Bioactive Soil as a Substrate Choice

[minispeck]

jarich,

i don't think I can trust anything around here as it's mostly lawn area.

also: i put the isopods in and they aren't going under the soil at all - does it normally take a while (30 minutes plus)? :/ i'm getting more worried about this soil i chose. has some bad reviews too. I turned the soil to make it softer/less compact but they are still staying on top.

because they aren't digging yoshi is eating them D: even though there's crickets in there too he almost seems to prefer the isopods

i havent put the worms in yet as they won't be here till next week. i'm glad i only need about half the worms because i may have to re do all the dirt.

 

[jarich]

Sorry about the delayed response, the summer is very busy for me at work. The isopods wont really go under the dirt much, they tend to hide under logs and rocks and things mostly. There are some species that do burrow, but most dont do much.

Its too bad when some get picked off, but they are a very nutritious snack for your dragon at least. Because they are actually a crustacean they have about the best calcium phosphorous ratio you can get. Im sure that doesnt make you feel too much better after spending all that money on them. Once they get established though, they are prolific breeders. I stopped having to buy them a few years back as they literally would migrate into any new enclosure I put up. (sometimes crickets do the same, but that I never enjoyed as much!)

 

[BruceJ]

This a great post. Just set up the vivarium based on Jarich's instructions. Was able to make the soil and find grass that grows in the Australian Outback. Just waiting for the isopods and springtails. Plus, I ended up buying some leaf litter---didn't want to take stuff from outside. Thought I'd let the tank sit for a week or two before added the beardie. Thanks.

 

[Demian]

Hi Jarich! Maybe it's a silly question, but do you feed the dragons inside this type of enclosure or do you put them in a bucket or else for feeding? I'm thinking crickets especially may have tons of places to hide here. Thanks for such an awesome write up by the way, will definitely give this a try!


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[Howlett Fang]

Jarich would you be willing to make a video demonstration of the steps you take to make your Bearded Dragon enclosure? I actually plan on putting my own Bearded Dragon in a Bioactive enclosure when I manage to get a Bearded Dragon and I have been looking for a good video demonstration so I can know what it looks like to set one up.

Main questions I have are:

Can this be combined with a foaming and grout background in addition to the soil?

Would this work with a waterfall feature to keep the water source from becoming stagnant?

 

[Canicke]

Howlett - Jarich posts only sporadically. I would caution against using a waterfall in your tank - it can increase the humidity beyond what is comfortable and / or safe for your beardie. they are desert animals. the bioactive substrate will provide some moisture. you might want to test your foam and grout with a bit of the bioactive substrate.

 

[Howlett Fang]

Howlett - Jarich posts only sporadically. I would caution against using a waterfall in your tank - it can increase the humidity beyond what is comfortable and / or safe for your beardie. they are desert animals. the bioactive substrate will provide some moisture. you might want to test your foam and grout with a bit of the bioactive substrate.

Perhaps not a full blown waterfall but I would prefer not to have his/her water be stagnant because that is less healthy than a moving source I would think.

 

[Canicke]

yes - while it is true that moving water will prevent stagnation, so will changing it every day. just sayin -- here is a link to some info on humidity :
http://beardeddragonsworld.com/humidity-levels/
most beardies get their hydration from greens and veggies. mine will sometimes drink their bath water. and sometimes I drip water on their snouts and they lick it off. sometimes I think its more for me than for them. during the winter months here in Tucson, the air is pretty dry - and they are eating less cuz of brumation, so they tend to drink a bit more. I don't leave water in their tanks unless it's with the greens and veggies (I put a bit of water on them to keep them hydrated and appealing)

 

[William212]

After using various substraits, I've also settled on a soil. My dragon lives in an Exo-Terra Natural terrarium which has about a four or five inch glass boarder below the front-panel opening so I have about 2+ inches of soil and substrate. The tank has plenty of ventilation as I attached a small computer fan onto the screen-cover, providing a slight-but-constant breeze of air. This also helps keep humidity in check and helps regulate temperature.

In the back I had planted collards but as I've found out, once my dragon ate them up they take a while to grow back, A lot of mealworms and superworms have managed to escape and have taken home in the soil. The mealworms are quick to mature and whenever he's in the mood and sees them, he makes a quick dart to them Unfortunately his aim has always been a little off and oftentimes misses. For the most-part, the beetles and grubs stay hidden and come out when nighttime arives.

Has anyone had any experience with isopods?

Can they climb glass? I'd like to introduce some to the habitat, but since his enclosure opens up in the front and has small ventilation holes near the perimeter, I'm concerned with escape.

 

[PatsyB]

After using various substraits, I've also settled on a soil. My dragon lives in an Exo-Terra Natural terrarium which has about a four or five inch glass boarder below the front-panel opening so I have about 2+ inches of soil and substrate. The tank has plenty of ventilation as I attached a small computer fan onto the screen-cover, providing a slight-but-constant breeze of air. This also helps keep humidity in check and helps regulate temperature.

In the back I had planted collards but as I've found out, once my dragon ate them up they take a while to grow back, A lot of mealworms and superworms have managed to escape and have taken home in the soil. The mealworms are quick to mature and whenever he's in the mood and sees them, he makes a quick dart to them Unfortunately his aim has always been a little off and oftentimes misses. For the most-part, the beetles and grubs stay hidden and come out when nighttime arives.

Has anyone had any experience with isopods?

Can they climb glass? I'd like to introduce some to the habitat, but since his enclosure opens up in the front and has small ventilation holes near the perimeter, I'm concerned with escape.

Isopods don't climb glass. I have two bio exo terra tanks going, one for my frogs and one for my crested gecko. I use dwarf isopods and springtails and never had any issues with them climbing the glass. I use dwarf ones because my frogs will eat anything bigger than that before they get a chance to populate the tank and Isopods are expensive!

 

[Mary VT]

Thank you so much for the information on bioactive setups...this has been extremely helpful! How many African nightcrawlers would you introduce into a new 75 gallon bioactive setup? And is a 40 gallon breeder tank simply too small for bioactive? Thanks.

 

[Damian Morton]

I am about to start this whole thing next weekend and I just had a question, I work at a pet store, and I was just wondering when you say playsand, would it be okay to use like reptisand? Or a sand that's at my store?


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[PatsyB]

I am about to start this whole thing next weekend and I just had a question, I work at a pet store, and I was just wondering when you say playsand, would it be okay to use like reptisand? Or a sand that's at my store?


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NO to the Repti Sand! You need to use a non toxic sand that has nothing added to it. Children's play sand is great because it's very cheep, like $6 for 50 pounds or something like that.

 

[William212]

Never used reptisand, but according to Zoo Med, it's "Made of pure quartz desert sand," so it doesn't sound any more toxic in comparison to playground sand.

 

[Aussiesanddragons]

Thank you so much Jarich for such a well put together post! I am about to start mixing everything together, but I was also wondering if this would work in the short eco-terra tank that opens in the front? It's dimensions are 18"x12"x36". I have one this size, and for my other dragon I bought the 18"x18"x36" one since it was easier to put tall decor in.

Sorry for starting up an old thread again, but I figured many dragon owners use this tank or one similar.

 

[PatsyB]

Thank you so much Jarich for such a well put together post! I am about to start mixing everything together, but I was also wondering if this would work in the short eco-terra tank that opens in the front? It's dimensions are 18"x12"x36". I have one this size, and for my other dragon I bought the 18"x18"x36" one since it was easier to put tall decor in.

Sorry for starting up an old thread again, but I figured many dragon owners use this tank or one similar.

Tanks that open in the front work great for bio because you can easily just get in the tank. I have 2 bio tanks for other animals and I LOVE them. I haven't done one for the beardies yet.

 

[Aussiesanddragons]

Tanks that open in the front work great for bio because you can easily just get in the tank. I have 2 bio tanks for other animals and I LOVE them. I haven't done one for the beardies yet.

I finished both of their tanks, but I am afraid my shorter tabk isn't going to do as well as the taller one. I'll post pics when I get home this afternoon.

 

[Taaj Dowell]

For earthworms there are a couple different choices. I usually use african nightcrawlers (Eudrilius eugeniae) for my enclosures as they do very well in warm soil. Most earthworms you get here have a hard time with such warm soil, but the african ones thrive in it. They are especially fast breeding too, which is nice for the soil. They will come out at night and eat any bits of salad or vegetables that are on top of the soil too, which is great. Plus they aerate the soil very well. You can also use red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) but the only disadvantage is that the dragons will generally not eat those. They produce a mild toxin when disturbed, to keep from being eaten. They are also much smaller worms, if that makes any difference to you. I like the idea that my lizards might eat some of the african ones if they dig them up as they are incredibly good nutrition (high in Calcium and other minerals), so I usually stick to the nightcrawlers. DONT use Canadian nightcrawlers for your soil. They require cooler soil (which is why they are kept in the fridge) so if you put them in warm soil they just turn into goo and stink up the place. Here is a good place for buying bulk worms (you can feed some to them and put the rest in the soil).


http://www.worms4earth.com/worms/africannightcrawlers.php


As I said before, the worms and isopods will dig their little tunnels and help aerate the soil, plus allow for a more evenly moist soil. The reason that is important is because the good bacteria (aerobic) and invertebrates (nematodes) that will break down the nitrogen and wastes for you love oxygen. The gross and bad bacteria (anaerobic) and fungus that can cause problems love it when there is less or no oxygen. So you want to keep in mind that there are certain things you will do to your soil to help it retain its oxygen. One of those is by turning the soil every two or three months. Just get a sturdy little hand rake, clear off your top layer of leaves or moss, and churn up that soil. That will aerate the soil while still keeping the bacterial cycle in place. If you have plants planted in the soil, be careful of the roots of course, but get as close to the plant as you can so that you can cycle the dirt close to it.


Its also important to make sure to keep the soil moist, but not wet. Depending on how much ventilation you have in your enclosure (open top or closed top) will dictate how quickly it dries out. I have open sides on mine, so I have to water the soil once a week to keep it moist. You want to allow the top to dry out a bit, so maybe the top 1/2 inch can dry out before you water again. Do not let it go much longer though. If you let your soil dry out totally and then water it, then dry out again, etc you will create great conditions for fungus. Fungus can kill off a lot of the good stuff, and is just generally not good.


I have a rainwater can, like used in gardens, so that I can simulate rain once a week. As your invertebrates thrive youll notice them all come out when it 'rains', which is kind of cool. (Sounds funny to say, but baby isopods are pretty cute). You'll notice when you water it that you can see the water rush down at certain points (earthworm tunnels especially) and filter through into the drainage layer. You dont want your drainage layer to get full, but each time you water some will go down there. I usually do a bit of watering, wait for it to soak in a bit, then go over it again, then wait and see how much trickles through to the drainage layer, then hit it again. For the first few times, wait about ten minutes between the waterings so that you can really see how much is going down into the drainage layer. After youve done it a few times you'll get used to how much you actually need to water. If you have live plants in the soil, you may need to water the area right around them a bit more often, so keep that in mind.


Remember, you are creating a biological cycle, much like you do in a fish tank with the water. It takes time for the good bacteria to thrive. So if you can, its best to set up your enclosure a couple of weeks before you put your dragon in. (Thats not always possible of course, so dont let it stop you from doing it) If you are putting your dragon in right away after you put in the soil, then for the first couple weeks just spot clean the dragon wastes out when you see it. After a few weeks, when the bacteria, nematodes, inverts, etc are thriving, youll notice that the wastes gets taken care of within about a day or two. All that will be left is the hard white urates. You can either remove them if you like, or they will naturally powder and breakdown into the soil.


Part of the cycle in the beginning is a sort of evening out of the various life in the soil. That means that sometimes you will get molds or fungal blooms. Its natural and should even out in a couple weeks, as long as you are not keeping the soil to wet. The isopods and springtails will eat the molds and the fungus should get outcompeted by the various bacteria as they thrive. Dont freak out though if you find some green or white stuff growing in a corner though. Just churn up the soil a bit and let it cycle through normally.


Now, I know that many times we are told two things that might make you hesitant about using a moist soil substrate. First, that this will raise humidity, and that this is bad because it causes respiratory problems. That comes from a bit of a misunderstanding in the first place, but is not totally without basis. In the wild these animals inhabit a very wide range of habitats, with humidity anywhere from 15%-65%. What that tells us is that they can handle varying levels of humidity quite well. However, the problem arises in a sterile enclosure with bad ventilation (and often times too cool temperature), which unfortunately is often the case with dragon enclosures. When you have a sterile enclosure with stagnant, very humid air you will get fungal and bacterial blooms quite easily. Breathing these in all the time will obviously cause lung problems for your dragon. Keeping a bone dry enclosure however, also has the potential to cause just as many issues as the lining of the lungs struggle to stay moist and so compromise their natural immune function. However, a healthy soil will counteract fungal blooms naturally, and proper ventilation will also keep blooms from becoming an issue. Basically, just keep your enclosures well ventilated and at proper temperatures and you dont have to worry about humidity. Do make sure that your humidity is around at least 30%, or you are going to be causing dehydration pretty easily.


The second thing that we often get told is bad is that all loose substrates cause impaction, so dont use any of them. This is probably the one I have to discuss the most as it gets drilled into everyones head, even by some well meaning vets. Let me be plain, substrates do not cause impactions. A healthy dragon could eat just about anything and it would pass through, just like you or I (I ate a couple pennies when I was a kid, and yet here I am). If it isnt digested, it will simply pass through the flexible intestines. Even larger things or sharper things are compensated for by the colon producing a mucus around the object so that it will get pushed through easier. However, there is one very serious stipulation here. This is only true of a healthy, hydrated dragon, because digestion and mucus creation require quite a bit of moisture. Without proper hydration just about anything can cause impactions, which is why you hear of too many mealworms causing impactions, or sand causing impactions or too big a piece of vegetables causing impactions. If your dragons digestive tract cant motivate enough moisture to process what it is ingesting, its going to be too dry in their and its going to get stuck. Your dragon can eat dirt, just like it does in the wild (some scientist have suggested that this is an important part of their diet for the absorption of minerals and why they touch their tongue to literally everything) and pass it easily, as long as it is properly hydrated. The wonderful thing about a soil substrate is that it allows your dragon to stay hydrated more easily. They burrow in the wild both to retain heat at night and also to retain moisture when its too dry. Down a burrow, the humidity is much higher than it is above ground. So with each breath (all animals must have the air moistened in their lungs to allow for air transfer) depending on the humidity of the air, they will lose their own moisture more quickly or slowly. Giving them a moist soil allows them to control their moisture loss in a much more natural way, rather than just having us as keepers dictate it to them. Like the heat and UV exposure, they know best what they need and we are just trying to provide a gradient for them to choose from.


I think thats covered pretty much everything, but please feel free to ask any questions you may have or share your experiences below. Thanks for reading!

Wonderful information...Very much appreciated. In the midst of going bioactive for my lil lady Tiki...this was very helpful.

 

[MaTTyMaTT]

Hey thanks for the detail information - I am currently using this as a platform to begin the bio active enclosure for a bearded dragon my wife and I plan on buying for our son. which is a few months out.
So i have time to get the soil prepped and thriving. I understand all of this and I have researched it a great deal myself (which is how i found your post) My main question is at what humidity level do you keep your enclosure ?
I have been hearing mix reviews on if you keep your tank humidity level high to allow the microfauna to flourish the bearded dragon will get to respiratory issues, but if you keep the humidity levels lower for the dragon, you run the risk of killing your bio active culture. So I obviously would like to maintain an even keel for both.
Due to the fact the dragon requires 100 degrees for the basking area, I would think moisture below that spot would be non existent and any attempt to keep it moist would raise the humidity levels far beyond what i would want.
So under the basking light does the soil just die ? or do you spray it ?
or do you have so much soil that even below the basking light there is moisture far down into the soil?

Also is there a specific isopod or spring tail species that is preferred for this type of environment that enjoys a little less humidity?

thanks - any help towards any of this helps immensely.
please keep in mind these questions are directed towards YOUR specific recipe for substrate as I will be using your recipe to design my substrate.