much and sometimes stays in his hammock all day (from what I can tell).

He’s also not eating his veggies as regularly or as eagerly as he used to. I do notice he’ll eat a bit every now and then but he will go more than a day without touching them. He used to run to the dish every morning and start chowing down. He does still really enjoy horn worms. He will eat crickets, but doesn’t seem as interested or eager to chase them. I usually have to put them right in front of him.

Overall he seems healthy. He hasn’t lost any weight or anything. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with him turning a year old and maybe getting hormone changes?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. He is my baby and I want to make sure he is ok and know if I should take him to a vet.

I agree with getting a tube full spectrum UVB light. I place mine inside the tank, see pic. I use command strips to hold it in place. Just stick one strip to the light fixture and the other to the inside of the tank. This allows your baby to get the full dose of UVB provided by those lights.

 

[Sadie]

I agree with getting a tube full spectrum UVB light. I place mine inside the tank, see pic. I use command strips to hold it in place. Just stick one strip to the light fixture and the other to the inside of the tank. This allows your baby to get the full dose of UVB provided by those lights. View attachment 25127

This fixture needs a reflector-- the UVB rays are going all over that tank the reflector projects the rays downward for full effect - and it needs to be directly over head w/ a certain distance - T 5's and T 8's are different

 

[Julee1971]

Hi all! My beardie, Tiki, is acting slightly different than he used to and I’m not sure it’s normal or if I should be concerned. He’s a very sweet boy and enjoys being out with me and taking baths. He acts completely calm and relaxed, however he is showing, what I’ve read are called stress marks under his belly. I can’t figure out what could be stressing him.

I just changed his UVB bulb and his basking spot runs about 99. There is nothing around his terrarium that has changed or would bother him. I’ve had him a little over a year now and got him when he was a hatchling so he’s a bit over a year old. I noticed he doesn’t seem to bask as much and sometimes stays in his hammock all day (from what I can tell).

He’s also not eating his veggies as regularly or as eagerly as he used to. I do notice he’ll eat a bit every now and then but he will go more than a day without touching them. He used to run to the dish every morning and start chowing down. He does still really enjoy horn worms. He will eat crickets, but doesn’t seem as interested or eager to chase them. I usually have to put them right in front of him.

Overall he seems healthy. He hasn’t lost any weight or anything. I’m wondering if this has anything to do with him turning a year old and maybe getting hormone changes?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. He is my baby and I want to make sure he is ok and know if I should take him to a vet.

Hi, we rescue and rehome and I see a few issues here, that can be corrected to help yoir beardie: 1st & most important YES get the coil bulb out ASAP. Order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 if u can’t find it on Amazon u can order it from Carolina Custom Cages. The length U order should cover 70 percent of the tank and u place this long bulb in the back of the tank and the heat lamp more towards the front on the rigth or left side whichever side is your hot side. Also he needs a hideaway to get out of the UVB. So, place a hammock behind the basking heat lamp/behind his basking platform on the hot side, at least 6inches or more below the UVb light cuz they can’t be too close to it. Then place a soft towel over it & a soft fleece blanket underneath so that this can be his hideaway to get away from the UVB. In the WINTER both the UVB & heat need to remain on for 10-12 hours & in the SUMMER 12-14 hours. At night & only in the winter u can use a ceramic heat emitter for warmth if the temp drops below 68; it emits heat but no light. At night they like quiet and pure dark for sleeping. In the winter they have a bit less appetite and a bit less energy so they usually like to call it lights out after about 10 hours or so. Also at about 9mnths of age or so he should be moved to a 120 gallon tank a 40 gallon is too small & will limit their growth, & stress them out. I wud get a 4feet long by 2feet deep by 2feet high is whats recommended. Make sure the basking bulb is a Zoomed CLEAR bulb; No colored or coiled bulbs ever it burns their eyes.
Secondly, the substrate u have is that sand? If so remove it they ingest it. Make sure he’s pooping regularly otherwise he is impacted. Either he’s investing the sand or is impacted from mealworms. Give him Lukewarm baths in dechlorinated water buy Reptisafe if u don’t have a filter system at home, and rub his tummy downwards to get him to poop and if he’s shedding u can do more baths. When they are shedding they eat less, are lethargic & annoyed. So more baths will help with itching Amd help the skin fall of easier/faster. In general always give your beardie 2baths per week for 15min minimum in lukewarm, dechlorinated water. Also how are his poops? R they oval and firm (Healthy) or runny/smelly ( Unhealthy) If runny/diahrea or very smelly he has Coccidia, read up on it. They get it from licking poop or stepping on it that’s why tank needs to be super super clean & poop removed instantly. He needs a vet asap who will do a stool sample test & who will give him ponzuril an antibiotic to clear it up but takes a lot of patience and hardwork to clean; the tank needs to be burned in hot water along with all his accessories & feeding dishes wtc. It’s like lice in the tummy & all bedding carpets anywhere hes walked needs to be carpet cleaned & washed in hot boiling water. I use terry cloth towels as a substrate to keep the tank super clean, and u dump the poop & wash them; u can buy a bag form Home Depot. Also u need a digital thermometer & digital hygrometer those are the only accurate ones that work. Temp 95-97/98 for an adult is good and humidity should only be 30-40; never ever higher than 40. Also if U are feeding him mealworms don’t do it anymore it impacts them. Stick with crickets & Dubia roaches and the greens & veggies are a must. Hornworms & Superworms should only be given to beardies after a year old because it’s harsh on their tummy’s and when they are younger they cannot digest it properly. Also, horn and Supers should only be fed as treats; because they are very very high in Fat. Another cause of lethargy is “Fatty Liver Disease”, so he needs to be on a diet ASAP and if over a year old feed him proteins every other day but the greens/veggies everyday. Get a scale also and weigh the Beardie to make sure he’s not overweight for his age. The best everyday greens/veggies are: mustard greens, collard Greens, dandelions, butternut squash, yellow squash, snap peas and green beans. Never ever do spinach it binds to calcium. Fruits; You can do as treats 2-3 times a week; mango, papaya & blueberries are the best ones. Sugar is bad for them so in small amounts. If his poop is healthy & u upgrade to the Reptisun 10.0 T5, remove the sand, limit the hornworms and feed Dubia roaches and crickets and some super worms, this should fix the issue. Also make sure u dust the proteins 3 times a week/once per Day w/REPCAL calcium powder (phosphorus free) and Herptivite once per week/per day on a Non calcium day. Also u can turn on the tv for them they like mellow soft shows like friends, they love to watch things that’s their form of entertainment. I take mine out for an hour or so a day to exercise and I blast my house heater so it’s warm for him and u need to make sure nothing is on the floors for him to ingest, they eat anything which can destroy their tummy /ingest them.

 

[Julee1971]

I agree with getting a tube full spectrum UVB light. I place mine inside the tank, see pic. I use command strips to hold it in place. Just stick one strip to the light fixture and the other to the inside of the tank. This allows your baby to get the full dose of UVB provided by those lights. View attachment 25127

Hi consider getting a hammock they love it, & u place a soft towel above it & a soft fleece blanket underneath so he has a hideaway; they need one to escape the UVB and to rest and relax.

 

[moogle-mail]

This sounds to me like some brumating! My guy turns into a lazy bones every winter and acts pretty much the same way. (He’s five now!) I trust his knowledge of his own biological clock and just keep an eye on him. When in doubt, give your local vet a call. Otherwise, just make sure he is comfortable and not outwardly stressed (unusually aggressive, non digested food in poo, etc.)

 

[showjumper_girl2002]

Ok good deal!

Hi! My light came in . I’m just concerned that there isn’t enough room to safely mount it inside.

 

[Julee1971]

Hi! My light came in . I’m just concerned that there isn’t enough room to safely mount it inside.
View attachment 25128View attachment 25129View attachment 25130

 

[Julee1971]

Hi u can place it on top of the screen also is that a T5 or a T8? The T5 is more output and most recommended also set a reminder to replace this every 6mnths the UVb needs replacing Every 6mnths cuz it stops emitting UVB, even tho it’s still on. The tank height is way too low also oelaee consider getting a 4feet long by 2feet high by 2feet deep, they need this to grow and have too to exercise ans move