Plz help baby bearded dragon is not normal!

[Jesse omg it's me]

Okay I have had my baby beardie for about 3 to 4 weeks now i have fixed what ppl told me to fix which was lighting at the day it gets about 105f at day in the basking and at night about 70f light bulbs I use is 100w for day and 75w at night the night bulb gives no light but gives heat I have a 40 g breeder tank

Now my problem is my bearded dragon is about a inch and always lays there and that's bad for babies I read what can be causing that and it always sleep it doesn't eat as many crickets either and still refuse to eat veggies I put baby food on it also to get it to eat but never tried yet I mist it everyday and and every two to three days let it soak in warm water I saw one time it's poop was a runny to what am I doing wrong?!

 

[Germ]

You haven't posted the pictures as requested, since your past problem post & it seems like the problem has escalated. You have not told us what type & strength of UVB you are using. You continue to use a night light, any colored light, whether it be red, blue, black (Still emit light) can & will disturb most BD's sleep & this has been mentioned to you before & can cause the described symptoms. You can have all the right equipment, but if it is not setup properly your BD may not be receiving any of the benefits.

What do you mean by

Now my problem is my bearded dragon is about a inch

Until you provide us with pictures of your setup, all your setup specs, such as

• Type of Bearded Dragon (Normal, LeatherBack, SilkBack, Rankin, etc.)
• Age, Sex, Length:
• How long has it been in your care & in the enclosure it is presently in:
• Age, Brand, Type & Strength of the UVB Bulb, filtered/unfiltered (Screen) & distance from the Basking Spot:
• Type of Substrate:
• Type & Wattage of the Basking Bulb, filtered/unfiltered (Screen) & Distance from the basking spot:
• Accurate Temperature specifically at the Basking Spot & at the Coolest Area of the enclosure (Cool Side):
• Specific Staple Greens diet, types of live feeders & feeding schedules:
• Types of Supplementation (Calcium, Multi-Vitamins, Vit D3, etc.) and schedules:
• Are it’s Eyes Clear & Bright, Sunken, Swollen or it’s skin overly loose & wrinkly:
• Misting & Bath Frequency &/or Schedule:
• Bowel movement Frequency & Appearance (Solid, Runny, Normal, Ashy, abnormally ‘Stinky’),
• Size of Urate (% of White Part):
• Recent Medications or Treatments:
• Day/Night lighting schedule (On/Off times) and are they consistent:
• Ambient night room temps, is Night Heat/Light being used (if so, with what):
• Any recent changes in Diet, Setup, Treats, Room Arrangements, New Household Members or other Pets:
• Attached ‘Clear’ photos of the afflicted creature, enclosure and if relevant, the affected area & lighting, are also invaluable in pinpointing possible problems & reasons.

The easiest method, may be to copy & paste the questions into your post, then answer the individual questions, directly below each one.

Accurately answering these questions, to the best of your knowledge, will give members a good idea of the situation & setup, so helpful answers\recommendations or advice can be given.

Seeing that these symptoms have been going on for a couple of weeks, solution has not been found for whatever reasons, a visit to a Qualified Herp Vet may be, & likely is, in order.

Have you posted your setup pics on any other forums, if so, what advice were you given & what were the mentioned changes that you have made?

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

I tried posting picture and it won't allow me to chose the picture I want I will right after school

 

[Aleena]

I tried posting picture and it won't allow me to chose the picture I want I will right after school

Jesse, try posting using Photobucket.

 

[Germ]

This was provided to you in your other thread, that may help.

Picture Posting Tutorial

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

should I post a picture the night bulb to and my bearded dragon? and my bearded dragon is named theseus

 

[Germ]

Prop your thermometer at the top point of the log somehow & take your temps there, at the closest point that the BD has access to the heat bulb, after leaving it there for 30-45 minutes. It will be considerably warmer there than where the thermometer is sitting in the picture. The questions still need to be answered if you still want help. We can't help if we don't know the situation.

 

[Germ]

should I post a picture the night bulb to and my bearded dragon? and my bearded dragon is named theseus

yes

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

not sure on type of bearded dragon
age of theseus is a month and a half about i believe its a male to. lenght is 5"
been caring for theseus for about a month now.
uvb light bulb is about a month old brand is zilla and its a 50w bulb. it is unfiltered
substarte is a carpet
the basking bulb is exo terra thats a 100w unfiltered and is 6.5" above
tempature of basking area ia about 105-107 cool side is about
i feed it lettece strawberries with a little babyfood but it does not eat it. i fead it crickets with calcuim dust on it and eats about 2 to 4 which i dont think is healthy i fead it every morning
eyes are clear and good no loose skin.
bath it every 2-3 days mist it everyday.
poops daily looks like healthy poop black and a little white only had on runny poop after a bath.
idk what a urate is plz explane.
no medications
lighting for day is on 6am to 9pm night it 9:01pm to 5:59am
no new changes i made

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

sorri cool side temp didnt show up its 75f

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

do you think theseus might be shedding because i was reading and saw that when they shed they dont eat as much and mine has slow down eating or is it something serious?

 

[Germ]

You are there, you tell us if it is in shed, has it ever previously shed? If you get around to posting a good clear close up of Theseus, we may be able to tell, but it's color would be dulled\greyed just prior to shedding & yes quite often the appetite will diminish.

You must be using a Zilla Desert 50 which would not be a 50w bulb but that isn't an issue. In the pics of the lights & shadows, there appears to be a coarse screen between the bulb & the inside of the enclosure (A good thing), if there is, they would be considered filtered through the screen & is what the question was asking.

105F-107F, is that measured from where the thermometer is in the pic or the top point of the log as I previously suggested. Should be as close as possible to the vicinity of 110F.

Most Lettuces are not the best staple diet & fruit should be more of a treat than a main part of the regular diet. You should try it with other greens such as Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Turnip Greens, etc. Here is the link to a good nutrition list that is color coded to show what is good, not so good to feed & how often. 'Staple' means regular part of the diet. Clicking on this will take you to it Bearded Dragon Food Nutrition Chart The ones that are highlighted in Green are the better foods to feed & generally have a higher Calcium to Phosphorous Ratio.

If Theseus seems to enjoy the warm soaks, I would continue with the 2-3 times a week if you think it may be about to shed. Otherwise I would cut back to once or twice a week & continue with the once a day misting.

The 'Urate' is the white part of the poop. Seeing as how BDs don't actually take a 'Pee' like we do or how a dog or cat does, the white part of the Poop is how it eliminates the waste that our bodies do when we 'Pee'. The question is, approximately how much of it's poop is white, one quarter, one third, that type of thing.

15 hrs of 'Day' is too much. While 12-14 hrs of Daylight is the general recommendation, it has been my experience that using a lighting schedule of 12On\12Off to be the most beneficial to give a good balance of sleep & daylight. Do you usually find Theseus in the same spot in the morning, as it was in the night before when it went to sleep? Or does it move around at night? If it is difficult to keep this type of lighting schedule, because it doesn't match your schedule with school, then you could\should get an electronic timer to keep its lighting schedule consistent & also, then you don't have to get up so early on the days that you don't go to school just to turn on it's lights, or hurry home to turn them off on time if you are out, if you don't have one already. This brings us back to feeding. It sounds like you have to get up early to get to school, your BD does not have to get up that early just because you do. Set your timer from 9am-9pm if you have one. Try to keep it's On\Off times as regular as possible, the same time of the day, everyday. Quietly put some fresh Greens in it's enclosure without turning the lights on, before you leave for school, it may open it's eyes, but should go back to sleep if you don't disturb it by touching or picking it up. As soon as you get home from school, offer it some crickets &\or whatever other Live Prey you are feeding, freshen up the Greens. Offer more crickets a couple\few hours later, being sure that it is at least 2 hrs before lights out. Using this schedule will also possibly help in getting it to take more readily to it's greens.

Take your thermometer & set it somewhere in your room away from the enclosure at night. When\if you get up to go to the bathroom during the night, take a second to check the temp reading on the thermometer. Check it again as soon as you get up in the morning, at 6 AM it will be in the vicinity of the coldest it gets during the night in the room. If both times that you check it, the readings are not below 63F, DO NOT use any night heat or light at night. BDs should be allowed to cool down at night, slows their metabolism down for a good nights sleep. If it does drop below 63F either time you check it, then you should provide just enough heat to take the edge off. I recommend a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) over any kind of light & they look like this ...

Lights of any color, blue, black, red, infrared, any color will bother many BD's sleep and can cause the symptoms you have described about sleeping a lot during the day because it is not sleeping well at night. When it is sleeping during the day, what part of the enclosure is it in, is it on it's basking spot? the cool side? where?

You should try & bring the Cool Side Temps up 5F-10F. You could accomplish this possibly by moving everything, both light fixtures and the Basking Spot a few inches at a time towards the cool side until you get in the 80F-85F vicinity. It doesn't matter if your Basking spot winds up in the middle of the enclosure, if that was the case, both ends would likely be cool sides & that would be Okay. As long as the coolest floor area of the enclosure is in the vicinity of 80F-85F that is all that is required & works. Most of us have the basking spot at one end of the enclosure, but that is only because of many variables, type & strength of heat bulb, distance the basking spot is from the heat bulb, ambient room temperatures, screen density, etc, etc. That is where we need it to be in order to achieve the heat gradient for our setups. Each & every one is a little different.

Hope you can make some sense of all this, The areas hi-lited in Blue are the areas that I would like a response to, the rest is basically suggestions & info. I know it is a lengthy post, but just trying to help you understand some things & setup suggestions.

Have a good one.

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

okay thanks germ for all that you help me with i have been following what you told me to and fixed what you told me to fix. my bearded dragon has gotten a lot better and is more active!! also it has been eating more crickets then what it use to. i have seen tons of improvement in theseus so i wanted to say thanks and to all of the people too!! i have also gotten a better themometer thats digital and it says the baskirg gets up to at least 110 degrees fahrenheit. would you like to know anything more i can update you on?

 

[Germ]

Just that the Basking Spot & any place that it has access to, should not be much hotter than 110F, 115F Max.

Great to hear of the improvement in Theseus' appetite, activity & all round demeanor.

So glad that things are better & looking up.

Happy to have been able to help you & Theseus out & you are quite Welcome.

Keep us posted & let's see some pics of Theseus & it's home in the Pic & Vid section real soon.

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

Will do!!

 

[Em Lynch]

I see germ has offered a good reply here so i don't feel the need to offer much more advice but i would recommend an infrared thermometer for accurate temperatures if you are finding monitoring lots of temperatures both ambient and inside the enclosure difficult to do all at once. They look like guns you just have to point and shoot, i got mine on eBay and i don't think i would manage without it! just be careful not to shine it in your BD's eyes.

 

[Germ]

Temp guns are wonderful if you don't have to remove the screen & in doing so move the lighting, then you can not get an accurate measurement with a temp gun. I do have 2 of them & is what I use, but, as mentioned, my setups are, as your's is Em, not necessary to move the lights to get into, to take the temps. My infrareds are a little different style, smaller, but serve the same purpose.

In the instance of full screen tops with the lights sitting on top, Digital with a sensor is the way to go, in my opinion.