Ok How much does a Baby BD Eat

[blackclaw83]

I have been told so much i am comeing to this fourm for the facts now. Where i picked spaz.....yes we changed its name because of how it acts lol. they told us they feed it 2-3 crix small to med a day, and a good serving of veggies a day.

I am trying to get it on the Rep Cal Huv BD food right now, and am still doing 3 crix a day but i feel like it isnt enough. It is slowly takeing to the pellets. I dont trust my self with real veggies due in part i dont buy them for my self so i have no freaken idea what is what an i dont want to buy the wrong ones you know

 

[Germ]

If you read the links provided to you earlier, you will find the majority of your answers there. The RepCal pellets are ok, I use them myself, but I don't recommend them as a staple food. They have their purpose as a supplemental food, a daytime snack, but a young BD should have it's live prey and should receive approximately '10 times' what you are feeding it a day. You were also provided with the Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart so you can not say ...

I dont trust my self with real veggies due in part i dont buy them for my self so i have no freaken idea what is what an i dont want to buy the wrong ones you know

We don't buy dog or cat food for ourselves either, but still get it for our furry pets because that is what they need. Well young BDs need their fresh greens, once they take to them. And they need their live prey.

General feeding/supplementation schedule:

For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: Five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: Five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

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Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz1zJCtzJzp​

Amendment to Supplementation: Here is an article providing a good explanation to give an understanding on the Calcium to Phosphorous & Fat to Protien ratio ...

The main points to look out for are the fat content and the Ca: P ratio.​

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Ca: P Ratio and Reptiles​

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Many have heard about the Ca/P ratio but not many understand what it means to your reptiles. The Ca: P ratio is simply the ratio of Calcium compared to Phosphorus and so a Ca: P ratio of 1 (one or 1:1) would mean that Calcium & Phosphorus are found in equal quantities, a Ca: P ratio of 0.5 (half or 0.5:1) means that there is half the amount of Calcium than there is Phosphorus. An ideal Ca: P ratio would be around 2 (two or 2:1) as this will allow calcium to be easily absorbed.​

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So why is this important? It has to do with the way Calcium is absorbed by your reptile's intestine. For any calcium to be absorbed, there needs to be at least equal quantities of Calcium and Phosphorus in their food. If the Phosphorus is much higher, then not only will it prevent calcium being absorbed, but may even leach calcium that is already present in your reptile's body. This can lead to serious problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). When Calcium and Phosphorus are dissolved in equal quantities, it forms an insoluble salt (Calcium Phosphate) which is very difficult to absorb by your reptile's intestine. If there is a large amount of phosphorus compared to the calcium, then all the calcium will be bound by the phosphorus and none will be available for your reptile. If there is a large excess of calcium, then no phosphorus can be absorbed, which is also a vital mineral but not needed in as large a quantity as calcium. Ideally the Ca/P ratio for most vertebrates is around 2 (also written as 2:1).​

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Fat vs Protein​

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Another thing to look out for is the amount of fat compared to protein. Fat contains twice as many calories as protein, but doesn't provide any of the nutritional benefits that are gained from proteins from their amino acids which are essential for the health of any living creature. The calories from fat are often called "empty calories" in dietary terminology. Most insectivorous reptiles will receive greater benefit from a high protein/low fat diet.​

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Source - http://www.leedspetshops.co.uk​

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Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz1zJDEo18A​

A young BD should be fed as much appropriate sized Live prey (A good rule of thumb is that it be no bigger than the space between their eyes) as it will eat in a 15 minute period 2-3 times a day. BDs appetites vary from BD to BD & how active they are, some have been known to easily eat 40-50 appropriate sized 'Gutloaded' crickets a day. The BD pellets make a good 'Gutload' for the crickets. I have always limited mine to 30-35 appropriate sized crickets a day, if they wanted that many.

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TOO LITTLE? TOO MUCH? --- FOOD​

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All of this info has already been provided to you, if you would just read it over a couple of times, you would have a much better understanding of your new pet & I really recommend that you do so.​

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These are not a cheap pet to feed, particularly if you must buy your feeders at pet store prices, but you should have done your research prior to acquiring it. You have been lurking on the forum for some time now, one would think that you would have picked up on that, if you visited any other sections than the Pic & Vid one.​

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Good Luck​

 

[blackclaw83]

No need to be rude there Germ. Money dosnt matter when it comes to him. I was just asking . Due in part because i have read it here in that section that you just posted, then the shop told me one thing. I wanted some feed back on what your alls general practices were. I have read the

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/i...clusive-care-info-library.5565/#axzz1zJblh6cE

And yes i will say i still dont understand half of it but that is why i am asking questions. If i have offended anyone forgive me i have not ment to. I truely belived i had a better understanding of what this entailed but aparently i dont. I want the bestfor spaz, thats why why i get the funds for a bigger home he will have it. I was informed from a friend at college that she feeds her bd nothing but crix and pellets. But due to the fact you are telling me that isnt a really good way to go, my girl and me will be going out to get all the fixings for his salad.

I am takeing everything everyone has been telling me in. And i am thankful ....all i want is spaz healthy and happy

 

[Germ]

If it came across rude, it wasn't meant to be, just calling it as I see it for the benefit of the animal. I am not known for my tact. You have not offended anyone & hope you are not in return. I can appreciate the changes that you have already made for it's benefit.

 

[Pat B]

Please do not be offended by anyone here on this forum . There is a wealth of good and accurate information on this site. I consider this place to be the 'bible' for beardies . Ask away with your questions and concerns....that is what this forum is all about. Good luck on taking care of your beardie....the little buggers can be a lot of work but yet such an interesting little critter. I don't eat vegetable either but get them for my little Spike who doesn't really like his greens....maybe someday he will!!

 

[Alisha OK]

Just to add in something, when I feed mine (he's only a baby) I found its really good to feed him outside his enclosure in a tub or something. his appetite and his want to eat goes from 0 to 100 once i put him in there with 4 or 5 crickets!

 

[Pat B]

Just to add in something, when I feed mine (he's only a baby) I found its really good to feed him outside his enclosure in a tub or something. his appetite and his want to eat goes from 0 to 100 once i put him in there with 4 or 5 crickets!

I have read this in another post....it is something that I haven't done but I think I will get my rear in gear and try it out....

 

[blackclaw83]

i tried that. But it stressed spazz out to the point that he would not eat. So when his tail finished sheding he just started tearing into those crixs. he went from 4 to 12 or 13 a feeding. so im no longer worried lol...he is a pig.

 

[Pat B]

oh my gosh....spike has never eaten that many crix in one time. he too, has finished a pretty big shed. every time he sheds he gets 'prettier' or should I say more handsome!! lol....beardies almost stop eating when they are in a shed....interesting little boogers.

 

[Alisha OK]

Im glad mine ate 3 or 4 haha ! Im gonna let him alone for a few days now I think. I think I've been over doing it, done some tweaks to the tank (Put up a background , filling up the water dish and food dish ) Poor guy, He's probably still not used to being with me. as anxious as i am to hold him more, i realized I should start just laying my hand in the tank to let him get used to me !
Oh being a new beardie mom is tough! haha