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Help please! (how long for him to acclimate?)

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
You don’t know how much I appreciate you helping me. I will remove the shop light today and put the regular bulb in my extra fixture just for a bit more light. Yesterday I tried to follow the schedule that the breeder gave me: salad an hour after heat and uvb on, roaches 1 1/2 hours after that (all he wants in 10 min), 2-3 superworms every other day, BSFL in afternoon (as many in 10 min). Of course that didn’t work yesterday… but should I continue to try for this schedule? I will order the vitamins today…. I have a spray vitamin with beta carotene which I use on my turtles food (made by Zilla) but it has a pic of a bearded dragon on the front..if not is there specific brand? I did move the gauge with the probe yesterday… I think the temp gun that I was using to get basking stone surface temps was off… the probe reads much lower than the gun….I had ordered everything that anywhere said I would need!…there is so much conflicting info out there!…Again, I thank you so so much.
I would reverse the BSFL feeding to first thing in the morning feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder and compliment to the dubias --- feed salad first thing in the morning w/ the BSFL on top it will lure him to the salad bowl - I would dust the insects w/ beta carotene not spray the salads hes going to eat those insects before he eats the salads that way you know hes getting the vitamins along w/ the calcium D3 on the insects --- I use Jurasivite vitamins - I didnt know they made a spray on vitamin -- your digital probe is more accurate than the IR gun please go by that temp super worms can also be used as lures to the salad bowl and I would use 1-2 every other day you dont want him hooked on them -- they are a treat worm -- and yes let him warm up first and then feed - let him eat out of the bowl w/ the BSFL for like a hr or so then add your dubias to the bowl -- start w/ like 8 of them and if he eats them all you can add more - keep adding a few at a time --
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
It depends on your screen ----- No if its a WIDE HOLE screen but it must be that type -- distance is different from inside --- if its a fine mesh like a screen door then yes it needs to be inside the tank approx 12-15 inches ---- both should be placed directly over the basking area -- your screen will block arrox 30% of those rays
Ok… I went ahead and mounted it inside over basking area down 2/3 of enclosure although my top is a wider grill type.. not mesh… I just feel better it inside. I rearranged basking area until the surface us 12 inches from light. I moved my thermometer/hygrometer with probe to the hot side and my temps there are going from 98-101. Another in the middle reading about 90 and one on cool side reading about 84. Are these acceptable temps? I bathed him this morning with warm (bottled) water with an electrolyte soak and he seemed to like it. He has not shown any visible signs of stress or anything although I’m sure he is. I offered salad with a few BFSL in it only to have him close his eyes and turn his nose. I left it in his enclosure until he moved away from it. Now I’m concerned about this: I built a back wall running about 2/3 the length… it has ledges on it that I thought he could climb and he is but he is preferring as of now to sit on a high ledge which is not directly under the uvb (uvb is in the middle and this is against the back wall) but it is closer than 12 inches from the uvb light. Is this ok for now? He’s not moving around a lot… I mean he’s very alert… I just noticed his beard suddenly turned a very bright orange … I’m not sure what or if anything that means….so, today at noon has made 3 days… I’m beginning to get a little concerned.. he hasn’t eaten, pooed or had water… but I have been dropping water on his nose often… I’m hoping the bath gave him some hydration tho. But, when should I really worry? I will continue to offer food and water of course… as often as you suggest I do.
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
I would reverse the BSFL feeding to first thing in the morning feed as many as you want they are a great staple feeder and compliment to the dubias --- feed salad first thing in the morning w/ the BSFL on top it will lure him to the salad bowl - I would dust the insects w/ beta carotene not spray the salads hes going to eat those insects before he eats the salads that way you know hes getting the vitamins along w/ the calcium D3 on the insects --- I use Jurasivite vitamins - I didnt know they made a spray on vitamin -- your digital probe is more accurate than the IR gun please go by that temp super worms can also be used as lures to the salad bowl and I would use 1-2 every other day you dont want him hooked on them -- they are a treat worm -- and yes let him warm up first and then feed - let him eat out of the bowl w/ the BSFL for like a hr or so then add your dubias to the bowl -- start w/ like 8 of them and if he eats them all you can add more - keep adding a few at a time --
Ok… I’m sorry I missed reading this..so I probably was asking things you answerd. Yes this is a spray made by Zilla vitamin supplement with beta carotene. I use it on my turtles food as he is also picky and I want him to get what he needs! I have 3 dogs, a turtle and now Charlie.. all my guys have always been picky eaters so if Charlie is then he will fit right in!! ( no, I would never let my dogs around Charlie)… I made a similar statement on another forum and got beat up about dogs and a dragon!… no, Charlie has his own room where my dogs are never allowed! I’ll use this spray until I can order the Jurasivite vitamin.
 

Skybug

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
2,283
Welcome to the forum :) cute dragon, hopefully im not answering questions already answered……U may want to cover the enclosure doors with a towel, hes gonna need at least a month to get into a proper routine, definitely only have lighting in the enclosure that’s beneficial though, (heat lamps/ uvb/uva)(leds are fine) ur humidity is absolutely fine, you dont need the water bowel, unless he gets in it or actually drinks, in my opinion no bathes for a month (you dont want him to hate you just yet lol) id recommend hand feeding and handling him ONLY in the enclosure (this will help build ur relationship) his tummy is the way to his heart , he is older so he may be able to come out of the enclosure IF hes not bolting or scared, ive attached pictures of things I and some of us use here on this site :) if u have any more questions please do ask, theres no such thing as a silly question.
 

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Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Welcome to the forum :) cute dragon, hopefully im not answering questions already answered……U may want to cover the enclosure doors with a towel, hes gonna need at least a month to get into a proper routine, definitely only have lighting in the enclosure that’s beneficial though, (heat lamps/ uvb/uva)(leds are fine) ur humidity is absolutely fine, you dont need the water bowel, unless he gets in it or actually drinks, in my opinion no bathes for a month (you dont want him to hate you just yet lol) id recommend hand feeding and handling him ONLY in the enclosure (this will help build ur relationship) his tummy is the way to his heart , he is older so he may be able to come out of the enclosure IF hes not bolting or scared, ive attached pictures of things I and some of us use here on this site :) if u have any more questions please do ask, theres no such thing as a silly question.
Thank you so much.. yes , I actually have every product you have recommended except the Arcadia hood… I got the Reptisun..Amazon did not have Arcadia in stock.. I have the T5 ho 10.0 with Reptisun fixture … he is actually not skittish at all… has no objections to me holding I’m close.. which I’m not doing often…I’m just worried about him not eating or pooing…. Today is day 3 with me.. I’ve offered salad with BFSL…offered superworms and Dubai roaches… he politely closes his eyes and looks the other way… I’ve offered with tongs and in a bowl… nothing. Before I read this I’d already given him a warm bath in an electrolyte soak which he did not seem to mind. I moved the uvb to the inside but it is 12 inches from his basking area.. I’m just so concerned that he is staying on the ledge of the background I built him which is to the side of the uvb and only about 6 inches from light but definitely not under it… is this ok for now? I’m hoping he won’t stay there when he’s acclimated. Is he ok? How long till I worry?? I’m gonna attach a photo .. I’m not turning on that fluorescent light anymore and will remove it when he’s more comfortable
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
Ok… I went ahead and mounted it inside over basking area down 2/3 of enclosure although my top is a wider grill type.. not mesh… I just feel better it inside. I rearranged basking area until the surface us 12 inches from light. I moved my thermometer/hygrometer with probe to the hot side and my temps there are going from 98-101. Another in the middle reading about 90 and one on cool side reading about 84. Are these acceptable temps? I bathed him this morning with warm (bottled) water with an electrolyte soak and he seemed to like it. He has not shown any visible signs of stress or anything although I’m sure he is. I offered salad with a few BFSL in it only to have him close his eyes and turn his nose. I left it in his enclosure until he moved away from it. Now I’m concerned about this: I built a back wall running about 2/3 the length… it has ledges on it that I thought he could climb and he is but he is preferring as of now to sit on a high ledge which is not directly under the uvb (uvb is in the middle and this is against the back wall) but it is closer than 12 inches from the uvb light. Is this ok for now? He’s not moving around a lot… I mean he’s very alert… I just noticed his beard suddenly turned a very bright orange … I’m not sure what or if anything that means….so, today at noon has made 3 days… I’m beginning to get a little concerned.. he hasn’t eaten, pooed or had water… but I have been dropping water on his nose often… I’m hoping the bath gave him some hydration tho. But, when should I really worry? I will continue to offer food and water of course… as often as you suggest I do.
Ok the probe for the hygrometer please place on the back center wall so it can read the whole tank -- The bright orange beard means he is very happy ---- He will go to that UVB when he needs it --- dragons know what they need -- those temps should be fine -- you might want to move the UVB out from the wall so its toward the middle of the tank and have your decor piece directly under it -- see if that does not change that behavior w/ the climbing thing
 

Skybug

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
2,283
I think he’s acclimating still, leave him be , put the bugs in a no escape bowel with vegg in it so they can eat too, give him a week, hes fat enough to where he can go a while without food, he looks healthy and the enclosure looks good, jus maybe put a towel over the front, I think he’s getting too much stimulation too..
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Ok the probe for the hygrometer please place on the back center wall so it can read the whole tank -- The bright orange beard means he is very happy ---- He will go to that UVB when he needs it --- dragons know what they need -- those temps should be fine -- you might want to move the UVB out from the wall so its toward the middle of the tank and have your decor piece directly under it -- see if that does not change that behavior w/ the climbing thing
Ok.. I will adjust the probe.. oh I’m so glad that bright orange means happy!!! It was very suddenly it turned so very orange.. it was very obvious! The uvb is hanging in the center of the enclosure… I rigged it up there with wire because there is nothing to hand that fixture with.. but it worked. I think what you are seeing is a plain fluorescent shop light that I put across the back because I thought the extra light would be nice but no… it’s too much light and not allowing for him to have a shadier place.. I’ve turned it off but haven’t removed as that is just going to cause a lot of unnecessary stress. There are the stones directly under the uvb at a 12 inch distance and there is the vines which also are at approximately 12 inches under it. The background is against the back as the uvb is in front. He keeps climbing up that backing where he is actually behind the uvb but I was just worried that may be too close if it’s not directly on him. I added an aloe Vera plant to the hot side to hopefully help humidity. I’m in Louisiana where we have 109% humidity all the time so I had to buy a dehumidifier.. it’s keeping the room just right and the cool side stays between 30 and 40… it’s just the hot side stays low when the temp reaches 100… and at night…is this ok… I’m keeping the temp in the room set at 75 and it is staying that temp in his enclosure… but the humidity goes up to about 43 or so… not over 45. I get up every 2 hours to make sure! I really need a good nights sleep!! Lol…. He’s worth every minute of lost sleep!… I just tried to offer him food but not having it. So… I’ll keep trying till he does… I will do a happy dance at that first bite!!! Hopefully I won’t have too many more questions and I appreciate it so very much
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
I think he’s acclimating still, leave him be , put the bugs in a no escape bowel with vegg in it so they can eat too, give him a week, hes fat enough to where he can go a while without food, he looks healthy and the enclosure looks good, jus maybe put a towel over the front, I think he’s getting too much stimulation too..
Thank you.. I’m putting a towel up now
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
Ok.. I will adjust the probe.. oh I’m so glad that bright orange means happy!!! It was very suddenly it turned so very orange.. it was very obvious! The uvb is hanging in the center of the enclosure… I rigged it up there with wire because there is nothing to hand that fixture with.. but it worked. I think what you are seeing is a plain fluorescent shop light that I put across the back because I thought the extra light would be nice but no… it’s too much light and not allowing for him to have a shadier place.. I’ve turned it off but haven’t removed as that is just going to cause a lot of unnecessary stress. There are the stones directly under the uvb at a 12 inch distance and there is the vines which also are at approximately 12 inches under it. The background is against the back as the uvb is in front. He keeps climbing up that backing where he is actually behind the uvb but I was just worried that may be too close if it’s not directly on him. I added an aloe Vera plant to the hot side to hopefully help humidity. I’m in Louisiana where we have 109% humidity all the time so I had to buy a dehumidifier.. it’s keeping the room just right and the cool side stays between 30 and 40… it’s just the hot side stays low when the temp reaches 100… and at night…is this ok… I’m keeping the temp in the room set at 75 and it is staying that temp in his enclosure… but the humidity goes up to about 43 or so… not over 45. I get up every 2 hours to make sure! I really need a good nights sleep!! Lol…. He’s worth every minute of lost sleep!… I just tried to offer him food but not having it. So… I’ll keep trying till he does… I will do a happy dance at that first bite!!! Hopefully I won’t have too many more questions and I appreciate it so very much
Your humidity is fine you dont want it below 20 optimal is 40-50% not above 70% --- get some sleep hes fine
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Your humidity is fine you dont want it below 20 optimal is 40-50% not above 70% --- get some sleep hes fine
Ok Sadie I’m more confused than ever! The breeder just text me to find out the little guy was doing… told him had a hard time with temps but thought I may have it right and told him about it… he says no, not right, temps need to be at 105-107! He says that’s surface temps!… I got blasted on a FB group when I mentioned my surface temps being 100!… I really wanna scream and pull my hair out! What to do???… when I first put him in the enclosure the temp was about 102… it didn’t take a minute and he was gaping. Have I been freezing him????
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
Ok Sadie I’m more confused than ever! The breeder just text me to find out the little guy was doing… told him had a hard time with temps but thought I may have it right and told him about it… he says no, not right, temps need to be at 105-107! He says that’s surface temps!… I got blasted on a FB group when I mentioned my surface temps being 100!… I really wanna scream and pull my hair out! What to do???… when I first put him in the enclosure the temp was about 102… it didn’t take a minute and he was gaping. Have I been freezing him????
No -- fb groups are terrible - it's good he was gaping at 102 he was adjusting his body temp - he will move away if he gets too hot just watch his behavior- you don't want anything over a 110- as he gets older like 6 months he will want cooler temps then you can adjust them to 95-100--
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
No -- fb groups are terrible - it's good he was gaping at 102 he was adjusting his body temp - he will move away if he gets too hot just watch his behavior- you don't want anything over a 110- as he gets older like 6 months he will want cooler temps then you can adjust them to 95-100--
Thank you… I’ve put my original bulbs back in and I’m gonna raise temps again. Poor little guy.. I hope I haven’t completely traumatized him with all these changes… or made him sick!….I’d never forgive myself!. I just don’t know how I’m gonna keep the humidity up on that side being that high I put an aloe Vera plant in there….I took out the water bowl
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
Thank you… I’ve put my original bulbs back in and I’m gonna raise temps again. Poor little guy.. I hope I haven’t completely traumatized him with all these changes… or made him sick!….I’d never forgive myself!. I just don’t know how I’m gonna keep the humidity up on that side being that high I put an aloe Vera plant in there….I took out the water bowl
Your humidity is fine you dont want it below 20 optimal is 40-50% not above 70% --
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Your humidity is fine you dont want it below 20 optimal is 40-50% not above 70% --
Ok.. so I’ve raised temps on hot side… but I’m gonna start pulling my hair out!!! Temps go up on hot side but humidity goes down to like 16! It’s so perfect on cool side .. temps in mid 80 and humidity between 30 and 40%. I’ve put a water bowl in there… I’ve added an aloe Vera plant… I’ve turned my dehumidifier off… I’m misting every 30 minutes and when I do the temp goes down and humidity up!… what am I to do???? I offered him food this morning… I’ve covered all the glass…I put the BFSL on the salad which I have left in there… and I put a superworm… I put him at the bowl(not a bowl but like a tin pie plate.. they can’t crawl out).. I completely left him alone… the room has no noise no one in and out.. quiet and dark.. except for his enclosure of course. He stayed at the plate a sec and then I heard him climb up. He’s staying on the cool side.. im at the end of knowing what to do…
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,875
Ok.. so I’ve raised temps on hot side… but I’m gonna start pulling my hair out!!! Temps go up on hot side but humidity goes down to like 16! It’s so perfect on cool side .. temps in mid 80 and humidity between 30 and 40%. I’ve put a water bowl in there… I’ve added an aloe Vera plant… I’ve turned my dehumidifier off… I’m misting every 30 minutes and when I do the temp goes down and humidity up!… what am I to do???? I offered him food this morning… I’ve covered all the glass…I put the BFSL on the salad which I have left in there… and I put a superworm… I put him at the bowl(not a bowl but like a tin pie plate.. they can’t crawl out).. I completely left him alone… the room has no noise no one in and out.. quiet and dark.. except for his enclosure of course. He stayed at the plate a sec and then I heard him climb up. He’s staying on the cool side.. im at the end of knowing what to do…
Ok so your probe is in the center back wall of the tank for the hygrometer? That's going to be the overall humidity- w/ you stressing your stressing him out- just relax- what is your basking side temp?
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Ok so your probe is in the center back wall of the tank for the hygrometer? That's going to be the overall humidity- w/ you stressing your stressing him out- just relax- what is your basking side temp?
Ok… I think I need to move the probe a little closer to the middle.. I moved it to the back wall but I don’t think I’ve moved it over toward the middle enough…my basking temps are up to 103… the breeder texted me last night and said his temps need to be 105-107… surface temps… I’ve kept it at 103.9 this morning… I have my temp probe on the basking surface… is that not right? The temp gun reads like 112 surface temp but I know those can be off. But a bit of progress! I’ve kept the glass covered.. kept it quiet in his room.. I put salad with a superworm, some larvae and about 5 roaches in there and have just left. I peeked in to find salad out of the bowl an only see one roach!! So… I think that’s a little progress! I’ll move that sensor.. and I guess move the temp probe also
 

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