My Baby Bearded Dragon Won’t Eat at all

[BabyNoodle]

We recently got Noodle from petsmart. We asked what Noodle was eating before. They said he was eating crickets and mealworms, crickets can be dangerous and I also didn’t want them in my house so we got the exact mealworms they were feeding it and bought freeze dried crickets that they said they fed him from time to time. The problem is, he won’t eat them. Not one nibble. So, I was pushing them for him for a couple of days, nope. Changed from live to dead mealworms, no. I was getting desperate so I bought him some silkworms, nope. Roaches? Nope. I’ve tried seemingly everything. I have ordered some bsfl (black soilder fly larvae.) He eats his greens just not his bugs. We made him quail eggs because he wasn’t getting any protein, he like took one bite and didnt eat them again. Any tips to get him to eat his bugs or a protein or protein powder I can give him? He hasn’t had any proteins besides that 1 bite of egg in 2 weeks. He’s pooping, he’s eating his greens, his temperatures are outstanding. He’s completely healthy looking. Nothing visibly wrong. All the signs and more of a health dragon.

 

[Sadie]

We recently got Noodle from petsmart. We asked what Noodle was eating before. They said he was eating crickets and mealworms, crickets can be dangerous and I also didn’t want them in my house so we got the exact mealworms they were feeding it and bought freeze dried crickets that they said they fed him from time to time. The problem is, he won’t eat them. Not one nibble. So, I was pushing them for him for a couple of days, nope. Changed from live to dead mealworms, no. I was getting desperate so I bought him some silkworms, nope. Roaches? Nope. I’ve tried seemingly everything. I have ordered some bsfl (black soilder fly larvae.) He eats his greens just not his bugs. We made him quail eggs because he wasn’t getting any protein, he like took one bite and didnt eat them again. Any tips to get him to eat his bugs or a protein or protein powder I can give him? He hasn’t had any proteins besides that 1 bite of egg in 2 weeks. He’s pooping, he’s eating his greens, his temperatures are outstanding. He’s completely healthy looking. Nothing visibly wrong. All the signs and more of a health dragon.

First lets go over the lighting and basking temps--- these two things are the MOST important thing in that tank --- NO coils for UVB's and basking temps need to be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer --- NO colored bulbs please --- what size tank is he in ? I am so glad hes eating his veggies ---

 

[BabyNoodle]

First lets go over the lighting and basking temps--- these two things are the MOST important thing in that tank --- NO coils for UVB's and basking temps need to be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer --- NO colored bulbs please --- what size tank is he in ? I am so glad hes eating his veggies ---

His basking temps are 100-110 f. He has uvb that isn’t coiled. He doesn’t have any colored bulbs. He’s in a 40 gallon since he’s only a baby and I plan on upgrading once he’s full grown to a 70 gallon.

 

[Sadie]

His basking temps are 100-110 f. He has uvb that isn’t coiled. He doesn’t have any colored bulbs. He’s in a 40 gallon since he’s only a baby and I plan on upgrading once he’s full grown to a 70 gallon.

what UVB are you using and how are you getting the basking temps NO stick ons they are inaccurate -- I need to know the UVB so I can help you place it correctly --- he wont eat at all if this is not correct --- he will go thru relocation stress but he should be eating something --

 

[BabyNoodle]

He has bulbs, they aren’t coils but these are the ones https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Sunbathe-Lizard-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B083DGWJ94. I’m using a temperature gun and digital zoo med thermometers. He is eating his greens but not his bugs. He did surprising well for relocating. Just still won’t eat his bugs. For now I crushed up the freeze dried insects and mixed it into his food to get him proteins, even if it’s not a lot.

what UVB are you using and how are you getting the basking temps NO stick ons they are inaccurate -- I need to know the UVB so I can help you place it correctly --- he wont eat at all if this is not correct --- he will go thru relocation stress but he should be eating something --

 

[Sadie]

He has bulbs, they aren’t coils but these are the ones https://www.amazon.com/Spectrum-Sunbathe-Lizard-Reptiles-Amphibians/dp/B083DGWJ94. I’m using a temperature gun and digital zoo med thermometers. He is eating his greens but not his bugs. He did surprising well for relocating. Just still won’t eat his bugs. For now I crushed up the freeze dried insects and mixed it into his food to get him proteins, even if it’s not a lot.

Ok that UVB/ basking bulb I have never heard of so before he starts not eating all together I am going to recommend a different UVB--- these are the best on the market at this time so I would like for you to get this UVB a 24" fixture w/ reflector and a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 --- how tall is your 40 gallon is it 18" high? I dont know a thing about that bulb you have now so I would also like for you to get a bright white basking bulb --- w/ not knowing the bulb or ever even heard of it its best to stay something thats known and that is good --- that is so odd hes not eating any of the staple feeders you have offered - I am wondering if its the bulb --- they will not eat w/ out proper UVB and being hes eating the greens and not the bugs has thrown me off --- but I would change out your UVB -- the correct UVB may change everything -- they need the UVB to digest the calcium that hes ingesting and beings hes not ingesting it at all tell me hes probably not getting enough UVB -- let me know if you need help finding the fixture --- you can try your pet stores and buying the 24" fixture will go right into that next tank you get -- https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html this place sells out of them very FAST
this bulb
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-12-uvb-t5-reptile-bulb.html 22" this is a great bulb they are currently out of the Reptisun --- I have used both -- please let me know what you plan to do ---- I need to help you get them properly placed in the tank

 

[BabyNoodle]

Ok that UVB/ basking bulb I have never heard of so before he starts not eating all together I am going to recommend a different UVB--- these are the best on the market at this time so I would like for you to get this UVB a 24" fixture w/ reflector and a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 --- how tall is your 40 gallon is it 18" high? I dont know a thing about that bulb you have now so I would also like for you to get a bright white basking bulb --- w/ not knowing the bulb or ever even heard of it its best to stay something thats known and that is good --- that is so odd hes not eating any of the staple feeders you have offered - I am wondering if its the bulb --- they will not eat w/ out proper UVB and being hes eating the greens and not the bugs has thrown me off --- but I would change out your UVB -- the correct UVB may change everything -- they need the UVB to digest the calcium that hes ingesting and beings hes not ingesting it at all tell me hes probably not getting enough UVB -- let me know if you need help finding the fixture --- you can try your pet stores and buying the 24" fixture will go right into that next tank you get -- https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html this place sells out of them very FAST
this bulb
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-12-uvb-t5-reptile-bulb.html 22" this is a great bulb they are currently out of the Reptisun --- I have used both -- please let me know what you plan to do ---- I need to help you get them properly placed in the tank

That might be why. Many bearded dragon owners that I asked said it was a great bulb if you would like a bulb for whatever reason, although I would’ve liked a bar uvb that just wasn’t an option since I couldn’t find one that didn’t cost as much as the tank itself.

 

[Sadie]

That might be why. Many bearded dragon owners that I asked said it was a great bulb if you would like a bulb for whatever reason, although I would’ve liked a bar uvb that just wasn’t an option since I couldn’t find one that didn’t cost as much as the tank itself.

I don't know of anyone using that bulb so I can only recommend what I know works- did you look at pangeas website?

 

[Julee1971]

We recently got Noodle from petsmart. We asked what Noodle was eating before. They said he was eating crickets and mealworms, crickets can be dangerous and I also didn’t want them in my house so we got the exact mealworms they were feeding it and bought freeze dried crickets that they said they fed him from time to time. The problem is, he won’t eat them. Not one nibble. So, I was pushing them for him for a couple of days, nope. Changed from live to dead mealworms, no. I was getting desperate so I bought him some silkworms, nope. Roaches? Nope. I’ve tried seemingly everything. I have ordered some bsfl (black soilder fly larvae.) He eats his greens just not his bugs. We made him quail eggs because he wasn’t getting any protein, he like took one bite and didnt eat them again. Any tips to get him to eat his bugs or a protein or protein powder I can give him? He hasn’t had any proteins besides that 1 bite of egg in 2 weeks. He’s pooping, he’s eating his greens, his temperatures are outstanding. He’s completely healthy looking. Nothing visibly wrong. All the signs and more of a health dragon.

We rescue & rehome. Please DONOT feed any bottled or dried food ever. Also NO mealworms they impact them & destroy their tummy. Amd any other items eggs, larvae wtc those are not a staple protein at all. Only dubia roaches & crickets. Crickets are NOT dangerous they are the best feeders alongside dubia roaches. When he turns a year old u can do super worms 10/day if u want, not now or it will Destroy his tummy it’s only for adults. U have to give him crickets or small Dubia roaches u have to feed 4-5 times a day the protein u feed for 10min; feed till he stops eating & at the same times everyday if u can then when he’s over 3mnths old 3-4 times a day the proteins. He needs them for his bones & to survive. U place the crickets in a big ziplock bag, shake with calcium powder REPCAL 4 times per week once/day which slows the crickets down and Beardie needs the calcium and train him to eat from inside the bag that way crickets don’t get all over the cage. Also crickets should not be bigger than the space between his 2eyes. Also a fresh bowl twice a day on the cold side of veggies/greens. The best amd everyday ones are:, mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, snap peas, butternut squash, and yellow squash. Blueberries, mangoes and papaya 1-2 times a week. Those are the Everday greens and veggies 2-3 of each a day. Never do spinach or kale/carrots I wouldn’t do eaither.

 

[HoomanSlave]

We rescue & rehome. Please DONOT feed any bottled or dried food ever. Also NO mealworms they impact them & destroy their tummy. Amd any other items eggs, larvae wtc those are not a staple protein at all. Only dubia roaches & crickets. Crickets are NOT dangerous they are the best feeders alongside dubia roaches. When he turns a year old u can do super worms 10/day if u want, not now or it will Destroy his tummy it’s only for adults. U have to give him crickets or small Dubia roaches u have to feed 4-5 times a day the protein u feed for 10min; feed till he stops eating & at the same times everyday if u can then when he’s over 3mnths old 3-4 times a day the proteins. He needs them for his bones & to survive. U place the crickets in a big ziplock bag, shake with calcium powder REPCAL 4 times per week once/day which slows the crickets down and Beardie needs the calcium and train him to eat from inside the bag that way crickets don’t get all over the cage. Also crickets should not be bigger than the space between his 2eyes. Also a fresh bowl twice a day on the cold side of veggies/greens. The best amd everyday ones are:, mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, snap peas, butternut squash, and yellow squash. Blueberries, mangoes and papaya 1-2 times a week. Those are the Everday greens and veggies 2-3 of each a day. Never do spinach or kale/carrots I wouldn’t do eaither.

1. Kale and carrots are both fine to feed. Carrots can be offered 1-2 times a week because of their sugar content. They contain vitamin A in the form of beta carotene, which the body stores until it is ready to use it. There is no chance of vitamin A toxicity. Kale does not have high amounts of oxalates, and it contains many essential vitamins other greens do not have. https://news.medill.northwestern.edu/chicago/kale-sheds-bum-rap-on-kidney-stones/ https://www.healwithfood.org/articles/oxalates-kale-spinach.php https://oxalate.org/
2. Crickets are far from ideal feeders. They're noisy, they bite, they're expensive, and they carry parasites. Dubia/discoid/red runner roaches are better staples. Black soldier fly larvae are an excellent staple. They're soft bodied and very nutritious, unlike crickets. Superworms are not good staples, they're high in phosphorus and addictive. They're best as treats, and only a few should be offered every week. Silkworms, BSFL, and dubias and other roaches are all ahead of crickets in terms of nutrition content, lifespan, and care requirements.
3. Canned foods can be offered on occasion, they just shouldn't be a staple because they lack the nutritional value and enrichment provided by live feeders. Canned food is great supplement if a certain live feeder is illegal in your area, if you run out of feeders, or just to add some variety to the diet. The same goes for powder mixes.https://pethelpful.com/reptiles-amphibians/cannedprey