New to bearded dragon

[Ausbd]

This dexter

 

[Josh]

Welcome!

 

[Ausbd]

I have had Dexter for over a week now.

He has really settled in really well and is eating really well. He's is quite fat actually. He's eating veggies everyday and crickets every second day. I am spraying him with water every day. To my surprise he quite likes it. Lol

I have handled him a little. But when and how should I do this so he becomes tame and rely friendly?

Here are some pics.

 

[Aleena]

If you've had him for over a week you should be able to handle him, just start out slowly, and don't pick him up from above, he'll automatically become aggressive towards you if you do that since it's hard wired into their system to look for danger from above. You really don't need to mist him so much as long as you bathe him once or twice a week, and at least not in his enclosure as that will raise the humidity in the enclosure. Dexter is a good looking dragon, congrats!

 

[Germ]

At that age they should be eating Crix 2-3 times a day. During there growing, formative time, generally up to 15-18 months, they require much more Protien than Greens. This is a decent Ball Park feeding Schedule that is in the Care Guide that was previously provided.

Feeding/Supplements: Bearded dragons are omnivorous and must be fed a diet consisting of both vegetation and live prey. Vegetables and greens should be offered daily and a wide variety of acceptable veg/greens is the best approach. There are several websites available that provide very helpful suggestions and information on preferred veg/greens based on their acceptability and nutritional content. An excellent and non biased place to start for this information is Veronica Reilly’s "Nutrition Content” page Here.

Staple prey items generally consist of crickets & roaches. Silkworms & Phoenix worms are a good frequent feeder, while insects such as waxworms, butterworms, mealworms, and superworms are considered "occasional" feeders. “Dusting” with appropriate calcium and vitamin supplements is a necessity to maintain good health. Dusting is a process that refers to lightly coating greens or live prey with supplements to ensure all of the additional requirements for proper growth and development are met. It is simplest to sprinkle the supplements into a plastic freezer bag that contains the prey and gently shaking until coated. Only dust live prey or greens, depending on the age of the dragon, but it is not necessary to dust both. Live prey should be “gut loaded” prior to feeding, this means your feeders are fed properly to ensure they have an acceptable nutritional value for your dragon. Live prey should be offered in a size that is relative to your dragon. A common suggestion is that prey should be no bigger than the space between your dragon’s eyes.

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General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: Five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: Five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

Your BD needs much more protein than you are providing.

 

[Ausbd]

Thanks

The owner of the reptile store told me to only feed him crickets every second day. It doesn't bother me either way. The main thing is that dexter is getting everything that is required. How many crickets would you feed him in a day?

 

[Germ]

What you were told by the store keeper applies to an adult BD. Youngsters require a much higher protein diet to enable them to grow & fill out.

A good rule of thumb is, as many crix as it will eat in a 10-15 minute period a couple times a day, after you do that for a few days to a week, watching the time & keeping track of how many were fed, you will then know how many a day & can split it up evenly between the 2 daily feedings. I always limited mine to 30-35 (Some are known to easily eat 50+/day) appropriately sized crix a day, if they wanted that many, appetites vary, some will want more than others. Just like anything else they will have their off days & not eat as much, if they are quite active, then more. We have to learn to read our particular Dragons. A constant supply of fresh greens should also be provided daily. Once it grows up to be an adult & it's body has basically stopped growing, then the feeding of live prey should be reduced to every 2-3 days. Be sure to dust all feeders.

 

[Jesse omg it's me]

some can eat 50+ wow thats crazy did not know thats all!! but yeah germ covered it!

 

[Ausbd]

I have now started dexter back on crickets everyday. He doesn't say no to them that's for sure. I measured him today and he is approx 10.5 inches long. He seemed a little upset after I handled him today. I picked him up for a short time as I'm trying to get him used to me. After I put him down he was ok but then later noticed he was just laying under cover until lights went out. First time he has done this. Don't want to stress him but do want to tame him. How did. You guys go with taming your beardie?
Thanks for help guys.

 

[ThDude]

taming takes time, right now i take mine out for a total of maybe 30 miniutes a week so i dont over stress him.

also you dont want to have him out all the time as they need the lighting and set up of the home we have worked on so hard for them.

being around him while he eats will make him think you are a food suplyer and a good thing for himself.

take it slow.

 

[Ausbd]

Thanks