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Bearded Dragon Lethargic -not eating/basking

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Cass

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
So I have a 1 year 4 month old dragon, Pippin. I believe Pippin is female, though I don't know for certain. Tank is about 70 gal, warm/basking side stays around 90, cool around 60-70. Currently she is underweight, and has a very hard time with food intake. Unfortunately our vet is closed currently due to a Covid-19 outbreak, so I can't take her in to get looked at. She has always had a problem with eating but recently it has become little to no food intake. I suspected for a while she might be burmating, but upon offering food about once a week (dried mealworms, as keeping crickets has been hard with such a sporadic diet) she would sometimes eat absolutely ravenously. Now she won't eat anything at all. I don't quite know if this is burmation or a health problem, because she has had a similar problem the whole time I've had her.
Pippin has always had problems with eating vegetables. Every time I try to break her into them, she just will not do it. She will go a long time without eating, to the point where I get concerned about restricting further, and leave the veggies sitting there every time. I try a variety (yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans, broccoli, kale, collard greens, carrots) and nothing sticks, even when I remove protein from her diet and restrict to just vegetables. She will only eat crickets, dried mealworms, and hornworm, so crickets have made up most of her diet. She will no longer get up to chase the crickets herself, and when she does try, she has trouble catching them as though she cannot see them or is too tired to catch them.
She also doesn't bask anymore, starting around July (5 months ago). She will sit under a shade I have on the basking side of the tank and sleep all day. I've been ensuring the temperature is at least 80, usually around 90F. When I thought she might be burmating was when she moved herself under a hide on the cool side of the tank. I moved her once to weigh her, and she never went back under the hide, she just stayed where I placed her under the warm side hide. She also does not sleep, she remains awake .

Im concerned about her health, because I 1)cannot tell if she is going through burmation 2) am concerned about her eating habits overall. What can I do to help her? How can I get her energy up enough for her to be an active, happy, healthy lizard?
 

Bostonfinest

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
212
Do you have another Vet in you area, The first thing I would do is take her to the Vet for a checkup and fecal exam. Then I would start looking at your setup what are you using for UVB and how are you measuring the temperature. It is brumating season even mine is semi brumating and he is a year and 2 months. Do you have a scale if so I would weigh her once or twice a week and make sure she stay hydrated
 

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
Make sure the basking area is at 100-105 degrees. If she started doing this in July, there's probably a long-term issue that needs to be resolved, not brumation. Problems like this are often caused by low temps and/or a UVB issue.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
So I have a 1 year 4 month old dragon, Pippin. I believe Pippin is female, though I don't know for certain. Tank is about 70 gal, warm/basking side stays around 90, cool around 60-70. Currently she is underweight, and has a very hard time with food intake. Unfortunately our vet is closed currently due to a Covid-19 outbreak, so I can't take her in to get looked at. She has always had a problem with eating but recently it has become little to no food intake. I suspected for a while she might be burmating, but upon offering food about once a week (dried mealworms, as keeping crickets has been hard with such a sporadic diet) she would sometimes eat absolutely ravenously. Now she won't eat anything at all. I don't quite know if this is burmation or a health problem, because she has had a similar problem the whole time I've had her.
Pippin has always had problems with eating vegetables. Every time I try to break her into them, she just will not do it. She will go a long time without eating, to the point where I get concerned about restricting further, and leave the veggies sitting there every time. I try a variety (yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans, broccoli, kale, collard greens, carrots) and nothing sticks, even when I remove protein from her diet and restrict to just vegetables. She will only eat crickets, dried mealworms, and hornworm, so crickets have made up most of her diet. She will no longer get up to chase the crickets herself, and when she does try, she has trouble catching them as though she cannot see them or is too tired to catch them.
She also doesn't bask anymore, starting around July (5 months ago). She will sit under a shade I have on the basking side of the tank and sleep all day. I've been ensuring the temperature is at least 80, usually around 90F. When I thought she might be burmating was when she moved herself under a hide on the cool side of the tank. I moved her once to weigh her, and she never went back under the hide, she just stayed where I placed her under the warm side hide. She also does not sleep, she remains awake .

Im concerned about her health, because I 1)cannot tell if she is going through burmation 2) am concerned about her eating habits overall. What can I do to help her? How can I get her energy up enough for her to be an active, happy, healthy lizard?
Babies DO NOT brumate --- your basking temps are too low -- they need to be 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- I would cut your tank off size wise for now to around half the size -- partition it off -- its better shes in something small for now so you can focus on basking temps and UVB -- what are you using for a UVB? NO coils please --- the two MOST important things in the tank are basking temps and UVB ---- please keep her hydrated either by syringe feeding VERY slow -- let her drink what you administer dropping water on her nose eye dropper -- but she needs hydration -- all the foods your feeding are good -- but she will not eat unless basking temps are correct AND UVB is correct -- she cannot absorb her calcium w/ out proper UVB and also means correct distance and placement -- please tell me what you have for a UVB
 

Cass

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
Do you have another Vet in you area, The first thing I would do is take her to the Vet for a checkup and fecal exam. Then I would start looking at your setup what are you using for UVB and how are you measuring the temperature. It is brumating season even mine is semi brumating and he is a year and 2 months. Do you have a scale if so I would weigh her once or twice a week and make sure she stay hydrated
We only have one vet in the area who specializes in exotics unfortunately, the curse of small towns. In the meantime I may buy a different temp sensor, right now I have the little wire temp probes, and maybe investing in a handheld temp gun would be more accurate. I can change her UVB as well and see if that affects anything. Right now I use a Reptisun 10.0 T5 tube. Her heat lamps were just changed about a month ago, but the current UVB bulb has been around about 5 months so it's close to time for a change. I have a scale, so I will try weighing her more, if she loses significant weight due to her not eating, I'll take her in somewhere for a check. Thank you for your advice!
 

Bostonfinest

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
212
Babies DO NOT brumate --- your basking temps are too low -- they need to be 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- I would cut your tank off size wise for now to around half the size -- partition it off -- its better shes in something small for now so you can focus on basking temps and UVB -- what are you using for a UVB? NO coils please --- the two MOST important things in the tank are basking temps and UVB ---- please keep her hydrated either by syringe feeding VERY slow -- let her drink what you administer dropping water on her nose eye dropper -- but she needs hydration -- all the foods your feeding are good -- but she will not eat unless basking temps are correct AND UVB is correct -- she cannot absorb her calcium w/ out proper UVB and also means correct distance and placement -- please tell me what you have for a UVB
His beardie is not a baby she is a year and 4 months. Beardies will go into brumation or semi brumation at the age of 1
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
We only have one vet in the area who specializes in exotics unfortunately, the curse of small towns. In the meantime I may buy a different temp sensor, right now I have the little wire temp probes, and maybe investing in a handheld temp gun would be more accurate. I can change her UVB as well and see if that affects anything. Right now I use a Reptisun 10.0 T5 tube. Her heat lamps were just changed about a month ago, but the current UVB bulb has been around about 5 months so it's close to time for a change. I have a scale, so I will try weighing her more, if she loses significant weight due to her not eating, I'll take her in somewhere for a check. Thank you for your advice!
Oops sorry missed the 1 year part so yes the temps should be 95-110- and most older dragons do not like hotter temps -- the UVB where in the tank is it -- the T 5 is one of the best bulbs on the market ---please do not get rid of it --- and T 5's last a year--- I usually change mine out about a month prior to expiration--- parasites can cause not eating as well --- but the UVB needs proper placement -- where is it? Do her poops smell so bad they make you want to leave the room? Are they real runny ?
 

Bostonfinest

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
212
Oops sorry missed the 1 year part so yes the temps should be 95-110- and most older dragons do not like hotter temps -- the UVB where in the tank is it -- the T 5 is one of the best bulbs on the market ---please do not get rid of it --- and T 5's last a year--- I usually change mine out about a month prior to expiration--- parasites can cause not eating as well --- but the UVB needs proper placement -- where is it? Do her poops smell so bad they make you want to leave the room? Are they real runny ?
LOL, I know I almost did too at first
 

Cass

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
Oops sorry missed the 1 year part so yes the temps should be 95-110- and most older dragons do not like hotter temps -- the UVB where in the tank is it -- the T 5 is one of the best bulbs on the market ---please do not get rid of it --- and T 5's last a year--- I usually change mine out about a month prior to expiration--- parasites can cause not eating as well --- but the UVB needs proper placement -- where is it? Do her poops smell so bad they make you want to leave the room? Are they real runny ?
No worries about the year. The UVB tube is placed center of the tank on the wire lid, with about a foot on either side of the hood to the edge of the tank lengthwise. Last poop was a while ago, probably three weeks, since she hasn't been eating much, which is part of what concerns me. They usually smell a little, but not so bad they're unbearable. Also fairly solid, gelatinous but not overly runny or firm. The color ranges from brown to a greenish. Thanks for your help!!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
No worries about the year. The UVB tube is placed center of the tank on the wire lid, with about a foot on either side of the hood to the edge of the tank lengthwise. Last poop was a while ago, probably three weeks, since she hasn't been eating much, which is part of what concerns me. They usually smell a little, but not so bad they're unbearable. Also fairly solid, gelatinous but not overly runny or firm. The color ranges from brown to a greenish. Thanks for your help!!
Ok so the basking distance should be 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor inside the tank if its on top of screen and the screen is a fine mesh shes not getting much UVB --- the screen is blocking 30% of those rays --- if its a wide holed screen it can stay on top but the basking decor should be 8-10 inches directly over --- if this is all correct there is something else going on ---- brumation is when they will sleep for long periods of time -- deep brumation you cant wake them up -- mine are almost 3 and the other around 17 months and both are not eating a whole lot and really lazy basking etc -- the oldest has gone into his hide a few times and not appeared for a few days sleeping the whole time -- is she hydrated ? W / her not eating she needs to stay hydrated --- that too will cause loss of appetite --
 

Beardielove363

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
84
So I have a 1 year 4 month old dragon, Pippin. I believe Pippin is female, though I don't know for certain. Tank is about 70 gal, warm/basking side stays around 90, cool around 60-70. Currently she is underweight, and has a very hard time with food intake. Unfortunately our vet is closed currently due to a Covid-19 outbreak, so I can't take her in to get looked at. She has always had a problem with eating but recently it has become little to no food intake. I suspected for a while she might be burmating, but upon offering food about once a week (dried mealworms, as keeping crickets has been hard with such a sporadic diet) she would sometimes eat absolutely ravenously. Now she won't eat anything at all. I don't quite know if this is burmation or a health problem, because she has had a similar problem the whole time I've had her.
Pippin has always had problems with eating vegetables. Every time I try to break her into them, she just will not do it. She will go a long time without eating, to the point where I get concerned about restricting further, and leave the veggies sitting there every time. I try a variety (yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans, broccoli, kale, collard greens, carrots) and nothing sticks, even when I remove protein from her diet and restrict to just vegetables. She will only eat crickets, dried mealworms, and hornworm, so crickets have made up most of her diet. She will no longer get up to chase the crickets herself, and when she does try, she has trouble catching them as though she cannot see them or is too tired to catch them.
She also doesn't bask anymore, starting around July (5 months ago). She will sit under a shade I have on the basking side of the tank and sleep all day. I've been ensuring the temperature is at least 80, usually around 90F. When I thought she might be burmating was when she moved herself under a hide on the cool side of the tank. I moved her once to weigh her, and she never went back under the hide, she just stayed where I placed her under the warm side hide. She also does not sleep, she remains awake .

Im concerned about her health, because I 1)cannot tell if she is going through burmation 2) am concerned about her eating habits overall. What can I do to help her? How can I get her energy up enough for her to be an active, happy, healthy lizard?
My beardie is having just about the exact same problem she has been sick since we got her. we had taken her to the vet and she got better for a little bit but started declining again and is worse than she was before. Her fecal matter is very runny and a very light brownish green... her eyes wont stay open and she refuses to eat anything. we have been trying to feed her we got her to eat one of the big blue worms but that's all she ate and that was days ago. We are trying to get her to eat mealworms and berries and we are putting calcium on everything.
 

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
My beardie is having just about the exact same problem she has been sick since we got her. we had taken her to the vet and she got better for a little bit but started declining again and is worse than she was before. Her fecal matter is very runny and a very light brownish green... her eyes wont stay open and she refuses to eat anything. we have been trying to feed her we got her to eat one of the big blue worms but that's all she ate and that was days ago. We are trying to get her to eat mealworms and berries and we are putting calcium on everything.
Please answer the questions so we can help, and book an appointment at the vet's for a checkup, blood tests, and a fecal test as soon as possible.

1. Do you only feed mealworms (and the single hornworm)? What other insects do you offer?
2. Where did you get her from?
3. Have you noticed her shaking, vomiting, "stargazing", or dragging her hind legs?
4. What do you use for a UVB lamp and a heat lamp?
5. What are her basking temperatures, and how do you measure them?
6. What do you use as her cage substrate?
7. What supplements do you use?
8. How old is she?
 

Beardielove363

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
84
Please answer the questions so we can help, and book an appointment at the vet's for a checkup, blood tests, and a fecal test as soon as possible.

1. Do you only feed mealworms (and the single hornworm)? What other insects do you offer?
2. Where did you get her from?
3. Have you noticed her shaking, vomiting, "stargazing", or dragging her hind legs?
4. What do you use for a UVB lamp and a heat lamp?
5. What are her basking temperatures, and how do you measure them?
6. What do you use as her cage substrate?
7. What supplements do you use?
8. How old is she?
I also offer crickets not only mealworms, I got her from petsmart, no she isn't doing any of that, I use a 10.0 t8 reptisun and i believe a 75 watt we went down because of her being sick we thought she was too hot she wouldn't stay out of her cool side, and her baking temps are about 100 we use the stick on thermometer, we have started using the carpet stuff we havent used sand in awhile we thought that might have been making her sick, we use calcium and reptivite and reptiboost, she is about a year and 2 months we got her she was about 2 months and that was in last December.
 

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
I also offer crickets not only mealworms, I got her from petsmart, no she isn't doing any of that, I use a 10.0 t8 reptisun and i believe a 75 watt we went down because of her being sick we thought she was too hot she wouldn't stay out of her cool side, and her baking temps are about 100 we use the stick on thermometer, we have started using the carpet stuff we havent used sand in awhile we thought that might have been making her sick, we use calcium and reptivite and reptiboost, she is about a year and 2 months we got her she was about 2 months and that was in last December.
Staying on the cool side can be a sign of respiratory infections. Her basking spot temps need to be raised back to normal-the low temperatures could be part of why she is not recovering well. Sick beardies need higher temps, not lower ones.
If you can, switch to dubia roaches and black soldier fly larvae instead of crickets (they are much more nutritious), and avoid mealworms until she's healthy again. They can get stuck in her digestive tract and cause further complications. Sand is dangerous and unnatural for them and shouldn't be used. Switch her substrate over to paper towel, it's more sanitary than the carpet and is good for sick beardies. When she recovers you can use tile, non-adhesive shelf liner, or a sand and topsoil mixture.
The stick on needs to be replaced with a digital thermometer (the stick-ons can be off by as much as 20 degrees). You can get them for $8 each at pet stores.

Parasites and/or an infection are possibly behind her health issues. A vet can get her tested for problems and give her medicine. Hope your beardie gets better soon!
 

Beardielove363

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
84
Staying on the cool side can be a sign of respiratory infections. Her basking spot temps need to be raised back to normal-the low temperatures could be part of why she is not recovering well. Sick beardies need higher temps, not lower ones.
If you can, switch to dubia roaches and black soldier fly larvae instead of crickets (they are much more nutritious), and avoid mealworms until she's healthy again. They can get stuck in her digestive tract and cause further complications. Sand is dangerous and unnatural for them and shouldn't be used. Switch her substrate over to paper towel, it's more sanitary than the carpet and is good for sick beardies. When she recovers you can use tile, non-adhesive shelf liner, or a sand and topsoil mixture.
The stick on needs to be replaced with a digital thermometer (the stick-ons can be off by as much as 20 degrees). You can get them for $8 each at pet stores.

Parasites and/or an infection are possibly behind her health issues. A vet can get her tested for problems and give her medicine. Hope your beardie gets better soon!
She was already at the vet and she had all her prescribed medications she was better for a bit but only like a month then got worse than before and she refuses to hunt so we have to kind of force feed her. I will try the paper towels.
 

Beardielove363

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
84
Staying on the cool side can be a sign of respiratory infections. Her basking spot temps need to be raised back to normal-the low temperatures could be part of why she is not recovering well. Sick beardies need higher temps, not lower ones.
If you can, switch to dubia roaches and black soldier fly larvae instead of crickets (they are much more nutritious), and avoid mealworms until she's healthy again. They can get stuck in her digestive tract and cause further complications. Sand is dangerous and unnatural for them and shouldn't be used. Switch her substrate over to paper towel, it's more sanitary than the carpet and is good for sick beardies. When she recovers you can use tile, non-adhesive shelf liner, or a sand and topsoil mixture.
The stick on needs to be replaced with a digital thermometer (the stick-ons can be off by as much as 20 degrees). You can get them for $8 each at pet stores.

Parasites and/or an infection are possibly behind her health issues. A vet can get her tested for problems and give her medicine. Hope your beardie gets better soon!
Also it's not the stickers they are velcro on
 

HoomanSlave

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
Messages
691
Location
Hogwarts
She was already at the vet and she had all her prescribed medications she was better for a bit but only like a month then got worse than before and she refuses to hunt so we have to kind of force feed her. I will try the paper towels.
Only force feed if a vet recommends it. She may have gotten worse again because of the low basking temps maing the issue come back or making it worse. A second visit is essential now, whatever she has may be deadly. If you have other animals in the same room as her remove her from the room to be safe, entire collections of reptiles can die from a single sick animal.
 

Beardielove363

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
84
We dont have the money
Only force feed if a vet recommends it. She may have gotten worse again because of the low basking temps maing the issue come back or making it worse. A second visit is essential now, whatever she has may be deadly. If you have other animals in the same room as her remove her from the room to be safe, entire collections of reptiles can die from a single sick animal.
We don't have the money right now to take her to the vet we had to sell quite a few family collectables to take her the first time. And I dont have the room to move the other animals into that has the same amount of heating and natural light.
 
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