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care sheet for leos
- Thread starter corrine
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this is a good site (i dont know much about Geckos but i have dealt with the owner in the past and he is a good enough guy hopefully his info is good)
http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/leos.htm
but as always check out anything else you can. check out some gecko specific forums as well they normally have care sheets on them. ;D
http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/leos.htm
but as always check out anything else you can. check out some gecko specific forums as well they normally have care sheets on them. ;D
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YUP
Janie
Janie
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They can either be all alone, especially the males, or in multiples, females.
You can house 1 male with up to 5 females, but expect egg laying to happen.
Now you will need to provide higher humidity hides, I tend to use cleaned out margerine containers with the holes cut in the lids for the gecks to crawl in and out of.
Temps, not as hot as dragons, but still warm.
I keep mine no warmer than 86*, no cooler than 70*.
Janie.
You can house 1 male with up to 5 females, but expect egg laying to happen.
Now you will need to provide higher humidity hides, I tend to use cleaned out margerine containers with the holes cut in the lids for the gecks to crawl in and out of.
Temps, not as hot as dragons, but still warm.
I keep mine no warmer than 86*, no cooler than 70*.
Janie.
depends on what kind of light, your ambient temps and what they will drop to at night.
For instance, if your light is a black light, your ambient is around 85, your cool side at 80 and your warm side at 90 day time temps, you could leave your black light on thru the night if you needed more heat than recommended (above 75).
Black lights are non obtrustive, but white lights hurt leopards.
For instance, if your light is a black light, your ambient is around 85, your cool side at 80 and your warm side at 90 day time temps, you could leave your black light on thru the night if you needed more heat than recommended (above 75).
Black lights are non obtrustive, but white lights hurt leopards.
Im new to leos too so thought I would ask my question here incase corrine could use this info too!!! do you need to mist them/enclosure? also fruit do you feed them any source of fruit baby food or fresh? or do they only eat crix,worms,ect...
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As long as you have the damp hide, you can mist that, you shouldn't need to dampen a leo by misting, though you can offer a bath if shedding is not coming along well.
leos are insectivores, they won't know what to do with veggies or fruit, so just give that to the feeders instead
Janie.
leos are insectivores, they won't know what to do with veggies or fruit, so just give that to the feeders instead
Janie.
i did buy a blacklight bulb. I've gotta clean out the 25 gallon tank that i was using as a feeder tank for YoYo. I'll be setting it up after work. Newspaper is a good substrate for geckos right? Can tile be used? How many hides does one gecko need? And what do i use for a damp hide?
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Leos need one damp hide, a dry hide, though I use a combination since I house in one enclosure 6 females. You can use damp paper towels, sphagnum moss, peat moss.... Just watch your geck close, as they can injest the particulate substrate.
I also have every last one of mine currently on tile. Easy cleaning, and I did seal mine all in, so I can run a steam cleaner weekly.
Janie
I also have every last one of mine currently on tile. Easy cleaning, and I did seal mine all in, so I can run a steam cleaner weekly.
Janie
LEOPARD GECKOS
The Leopard Gecko is a fantastic first reptile for those just entering this hobby, or for those more experienced. They have many different morphs, each with unique traits. They are approximately 8-10 inches long as adults, however, giants are larger. They are primarily nocturnal, but emerge during the daytime as well.
HANDLING
Leopards rarely attempt to bite unless mishandled or afraid. Young geckos may “scream” and hiss, and shouldn’t be provoked. High stress situations may cause them to drop their tails. The tails do regenerate, however, they never appear the same.
HOUSING
Leopards can be housed easily in many different types of caging. They cannot climb smooth surfaces, so lids are not required, but should be considered if other pets or small children are a possibility in your home.
I prefer non particle substrate for leopards. At times they will ingest particles to use as grit for digestion, just as birds do. This can lead to an impaction issue if left unobserved, and certain husbandry conditions are met.
A small water bowl should be kept inside the enclosure. It should be no deeper than the gecko stands and should be changed daily. A calcium dish should also be provided daily.
Leopards will consume crickets, roaches, waxworms and mealworms, each age appropriate as they grow. Dust foods about 2 times per week for growing geckos, once for adults who are not laying. If females are producing eggs, provided dusted prey daily.
A dry hide, as well as a humid hide should be provided in the enclosure, one for each gecko.
TEMPERATURES
Temperatures ranging from 75-92 will suit the Leopard thru the day and should be at a gradient. A night time drop is acceptable but shouldn’t go below 72. A under tank heater, heat pad or black light provide good heating sources for your gecko.
LIGHTING
Leopards are a nocturnal gecko and do not require UVB.
CARE
After bringing your new gecko home, you should limit movement around and in the enclosure for several days. Also be sure to feed him inside his enclosure only. During this time, it’s important that he have several places to hide.
Males are typically larger in size than females, and have V-shaped pre-anal pores and a pair of prominent hemipene bulges. Never keep more than one male per cage.
Leopards are a fun and exciting pet to keep. With the proper care, they can live out full lives of 20+ years. So be prepared for a very long relationship.
The Leopard Gecko is a fantastic first reptile for those just entering this hobby, or for those more experienced. They have many different morphs, each with unique traits. They are approximately 8-10 inches long as adults, however, giants are larger. They are primarily nocturnal, but emerge during the daytime as well.
HANDLING
Leopards rarely attempt to bite unless mishandled or afraid. Young geckos may “scream” and hiss, and shouldn’t be provoked. High stress situations may cause them to drop their tails. The tails do regenerate, however, they never appear the same.
HOUSING
Leopards can be housed easily in many different types of caging. They cannot climb smooth surfaces, so lids are not required, but should be considered if other pets or small children are a possibility in your home.
I prefer non particle substrate for leopards. At times they will ingest particles to use as grit for digestion, just as birds do. This can lead to an impaction issue if left unobserved, and certain husbandry conditions are met.
A small water bowl should be kept inside the enclosure. It should be no deeper than the gecko stands and should be changed daily. A calcium dish should also be provided daily.
Leopards will consume crickets, roaches, waxworms and mealworms, each age appropriate as they grow. Dust foods about 2 times per week for growing geckos, once for adults who are not laying. If females are producing eggs, provided dusted prey daily.
A dry hide, as well as a humid hide should be provided in the enclosure, one for each gecko.
TEMPERATURES
Temperatures ranging from 75-92 will suit the Leopard thru the day and should be at a gradient. A night time drop is acceptable but shouldn’t go below 72. A under tank heater, heat pad or black light provide good heating sources for your gecko.
LIGHTING
Leopards are a nocturnal gecko and do not require UVB.
CARE
After bringing your new gecko home, you should limit movement around and in the enclosure for several days. Also be sure to feed him inside his enclosure only. During this time, it’s important that he have several places to hide.
Males are typically larger in size than females, and have V-shaped pre-anal pores and a pair of prominent hemipene bulges. Never keep more than one male per cage.
Leopards are a fun and exciting pet to keep. With the proper care, they can live out full lives of 20+ years. So be prepared for a very long relationship.
Thanks Gina and Janie for all ur help. I'm going to be setting up his(i think it's a boy) tank shortly. Do they need one of each hide on each side of the tank? I'm sure I'll probably have more questions but this info should be enough to get me started.
I keep the humid hide toward the warmer end, and the dry hide more toward the cooler side of gradient, yet not all the way into it. Occasionally, in mid summer I find them on the cool side under the paper towel. So i guess they like the options.
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i feed nights since they are nocturnal, and i feed as much as they want in 10 minutes every other night
janie
janie