Hi from Texas

[stumpy]

Hello all I got my new little baby last Tuesday and love her. She is so cute and fun
She is in a 40g tank and has a repsun 10.0 UVA light. And some items to climb on and bask and chill on in the cool side.
I haven't been able to get here to eat her veggies yet just feeders

I have been reading around all over here and the net, I just saw something on somones into thread that made me worried
I have been dusting the feeders in fluker calcium with vitam d3. Now in that thread it says to only use the d3 ones in a blue moon. Now on the container it say for daily use. But then in another spot it says if there under a intense UVB light then this should only be uses some times.

So I'm worried I mite be hurting my new baby. Is the v3 ok? Or do I need to stop it and go get new feeders.

Here's some picks

 

[gilliesexotics]

Hi, welcome to the forums. Great looking little dragon you have

 

[stumpy]

Ty she is so much fun. I have had lots of different pets beside the normal dog cats. But the is the first reptile I felt had emotions and likes me lol. She just lights up went I wake up or get home

 

[stumpy]

I got help on the d3 thing. I need to do something different

 

[Germ]

A really decent schedule for an example, that may help.

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

Read More: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/

Or do I need to stop it and go get new feeders.

This has me confused, the feeders should be dusted immediately just prior to feeding. Why would you have to go get different feeders, the ones in your 'Keeper' or container should be fine ...

A few good links to help get you started ...

Basic BD Care Sheet - A Place To Start

Bearded Dragon --- Exclusive Care Info Library

Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart

Is Bearded Dragon Co-habitation a good plan?

How to sex a Bearded Dragon
How To Sex A Bearded Dragon

Including pics of your setup showing your lighting orientation in relation to the rest of the enclosure, would help members answer some of you questions more accurately.

 

[Pat B]

Good morning and Welcome to BDF!! Your little girl is so tiny. She will grow like a weed!! Enjoy her!!

 

[stumpy]

Hello y'all Ty for the welcomes and the info. I will get some picks when I get home

 

[alexonti]

Welcome and hi from Texas too!!

 

[stumpy]

Welcome and hi from Texas too!!

Hi what part?

 

[stumpy]

Here's her home

 

[alexonti]

McAllen

 

[sean8172]

View attachment 4979
Here's her home

That looks pretty good. I would say take those analog thermometers out (they are grossly inaccurate), and purchase digital probe style thermometers. These can be found in most pet stores for less than $15. If you can't find one in the reptile section, look in aquatics, as they are the same thing, just "branded" differently. Also, if your new baby is having ANY trouble finding food, you might want to think about getting a separator for that tank, until he/she gets bigger. That's a mighty big enclosure for such a tiny beardie. Placing aluminum foil around the uvb bulb will help direct the light where it needs to be. Also, it looks like you have two dishes. If one of those is a water dish, I would suggest removing it, immediately. Bearded dragons rarely drink stabbing standing water, and it can raise humidity to dangerous levels. If the larger dish (on the right side) is a food dish, you should move it to the other side, as their food source should always be on the cool side. If that's the water dish, just take it out.

This is more my opinion than helpful advice, but I would say a smaller "stick" or "log" to reach the hammock, I'm assuming is the basking site, might not be a bad idea. Floor space is much more important than things to climb. While these little guys are often found on perches in the wild, they are actually more "ground dwellers". Again, that's just opinion.

The placement of the hot side thermometer is way off. It should be at the hottest spot. In your case, that's probably on the hammock. I'd you move it there, I'm sure you'll find it's much hotter than where it's measuring now (again, it will most likely be grossly inaccurate anyway).

I would strongly suggest reading through everything Germ posted, as well as all the links he provided. Those are all a great starting point for any new BD owner.

Oh...welcome to Bearded Dragon Forum!

 

[stumpy]

Cool I'm from Lubbock but now live by San Angelo

 

[stumpy]

Ty for the advise. Those r the crappy ones that came in the kit. I plan to get dig ones after I get paid. They fall off so I just slap em back on.
I have been reading like non stop on theses guys and there's a lot to prosses but I am constantly making changes. Like I dropped the coil uv light the day after I got her for the 18" repsun tub. I moved out the water dish after the pick. It's hard to tell in the pick cas I used the crap cam on my phone for quick pick but the log sits 1" above the highest spot on the hamic. The hamic is at a angle to where the bottom almost touches the ground. So she can get up or off from ground or log.

I leaned though trial and erro about best way to feed her the crickets like for now I take out the stick and tree and block off half of the tank and Hurd the buggers towards her and she snatches em up lol

The food dish is the small red one. Wen I leave for work I put a lil veggie in there or I put some tinny soft pellets so she has snacks while I'm gone

I will take any and all advise. I want her to be a happy and healthy girl

 

[Germ]

I concur with Sean8172, those stick on thermometers are not suited to this application. They provide you with the temp of the glass which is affected by the outside ambient room temps as much as the inside environment, giving you inaccurate temp readings & measured no where near where they should be measured from. Your BD will never be half way up the back wall. Basking temps need to be measured directly at the basking spot, which should be the hottest point in the enclosure.

From the picture, the hottest point in that enclosure would likely be the the branch area that is showing white from the light & that is where the temp should be measured from. That point would be intensely hotter than than where the thermometer is mounted, below the basking spot & 8"-10" off to the side of the center of the heat bulb. Even if the thermometer, where it is mounted now, is giving accurate temps & reading in the vicinity of 110F like it should be, that enclosure's actual hottest\basking area is likely to be much too hot.

I would also recommend moving either the basking area or the UVB fixture so that the basking spot is covered by the bulk center portions of the tube where the UVB strength is the strongest. There is very little effective, useable UVB emitted off of the end portions of the tube. Also wouldn't hurt to have it higher so it shines from above, directly on to the basking spot, as the sun would.

Example of a Basic Setup: Showing the recommended Basic requirements, proper Temperatures & the points at which they should be measured from, in Red & the optional choices that are actually used in this particular example enclosure, in Black.

Read More:http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/

In case you happen to be contemplating getting an infrared Temp Gun to replace the analog ones, please see this link ... Infrared Thermometers - Temp Guns. Digital Thermometers with a sensor\probe, that can be attached directly to the basking spot, is what is needed for an enclosure with a full screen top with the heat fixture on top, similar to the example below.

I have never found the need to partition off a larger enclosure for a young BD, if the enclosure is not cluttered with unnecessary 'Fluff' furnishings providing hiding spots for feeders & making the 'Hunt' difficult. Mine have all been raised in 90+ gal enclosures, with 6+ square feet of floor area, right from the start. The K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid) method of husbandry, is always the best for ANY age BD.

Good Luck

 

[stumpy]

I just ordered a digital one with a prob for the basking spot. I will probably be moving around the lights and stuff for better basking soon. She is starting to settle in so I'd like to wait a lol bit before I change it up so I don't stress her to much. There so much newness for her

Ty for the help .

 

[stumpy]

Oo question. I took out the water bowl yesterday and made sure the carpet was dry on top and bottom but the crappy sticky gauge stays says 50% humity. Is it because its been raining a lot here and super hot ?

 

[sean8172]

Raised humidity outside can surely raise the humidity inside, as well as inside the enclosure. While your Hygrometer may be inaccurate, it's been my experience that they aren't as wildly off as analog thermometers. The thermometers are off because they measure the surface on which they are attached. I'm not quite sure how to lower humidity, other than a dehumidifier. Raising the overall heat in the enclosure may help. I'm sure once Germ sees this, he'll have dune advice. That guy is like a beardie guru.

 

[Germ]

If your climate is naturally High in humidity & it sounds like it is because of rain & heat, there is not much you can do about it, other than use a dehumidifier & keep all windows closed. AC will also help reduce humidity levels in the house with all windows closed. I live in a high humidity climate (30%-70% depending on the Season & Weather), will not keep my windows closed, do not use a dehumidifier, rarely use our crappy AC & my BDs have adapted very well for over a decade. I do not recommend raising the heat higher than recommended to try to lower the humidity.

Having proper temps & UVB is much more important than worrying about causing a little stress rearranging things to properly provide it.

 

[stumpy]

It sounds like I need a better meter for it too now that I ordered a dig thermometer