I did tiles on my Zen Habitat. I didn't get Smooth tiles, I got ones with some roughness to them. Grouted between them to prevent any debris, parasites, etc. Just makes for a cleaner space.
I also sealed around the perimeter with acrylic latex.
I did tiles on my Zen Habitat. I didn't get Smooth tiles, I got ones with some roughness to them. Grouted between them to prevent any debris, parasites, etc. Just makes for a cleaner space.
I also sealed around the perimeter with acrylic latex.
They're safe. I did my research.I’m not familiar with products for sealing just Google or ask a Breeder if it’s safe![]()
What size tiles are they? They look so nice!I did tiles on my Zen Habitat. I didn't get Smooth tiles, I got ones with some roughness to them. Grouted between them to prevent any debris, parasites, etc. Just makes for a cleaner space.
I also sealed around the perimeter with acrylic latex.
I did not recommend the repticarpet- it is a pain to keep clean I agree but it is up to them if they want to use it--- they could also go w/ some textured NON adhesive shelf liner-- on the other part if they want toSadie: Repticarpet is NOT sanitary & hard to keep clean; unless u are washing it in hot water after every poop. Google “Coccidia” it’s deadly & Beardies can get it very easily from unclean habitats; it requires a vet & a lot of burning & cleaning for up to 2mnths; petco is notorious for selling Beardies with Coccidia & a lot that we rescued had it & we cleared it up & that’s speaking from someone (myself) who is super super OCD. Leave the tiles I. Their if u want & dotm seal them just spray with a good safe pretzel cleaner theres a few brands that are safe/good; order from Amazon.
You can use some cardboard or particle board and do half the tank - I put blaze in the 4x2x2 and he was fine-- he basically used the basking side and middle of tank for the first month or two then he started to explore the tank--- he too was around 3 months old--- it's up to you - you can see how his behavior is if he looks or acts extremely stressed out then you can partition it off-Thanks everyone for your help. I keep researching every day....
so the vivarium is going to be 4ft x 2ft x 2ft. I’ve seen some people say it’s too big for a 3month old beardie, some have said they have no issues.
if I have issues with stress,
How would I partition the viv? What size would I make the viv? Would I readjust the position of bulbs? What material type would be best to partition?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right!![]()
That makes me feel much more at ease. I’ll give that a go but get some particle board just in case.You can use some cardboard or particle board and do half the tank - I put blaze in the 4x2x2 and he was fine-- he basically used the basking side and middle of tank for the first month or two then he started to explore the tank--- he too was around 3 months old--- it's up to you - you can see how his behavior is if he looks or acts extremely stressed out then you can partition it off-
No I had my tank set up just as is now-- just have your bulbs correctly set up for the basking temps- which mine the basking is on top of screen and the UVB is inside the tank T 5 w/ distance of the 12-15 inches - at the time I was using the Arcadia 14% which was strapped to the top w/ distance of 17-18 inches w/ basking decor underneath- I have since gone to the Reptisun T 5 and also the Arcadia 12% bulb--- both dragons have done very well under all 3 if those bulbsThat makes me feel much more at ease. I’ll give that a go but get some particle board just in case.
Would that mean I’ll need to get a smaller UV bulb aswell?
Thank you, I really appreciate your help with thisNo I had my tank set up just as is now-- just have your bulbs correctly set up for the basking temps- which mine the basking is on top of screen and the UVB is inside the tank T 5 w/ distance of the 12-15 inches - at the time I was using the Arcadia 14% which was strapped to the top w/ distance of 17-18 inches w/ basking decor underneath- I have since gone to the Reptisun T 5 and also the Arcadia 12% bulb--- both dragons have done very well under all 3 if those bulbs
Your welcome keep us posted on your babyThank you, I really appreciate your help with this
I have the same size tanks; it’s good to start him off with a Big cage. He will thrive & grow; make it cozy; white terry cloth towels as the substrate, so u can remove the dirty ones rite when he poops; cleanliness is super Impt to prevent Coccidia; which is deadly, a hammock for sure, wallpaper, a climber and a woven hammock from Petsmart not the green ones. A fleece blanket, a hideaway u can get a big basking platform like a pyramid. I wud not do a partition he will be more stressed if the cage is small & he’s imprisoned with plain walls. Get posters of greenery or order wallpaper with palm trees/etc to place on both sides of the tank I leave the front open & mine watch tv; soft mellow shows they don’t like violence or loud noise & on the back wall he looks out the window. Blinds tilted a bit so sun doesn’t raise the temp even hotter; U gotta be creative. As far as bulbs I place a 50 watt on the cold side away from his food and a 100Watt clear zoomed bulb for his basking and a 50 watt behind the basking over his hammock. With a Huge tank u gotta play around with it. And of course order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB; the length u order should cover 70 percent of the tank so a 36inch; this goes along the back so the tank is light & bright & when he basks & gets his uvb & overall UVb. Remember to always replace this UVb every 6Mnths. The temp in your home matters I keep mine around 67-68 sometimes at nite or if it’s a cold day I do 69-70 but this will raise your temps in the cage so u gotta monitor and depends on how high your basking platform is. I use a high one in the winter & a lower in the summer because it gets super hot in the summer. But get a digital thermometer with a probe to get the rite temp & a digital hygrometer the humidity should be 30-40 never higher than 40. Never ever feed mealworms or pellets or bottled food & no spinach it binds to calcium. Do crickets & Dubai roaches & of course the fresh plates of greens & veggies starting now. Lots of protein as he’s growing, feed 4-5 times a day the proteins, till age 5mnths then mellow down to 3feedings per day till he’s 8-9mnths then go down to 2 feedings per day and when he’s over a year or so u can feed once per day (15-20 large crickets) or every other day or 10 large crickets per day but always the plate of veggies/greens every single day, cut up in small pieces. DONOT ever feed superworms or hornworms when they are under a year old; their digestive tract cannot handle it; rule of thumb never feed things bigger than the space between their “2” eyes. When he turns a year old, u can do superworms a few days a week & hornworms as treats but both are high In fat so in moderation. Fruits a few times a week; blueberries & papaya are the good ones. Buy repcal & sprinkle on proteins 3-4 times a week once/day & Herptivite once per week/per day on a non calcium day. Use reptisafe in all bath, drinking and spraying water; chlorine is bad for their skin & dries it out. 2baths minimum per week in lukewarm dechlorinated water for 15min minimum; do more baths when they are shedding. U can play soft meditation/spa music to relax them & u can use a soft tooth brush to brush them lightly as they are soaking. Don’t get water in their ears. Hope this helps here are some pics of my set up & the basking platform.Thanks everyone for your help. I keep researching every day....
so the vivarium is going to be 4ft x 2ft x 2ft. I’ve seen some people say it’s too big for a 3month old beardie, some have said they have no issues.
if I have issues with stress,
How would I partition the viv? What size would I make the viv? Would I readjust the position of bulbs? What material type would be best to partition?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right!![]()
Everything has now been ordered. Do you use a Hygrometer to keep track of humidity?Your welcome keep us posted on your baby
Hello skybugs! I've would be interested in knowing the other enclosures you mentioned. Been looking for weeks. Do you have a zen? I'm worried about the screentop with a cat & wondering if it's sturdy? I like a melamine w/screen top but read melamine isn't safe for BD? What do you think of PVC fully enclosed/no screen? Appreciate it..Ive seen this type of thing done before, these “kits” will make u spend more, the whole silver,platinum, gold thing already a scam (basicly saying “if you love your lizard you’ll spend the most money)(they’re not doing you any favors) while it may seem like a steal of a deal you’ll end up having to replace the lighting get a new tank and decor, most of the items i seen are for general lizard care , you want lizard care specifically for desert lizards. personally i just ordered a zen habitat 4x2x2 foot enclosure, theres a couple other brands that are good, if you got the money to throw at the project then id go with your gut, i bought one of these kits when i first got my beardie and over the past year I literally have thrown almost everything away (except the tank of course) Just a cautionary tale
How do you cut the slate?Please do not use wood chips- they can cause internal injuries if ingested --- here is a piece of my ceramic tile - it is slated and has some texture for traction -- I dont know why the UK and other countries use the T 8 -- here is a website to find some Arcadias https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/
Arcadias are really good bulbs ---
A couple questions-isn't your uvb all the way across the ones tank but you said only 70 percent coverage? I don't see a uvb on the second tank?I have the same size tanks; it’s good to start him off with a Big cage. He will thrive & grow; make it cozy; white terry cloth towels as the substrate, so u can remove the dirty ones rite when he poops; cleanliness is super Impt to prevent Coccidia; which is deadly, a hammock for sure, wallpaper, a climber and a woven hammock from Petsmart not the green ones. A fleece blanket, a hideaway u can get a big basking platform like a pyramid. I wud not do a partition he will be more stressed if the cage is small & he’s imprisoned with plain walls. Get posters of greenery or order wallpaper with palm trees/etc to place on both sides of the tank I leave the front open & mine watch tv; soft mellow shows they don’t like violence or loud noise & on the back wall he looks out the window. Blinds tilted a bit so sun doesn’t raise the temp even hotter; U gotta be creative. As far as bulbs I place a 50 watt on the cold side away from his food and a 100Watt clear zoomed bulb for his basking and a 50 watt behind the basking over his hammock. With a Huge tank u gotta play around with it. And of course order the Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB; the length u order should cover 70 percent of the tank so a 36inch; this goes along the back so the tank is light & bright & when he basks & gets his uvb & overall UVb. Remember to always replace this UVb every 6Mnths. The temp in your home matters I keep mine around 67-68 sometimes at nite or if it’s a cold day I do 69-70 but this will raise your temps in the cage so u gotta monitor and depends on how high your basking platform is. I use a high one in the winter & a lower in the summer because it gets super hot in the summer. But get a digital thermometer with a probe to get the rite temp & a digital hygrometer the humidity should be 30-40 never higher than 40. Never ever feed mealworms or pellets or bottled food & no spinach it binds to calcium. Do crickets & Dubai roaches & of course the fresh plates of greens & veggies starting now. Lots of protein as he’s growing, feed 4-5 times a day the proteins, till age 5mnths then mellow down to 3feedings per day till he’s 8-9mnths then go down to 2 feedings per day and when he’s over a year or so u can feed once per day (15-20 large crickets) or every other day or 10 large crickets per day but always the plate of veggies/greens every single day, cut up in small pieces. DONOT ever feed superworms or hornworms when they are under a year old; their digestive tract cannot handle it; rule of thumb never feed things bigger than the space between their “2” eyes. When he turns a year old, u can do superworms a few days a week & hornworms as treats but both are high In fat so in moderation. Fruits a few times a week; blueberries & papaya are the good ones. Buy repcal & sprinkle on proteins 3-4 times a week once/day & Herptivite once per week/per day on a non calcium day. Use reptisafe in all bath, drinking and spraying water; chlorine is bad for their skin & dries it out. 2baths minimum per week in lukewarm dechlorinated water for 15min minimum; do more baths when they are shedding. U can play soft meditation/spa music to relax them & u can use a soft tooth brush to brush them lightly as they are soaking. Don’t get water in their ears. Hope this helps here are some pics of my set up & the basking platform.
Can we see a pic please?I am using a Zoo Med 24" fixture in my 4x2x2 tanks -- you dont want a fixture the same length of the tank - they need to be able to be out of the rays w/ out hiding from them
Pretzel cleaner? I found a black rubber type thing that's used for in drawers or whatever at Target for $10. I cut it in half & put one on the bottom of tank & the other as the backdrop. Mine poops in same spot so I put paper towels in that spot & change often.Sadie: Repticarpet is NOT sanitary & hard to keep clean; unless u are washing it in hot water after every poop. Google “Coccidia” it’s deadly & Beardies can get it very easily from unclean habitats; it requires a vet & a lot of burning & cleaning for up to 2mnths; petco is notorious for selling Beardies with Coccidia & a lot that we rescued had it & we cleared it up & that’s speaking from someone (myself) who is super super OCD. Leave the tiles I. Their if u want & dotm seal them just spray with a good safe pretzel cleaner theres a few brands that are safe/good; order from Amazon.