Capbo has something odd with his lips I think

[Dennis Cronin]

See picture. Noticed it several days ago but he's been shedding so I thought it was something to do with that. But it hasn't gone away and looking at it close it looks like some kind of swelling and discoloration of the skin around his lips. Any idea? Diet has been the same (Dubias, kale, collard greens, Romaine). Small change in lighting since a bulb burned out and I replaced it with a different one but I verified he's got a 110 degree basking spot.

Dennis

 

[gilliesexotics]

Hi, that looks like mouth rot. Your animal will need to a see a vet that is knowledgeable with reptiles. They will find the source and treat accordingly. Left untreated, mouth rot will take your animals life.

 

[Dennis Cronin]

Thanks for the fast response. I had just posted a pic of him here a couple weeks ago and I went back and looked at that and didn't see any sign, so at least it's pretty recent.

We live in the greater Phoenix area so shouldn't have much trouble finding a reptile vet in the desert I'd hope, but any recommendations would be welcome.

Dennis

 

[Dennis Cronin]

OK, have an appointment with Dr. Ingram tomorrow at All Creatures. A vet friend said yeah, it's likely mouth rot. She says she's treated her snakes for that a few times. Apparently not too uncommon in reptiles.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

How do BD's get mouth rot?

 

[Dennis Cronin]

Stress or something that impacts their normal immune system, excessive humidity, kissing another lizard with MR. Man, I dunno, but sounds like it's not all that uncommon.

 

[Dennis Cronin]

Vet gave me some antibiotics to administer and suggested I pick up some vitamins A & D3. He swabbed some of the nasty looking stuff off and suggested I do the same with a Q-tip and warm water. And more baths until he's better.

Dennis

 

[gilliesexotics]

Awesome news, if i may offer one suggestion. While on antibiotics, it is important that your dragon is hydrated.

Ways to hydrate:
1. Horn worms.
2. Soak your dragon.
3. Inject his feeders with water.
4. If he is a good of greens. Spray his greens with water.

Did the vet examine inside the mouth for the cause?

 

[Bushmaster11B]

http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Mouthrot.html



Mouth rot is a systemic infection that often shows up as a whitish, or yellow-gray cheesy substance in the soft tissues of the mouth. In advanced cases, the head may be quite swollen, and teeth may be loose. You need to take your dragon to a vet for a proper diagnosis and antibiotic treatment if you suspect he has mouth rot.
Treatment usually consists of treating the mouth with diluted solutions of Betadine and Nolvasan. The plaques that form along the teeth and gums must be dislodged - preferrably by a vet. It is important that the plaques not be injested by the Beardie. After the debris is cleaned out of the mouth, antibiotic treatment can begin. During the course of the antibiotic therapy, the mouth should be checked daily to watch for any regrowth of plaques. It is not unusual for this process to be repeated two or more times during recovery. Particularly severe cases may require more than a single treatment.
If there is any bleeding upon the removal of the first plaque, the Beardie may be started on a 10 day course of antibiotics.
Beardies can carry a variety of negative bacteria. The bacteria may not be the underlying cause of the stomatitis, their existence may slow the recovery. The presence of negative bacteria may require that two antibiotics be administered simultaneously. Most veterinarians use a broad-spectrum antibiotic, but these may not be effective. The standard culture sampling techniques of swabbing or washes may a yield a confusing mixture of natural and opportunistic buccal and environmental flora. A better method for obtaining a sample for culturing in resistant stomatitis cases is to make an incision into the infected gum and take a small sample of the infected tissue.
Reptiles suffering from stomatitis often cease or greatly reduce voluntary intake of food and water. Supportive therapy should include replacement of fluids and administration of vitamin B-complex and vitamin C . Vitamin A may also be supplemented with care given to administer only very small doses due to potential toxicity. If the patient is going to be tube-fed, vitamin A should be given orally, mixed in with the food.
If the Beardie has not eaten in some time, solid food should not be given. Force feeding whole prey is stressful under the best of conditions, additional stress should be minimized as much as possible. Instead, offer a nutritional slurry orally. Baby food makes a great base for a slurry. Add in calcium and vitamins as needed.
Beardies should be kept near the upper end of their required temperature gradient to ensure maximum benefit from the antibiotics and to boost their immune system function. Reptiles who would otherwise have temperatures dropped at night should be kept near their normal daytime temps. (Remember, never use bright light to heat an enclosure at night time.) Water should be supplied either by dripping droplets onto the Beardie's nose to lap up or by misting or bathing.

 

[Dennis Cronin]

The vet talked about hydration suggesting additional baths. Capbo mostly just scrambles to get out of the tub though, not really "soaking" as I think of it. I always make sure he's got a log to sit on up and out of the water but he jumps off and goes scrabbling and inflates himself. Thoughts to help him relax at bath time?

He eats a fair amount of salad per day so I'll make sure that's kept moist. How would I "inject his feeders" exactly? An issue there is he doesn't always eat his bugs right away. Sometimes I have to sweep out from under this branch a few times before he's got 'em all.

His appetite has still been pretty good, maybe a little less than normal but I'm kinda accustomed to an ebb and flow in the eating department.

He's only flashed the black beard at me once. He was kinda mad about this vet thing I think.

 

[Bushmaster11B]

You just have to find the right temperature that Capbo likes. Aries likes it at 101 degrees exactly. I keep him in a bath for about 10 minutes or so unless he poos in his bath, then I clean out and fill it back up again. Baths are usually better in the AM shortly after lights come on in the enclosure. Aries seem to be more "chill" this way because he is beginning to get warm in the mornings and loves the warm water surrounding him, which in turn.... warms him up. At first they will splash a bit but it's for their own good. Just make sure the water is arm pit deep only, nothing more. And supervise the baths.

 

[TheGuvnor]

Just fill the bath an inch or 2, and put like a towel or a rock so they can hold on to. They feel safer that way. Just make sure the vent area at the backis in the water. This is where they take in the water to hydrate.
They do of course still drink from the mouth. But rarely.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Vent area on their back? Guvnor, can you elaborate or show me a link of this? I'm interested. The rock is a good idea.

 

[Jaycies]

Vent area on their back? Guvnor, can you elaborate or show me a link of this? I'm interested. The rock is a good idea.

I think he means under the tail.

 

[Dennis Cronin]

Tried a morning bath, measure 100.7 degrees. Seemed to go better. At least he spent a little time just sitting there instead of freaking out the entire time. Yeah, I guess I need to know about the vent too. I was assuming it was the dark things at the back of his head but to get those underwater would tend to drown the little guy.

Dennis

 

[Bushmaster11B]

Yeah I agree, just arm pit deep water Bro. Still wanting to know what Guvnor was talking about. Surely he is not referring to the BD's anal gland....

 

[TheGuvnor]

Vent area on their back? Guvnor, can you elaborate or show me a link of this? I'm interested. The rock is a good idea.

LoL. Yes, did actually say "vent area at the back". So yea, base of the tail where they poop.


Reason being. The water they come across In the wild is often stagnant streams and puddles, and full of bacteria. If they took the water through the mouth, I obviously travels through their whole system. They absorb through the vent thus avoiding vital areas and potential illness.

They do still drink from mouth. Usually just morning dew etc. And most of there hydration will come from food.

 

[gilliesexotics]

LoL. Yes, did actually say "vent area at the back". So yea, base of the tail where they poop.


Reason being. The water they come across In the wild is often stagnant streams and puddles, and full of bacteria. If they took the water through the mouth, I obviously travels through their whole system. They absorb through the vent thus avoiding vital areas and potential illness.

They do still drink from mouth. Usually just morning dew etc. And most of there hydration will come from food.

Hi, im very interested to read more about this. Can you provide some links on this subject?

 

[TheGuvnor]

There is much info about it I should think. Just do a Google search guys .
I learnt about it all while doing a zoology degree and specialise in herpetology in honours about 18 years ago, with an internship at Munich zoo. Also a year out in Victoria Australia in which I watched over the work of Dr Hume. To be fair, I learnt more in that year out than any other time. Seen so many sick beardie, snakes etc.
But times have changed. As have the parasites and problems and methods.

I'm still working with reps. I have a reptile boarding house in my home town in uk. Its all good. Business is booming.

I just like to advise. People can listen if they wish, and, I'm also still learning. There are new methods, New foods, news equipment all the time. It's good to be in a forum like this to see what is happening in the world of reptiles. Beardies and Rankins mainly for me tho.


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

 

[Bushmaster11B]

I googled it and found nothing. maybe since you went to school for it, you could scan your pages in your text book where it is.... just saying