Not eaten crickets in a week-plus!!!

[Morpheus]

Hello Bearder friends,
My Morpheus has gone through some huge changes lately, and I know the changes are probably stressing him out, but he is still not eating and I feel the initial stress time should be over.

I got him a new tank, from 55 gal to 75 gal. My tile no longer fit, so I switched to sand. He loves to bury, but he did eat it quite a bit. His first few poops with the sand were constipated and the color of sand, but the last one I saw was back to normal - smooth, brown, and effortless all over my couch.

I also decided to to put in another repti 10 bulb so now I have 2 in the tank on one side (the cool side - approx 80deg), and my normal spot light and red head light on the other side (the hot side - 100 deg). At night the red light stays on and the tank never gets below 65.

I also got him a new piece of cedar wood, but I can't imagine that would create a huge change.

He hasn't eaten crickets AT ALL for a week now, and he is looking thin thin thin. He eats his veggies more than he ever has, but when I hold up a cricket he always closes his eyes, never looks interested. When I drop them near him he doesn't react. When I put him in a separate feeding container he bumps his head against the walls wanting to get out.

After that last, smooth, healthy appearing poo he has not eaten crickets. I don't think it is impaction because that poo looked great, and it's just that he hasn't eaten since. Could it be too much UVA/B? I already want to get rid of the sand but it will be a while before I can find tile to fit. I've also noticed he remains vertical ALL the time lately, if that is any kind of clue. He is still active when I let him roam around, but I'm WORRIED!!! :-\

Tips? suggestions? Help?
Thanks,
sara

 

[Red Ink AUS]

Hi Sara,

I suggest shanging the red bulb to a CHE first to keep the temps up at night. They can sense the red through their pineal eye which can in turn disturb their sleep patterns. The temps you have the dragon on are 15oF off from what you would need if you decide to continue with the sand substrate. They need to be at least 115-120oF, but with the temps being that high the cool end needs to be at 80oF max, lower the better. The middle of the enclosure need to be at around 90-100o max. Using sand as a substrate can lead to impaction so you need to be quite accurate with the thermal gradient of your enclosure to minimise the risk (you can never get rid of risk in total).

Now, he could be going through relocation stress, it's a big change for a dragon that has never caught crickets on sand before. All new environment would take the dragon time to adjust to, specially something as big as this. He needs to "learn" to hunt on sand. As you pointed out he has eaten some already which may have put him of hunting on it or eating the crickets. If he is eating the salads then i would not be to worried of him starving. I do suggest however that the food bowl be placed on a large tile where cross contamination of sand into the veggies is minimised.

 

[egg 80]

now if someone can correct me on this i know its right about snakes and i know you gotta be careful with pine with beardies but with snakes cedar wood has the same affect as pine and can cause probs with their resperation due to the scent and sap that comes from the wood be careful when using woods around you reps
paul

 

[renich]

Good catch, Paul. Cedar and pine are toxic to bearded dragons too. The heat from the viv's lights allow fumes to be released from the wood. I would remove your cedar piece of wood ASAP.

I also agree to remove the red light. He is not getting proper sleep.

Sand is doable for adults as long as you are on top of it. I've used sand in the past and was very happy when I switched to slate. Much cleaner and healthier for the bearded dragon. Sand can harbor bacteria, which can cause issues for your dragon. You may want to consider getting new slate or tile to fit the new viv.

 

[zebraflavencs]

Hello Bearder friends,


I also decided to to put in another repti 10 bulb so now I have 2 in the tank on one side (the cool side - approx 80deg),

Could it be too much UVA/B?

I already want to get rid of the sand but it will be a while before I can find tile to fit.

I've also noticed he remains vertical ALL the time lately, if that is any kind of clue. He is still active when I let him roam around, but I'm WORRIED!!! :-\

Tips? suggestions? Help?
Thanks,
sara

A few things I'd like to offer suggestions/thoughts on.

*2 sources of uvb in the same place isn't such a great idea... you are onto something there... Now if those two were placed side by side, across the tank length, you would be just fine. Yes a dragon Can indeed get too much UVB.*

*Use the old tile, but use the decorations in the tank to "hide" the gaps... I'll assume that the issue is with the width of the tank. Butt the old ones up to the front of the tank, and there is your coverage.*

* The vertical could be a result of too much uvb. Remove one of the bulbs and replace that with an ordinary shop tube... Results should be quick.*

Hope these suggestions help out !
Janie

 

[Morpheus]

It was the Cedar. I took it out after reading about the respiratory problems and just over 24 hours later he ate about 40 crickets!!! That was the last thing that I would have blamed. Good for you for knowing such useful trivia about reptile respiratory systems

As far as the red night light - He usually sleeps hidden from it. Also, I am a night shift worker and on my nights off he is subjected to my overhead lights anyway. I will consider the ceramic heat emitter but I selfishly also like the red glow.

I think the sand is aesthetically pleasing, but looking at his poos I know he needs his tiles back. And per the question of sand in his food, his food is on an elevated platform above his hide. It has not been a problem thus far.

I have another question about water. I have NEVER seen Morph drink water, or even go near his little water dish. It seems more like a cricket hang-out. Is he actually drinking it? Would the baths alone suffice for hydration?

Thanks again for the help! Cedar... wow...

 

[corrine]

Keeping a water dish is not necessary as long as you're bathing him enough he'll do fine without it

 

[renich]

I agree with Corrine. Water dishes are not necessary if you are giving regular baths. You can also mist your dragon daily with a water bottle. Also, a lot of their water comes from the veggies that they eat.