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Worried about his condition

bigwill585

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
3
Hello all. I recently acquired a bearded dragon and have concerns for his health. We have had him for about 3 days. All I really know about him is he was found abandon in a house with two others and was the only one surviving. The person that found him has had him for about a year. He doesn’t seem to have much strength. Shakes a lot when moving and can’t really lift himself up much. I’ve done a lot of research. I’m guessing it’s a calcium deficiency but wanted to get opinions. All I’ve been able to get him to eat is a few meal worms. Won’t even touch the veggies. I am trying to give him time to adjust aswell since we just got him but I think he has other issues. He came with a dual fixture with one uvb light and one basking bulb. I replaced the bulbs and added another uvb light to give more light. Picture of his setup is below. It’s basically how we got him. Bought some things but was told to wait till he adjust before I change his setup around. Any help is appreciated. I’d like to give this dude a better life than he has had so far. Thanks!
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
Hello all. I recently acquired a bearded dragon and have concerns for his health. We have had him for about 3 days. All I really know about him is he was found abandon in a house with two others and was the only one surviving. The person that found him has had him for about a year. He doesn’t seem to have much strength. Shakes a lot when moving and can’t really lift himself up much. I’ve done a lot of research. I’m guessing it’s a calcium deficiency but wanted to get opinions. All I’ve been able to get him to eat is a few meal worms. Won’t even touch the veggies. I am trying to give him time to adjust aswell since we just got him but I think he has other issues. He came with a dual fixture with one uvb light and one basking bulb. I replaced the bulbs and added another uvb light to give more light. Picture of his setup is below. It’s basically how we got him. Bought some things but was told to wait till he adjust before I change his setup around. Any help is appreciated. I’d like to give this dude a better life than he has had so far. Thanks!
Bless you for taking him in---- first coil UVB's are NO good and inadequate -- you need a long tube fixture immediately-- I am going to post some links for things that are crucial to his health --- I dont see any thermometers in the tank - you need 2 of them one for surface basking temps 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- your dragon will not eat w/ out proper UVB and basking temps as of right now hes going thru relocation stress so his appetite will come in time but your husbandry must be on par --- so lets get the correct temps in the tank and UVB--- what kind of screen is on the tank ? a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type--- as far as the shaking and weakness that is MBD starting --- we need to get the correct UVB or he will get worse --- I am surprised hes made it this far to be honest ---
here are links to good UVB's
this one comes w/ a 5.0 bulb you want the Reptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb I will post a link
24" https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output-terrarium-hood?variant=40651
22" https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-100-uvb-high-output-bulbs?variant=40630
this one can be found at Pet Smart if you have one or order on line
24 watt you want the 12% bulb https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...v-b-kit-65058.html?cgid=500114&fmethod=Browse
or this one you will need to change out the bulb in the fixture the Reptisun I posted above works for this fixture
you want the 2 ft or 24" fixture https://hydrobuilder.com/sunblaster-nanotech-t5-ho-fixture-with-6400k-lamp.html
you need 2 of these https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-digital-thermometer-for-terrariums
you want a digital probe hygrometer https://dubiaroaches.com/products/exo-terra-digital-hygrometer?_pos=1&_sid=ac857912b&_ss=r place the probe on the back center wall of the tank --- analogs are not accurate - I have one in my tank and this morning it was reading 55% humidity while my digital was 41% -- so it was way off -- optimal humidity is 40-50% nothing under 20% or over 70%-- I am posting a nutrition website ignore the kale info its outdated http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
you want him on a good staple insect dust w/ calcium D3 ONCE per feeding--lightly coat them-- he needs insects 2-3 times per week for now - once you get that UVB changed out I am hoping the shaking stops and weakness -- the UVB is what helps the dragon absorb / synthesize the calcium hes getting --- I would get him on some dubia roaches and stop the meal worms those are treat worms -- www.dubiaroaches.com - get yourself a 10 gallon aquarium get some dubia food and dubia crystals and feed them what your feeding the dragon - no carrots to both feed one or the other too much Vit A--- you can get some super worms for treats horn worms for treats they are a good hydrating worm and usually grow real fast - I have another website for horn worms and super worms - but the supers from this website have been out they have the best supers -- https://flukerfarms.com/crickets-live-feeder-insects/
https://www.hornworms.com/ you can try this website for all 3 that I mentioned -- I havent ordered from here for awhile --- please ask questions and I will help -- please let me know when you get the UVB I will help you get it placed for the tank - it will depend on the screen as far as where it needs to go distance and placement
 

bigwill585

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
3
Bless you for taking him in---- first coil UVB's are NO good and inadequate -- you need a long tube fixture immediately-- I am going to post some links for things that are crucial to his health --- I dont see any thermometers in the tank - you need 2 of them one for surface basking temps 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- your dragon will not eat w/ out proper UVB and basking temps as of right now hes going thru relocation stress so his appetite will come in time but your husbandry must be on par --- so lets get the correct temps in the tank and UVB--- what kind of screen is on the tank ? a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type--- as far as the shaking and weakness that is MBD starting --- we need to get the correct UVB or he will get worse --- I am surprised hes made it this far to be honest ---
here are links to good UVB's
this one comes w/ a 5.0 bulb you want the Reptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb I will post a link
24" https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output-terrarium-hood?variant=40651
22" https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-100-uvb-high-output-bulbs?variant=40630
this one can be found at Pet Smart if you have one or order on line
24 watt you want the 12% bulb https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...v-b-kit-65058.html?cgid=500114&fmethod=Browse
or this one you will need to change out the bulb in the fixture the Reptisun I posted above works for this fixture
you want the 2 ft or 24" fixture https://hydrobuilder.com/sunblaster-nanotech-t5-ho-fixture-with-6400k-lamp.html
you need 2 of these https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-digital-thermometer-for-terrariums
you want a digital probe hygrometer https://dubiaroaches.com/products/exo-terra-digital-hygrometer?_pos=1&_sid=ac857912b&_ss=r place the probe on the back center wall of the tank --- analogs are not accurate - I have one in my tank and this morning it was reading 55% humidity while my digital was 41% -- so it was way off -- optimal humidity is 40-50% nothing under 20% or over 70%-- I am posting a nutrition website ignore the kale info its outdated http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
you want him on a good staple insect dust w/ calcium D3 ONCE per feeding--lightly coat them-- he needs insects 2-3 times per week for now - once you get that UVB changed out I am hoping the shaking stops and weakness -- the UVB is what helps the dragon absorb / synthesize the calcium hes getting --- I would get him on some dubia roaches and stop the meal worms those are treat worms -- www.dubiaroaches.com - get yourself a 10 gallon aquarium get some dubia food and dubia crystals and feed them what your feeding the dragon - no carrots to both feed one or the other too much Vit A--- you can get some super worms for treats horn worms for treats they are a good hydrating worm and usually grow real fast - I have another website for horn worms and super worms - but the supers from this website have been out they have the best supers -- https://flukerfarms.com/crickets-live-feeder-insects/
https://www.hornworms.com/ you can try this website for all 3 that I mentioned -- I havent ordered from here for awhile --- please ask questions and I will help -- please let me know when you get the UVB I will help you get it placed for the tank - it will depend on the screen as far as where it needs to go distance and placement
I appreciate the response! It has a mesh top on it. I do have two thermometers in it, just hard to see with there location but I was planning on upgrading to digital ones bc im not so sure they are reading currently. When we got him, they were reading around 70 with them on so I replaced the bulbs and added the fixture and now they read 80. I’ll definitely upgrade to the tube fixture asap. I did get the roaches but couldn’t get him to go for them. Figured like you said he was adjusting to the environment. Was going to pickup a bunch of fresh veggies after work today for him. What would you recommend? I see tons of different answers online. I really appreciate the help!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
I appreciate the response! It has a mesh top on it. I do have two thermometers in it, just hard to see with there location but I was planning on upgrading to digital ones bc im not so sure they are reading currently. When we got him, they were reading around 70 with them on so I replaced the bulbs and added the fixture and now they read 80. I’ll definitely upgrade to the tube fixture asap. I did get the roaches but couldn’t get him to go for them. Figured like you said he was adjusting to the environment. Was going to pickup a bunch of fresh veggies after work today for him. What would you recommend? I see tons of different answers online. I really appreciate the help!
Look at the nutrition website I posted for you --- it will give you ideas of staple food etc turnipgreens collards mustard or kale are good staple greens mixed w/ squash like yellow zucchini or butternut-- gr and red pepper those can cause watery stools if fed too much - shredded raw sweet potato is a good fiber to keep him regular - roaches love those-- fruit on occasion -another good staple is dandelion greens and dandelions picked out the wild including the stem but it must be w/ out any fertilizer -- weed killer on it -- please get the digital probe thermometers you need those to determine if your getting your basking spot too hot -- those are a must -- your getting ambient temps w/ the stick ons --- you need a probe placed on the hammock to get correct surface basking temps - put where he sits -- it needs to be 95-100 - you dont need to leave it there but spot check it every 2 weeks or so --- he needs that temp to start digestion -- you said a mesh for screen is it a fine mesh or a wide hole type?
 

bigwill585

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
3
Look at the nutrition website I posted for you --- it will give you ideas of staple food etc turnipgreens collards mustard or kale are good staple greens mixed w/ squash like yellow zucchini or butternut-- gr and red pepper those can cause watery stools if fed too much - shredded raw sweet potato is a good fiber to keep him regular - roaches love those-- fruit on occasion -another good staple is dandelion greens and dandelions picked out the wild including the stem but it must be w/ out any fertilizer -- weed killer on it -- please get the digital probe thermometers you need those to determine if your getting your basking spot too hot -- those are a must -- your getting ambient temps w/ the stick ons --- you need a probe placed on the hammock to get correct surface basking temps - put where he sits -- it needs to be 95-100 - you dont need to leave it there but spot check it every 2 weeks or so --- he needs that temp to start digestion -- you said a mesh for screen is it a fine mesh or a wide hole type?
Its a fine mesh. I must’ve missed the nutrition website. I’ll definitely check it out. I appreciate it!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,873
Its a fine mesh. I must’ve missed the nutrition website. I’ll definitely check it out. I appreciate it!
Ok when the uvb comes it will need to go inside the tank or unobstructed so you could cut the screen so nothing is blocking it - you need a piece of basking decor directly under the uvb 12-15 inches-screens block 30% of the rays and we want him getting full rays
 

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