Question about dusting and moving tanks

[Chubbyb]

Hey guys I just have two questions. One question is I know your supposed to feed it a couple times a day. now do you dust the crickets everytime you feed them in one day? And also my beardie is about 6.5 inches long when is it a good time to put her into a 40 breeder.. I called the breeder of my dragon and he said when she is 10" long is that ok or should i move her sooner?

 

[Germ]

It can be housed in the 40 Gal anytime. Just don't clutter it, making it hard to catch feeders. A 40 gal breeder has 4.5 square feet of floor space, my hatchlings have been house separately in their own 6 square foot enclosures (90 gal enclosures & equivalents), some since they were about 4 weeks old with no issues.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

As to the question you had about Dusting here is the answer I highlighted the parts pertaining to your question for you. If you will follow the link at the bottom you can find out a whole bunch more great info ..it's even available in a convenient printable version you can print and keep as reference.

From Basic BD Care Sheet- A Place To Start

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day

Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per

week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day

Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day

per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.



Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz26VGvXJJp

 

[BeardieBaby]

Well my beardie is not 10 inches quite yet but I just bought a new 40 gallon tank for him yesterday and I am going to put him in it tomorrow. Personally I think I would rather get him in the bigger tank while hes still younger. Just a personal preference. My beardie is about 3 months old and he has been a slower grower but I think the more space the better You can always use cardboard to break up the tank to make it smaller if it overwhelms your beardie or if you need to put cardboard to separate him in the tank to feed him. My beardie eats on the left hand side of the tank everyday and only facing a certain direction...he's hilarious! I don't use cardboard or anything but I have spoiled him way to much and he won't eat unless he's in his spot and if I help direct the crickets in his direction because when he was a baby he wasn't going after them so I helped him and now hes used to the special treatment and has become lazy LOL. If you would rather not use cardboard some online websites sell dividers that would work as well.