WHAT DO I DO?

[Germ]

You will also find that using lower sided feeding dishes will help, making it easier to see it's food without climbing. A Jar lid works really well to start out.

Example of a Basic Setup: Showing the recommended Basic requirements, proper Temperatures & the points at which they should be measured from, in Red & the optional choices that are actually used in this particular example enclosure, in Black.​

Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz25pdBDkkf​

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

Beating to the punch by Germ once again..lol One of the great things about the BDF...ask a guestion and a race to get you the help you need always begins

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[FRANKTHETANK]

Alright I'll have to go in the morning to get all that stuff but as of right now how much do I feed the guy

 

[Germ]

A general rule of thumb is all the Live Prey it will eat in 10-15 minutes per feeding 2-3 times a day. A small amount of fresh greens should always be made available to it whether it eats them or not, so they are there when they choose to test them out. Generally better to feed the greens first thing in the morning after the lights have been on for an hour or so if possible, then the live prey a little later.

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

​

Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz25pqdZRo6​

You will also find a very invaluable tool to have is an electronic timer to control the lights. BDs should have a consistent Day\Night schedule. 12-14 hrs on, off for the rest, at the same time of the day, every day. I have found over the years that 12\12 works well for them. It also serves to control the lights when you are not available to be there on time to turn them on or off.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

As far as feeding crickets you can feed him as many as he will eat in 10-15 minutes per feeding...I would not feed him an hour before bedtime to give him time to start digesting...also make sure to remove all crickets live or dead if any that he hasnt eating...live ones left after lights out will disturb his sleep and can actually nibble on him.
After his lights come on in the morning offer him his greens about an hour later and then you can offer his first live prey an hour or two after that...it is also a good idea to offer some fresh greens later in the day too...the greens can be left in his enclosure all day because he may be a grazer instead of a gobbler

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

For the sake.of preventing double.postin same.info Im.going to bow out...Frank you are in excellent hands with Germ helping you
Have a great evening!

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[FRANKTHETANK]

I've never seen an animal so intent on eating live prey until I got little "Tank". Where would u suppose I could get a digital thermometer and a ReptiSun 10.0 UV florescent light

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

You can find the ReptiSun 10.0 at PetsMart or many other Pet Stores...ReptiGlo 10.0 is another one you can look for if cant find ReptiSun.
Glo is Exoterra brand and Sun is ZooMed.
The ReptiSun is quite a bit more expensive and what I am currently using. But have used both and both are fine.
You can use standard undercounter mount florescent tube fixtures that can be found at hardware stores..Lowes carries an 18" fixture for 11 dollar...just be sure to get a T8 fixture...11 dollars is much better than the 30 bucks most fixtures cost at petshops.
The pet shops should have the digital thermometers with probe too...if you dont see them in the reptile section look in the aquarium section. We use both types. You can use any digital with the remote probe and may even find a deal on one at places like walmart..
We just recently purchased an aquarium.one for another of our enclosures at petsmart for 9 bucks..same one in reptile section was 15 bucks...different packaging but same thermometer.

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

Btw those lights come in 24 inch size too and Lowes sells T8 24 inch undercounter mount florescent fixtures too.
It's personal preference on what size you.use..I use 18" because it works better for my setup

"That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[FRANKTHETANK]

Ok and according to the forum I should bathe him when and how often do I give him a bath?

 

[Germ]

A weekly warm soak is fine with a daily misting until it starts to eat greens. More often if it happens to be in shed.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

http://www.reptilescanada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57026

Here is some info on bathing...it was included in the links that Germ provided to you earlier btw.
I do not know how long you have had your dragon but if brand new to your house I would personally hold off on the bathing for a few days to let your lil one get acclimated to his new enclosure and surroundings. It will be less stress on him.

Am fixing to call it a night..have a good rest of your evening

That's just my opinion..I could be wrong...I was ONCE." Comedian/Social Commentarian Dennis Miller

 

[Germ]

If you would read through the links provided to you, the majority of your questions would be answered & you would have a much better understanding of your new pet.

 

[znarfuol]

The culprit usually when it comes for bearded dragons who don't want to eat is their environment. It will take time for them to adjust and feel comfortable. Your beardie has to know that it is secured in it's environment before it even begins to eat what you offer. Give it time. But nevertheless, put some food inside it's enclosure.

Good luck!

 

[Noella]

Hi! Welcome to BDF!

 

[Pat B]

Don't listen to what petco tells you. 'Most' petstore reptile 'specialists' don't know squat about reptiles. Listen to what the wonderful and experienced people tell you on this forum. It is the best on the internet, fast answers, and someone will always help you....