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First timer baby bearded owner. Please help.

Kayumbo115

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
27
View attachment 26078
Another question I apologize I’m just reading different articles and it’s just creating more questions. For night time I read it should be in complete darkness but it does still need some heat so I went to pet smart and this is what they recommended. I also read that the colors can be harmful. Should I continue using this or toss it aside. I also bought a ceramic heat emitter because for some reason the temperature is still not reaching between 110-115. What are your thoughts on the ceramic heat emitter. Or why isn’t the temperature reaching up to 110-115. I also got a 100W light bulb and still not good. I was told by an employee from petsmart to pair the 100w light bulb with the ceramic heat emitter and that should be perfect instead of getting the 150w light bulb. Can you also tell me your thoughts on that.
Just to be clear, you're aiming for the temp under the basking lamp to be 110ish correct? Not the whole enclosure.
The enclosure should be at least 85 for a baby, with 110-115 under the heat lamp.
 

Frank the baby beardry

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
553
Location
To bad
Just to be clear, you're aiming for the temp under the basking lamp to be 110ish correct? Not the whole enclosure.
The enclosure should be at least 85 for a baby, with 110-115 under the heat lamp.
Yes the coldest it should get in a baby enclosure is 80 on the far far cool side and ya 110-115 under the basking spot
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,849
Yes the coldest it should get in a baby enclosure is 80 on the far far cool side and ya 110-115 under the basking spot
Please nothing over 110-- you want 3 temps in tank 80's cool side - 90's mid tank--- 105-110 basking--- temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer
 

dhudson

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
1
Hi,
I am very new to this I just bought my first baby bearded dragon yesterday and I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. I bought the Zoomed Reptihabitat 20 gallon and the enclosure came with multiple items. However, I am mostly worried about the lighting and the heat. I am using the UVB and heating light that it came with, but the temperatures are still not where they should be. The temperature is staying at 86 degrees but won’t reach up to 110-120. So I was wondering doesn anyone have any recommendations for additional heat or just different lighting I can use to reach the right temperature.
One other question I have is about there poop this is my first time with one and I just want to make sure everything is ok. We did feed him meal worms last night and I woke up to some things in the baby bearded dragons enclosure. So please help me out here sorry if it’s gross.
Thank you so much any tips and advice will be greatly appreciated. I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos to try and educate myself but there’s just never too much information.
You're going to need a bigger boat and fast. I've only had my Ami for about 8 months but learned a lot very quickly. First, you're going to get a larger good quality tank asap.I started with a Thrive all included tank but upgraded to one from Carolina Custom Cages. A bit pricey, but you can purchase a light fixture designed fo the cage the perfect combination of UVA and UVB. Until then, you may have to play around with different bulbs. I had to use a 100W with my thrive.

Re the poop, if those little things are sort of brown and white, you're all good.
 

2Pacalypse

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
153
Ok first thing the 20 gallon wont last long so I am going to suggest you invest in this now --- the basking temps and the UVB are the TWO MOST IMPORTANT things in that tank they control the health and overall behavior of your dragon so we are going to start there ---- first thing you need to get is a digital probe thermometer NO stickons they are inaccurate- take the probe set it where the dragon sits for basking and wait 10 minutes get temp it should be 105-110 NO hotter --- then I want you to get rid of the coil UVB I am assuming that came w/ the tank -- invest in this a 24" long tube fixture like a Zoo Med it will come w/a 5.0 bulb I want you to use that for the 20 gallon tank and when you upgrade your tank I want you to get this bulb 22" https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-10.0-uvb-t5.html you will need that for the bigger tank------------ Please get rid of the sand if thats whats in there and use paper towels for now --- do not use the food feed it to the crickets -- PLEASE NO MORE MEAL WORMS babies stomachs are to sensitive for meal worms --- he needs crickets or dubia roaches -- I would get some BSFL and add them to the tops of the salads -- he needs fresh salads every day his main diet is insects but he still needs the veggies as well --your dragon will go thru relocation stress so his eating will be off but w/ out the proper basking temps and UVB he will quit eating all together --- he needs the insects dusted w/ calcium D 3 5 x per week once per feeding lightly coated -- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week once per feeding --- here is a website for nutrition and insect w/ worms websites
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
www.dubiaroaches.com small super worms if they have them they are great for roaches and small horn worms feed only order a small amount they grow really fast and this place order the medium they usually come real small and feed every day like 1 or so they do get big fast --- feed small super worms on the salad 1-3 you dont want him hooked on worms
www.symtonbsf.com do not dust them they are a great staple feeder for babies order large - they have super worms but they do not come in containers an you will need a cup w/ a lid w/ holes and food like regular oatmeal w/ carrots for hydration
www.reptilianarts.com this place has silk worms you need to get small ones the bulk come small you would need food - this place has super worms as well
when you get the UVB please let me know I will help you set it up on that 20 gallon tank these bulbs have different placement and distance req
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Hi,
I am very new to this I just bought my first baby bearded dragon yesterday and I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. I bought the Zoomed Reptihabitat 20 gallon and the enclosure came with multiple items. However, I am mostly worried about the lighting and the heat. I am using the UVB and heating light that it came with, but the temperatures are still not where they should be. The temperature is staying at 86 degrees but won’t reach up to 110-120. So I was wondering doesn anyone have any recommendations for additional heat or just different lighting I can use to reach the right temperature.
One other question I have is about there poop this is my first time with one and I just want to make sure everything is ok. We did feed him meal worms last night and I woke up to some things in the baby bearded dragons enclosure. So please help me out here sorry if it’s gross.
Thank you so much any tips and advice will be greatly appreciated. I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos to try and educate myself but there’s just never too much information.
Hi; 1st of all DONOT use the lighting that the cage came with if they are colored or coiled bulbs or temp gauges that are not digital. U need the zoomed 75watt heat lamp or 50watt for Heat . Buy both to try coz u can return them at anytime. And u need The Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB this long light needs to cover 70percent of the cage. U can order on Amazon or specialty pet stores. NOTE: if I don’t provide the proper UVb & heat he can’t eat or digest the food or absorb vitamin D from the UVb & without this hos homes will become brittle, unable to wall to move eventually MBD and death.
Also the cage is empty u need a hammock next to the basking spot & a hideaway; so he can get away from UVb as needed. U can place a soft cloth above the hammock & under the hammock a soft fleece blanket to lay on like his bed and getaway & on the cold side a water dish and his veggie/green dish. Temp should be 105-110 as a baby after 4mnths or so more likely 100-105 amd as he gets older 95-100 only. Buy a digital thermometer by zoomed it’s $10 and placethe probe on his basking spot. He needs lots of protein crickets and Dubia roaches only!! DONOT ever feed meal worms or bottled food it destroys their tummy & impacts them. Only feed after an hour or so of basking u cannot feed a Beardie unless he’s warm/at proper temp & the last feeding light ya on for 2hours; it takes 2hoits to digest their food inder the heat/UVb. So keep this in mind. Crickets; he needs to be fed 4-5 times a day like 20-30 Crickets per feeding &/or Dubia roaches dusted in calcium powder (Repcal) once per day 4times a week and once per day on a non calcium day u sprinkle herptivite it’s a vitamin. u need to feed him till he stops eating, he needs lots of petitions and always a plate of greens and veggies everyday if u don’t do this he will never eat them when he’s older. The best everyday ones are: mustard greens, dandelions, collard greens, yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans and snap peas, also endives. Fruits as treats 2-3 times a week blueberries and papayas. Do 2-3 of each & dice them up small so he can eat.
as he turns 4motnhs old u can feed 3-4times/day the crickets maybe move to medium size and 6Mnths and older 3times per day(larges)and after a year old feed 15-20 large crickets per day and always the plate of greens/veggies I do 2fresh ones per day. After “1” years old u can introduce super worms and hornworms as treats they are soo good for them but high in fat. At nite u need a ceramic heat emitter which produces heat and no light. Use this in the winter as a baby coz temp should be around 75 at nite & when he gets older it can drop to 70. At nite they like pure dark & quiet. Also turn the tv on for them to watch soft mellow shoes like friends and I love Raymond. Take him pit for 30min or so to play and exercise monitored of course. And after 3mnths get a 40gallon tank from Petsmart with the doors that open in the front and u will get a 100Watt zoomed heat lamp. If u confine them in a small cage they will be very stressed and won’t grow to proper length. His poop: get a stool sample at a local reptile vet; he mite have Coccidia!! His poop should be white and solid dark brown & oval/firm like a cats poop. If it’s runny & smelly them it’s Coccidia which is ike lice u need to burn his cage in hot water & all times in it and don’t let him out till u get the antibiotics to kill it from a vet. Most pet stores sell with this disease due to dirty cages and poop licking. Keep the cage super duper clean I use white terry cloth towels as a substrate. Baths twice a week in lukewarm means a sliver above cold in dechlorinated after for 15min minimum twice per week. Buy Reptisafe if u dotm have a water filter system at home. Attached is a pic; u can get them little pillows too they love to be proped up. See how he has the basking in the front and hammock in the back & the long UVb goes in the back. Good luck
 

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Ayee

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
24
Hi; 1st of all DONOT use the lighting that the cage came with if they are colored or coiled bulbs or temp gauges that are not digital. U need the zoomed 75watt heat lamp or 50watt for Heat . Buy both to try coz u can return them at anytime. And u need The Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB this long light needs to cover 70percent of the cage. U can order on Amazon or specialty pet stores. NOTE: if I don’t provide the proper UVb & heat he can’t eat or digest the food or absorb vitamin D from the UVb & without this hos homes will become brittle, unable to wall to move eventually MBD and death.
Also the cage is empty u need a hammock next to the basking spot & a hideaway; so he can get away from UVb as needed. U can place a soft cloth above the hammock & under the hammock a soft fleece blanket to lay on like his bed and getaway & on the cold side a water dish and his veggie/green dish. Temp should be 105-110 as a baby after 4mnths or so more likely 100-105 amd as he gets older 95-100 only. Buy a digital thermometer by zoomed it’s $10 and placethe probe on his basking spot. He needs lots of protein crickets and Dubia roaches only!! DONOT ever feed meal worms or bottled food it destroys their tummy & impacts them. Only feed after an hour or so of basking u cannot feed a Beardie unless he’s warm/at proper temp & the last feeding light ya on for 2hours; it takes 2hoits to digest their food inder the heat/UVb. So keep this in mind. Crickets; he needs to be fed 4-5 times a day like 20-30 Crickets per feeding &/or Dubia roaches dusted in calcium powder (Repcal) once per day 4times a week and once per day on a non calcium day u sprinkle herptivite it’s a vitamin. u need to feed him till he stops eating, he needs lots of petitions and always a plate of greens and veggies everyday if u don’t do this he will never eat them when he’s older. The best everyday ones are: mustard greens, dandelions, collard greens, yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans and snap peas, also endives. Fruits as treats 2-3 times a week blueberries and papayas. Do 2-3 of each & dice them up small so he can eat.
as he turns 4motnhs old u can feed 3-4times/day the crickets maybe move to medium size and 6Mnths and older 3times per day(larges)and after a year old feed 15-20 large crickets per day and always the plate of greens/veggies I do 2fresh ones per day. After “1” years old u can introduce super worms and hornworms as treats they are soo good for them but high in fat. At nite u need a ceramic heat emitter which produces heat and no light. Use this in the winter as a baby coz temp should be around 75 at nite & when he gets older it can drop to 70. At nite they like pure dark & quiet. Also turn the tv on for them to watch soft mellow shoes like friends and I love Raymond. Take him pit for 30min or so to play and exercise monitored of course. And after 3mnths get a 40gallon tank from Petsmart with the doors that open in the front and u will get a 100Watt zoomed heat lamp. If u confine them in a small cage they will be very stressed and won’t grow to proper length. His poop: get a stool sample at a local reptile vet; he mite have Coccidia!! His poop should be white and solid dark brown & oval/firm like a cats poop. If it’s runny & smelly them it’s Coccidia which is ike lice u need to burn his cage in hot water & all times in it and don’t let him out till u get the antibiotics to kill it from a vet. Most pet stores sell with this disease due to dirty cages and poop licking. Keep the cage super duper clean I use white terry cloth towels as a substrate. Baths twice a week in lukewarm means a sliver above cold in dechlorinated after for 15min minimum twice per week. Buy Reptisafe if u dotm have a water filter system at home. Attached is a pic; u can get them little pillows too they love to be proped up. See how he has the basking in the front and hammock in the back & the long UVb goes in the back. Good luck
Thank you for your help. I love your beardies set up
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Hi,
I am very new to this I just bought my first baby bearded dragon yesterday and I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. I bought the Zoomed Reptihabitat 20 gallon and the enclosure came with multiple items. However, I am mostly worried about the lighting and the heat. I am using the UVB and heating light that it came with, but the temperatures are still not where they should be. The temperature is staying at 86 degrees but won’t reach up to 110-120. So I was wondering doesn anyone have any recommendations for additional heat or just different lighting I can use to reach the right temperature.
One other question I have is about there poop this is my first time with one and I just want to make sure everything is ok. We did feed him meal worms last night and I woke up to some things in the baby bearded dragons enclosure. So please help me out here sorry if it’s gross.
Thank you so much any tips and advice will be greatly appreciated. I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos to try and educate myself but there’s just never too much information.
Hi Ayeee; Did u read my long detailed response to you yesterday???? We rescue and rehome so please read and apply theres a lot of good info. Also to get the temp correct aside from a digital thermometer u need to have a good temp in yoir home. Turn the heater on to about 68-69 degrees that should help too or even 70
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Exactly NEVER ever have a temp over 110 for a Beardie!!!! As a baby it’s 105-100; after 5mntus or so it’s more like 100-105 And as he gets close to a year it’s more like 95-100. Also the temp in your home matters if it’s 62 in your hike crank up the heater to get a decent home temp of 68-70
 

Frank the baby beardry

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
553
Location
To bad
Exactly NEVER ever have a temp over 110 for a Beardie!!!! As a baby it’s 105-100; after 5mntus or so it’s more like 100-105 And as he gets close to a year it’s more like 95-100. Also the temp in your home matters if it’s 62 in your hike crank up the heater to get a decent home temp of 68-70
Man this form is great I have got so much good advice to give frank an awsome life
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
View attachment 26056

Thank you so much this was all very helpful. I will be going to the store today to get him everything you suggested.


Thank you so much this was very helpful. I will go to the store today and get him everything he needsView attachment 26073
Looks good jsit remove the sand!! Use white terry cloths. And get the Reptisun 10.0 T5 also a hammock behind the basking spot the brown mesh ones not the green hammocks
 

Julee1971

Juvenile Dragon
3 Year Member
Messages
773
Looks good jsit remove the sand!! Use white terry cloths. And get the Reptisun 10.0 T5 also a hammock behind the basking spot the brown mesh ones not the green hammocks
And place the diced veggies and greens plate in their everyday. Rule of thumb never feed anything bigger than the space between his 2 Eyes. As he gets bigger u can have the veggies sliced like a cucumber a bit bigger and bigger greens; the mustard greens/dandelions, etc. A new plate after 2-4 hours cuz it gets wilted & lots of proteins 4-5 times a day. Also, u can place the crickets in a big ziplock make a teeny knife slit in the calcium & vitamin powder and sprinkle and shake so they are dusted this also slows down the crickets. Once per week the herptivite and 4times per week n the calcium hit only once per day only. I train mine to eat out of the ziplock or slowly let them out di they don’t end up hiding in his cage. Also get the sand out or he will ingest it, be impacted & won’t be able to poop which will leas to health/tummy issues.
 

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