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Need guidance for my sick Maximus

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Hi all,

I have rescued Maximus from a reptile zoo back in February. He is an old guy with a limp on his back leg and missing toes on his back foot. I took him home and put him in a 40 gallon tank. One side has UV lamp and heating lamp the other side doesn't have any lamp so when he gets too hot he usually goes on the shade side. Temperature in the tank under the lamp is about 30/33C humidity 34/38. During the night I keep all the lamps off and his tank temperature go down to 26/27C. I live in SoCal weather is always nice here so I also take him outside and let him bask in the sun almost every day. A month after I got him he started having foul diarrhea so I got him a fecal test and it turned out he has pinworm and coccidia. I gave him Panecur for 14 day and Liquid Toltrazuril Coccidiocide 5% × 1 for two days as prescribe. I don't know if he is cleared of everything now but his poop looks much better. Unfortunately I don't have money at the moment for an herpetologist visit or for a fecal receck. Eating wise, there was one week I remember before the diarrhea that he was eating every day just fine then he stopped. Now he has been become a picky eater. He doesn't eat veggies, only cabbage then he stopped with that too. He likes mealworms, superworms but then he stops eating that too. Lately he only eats dandaleons flowers. He loves those. I supplement him with Repashy super food and baby food (squash, sweet potatoes). I force feed him with a syringe otherwise he will not eat it. I also give him a warm bath twice a week. I honestly don't know if I am doing soemthing wrong, or if he has something wrong or he it's all normal. I had reptiles in the past, years ago, but never a Bearde Dragon. So I am new at this and I am trying my best. Anybody out there with the same problem? Thank you for reading.
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Hi all,

I have rescued Maximus from a reptile zoo back in February. He is an old guy with a limp on his back leg and missing toes on his back foot. I took him home and put him in a 40 gallon tank. One side has UV lamp and heating lamp the other side doesn't have any lamp so when he gets too hot he usually goes on the shade side. Temperature in the tank under the lamp is about 30/33C humidity 34/38. During the night I keep all the lamps off and his tank temperature go down to 26/27C. I live in SoCal weather is always nice here so I also take him outside and let him bask in the sun almost every day. A month after I got him he started having foul diarrhea so I got him a fecal test and it turned out he has pinworm and coccidia. I gave him Panecur for 14 day and Liquid Toltrazuril Coccidiocide 5% × 1 for two days as prescribe. I don't know if he is cleared of everything now but his poop looks much better. Unfortunately I don't have money at the moment for an herpetologist visit or for a fecal receck. Eating wise, there was one week I remember before the diarrhea that he was eating every day just fine then he stopped. Now he has been become a picky eater. He doesn't eat veggies, only cabbage then he stopped with that too. He likes mealworms, superworms but then he stops eating that too. Lately he only eats dandaleons flowers. He loves those. I supplement him with Repashy super food and baby food (squash, sweet potatoes). I force feed him with a syringe otherwise he will not eat it. I also give him a warm bath twice a week. I honestly don't know if I am doing soemthing wrong, or if he has something wrong or he it's all normal. I had reptiles in the past, years ago, but never a Bearde Dragon. So I am new at this and I am trying my best. Anybody out there with the same problem? Thank you for reading.
Welcome to the forum------ please NO more cabbage - the dandelions are a good staple I am going to post a nutrition website ignore the kale info its outdated and a good staple- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html --- its great your getting him out side for some natural UVB --- what kind of UVB are you using for him brand and bulb please-please NO coils for UVB they are inadequate --- how are you getting your surface basking temps? Digital probe thermometers are the most accurate - those temps should be 95-100 F for surface and night time temps should be 65-75 F -- cool and dark-- your temps and the UVB are critical for them to keep eating and the overall health-- he needs a staple insect like dubia roaches crickets BSFL or silkworms- if you need websites for any of this please ask
 

Josh

Administrator
Staff member
3 Year Member
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Location
Redlands, CA
Hey welcome to the forum! Thanks for joining.
30-33C is too cold. Can you boost his temps up a little bit?
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Welcome to the forum------ please NO more cabbage - the dandelions are a good staple I am going to post a nutrition website ignore the kale info its outdated and a good staple- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html --- its great your getting him out side for some natural UVB --- what kind of UVB are you using for him brand and bulb please-please NO coils for UVB they are inadequate --- how are you getting your surface basking temps? Digital probe thermometers are the most accurate - those temps should be 95-100 F for surface and night time temps should be 65-75 F -- cool and dark-- your temps and the UVB are critical for them to keep eating and the overall health-- he needs a staple insect like dubia roaches crickets BSFL or silkworms- if you need websites for any of this please ask
Hi Sadie! thank you so much for your reply.
I have Repty basking spot lamp, no coil, and the UVB

Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO High Output Reptile Terrarium Hood.​

For the temperature I bought a digital square termometer, you can see it in the picture. His temperature is like you mentioned, for the day and for the night, plus of mines, depending how hot or cooler it is outside. And for the cabbage he's not eating it anymore so I am just lost. I am happy that he's eating a couple of flower a day, but he is losing weight and that concerns me. Unless this si something BD do. Like not eating for a few weeks than go back on track food wise. My Iguanas and my geckos were such voracious eater. Maximus is completely different. Different continent fir sure. I never tried the dubia roaches but I will go and buy some at this point. Thank you for the link too.
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Hi Sadie! thank you so much for your reply.
I have Repty basking spot lamp, no coil, and the UVB

Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO High Output Reptile Terrarium Hood.​

For the temperature I bought a digital square termometer, you can see it in the picture. His temperature is like you mentioned, for the day and for the night, plus of mines, depending how hot or cooler it is outside. And for the cabbage he's not eating it anymore so I am just lost. I am happy that he's eating a couple of flower a day, but he is losing weight and that concerns me. Unless this si something BD do. Like not eating for a few weeks than go back on track food wise. My Iguanas and my geckos were such voracious eater. Maximus is completely different. Different continent fir sure. I never tried the dubia roaches but I will go and buy some at this point. Thank you for the link too.
He should not be losing weight -- we need to figure out why hes not eating- how old is the UVB? The bulb should not be over 11 months old Next a piece of decor needs to be directly under the UVB approx 8-10 inches for the wide hole screen- to be honest I would get the UVB unobstructed No screen place the UVB fixture width wise if you haft to so the screen is pulled back and its sitting on top w/ a distance of 12-15 inches and I would do 13 inches --- you want a digital probe for the thermometer the one you have is giving you ambient temps -- we need this stuff I have posted on par or he will not eat --- w/ you taking him outside for UVB I am a little shocked that he isnt eating- if what I have suggested does not do the trick then we need to try other avenues -- you may need to get him into the vet but lets try this first -- incorrect surface basking temps will cause him not to eat -- I can post a website to find a reptile vet in your area if you would like it
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
He should not be losing weight -- we need to figure out why hes not eating- how old is the UVB? The bulb should not be over 11 months old Next a piece of decor needs to be directly under the UVB approx 8-10 inches for the wide hole screen- to be honest I would get the UVB unobstructed No screen place the UVB fixture width wise if you haft to so the screen is pulled back and its sitting on top w/ a distance of 12-15 inches and I would do 13 inches --- you want a digital probe for the thermometer the one you have is giving you ambient temps -- we need this stuff I have posted on par or he will not eat --- w/ you taking him outside for UVB I am a little shocked that he isnt eating- if what I have suggested does not do the trick then we need to try other avenues -- you may need to get him into the vet but lets try this first -- incorrect surface basking temps will cause him not to eat -- I can post a website to find a reptile vet in your area if you would like it
Everything I bought was in February and it is brand new. I had a piece of wood, the half dome one, that allowed him to be more up close to the lamp, but I removed it when i started with treatment for the worms. I will put it back. I also had the red light but it burned after a couple of weeks so I replaced it wirh the white one I mentioned in my text before. Do you think I should put back the red light? I truly appreciate all your help
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Everything I bought was in February and it is brand new. I had a piece of wood, the half dome one, that allowed him to be more up close to the lamp, but I removed it when i started with treatment for the worms. I will put it back. I also had the red light but it burned after a couple of weeks so I replaced it wirh the white one I mentioned in my text before. Do you think I should put back the red light? I truly appreciate all your help
Please no colored bulbs AT ALL!! They disrupt sleep and cause long term eye damage- dragons have a third eye on top of their heads for predators and it will cause all kinds of damage to that eye!! A clear solid bright white basking bulb is needed for heating and UVA-- you want to mimic the sun as much as possible -- so that means NO colored No off white NO Daytime bulbs there is a coating on them that hurts the eyes and NO yellowish bulbs -- good basking bulbs are examples Flukers basking Exo Terra Intense and Arcadia Halogen - How long has the red light been gone and how long did you use it for? this would be another cause for the dragon to have quit eating-- lets work on the husbandry and go from there
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Interesting Max had the red light on for just a couple of weeks it was exo terra one and recommended by the reptile shop. I feel comfortable to know he doesn’t need it
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Interesting Max had the red light on for just a couple of weeks it was exo terra one and recommended by the reptile shop. I feel comfortable to know he doesn’t need it
Reptile shops often give bad advice and sometimes it kills the dragon if not corrected soon enough- in the wild dragons do not have colored bulbs -
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Please no colored bulbs AT ALL!! They disrupt sleep and cause long term eye damage- dragons have a third eye on top of their heads for predators and it will cause all kinds of damage to that eye!! A clear solid bright white basking bulb is needed for heating and UVA-- you want to mimic the sun as much as possible -- so that means NO colored No off white NO Daytime bulbs there is a coating on them that hurts the eyes and NO yellowish bulbs -- good basking bulbs are examples Flukers basking Exo Terra Intense and Arcadia Halogen - How long has the red light been gone and how long did you use it for? this would be another cause for the dragon to have quit eating-- lets work on the husbandry and go from there
Hi Sadie, the red light was an infrared basking spot light from exo terra, and it last about 2 weeks then it was out. I never let this light on at night as I turn everything off at night because i don't want to disrupt his sleep cycle. I substitute the red light with a white basking light. I will take a picture of the box today so you'll know which one I used and I am using now. I had a feeling that he's not happy in his tank. I might place his tank in my sun room facing the backyard so he will be able to see the outdoor through the window and get some kind of distraction. Maybe that will get his apetite back. I wish I ould give him a companion but I know it is not reccommended.
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Reptile shops often give bad advice and sometimes it kills the dragon if not corrected soon enough- in the wild dragons do not have colored bulbs -
I know! This particular shop is terrible in every possible way and the staff have no clue whatsoever on how to keep reptiles. They told me to keep the light on all the time even at night. I said no because they are desert creatures and temperatures in Australia in the desert drop dramatically. I know because I have been there, in the desert! They looked at me with a stare like I was an alien or something. That's why I had to safe Maximus, he would have certainly died there. He was an owner surrenderhas been there for 5 months at that point in a small tank with nothing in it and one light that fit a row of other reptiles lined up in other small tanks. He had a black beard every time i went to see him. Max was truly stressed, and probably already sick.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
I know! This particular shop is terrible in every possible way and the staff have no clue whatsoever on how to keep reptiles. They told me to keep the light on all the time even at night. I said no because they are desert creatures and temperatures in Australia in the desert drop dramatically. I know because I have been there, in the desert! They looked at me with a stare like I was an alien or something. That's why I had to safe Maximus, he would have certainly died there. He was an owner surrenderhas been there for 5 months at that point in a small tank with nothing in it and one light that fit a row of other reptiles lined up in other small tanks. He had a black beard every time i went to see him. Max was truly stressed, and probably already sick.
I agree its good you came when you did --- now is the time to get that tank up to par for him
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Sorry, what do you mean the tank as I posted?
Make the adjustments w/ the UVB placement -- get a digital probe thermometer and increase the surface basking temps
This is what I posted for you in a earlier post
He should not be losing weight -- we need to figure out why hes not eating- how old is the UVB? The bulb should not be over 11 months old Next a piece of decor needs to be directly under the UVB approx 8-10 inches for the wide hole screen- to be honest I would get the UVB unobstructed No screen place the UVB fixture width wise if you haft to so the screen is pulled back and its sitting on top w/ a distance of 12-15 inches and I would do 13 inches --- you want a digital probe for the thermometer the one you have is giving you ambient temps -- we need this stuff I have posted on par or he will not eat --- w/ you taking him outside for UVB I am a little shocked that he isnt eating- if what I have suggested does not do the trick then we need to try other avenues -- you may need to get him into the vet but lets try this first -- incorrect surface basking temps will cause him not to eat -- I can post a website to find a reptile vet in your area if you would like it
 

Maximus2024

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
14
Make the adjustments w/ the UVB placement -- get a digital probe thermometer and increase the surface basking temps
This is what I posted for you in a earlier post
He should not be losing weight -- we need to figure out why hes not eating- how old is the UVB? The bulb should not be over 11 months old Next a piece of decor needs to be directly under the UVB approx 8-10 inches for the wide hole screen- to be honest I would get the UVB unobstructed No screen place the UVB fixture width wise if you haft to so the screen is pulled back and its sitting on top w/ a distance of 12-15 inches and I would do 13 inches --- you want a digital probe for the thermometer the one you have is giving you ambient temps -- we need this stuff I have posted on par or he will not eat --- w/ you taking him outside for UVB I am a little shocked that he isnt eating- if what I have suggested does not do the trick then we need to try other avenues -- you may need to get him into the vet but lets try this first -- incorrect surface basking temps will cause him not to eat -- I can post a website to find a reptile vet in your area if you would like it
Thank you again. Yes if you an send me a list ofherpetologist veterinarian in my area would be great. I know one but the do lizards and exotics but they are not herpetologists. (All creature cottage care in cota mesa).
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,878
Thank you again. Yes if you an send me a list ofherpetologist veterinarian in my area would be great. I know one but the do lizards and exotics but they are not herpetologists. (All creature cottage care in cota mesa).
I would get your tank up to par before taking the dragon in -- if he continues to lose weight there is another issue at hand --- DO NOT have them do a enema for a fecal - I would take one w/ you
www.arav.org if your in a small town/ area type in a bigger cities zip code closest to you
 

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