Is my enclosure ok. Pics

[kobe24]

Hey guys I would like to welcome myself to the thread. I am joe and my fiance is angela and this is our bearded dragon marley.
I have a few questions about my setup. I am using a reptisun 10.0 uvb bulb. Is the light too close for when he gets up near it. When he gets up near it hes about 7 inches away.
Also how often should i mist him and mine dont seem to eat mealworms out of his dish, why is this? Thanks guys.

 

[kobe24]

Another one of him close up. How old do you think he is, around 6 months.

 

[kobe24]

Any help

 

[Pat B]

good morning and welcome to BDF. A couple of suggestions....I would remove the water bowl....beardies don't need them. I would use a digital thermometer with a probe....one in the basking spot and one on the cool side. And remove the greenery.....for now. When beardies are little and searching for their prey....the feeders tend to hide anywhere they can find a place. I learned the hard way and took out the vinery. The UVB needs to be closer the b ugh a screen. I don't put my mealies in the little brown bowl as Spike doesn't eat from that either. I put them in front of him and he will eat them without a problem. He is a beautiful little guy. Good luck and come back often with your questions and concerns.

 

[kobe24]

Thank u so much for your help. That was very informational. I'm going to take the suggestions you made. Thank you very much again.

 

[Germ]

Hi Joe, Angela & Marley,

To add to Pat B's good advice ...

Your broken basking branch ... I will almost bet that if you shake it out, that you will find it has a number of Crix hiding inside it. All crickets should be removed before lights out at night. Because they are nocturnal, they will hide from the light, remaining Crickets will come out at night nibble on your BD & bother it's sleep. In extreme cases will cause sores\lesions.

It appears that you have the UVB on one side & the Heat bulb on the other. Both Lights should be on the same side, covering the Basking Spot, in order for it to receive the full benefits of it, because if your temps are proper, that is where it should be spending the majority of it's time.

Misting every 3-4 days, outside of the enclosure will suffice, with a warm soak once a week. Frequency of both could be upped a bit when in shed.

Hard to tell age, different BDs grow at different rates.

Mealworms are okay as an occasional threat or change up, but are not a good staple diet. Crickets &\or Roaches are a much better choice as their staple Live Prey.

A few good links to help get you started ...

Basic BD Care Sheet - A Place To Start

Bearded Dragon --- Exclusive Care Info Library

Beautiful Dragons Nutrition Chart

Is Bearded Dragon Co-habitation a good plan?

How To Sex A Bearded Dragon

He\She's a Cutie, Good Luck

 

[kobe24]

Hey thank you soooo much that was so nice of you, Angela and Marley said thank you too.
I am going to try and tape close the places where crickets can go into and hide. We just found out that we are almost a hundred percent sure that she is a girl.
I thought that there should be a warm spot for basking and a cold place for when they dont need the heat, because it gets over a hundred degrees under the basking light.
A person told me to give her a bath every 2 to 3 days a week for 15 minutes. Would this be good for him. I will look into getting roaches but Angela said they are
disguisting lol, shes so cute just like Marley. Again thank you so much for the links as well. You are a very knowledgable person and me and Angela and Marley thank
you again.

 

[Germ]

Lighting/Heating/Humidity: Bearded dragons thrive in bright light but specifically require Ultra Violet light from the “B” spectrum. Simply this means you will need a UVB bulb to ensure their ongoing health. UVB bulbs are available in several styles, linear fluorescents, compact fluorescents or Mercury Vapour (MVB). The size and design of your setup will dictate the most appropriate style to use. UVB lighting is essential to the health of your dragon and bulbs should be replaced at least every 6-12 months or as recommended by the manufacturer. Consideration should be given if filtered through a screen or not along with distance from the bulb, when calculating the replacement time. Unless an MVB is used, you will require a second light source as a means for heat. One end of the enclosure should be equipped with a “basking” bulb & a “UVB” bulb. Generally an incandescent bulb in a domed fixture will be acceptable to provide an area where a temperature can be maintained in the 35-43C (95-110F) range.

Light/Heat should be provided 12-14 hours per day (digital timers are very inexpensive and available at any hardware store). Dragons do not require any light or additional heat source during their ”night time” hours unless your ambient room temps drop below 17C (63F). In this case, an under tank heat pad or ceramic heat emitter is recommended. Electric “heat rocks” are NOT suitable for dragons and have the potential to be harmful. Temperatures should be monitored with an accurate digital, sensor thermometer or an infrared spot type thermometer (Temp Gun). Analog or stick on thermometers are very inaccurate and highly unreliable. While the “basking” area should be maintained in the 40-43C (105-110F) range for juveniles, 35-40C (95-105F) for adults. The “cool” side of the tank should allow for temperatures in the 27-29C (80 - 85F) range. Ideally, humidity should be around the 20% – 30% range, if at all possible, Bearded Dragons will do well with slightly higher humidity, but this is what should be striven for.

Misting/Bathing: A twice weekly misting from head to tail with a fine spray mister of room temperature water helps hydration and shedding. Two or three times a month let your dragon have a bath in chest deep warm water, not too hot. Dragons seem to enjoy soaking and it may help to assist in hydration & clearing of minor impactions or constipation. Dragons will often defecate in the bath water, change the water immediately and run a fresh bath, they will only soil their water once on most occasions. Baths are ideal prior to allowing your dragon out of the enclosure as it helps to prevent "accidents". Do not leave your dragon unattended!

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Example of a Basic Setup: Showing the recommended Basic requirements, proper Temperatures & the points at which they should be measured from, in Red & the optional choices that are actually used in this particular example enclosure, in Black.​

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Read More: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/

You are all Welcome .