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Worried about my dragon

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
Sadie STOP the 5.0 gives little to NO UVB. U are giving wrong info constantly. Also read what people right and use some common sense Dragonscales said they turn on the lights at 2pm!!! This is horrible/not normal mone go on at 7:30Am everyday 12-14 in the summer and 10-12 In the winter. U don’t work with reptile vets, or breeders and u don’t rescue like I do. So please refrain from suggesting 5.0 Reptisun they are worthless! Only the 10.0 T5!!
Actually, lights can go on at 2 p.m as long as they're on a 12-hour (or appropriate hours based on the season) cycle. I know of someone who turns on the lights at 2 a.m and off at 2 p.m and their beardie is thriving.
Also, Sadie gives informative, well-written, and helpful answers. They help people figure out what's wrong with their beardies without being condescending, rude, or diagnosing them without vet assistance.
 

Bostonfinest

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
212
Hi, First of all a Beardie needs lights on (Heat & UVB) for 10-12 hours in the winter & 12-14 hours during the Summer. At night they need pure dark (NO lights at all) only a ceramic heat emitter placed 2 inches to the left or right side of his body at night in the winter if his temp in tank drops below 70. You need a zoomed heat lamp for Heat & a Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB. This UVB long light is ordered on Amazon and should cover 70 percent of the length of the tank. A Beardie will get MBdisease and brittle/broken bones, unable to walk or eat and eventually die without UVB & this long Reptisun needs replacing every 6Mnths. He should be eating 3-4 times a day at his age of 3mnths. Crickets or dubia roaches only and lots of greens and veggies 2plates per day & place it on the cold side. Please Google the staple greens/veggies. Tyoically it’s mustard & collard greens, dandelions, endives, snap peas, green beans and butternut squash cut them to size for him and do a mixture of u dont train him now to eat veggies he will never do it. As a treat 1-2 times per week; blueberries, papaya or mangoes. Once a week u must also dust the crickets with herptivite powder and 4times a week once per day dust the crickets with RepCal it’s calcium powder & they need for their bones & the UVB helps them absorb it. Make sure the tank is minimum 40gallons; 36by18by18 or can be taller like 24inches high and at 10mnths old or so get him a 120 gallon or bigger as an adult so he can move, grow and not be stressed. NO mealworms or sand substrate it impacts them and destroys their digestive system. Baths twice a week in lukewarm Dechlorinated water for 15min minimum. U can buy Reptisafe which is a liquid that dechlorinates the water & u can play mediation music softly so they can relax while bathing & do not get water in his ears. Hope this helps; we rescue and rehome. Ty
They can also be fed silk worms and BSFL as well
 

Bostonfinest

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
212
55 gallon is way too small ans a 120 gallon tank is 6imches higher and one foot longer amd 6imches deeper. They need to run, move and exercise or they get stunted growth amd stresssed out. Let me guesss your Beardie stares at blank walls all day!! Mine look out the window amd watch tv!! They love mellow stuff like tv shows no violence. Let them enjoy amd live!! Stupid to say u can’t heat a 120 gallon dumbest thing I ever heard!! Buy a $12 zoomed CLEAR basking bulb for heat & the Reptisun 10.0 T5 for uvb and have diff levels of basking muse stuffed small stuffed animals from pets tires, get a hammock & high/low levels for basking!! Simple amd No sand they ingest it & it destroys their tummy. Mine eat crickets out of a huge ziplock bag shaken with some sprinkles of Repcap 3-4 times a week. That way no crickets hiding in the cage annoying my Beardie. Just think a bit!!! Also no lights ever at nite
That is not true enclosure size does not stunt the growth on bearded dragons, incorrect temperature, insufficient UVB does as well as parasites and the the amount of food and the size of the parents.
 

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