I'm looking to buy a dual(?) timer.

[Germ]

For the cracks & tile install ...

If you want tile, from experience, I would suggest a more nonporous tile than that of a "Natural slate/rock" tile...My custom enclosure has porous, tumbled marble...As far as cleaning goes, it was a bit of a mistake...looks amazing, doesnt clean very well for tile...

You can use whatever you please but that was just my opinion on the tile itself...as far as grout goes, there is only ONE grout that I would recommend to use in any kind of critter cage.

I have used SpectraLOCK on both of my cages now, and what can I say? If you stay on top of your cleaning, then this grout literally is stain PROOF as it advertises. It is considerably more expensive than conventional grout, at roughly $25 for what you see in the picture above, but as far as the maintenance (Never has to be sealed or resealed where as conventional grout does yearly) its totally worth the extra coin. As far as the grouting process you have to be quick with this stuff...being it is an EPOXY and not regular mortar mix, it dries considerably fast, not too fast to dry in the bucket but fast enough where you cant walk away and come back to it later.

If you have ANY questions regarding tile/grout or the tiling and grouting process feel free to ask, I hope this helps!

Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/got-the-tank-d-now-the-project.5867/#ixzz27p7B1YTZ​

You should be offering it live Prey all it will eat in 10-15 minutes 2-3 times a day, however little that may be. This way it will see them scooting & may spark it's interest. otherwise they will just hide on it during the day. You should not leave any live crix in the enclosure overnight, they are nocturnal, will come out at night bother & nibble on your BD while it is trying to sleep. Leaving them in the enclosure from one day to the next, they will use up any of the nutritional value of the gutload & just be basically an empty vessel. All live prey has to be recently gutloaded prior to feeding.

Sounds like you may be feeding your Pellets dry, this should never be done. Dry pellets use too much of the BD's moisture stores in the digestion process & can quickly lead to dehydration. Always moisten the Pellets with water or fruit juices until they swell, prior to feeding & mist them as you notice them drying out to keep them moist. The moistened pellets will also provide a good source of hydration. Not all BDs care for Pellets, I use the RepCal Bearded Dragon Food & all of my young'un like the green ones, so I moisten & use the red & Brown ones as a gutload for the Crix or roaches & it gets them anyway .

Here is a good feeding & supplementation schedule that could be used as a guideline. It was included in the links previously supplied to you.

General feeding/supplementation schedule:
For hatchlings and young juveniles (up to 2 months): Fresh greens/veg. 1-2 times daily - Live prey 2-3 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – one day per week calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For juveniles and sub-adults (2 months to sexual maturity): Fresh greens/veg 1-2 times daily - Live prey 1-2 times per day
Dusted: All Live Prey five days per week with phosphorus free calcium – One day per week with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

For adults (generally 1+ year): Fresh greens/veg 1- 2 times daily - Live prey every 2-3 days.
Dusted: Live Prey every other feeding with phosphorus free calcium - Twice per month with calcium with D3 - One day per week with a vitamin supplement such as Reptivite or Herptivite.

As there are different circumstances that may arise, this schedule is recommended only as a general guide and may be altered to accommodate individual situations. Using a tracking method of when you dust prevents unnecessary use of product and more importantly, potential harm to your dragon! With proper and effective UVB lighting, supplementation with vitamin D3 is not imperative but should be provided in small amounts. Excessive levels of oral vitamin D3 can potentially lead to the excessive absorption and utilization of calcium and/or toxicity as can the excessive use of supplements containing high levels of vitamin A. Over use of any supplement can have the potential to cause serious health problems, stick to an appropriate supplementation schedule.

Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz27pCe7wol​

Amendment to Supplementation:Here is an article providing a good explanation to give an understanding on the Calcium to Phosphorous & Fat to Protien ratio ...

The main points to look out for are the fat content and the Ca: P ratio.

Ca: P Ratio and Reptiles

Many have heard about the Ca/P ratio but not many understand what it means to your reptiles. The Ca: P ratio is simply the ratio of Calcium compared to Phosphorus and so a Ca: P ratio of 1 (one or 1:1) would mean that Calcium & Phosphorus are found in equal quantities, a Ca: P ratio of 0.5 (half or 0.5:1) means that there is half the amount of Calcium than there is Phosphorus. An ideal Ca: P ratio would be around 2 (two or 2:1) as this will allow calcium to be easily absorbed.

So why is this important? It has to do with the way Calcium is absorbed by your reptile's intestine. For any calcium to be absorbed, there needs to be at least equal quantities of Calcium and Phosphorus in their food. If the Phosphorus is much higher, then not only will it prevent calcium being absorbed, but may even leach calcium that is already present in your reptile's body. This can lead to serious problems such as MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). When Calcium and Phosphorus are dissolved in equal quantities, it forms an insoluble salt (Calcium Phosphate) which is very difficult to absorb by your reptile's intestine. If there is a large amount of phosphorus compared to the calcium, then all the calcium will be bound by the phosphorus and none will be available for your reptile. If there is a large excess of calcium, then no phosphorus can be absorbed, which is also a vital mineral but not needed in as large a quantity as calcium. Ideally the Ca/P ratio for most vertebrates is around 2 (also written as 2:1).

Fat vs Protein

Another thing to look out for is the amount of fat compared to protein. Fat contains twice as many calories as protein, but doesn't provide any of the nutritional benefits that are gained from proteins from their amino acids which are essential for the health of any living creature. The calories from fat are often called "empty calories" in dietary terminology. Most insectivorous reptiles will receive greater benefit from a high protein/low fat diet.

Source - http://www.leedspetshops.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=81]​

Read more: http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/basic-bd-care-sheet-a-place-to-start.5177/#ixzz27pCtQyHl​

​

 

[LTMets44]

1) I always soak the pellets in water before I put them down, but he never looks at them anyway (My other BD's used to love them!)

2) I never leave crickets or any food in the tank over night. I clean his food bowl at least twice a day.

(According to what you posted above, I guess I'll offer him about 5 crickets per feeding. If he eats them all, than I will increase the number until I find what his average is.)

3) I really didn't want to use grout for the edges because I was planing on taking the tiles out about once a month or so to clean the tank really good.

Do you think running a line of electrical tape around the edges would be harmful at all? (It will be easier for me to peel the tape away and apply new tape when giving the tank a full cleaning.)

 

[Germ]

I wouldn't suggest using electrical tape at all, it's glue will release when heated & leave a sticky mess. If you do not want to permanently mount the tiles, you are quite limited in options. Bouncer36 has a novel solution shown in her pic from the last POTM Contest using Janga blocks.

 

[LTMets44]

Good suggestions, but I have one more thought. Is there any type of caulk that I would be able to use? From my experience with caulk, it is pretty easy to peel off if necessary. If not, I may just go with the grout suggestion.

 

[Germ]

100% silicone ... But you have to let it cure for 24-48 hrs, depending on how thick the bead is, for the fumes to dissipate before you can re-introduce the Dragon to it.

 

[LTMets44]

Looks like I'm going with the grout (if I can find that one) or the Jenga blocks...lol

Thanks again.

 

[Germ]

There are other options for removable substrates ... Non-adhesive shelf liner, textured vinyl deck flooring, repti-carpet, etc. But with anything removable, you we will always have the problem of feeder getting under it to some extent or another. In all my enclosures, I have Textured Padded Vinyl Deck Covering\Flooring, permanently installed, contact cemented to the floor & all the edges sealed with 100% silicone to prevent seepage into the padding. It is as easy as any none particle substrate to wipe out or keep sanitary. Once they are big enough, 10+", I generally, simply put Strained Children's Washed Play Sand over top.

 

[bouncer36]

I wouldn't suggest using electrical tape at all, it's glue will release when heated & leave a sticky mess. If you do not want to permanently mount the tiles, you are quite limited in options. Bouncer36 has a novel solution shown in her pic from the last POTM Contest using Janga blocks.

Yea the jenga blocks work good but small crickets still made it through

 

[LTMets44]

I think I will just leave it as it is for now. Once Gotham gets bigger, I will be buying a bigger tank anyway. Then I will have time to prepare the tank before introducing him to it.

Thank you all.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

The answer to the eating issue is STRESS...you have had him for 7 days...it can take 10 or more days for them to acclimate to any changes in environment such as being put into a new enclosure or even just rearranging his enclosure, etc...I would give him some time to acclimate.

 

[LTMets44]

I understand that. I have been sticking to the daily routines now. Feeding twice a day. Mixing it up a little (Pellets, Crickets, Collard Greens, Kale, Mustard Greens, Waxworms). I mist him once a day now and he seems to enjoy it.

Other than that, I try not to disturb him or his environment. He seems to be happy although I can't tell for sure. But he is very active. My other BD's from years ago just used to hide all day.

 

[LTMets44]

So it turns out that I need more advice. I got the Repti Glo 10.0 Compact Desert Lamp - 26 watts bulb in the mail today. It's still just a little too long for my dual light combo. Also, I noticed that the Basking bulb is 100 watts. The temp reading on his basking area was 127 degrees when I got home.

I am going out to to buy a deeper spot light and another basking bulb. How many watts should I get for the 20 Gallon tank that Gotham is in?



The UV bulb that I got protrudes out of the fixture about a 1/2" and sits on the screen. That should be changed right? I should buy a deeper fixture?





Thanks

 

[LTMets44]

Ignore my post above. I rearranged the lights. I put the 10.0 UV bulb back in the stand alone long fixture. I put it on the right side of the tank so it faces the basking area. The basking spot light is in the middle of the tank (left of the UV).

I figured out why the thermometer was acting so funny lately. It's because the thermometer itself was sitting right under the basking light and over heating. I moved the thermometer all the way to the right of the tank, and attached the probe to the log as Germ had suggested earlier. I still have the 100 watt bulb in there because I am not sure what wattage bulb to get.

Right now the cool side reads a steady 82.5 degrees and the hot side is reading 120.6.

I am assuming that 120+ is way too hot. Should I put a 75 watt bulb in there instead.

Lately, Gotham seems very happy. He has been eating a lot more. (Veggies, Crickets, and Waxworms) He is very active and also enjoys his time basking.

Please share your opinions.

Thanks again.

 

[Germ]

I think I am understanding your arrangement. It may be better to place the long horizontal fixture across the enclosure, front to back, along side the heat fixture, with the bulk of the end portion of the UVB Bulb the as close to the basking spot as possible. I would try the 75 watt, you could always raise the basking log a bit if the temps are too low. A recent Pic would be helpful with the changes.

 

[LTMets44]

Here are some pics of the changes.

 

[Germ]

It may be better to place the long horizontal fixture across the enclosure, front to back, along side the heat fixture, with the bulk of the end portion of the UVB Bulb the as close to the basking spot as possible.

 

[LTMets44]

I see what you're saying, but it doesn't really fit well that way. Plus, the wire of the long fixture will sit up against the heat fixture and I'm thinking that would be a fire hazard.

 

[Germ]

The way it is, puts the UVB a long ways away from the Basking Spot for being mounted above a screen, won't be very effective. You may have to pull the enclosure away from the wall, turn your Long fixture around, situated for the bulk of the bulb to be closer to the Basking Spot. Or purchase the proper Dome fixture for the Bulb.

 

[LTMets44]

I think I'll just turn it sideways for now & pick up the 75 watt basking bulb. As Gotham grows, I will be looking to buy a bigger tank and I will probably like to pick up a long UV fixture that will cover the majority of the tank and put that behind the current dual dome fixture that I have now.
The Petco by me is having the $1 per gallon sale right now. I was thinking of buying the bigger tank now and storing in until he needs it. But the largest tank they have for that deal is 40 gallons and I was thinking of going bigger than that in the future.

Decisions. Decisions, Decisions.....

 

[Aleena]

An adult dragon would need the minimum of a 55 gal, a 40 gal breeder being the better choice of course, more floor space than the 55. Your average 40 gallon tank does not have the required floor space for an adult dragon, just fyi .