Excessive Hiding for my Bearded Dragon

[Sadie]

The temp of 107 is insane for adults; 100 is perfect maximum 102 also Beardie needs calcium 5times per week and way more protein and no spinach it binds to the calcium. And no colored bulbs ever it burns their eyes did u read whats she wrote?

T5's distance in the tank should be 12-15 inches-- if the screen is a wide holed like a dime it can be on top distance 8-10 inches-- fine screen in the tank- the screen blocks 30% of those rays-- the basking decor needs to directly underneath

 

[Curry’s owner]

I think she means the rock in the basking spot is 107, which is only a degree under the 108-113 it should be.

 

[Sadie]

I think she means the rock in the basking spot is 107, which is only a degree under the 108-113 it should be.

Basking temps should be 95-110 for adult no hotter- 105-110 for a baby no hotter-- temps need to be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer-- No Stickons- they are inaccurate--- it's nice to offer a piece of decor that offers a heat gradient- PetSmart has some nice decor pieces that would offer that

 

[Curry’s owner]

Basking temps should be 95-110 for adult no hotter- 105-110 for a baby no hotter-- temps need to be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer-- No Stickons- they are inaccurate--- it's nice to offer a piece of decor that offers a heat gradient- PetSmart has some nice decor pieces that would offer that

The rock surface I meant to say. Not the gradient

 

[Sadie]

The rock surface I meant to say. Not the gradient

Excessive hiding tells me the lighting is off / or basking temps

 

[Curry’s owner]

Or boredom. Ours will hide and sleep a lot if he doesn’t get out once a day

 

[mflavin79]

I agree basking temperature is way too warm

 

[Sadie]

They need to bask at least 4 hrs per day-- if they are hiding excessive there is a lighting issue- it could be possible brumation- but lighting needs to be ruled out first-

 

[Julee1971]

T5's distance in the tank should be 12-15 inches-- if the screen is a wide holed like a dime it can be on top distance 8-10 inches-- fine screen in the tank- the screen blocks 30% of those rays-- the basking decor needs to directly underneath

UVB in the back and basking in the front of that is the proper way it’s done so when they bask they get both uvb and heat. Also her dragon can’t eat or digest the food because he is not basking. My Reptisun covers the entire tank but it should only cover 70 prcnt so they can get away from the uvb when needed. But he’s dragon needs calcium and uvb ASAP and protein at least 20cricketa per day can’t imagine feeding him 1-2 times a week protein

 

[Godzilla mom]

Heyo guys,

This is a doozy that has been wildly stressing me out. I have my 4.5-year-old bearded dragon female that the past week or so has been very stubbornly hiding in her large hide.
Pumpkin (my bearded dragon) has always been the lazy sorts. Even when she gets a clean bill of health from her veterinarian she is just a lazy one. So I usually don't worry. But she has been in her hide sleeping more often than she has been awake and out basking lately.

Basic Husbandry...
The basking spot is107, the cool spot is 83. With obviously a gradient between.
Humidity stays around 32-38.
Paper towel substrate that is cleaned often.
Fed a diet of greens (sprayed with water and dusted with bee pollen) 6 times a week.
Roaches 1-2 times a week (with calcium).
She has a UVB tube light and I turned it off a few days to see if maybe it somehow was bothering her eyes despite being mounted at the recommended height, but it changed nothing.

She has no darkening marks, no marks on her belly to indicate stress, she still is eating her food but I generally have to coax her to eat her greens. Wiggle them around, encourage her to come out of her hide (which she will do if I show her the tongs I feed her with), and so forth. She still has her normal bowel movements. And she does not look like she is gravid and looking to dig/lay eggs.

The frustrating thing is I cannot go to the vet. Despite my constant quarantining for MONTHS, my father decided to go on a personal trip and got sick with COVID which he brought home to me. While I am pushing through horrible fevers, exhaustion, dizziness, and goodness you do not want to know how bad I feel... I am also worried about my bearded dragon. She is my baby girl. Do any of you guys have ideas or suggestions? It is going to be weeks before I can ever get her to a vet...

Do you know if it's time for her to bermate?

 

[Sadie]

Do you know if it's time for her to bermate?

They brumate-- at different times some start in the fall some wait till dec- depends on the dragon-- go over your lighting uvb brand and bulb coil or tube where in the tank top of screen or inside - basking temps what are they how are you taking them NO STICK ONS-- they are inaccurate-- you need a digital probe thermometer

 

[Julee1971]

They need to bask at least 4 hrs per day-- if they are hiding excessive there is a lighting issue- it could be possible brumation- but lighting needs to be ruled out first-

What??? In the summer they need Heat & UVB forn12-14 Hours a day and in the winter 8-10!! What planet are you from? Seriously?? I Reacue and rehome and Work with many shelters and rescue teams!! Just read and give your Beardie 12-14 Hours.

They need to bask at least 4 hrs per day-- if they are hiding excessive there is a lighting issue- it could be possible brumation- but lighting needs to be ruled out first-

 

[Sadie]

Photo period is 12 hrs on and 12 hrs off-- usually they do not bask that whole time-- they need to at least bask for 4 hrs per day to get digestion going especially after eating - they need to have that option

 

[Julee1971]

Photo period is 12 hrs on and 12 hrs off-- usually they do not bask that whole time-- they need to at least bask for 4 hrs per day to get digestion going especially after eating - they need to have that option

In general they should be on heatvand uvb for 12-14 they can’t survive on only 4

 

[Julee1971]

I think she means the rock in the basking spot is 107, which is only a degree under the 108-113 it should be.

NO bashing for adults is 95-100 and 100 to 102 is ideal nothing higher

 

[Julee1971]

Do you know if it's time for her to bermate?

Brumating is not the issue mine never bromate that was a 1percwnt chance rite now u need to lower the temp ASAP and give her calcium 5 Days a week and baths with dechlorinated water or use reptisafe and lots of drinking water with reptisafe and more protein. If she doesn’t bask she can’t eat or digest the food. If it’s MBD which giving calcium 1/2 times a week only is a 99.9 chance that she cannot move or walk due to brittle and weak bones. Get the heat right and place her under there and gove her protein with calcium but she will need a vet ASAP. How can u focus on Brumate and ignore all that we all posted to Help you????

 

[Sadie]

Do you know if it's time for her to bermate?

She has a UVB tube light What are you using for a UVB? T 5 or a T 8 and where in the tank is it?

 

[Julee1971]

They brumate-- at different times some start in the fall some wait till dec- depends on the dragon-- go over your lighting uvb brand and bulb coil or tube where in the tank top of screen or inside - basking temps what are they how are you taking them NO STICK ONS-- they are inaccurate-- you need a digital probe thermometer

Also if u don’t have proper UVB they can’t obtain vitamin D or breakdown calcium. Also u need the ZooMed digital thermometer and humidity round digital cage by Thrive. Humidity should be 30-40 never higher. Order the Reptisun and other things on amazon it will b week overnite

 

[QueenPineapple]

Hi; a Temp of 107 for an adult Beardie is way too high; needs to be 100 is actually perfect either raise the light or get a lower basking platform and get the temp down to 100 maximum 102 but not any higher. Remember in the summer it gets sky high the temp so u have to monitor. If she doesn’t bask she can’t eat they need to be warm for at least an hour before feeding. Try that and this will help and most importantly your Beardie needs calcium ASAP dusted on her protein or greens 5 times a week. Calcium is what gives them strong bones, otherwise she will get MBD and needs a vet ASAP. In the meantime give her a bath twice a week or more to get her to poop and hydrate her and give her lots of water. Never heard of bee pollen that’s just to get them to eat their greens. Also she needs more protein that only 1-2 times a week. Protein everyday; at least 20 large crickets per day minimum and or Dubia Roaches w/calcium. U can also give her a hornworm a day a big one or some super worms 5-6 or more per day she will love those and will eat. It’s highbin fate so maybe give the hornworms 1-2 per day for a few weeks after u get the temp downa dm age basks. To get her to eat, she has to have the heat temp correct and then place her in her basking spot after u get it to 100. The uvb needs to be the long tubular Reptisun 10.0 T5 & should be placed at the back of the tank beginning with that hot side & should cover 70 prcnt of the tank. The heat lamp should be a clear bulb tyoically ZooMed and placed more to the front at least 8 inches away so when she basks she gets UVb but her basking spot should not be closer than 12inches from the uvb. Also, NO colored bulbs it burns their eyes; of u have any remove it and at nite they like pure dark so no bulbs ever at nite unless in the winter it gets cold u can buy a ceramic Heat emitter. Greens should be dandelions, mustard and collard greens With snap peas and yellow squash and endives. If you are doign spinach-Stop it binds to the the calcium in her body and is horrible for them.

Woah woah woah okay. Please don't make me close this thread due to all the back and forth here arguing about temperature and what not.

1. The temperature at its highest is 108 on the basking spot below the rock. It is taken with an infrared heat gun. The ambient heat with a probe is 98-100 during her full daylight hours. All gradient temperatures i take with my heat gun as the digital probe will only ever record temperatures in that immediate space.

2. She does not eat Spinach. I do not know where you got spinach from. She only ever eats greens.

3. I specified in the post she is eating, and pooping, very fine. Perfectly healthy and normal. I feed her dubia roaches, dust her salad with what she needs, and she gets water offered as well as baths. She never has issues with her eating and pooping. Her weight is perfect with the diet schedule she has and my vet helped recommend it to avoid her gaining more weight as she began to get a little extra curvy.

4. She certainly is not at risk or is a candidate for MBD. She is very strong and moves easily. She just decided to hide in her cave for a while. I think she was just being lazy as she is out and normal all over again.

5. Her lights are on a timer that keeps them on from 6am to 8pm. At night they turn off. She stays warm enough without an emitter due to ambient room temperature.

6. She has the t10 tube uvb and colorless heat bulb. Both placed opposing sides with platforms near both so she can regulate as she wishes.

 

[Julee1971]

Woah woah woah okay. Please don't make me close this thread due to all the back and forth here arguing about temperature and what not.

1. The temperature at its highest is 108 on the basking spot below the rock. It is taken with an infrared heat gun. The ambient heat with a probe is 98-100 during her full daylight hours. All gradient temperatures i take with my heat gun as the digital probe will only ever record temperatures in that immediate space.

2. She does not eat Spinach. I do not know where you got spinach from. She only ever eats greens.

3. I specified in the post she is eating, and pooping, very fine. Perfectly healthy and normal. I feed her dubia roaches, dust her salad with what she needs, and she gets water offered as well as baths. She never has issues with her eating and pooping. Her weight is perfect with the diet schedule she has and my vet helped recommend it to avoid her gaining more weight as she began to get a little extra curvy.

4. She certainly is not at risk or is a candidate for MBD. She is very strong and moves easily. She just decided to hide in her cave for a while. I think she was just being lazy as she is out and normal all over again.

5. Her lights are on a timer that keeps them on from 6am to 8pm. At night they turn off. She stays warm enough without an emitter due to ambient room temperature.

6. She has the t10 tube uvb and colorless heat bulb. Both placed opposing sides with platforms near both so she can regulate as she wishes.

Ok if the temp is 107 below the basking platform then that means it’s like 115-120 on the platform. Place the probe on the platform it’s way way way to hot. Raise the lamp or get a new platform please and u need the Reptisun T5 10.0 and the UVB bulb needs to be replaced every 6months. If u only have a T5 upgrade soon but have u been replacing it went 6months? Also, calcium 5 Days a week and more protein. Greens; the ones I listed kale, lettuce and spinach are not good.