Bearded dragon not eating, please help!!!!!!

[diothedragon]

My boyfriend and I got a baby bearded dragon from online this past February. We started out with a 20 gallon tank, but in April we moved up to a 40 gallon. He is about 8 months old currently. We noticed a little over a month ago that he wasn't eating as much as usual (which is a a lot), so we took him to the vet. The vet told us that he suspected that Diego (our beardie) had metabolic bone disease, but he couldn't be sure unless we paid for $300 diagnostic tests which we simply could not afford. So instead we went out and bought all new UVB bulbs to ensure that he gets proper lighting. About a week later, we moved into a new apartment. Diego still was barely eating and also not pooping as much, but we assumed that since he was just moved into a new environment that he just needed to adjust. It has now been a month and it has gotten so bad that Diego will not go to the bathroom unless soaked in warm water, and he is only eating one or two worms or crickets a day. It's like he will look at the food and acknowledge that it's there, and sometimes appear that he is about to eat it, but then he just doesn't. Also, it's worth noting that he was on medicine for parasites the first time we took him to the vet, but it's been a couple weeks since his last dose, so I'm sure that the parasites and medicine are out of his system. I don't know what to do, we really can't afford the diagnostic tests (blood work, chemistry panel, ultrasound, and xray). And, even if he is sick from metabolic bone disease, how can we give him more calcium if he won't even eat? And one more thing...he seems healthy and happy otherwise. He is not lethargic, it is only a loss of appetite and constipation. Thank you for taking the time to read all this, if anyone has had a similar experience or knows what could be wrong, please help.

 

[Sadie]

My boyfriend and I got a baby bearded dragon from online this past February. We started out with a 20 gallon tank, but in April we moved up to a 40 gallon. He is about 8 months old currently. We noticed a little over a month ago that he wasn't eating as much as usual (which is a a lot), so we took him to the vet. The vet told us that he suspected that Diego (our beardie) had metabolic bone disease, but he couldn't be sure unless we paid for $300 diagnostic tests which we simply could not afford. So instead we went out and bought all new UVB bulbs to ensure that he gets proper lighting. About a week later, we moved into a new apartment. Diego still was barely eating and also not pooping as much, but we assumed that since he was just moved into a new environment that he just needed to adjust. It has now been a month and it has gotten so bad that Diego will not go to the bathroom unless soaked in warm water, and he is only eating one or two worms or crickets a day. It's like he will look at the food and acknowledge that it's there, and sometimes appear that he is about to eat it, but then he just doesn't. Also, it's worth noting that he was on medicine for parasites the first time we took him to the vet, but it's been a couple weeks since his last dose, so I'm sure that the parasites and medicine are out of his system. I don't know what to do, we really can't afford the diagnostic tests (blood work, chemistry panel, ultrasound, and xray). And, even if he is sick from metabolic bone disease, how can we give him more calcium if he won't even eat? And one more thing...he seems healthy and happy otherwise. He is not lethargic, it is only a loss of appetite and constipation. Thank you for taking the time to read all this, if anyone has had a similar experience or knows what could be wrong, please help.

Tell me what you bought for a uvb- brand and bulb coil or tube ? Where in the tank is it? Top of screen or inside the tank? What are your basking temps and how are you taking them? No stick ons! He needs to be kept hydrated- another reason they won't eat-- keep offering him food but I need to know what the temps are and the UVB- look on the bulb it will tell you

 

[diothedragon]

Tell me what you bought for a uvb- brand and bulb coil or tube ? Where in the tank is it? Top of screen or inside the tank? What are your basking temps and how are you taking them? No stick ons! He needs to be kept hydrated- another reason they won't eat-- keep offering him food but I need to know what the temps are and the UVB- look on the bulb it will tell you

The terrarium is separated into 4 quadrants, and 2 of them we have tube UVB lights and the other two are coil bulbs in domes. One is a double dome that also has his basking light. The basking temperature is around 95-100, but I am using a stick on thermometer. His basking area is about 9 inches away from the light. The lights are all laying directly on top of the screen. Also we have been keeping him hydrated by giving him water in through a syringe on the days that we don't see him drink

 

[Sadie]

The terrarium is separated into 4 quadrants, and 2 of them we have tube UVB lights and the other two are coil bulbs in domes. One is a double dome that also has his basking light. The basking temperature is around 95-100, but I am using a stick on thermometer. His basking area is about 9 inches away from the light. The lights are all laying directly on top of the screen. Also we have been keeping him hydrated by giving him water in through a syringe on the days that we don't see him drink

Why is the tank separated into quadrants? Please get rid of the coil UVB's and tell me what the tube is? Brand and bulb is it a T 5 or a T 8- ?this is important- go to PetSmart or Petco and get a digital probe thermometer $7-- you need basking temps of 105-110 - set the probe on the spot he basks wait 10 minutes get temp-

 

[diothedragon]

Why is the tank separated into quadrants? Please get rid of the coil UVB's and tell me what the tube is? Brand and bulb is it a T 5 or a T 8- ?this is important- go to PetSmart or Petco and get a digital probe thermometer $7-- you need basking temps of 105-110 - set the probe on the spot he basks wait 10 minutes get temp-

May I ask why coil bulbs shouldn't be used? And one of the tubes is 15 watt T8 and the other doesn't say, it's a bit smaller. I got it from the ZooMed brand, it came with one of his terrariums but I recently replaced the bulb for it. Also the quadrants are only on the top of the tank. The best way to describe it is that there's like a black cross separating the top instead of just one big screen.

 

[Sadie]

May I ask why coil bulbs shouldn't be used? And one of the tubes is 15 watt T8 and the other doesn't say, it's a bit smaller. I got it from the ZooMed brand, it came with one of his terrariums but I recently replaced the bulb for it. Also the quadrants are only on the top of the tank. The best way to describe it is that there's like a black cross separating the top instead of just one big screen.

I am gonna haft to help you when I get home -- I am on my phone at the moment and I have some info on the difference if UVBs- the T 8 is zoo med Reptisun? It needs to go inside the tank NO plastic cover over the bulb take it off - he's not getting enough UVB the T 8 is not strong enough to go thru the rays-- coils are no good- they cause alot of health issues - the distance for your UVB should be 6-8 inches from his basking decor

 

[Sadie]

I am gonna haft to help you when I get home -- I am on my phone at the moment and I have some info on the difference if UVBs- the T 8 is zoo med Reptisun? It needs to go inside the tank NO plastic cover over the bulb take it off - he's not getting enough UVB the T 8 is not strong enough to go thru the screen- coils are no good- they cause alot of health issues - the distance for your UVB should be 6-8 inches from his basking decor

Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--

 

[diothedragon]

Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--

So in that case, would you recommend the T5 as opposed to the T8? Also, how would I mount the bulb inside of the enclosure? And you said that it should be 12-15 inches from the basking spot, does that mean that I should have it right next to the basking bulb?

 

[Sadie]

So in that case, would you recommend the T5 as opposed to the T8? Also, how would I mount the bulb inside of the enclosure? And you said that it should be 12-15 inches from the basking spot, does that mean that I should have it right next to the basking bulb?

The T 8 is good ---distance plays a factor in the bulbs --- The T 8 needs to be inside for it to do any good nothing obstructing the bulb NO plastic cover over the bulb so no screen --- the T 5 has options it can sit on top of the tank but the screen must either be off or it must be a wide holed screen like a dime --- if the screen is a fine mesh it needs to be inside approx 12-15 inches -- you can use these to hang the fixture inside 3 M command Velcro fasteners- picture hanging wire – long plastic zip ties-- fishing line -- potted plant wire hangers -- shoe laces --
If you can get the UVB next to the basking light that is optimal if you cant that is fine too - he will go to the light he needs -- you can also place the UVB width wise if the fixture is long enough to sit across w/ no obstruction from the UVB -- how old is the T 8? If its less than 6 months old your good--- T 8's need to be changed out every 6 months I would do it a month before - so mark your calendar -- if you change over to a T 5 you will need to buy another fixture I recommend a 24" w/ a reflector if your tank is 40+ gallons - T 5's are good for a year -- you want a Reptisun bulb or Arcadia 12% bulb they are the best on the market at this time-- get your UVB situated and your basking temps - they are important -- NO stick ons they are inaccurate --- you want a digital probe thermometer - Petco or Petsmart $7 -- you might want to invest in IR heat gun as well --- but the probe is a must - you can the IR gun at your local home improvement store for $20 - a good investment to have -- basking temps should be 105-110 -- if you need help finding a new fixture I can give you some website to order from you decide on what you want to do but the coils NEED to GO

 

[diothedragon]

The T 8 is good ---distance plays a factor in the bulbs --- The T 8 needs to be inside for it to do any good nothing obstructing the bulb NO plastic cover over the bulb so no screen --- the T 5 has options it can sit on top of the tank but the screen must either be off or it must be a wide holed screen like a dime --- if the screen is a fine mesh it needs to be inside approx 12-15 inches -- you can use these to hang the fixture inside 3 M command Velcro fasteners- picture hanging wire – long plastic zip ties-- fishing line -- potted plant wire hangers -- shoe laces --
If you can get the UVB next to the basking light that is optimal if you cant that is fine too - he will go to the light he needs -- you can also place the UVB width wise if the fixture is long enough to sit across w/ no obstruction from the UVB -- how old is the T 8? If its less than 6 months old your good--- T 8's need to be changed out every 6 months I would do it a month before - so mark your calendar -- if you change over to a T 5 you will need to buy another fixture I recommend a 24" w/ a reflector if your tank is 40+ gallons - T 5's are good for a year -- you want a Reptisun bulb or Arcadia 12% bulb they are the best on the market at this time-- get your UVB situated and your basking temps - they are important -- NO stick ons they are inaccurate --- you want a digital probe thermometer - Petco or Petsmart $7 -- you might want to invest in IR heat gun as well --- but the probe is a must - you can the IR gun at your local home improvement store for $20 - a good investment to have -- basking temps should be 105-110 -- if you need help finding a new fixture I can give you some website to order from you decide on what you want to do but the coils NEED to GO

Yes, if you have a website that I can buy the fixture off of, please send the link. I have been to Pet Supermarket, PetCo, and PetSmart, and they all have very few options for lighting and most of them are coil bulbs. Also, if I have to make the basking area hotter, should I go up in watts? I have a 100 watt heat bulb as his basking bulb at the moment.

 

[Sadie]

Yes, if you have a website that I can buy the fixture off of, please send the link. I have been to Pet Supermarket, PetCo, and PetSmart, and they all have very few options for lighting and most of them are coil bulbs. Also, if I have to make the basking area hotter, should I go up in watts? I have a 100 watt heat bulb as his basking bulb at the moment.

Before you change that bulb out make sure you have one of these
https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...um-digital-thermometer-14914.html?cgid=500202 get your actual basking temp w/ the one you have now - then decide if you need to go to a higher wattage bulb - you can also try moving decor closer to the basking bulb but you do not want it less than 6 inches away ---I would rather you go to a higher wattage bulb if your not getting the correct temp you need --
here is a website for the fixture --
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html 24"
and here is the bulb

Arcadia 12% UVB T5 HO

Offering a significant increase in both visible light and UV output compared with T8 lamps of similar length. For Desert Species 12% UVB for the synthesis of vitamin D3 30% UVA Produces excellent natural colors 100%+ more visible light than equivalent length D3+ T8 lamp (un-reflected) 95% more...

www.pangeareptile.com

I am gonna have you get the Arcadia 22' since the Reptisun is out of stock
These people are good on shipping and they are fast and they ship Fed Ex --
I am going to help you w/ the feeding as well - when was the last time he ate? And what are you feeding him?

 

[diothedragon]

Before you change that bulb out make sure you have one of these
https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...um-digital-thermometer-14914.html?cgid=500202 get your actual basking temp w/ the one you have now - then decide if you need to go to a higher wattage bulb - you can also try moving decor closer to the basking bulb but you do not want it less than 6 inches away ---I would rather you go to a higher wattage bulb if your not getting the correct temp you need --
here is a website for the fixture --
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood.html 24"
and here is the bulb

Arcadia 12% UVB T5 HO

Offering a significant increase in both visible light and UV output compared with T8 lamps of similar length. For Desert Species 12% UVB for the synthesis of vitamin D3 30% UVA Produces excellent natural colors 100%+ more visible light than equivalent length D3+ T8 lamp (un-reflected) 95% more...

www.pangeareptile.com

I am gonna have you get the Arcadia 22' since the Reptisun is out of stock
These people are good on shipping and they are fast and they ship Fed Ex --
I am going to help you w/ the feeding as well - when was the last time he ate? And what are you feeding him?

Thank you! He ate today, but he only had 1 superworm. I tried to feed him more worms after that and he didn't want anymore. I also tried to feed him crickets and he didn't want those either. I typically feed him superworms, mealworms, crickets, collard greens, and carrot tops. I tried a few different greens and wax worms which he didn't like. I also dust the crickets and worms in calcium powder. I wanted to try dubia roaches to give him more variety, but they are illegal where I live.

 

[Sadie]

Thank you! He ate today, but he only had 1 superworm. I tried to feed him more worms after that and he didn't want anymore. I also tried to feed him crickets and he didn't want those either. I typically feed him superworms, mealworms, crickets, collard greens, and carrot tops. I tried a few different greens and wax worms which he didn't like. I also dust the crickets and worms in calcium powder. I wanted to try dubia roaches to give him more variety, but they are illegal where I live.

Ok so you are in FL? If so you can get discoid roaches from here https://www.thecritterdepot.com/products/discoid-roaches-for-sale
Here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
You can also get worms from here and BSFL they are a great staple feeder do not dust them feed as many as you want and your going to need a bowl so they cant get out of something like this
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
I would get him some BSFL some medium super worms and some butter worms they are all good lures to the salad bowl
www.mulberryfarms.com they are spendy on shipping
and right now very slow at getting orders out -- if you look on the website it says like 2-3 weeks out --
In the mean time keep offering him salads and please limit the wax worms - if hes eating them they are very fatty and should be fed sparingly -- insects should be dusted 5 x per week w/ calcium D3 one time per feeding if your feeding more than once a day -- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week once per feeding -- the calcium powder you have now has D3 or not?

 

[diothedragon]

Ok so you are in FL? If so you can get discoid roaches from here https://www.thecritterdepot.com/products/discoid-roaches-for-sale
Here is a website for nutrition ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
You can also get worms from here and BSFL they are a great staple feeder do not dust them feed as many as you want and your going to need a bowl so they cant get out of something like this
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
I would get him some BSFL some medium super worms and some butter worms they are all good lures to the salad bowl
www.mulberryfarms.com they are spendy on shipping
and right now very slow at getting orders out -- if you look on the website it says like 2-3 weeks out --
In the mean time keep offering him salads and please limit the wax worms - if hes eating them they are very fatty and should be fed sparingly -- insects should be dusted 5 x per week w/ calcium D3 one time per feeding if your feeding more than once a day -- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week once per feeding -- the calcium powder you have now has D3 or not?

No, I don't have D3! I'm not even quite sure what that is actually. Also, what is BSFL? and don't worry, we only tried to feed him wax worms a couple of times and he did not like them so we stopped. I put salads in his tank every day but most of the time (at least recently) he will walk up to it and lick it or maybe take one bite and then ignore the rest. We've been dusting pretty much everything with calcium every day in hopes that he'll at least get something with calcium in him for his bones, since the doctor pointed that out as a possible issue. And yes, we are from FL.

 

[Sadie]

No, I don't have D3! I'm not even quite sure what that is actually. Also, what is BSFL? and don't worry, we only tried to feed him wax worms a couple of times and he did not like them so we stopped. I put salads in his tank every day but most of the time (at least recently) he will walk up to it and lick it or maybe take one bite and then ignore the rest. We've been dusting pretty much everything with calcium every day in hopes that he'll at least get something with calcium in him for his bones, since the doctor pointed that out as a possible issue. And yes, we are from FL.

https://www.chewy.com/rep-cal-calci...MI07aQ4fDB6wIVzMDACh1AjAToEAQYAiABEgLhJPD_BwE
The calcium your giving is Phosphorus free?
Black Soldier Fly Larva also known as calci worms phoenix worms or nutri grubs
Dust the insects - that way you know hes going to get the calcium and vitamins

 

[Sadie]

Please get your UVB situated and basking temps correct ASAP and you will notice a difference in his behavior -- keep me posted please

 

[diothedragon]

https://www.chewy.com/rep-cal-calci...MI07aQ4fDB6wIVzMDACh1AjAToEAQYAiABEgLhJPD_BwE
The calcium your giving is Phosphorus free?
Black Soldier Fly Larva also known as calci worms phoenix worms or nutri grubs
Dust the insects - that way you know hes going to get the calcium and vitamins

It does not say phosphorous-free on the container, but it doesn't say that it contains it either. I have seen calci worms at the pet store but I didn't know that bearded dragons could eat them. I will make a trip tomorrow and buy everything that you recommended that they have, plus the light from online. I will update you. I really hope he gets his appetite back. Thank you so much for your advice, you've been very helpful. The vet did not ask or tell me any of these things.

 

[Sadie]

It does not say phosphorous-free on the container, but it doesn't say that it contains it either. I have seen calci worms at the pet store but I didn't know that bearded dragons could eat them. I will make a trip tomorrow and buy everything that you recommended that they have, plus the light from online. I will update you. I really hope he gets his appetite back. Thank you so much for your advice, you've been very helpful. The vet did not ask or tell me any of these things.

Some vets are just not real good- here is a website to find a reptile vet in your area
www.arav.org
Please look for calcium w/out phosphorus-- you can look on line for both- I think www.reptilesplus.com has them both you want D 3 and calcium w/ out phosphorus

 

[Emilia Thuet]

Can you send in a picture of him and his enclosure? Also an at home test to see if a bearded dragon has mbd is gently press under his jaw if it’s soft and not hard he has mbd. Best thing to do his give him daily baths at the moment to keep him hydrated. Some Bearded dragons can take in water through their buys so even if he’s not taking in water through his mouth he could still be drinking it. Put in liquid calcium into his bath or food. I suggest you start with baby food considering he’s not eating on his own and you may have to syringe feed him. Organic butternut squash and organic butternut squash with chicken is usually a fan favourite. Flukers also has a critical care formula that I give to my elderly beardie and it’s basically just filled with lots of vitamins and minerals and has been used as a meal stimulant. You can put the liquid calcium in both. A good starting guide with the baby food it’s 3ml 3 times a day and one of those doses to be with the chicken one. If he’s responding well so this for a couple of days and than try solid squash and soft feeders like butter or wax worms. Also I suggest you get a new vet considering it doesn’t take all those tests to see if he has mbd. My vet looked at Cleo and said that she did have mbd in her toes. And if the vet did suspect any large signs of mbd he would have given your beardie a calcium booster shot because he would have had a calcium deficiency from the mbd. I promise you you don’t need a $300 test to figure out if a beardie has mbd.

 

[Julee1971]

My boyfriend and I got a baby bearded dragon from online this past February. We started out with a 20 gallon tank, but in April we moved up to a 40 gallon. He is about 8 months old currently. We noticed a little over a month ago that he wasn't eating as much as usual (which is a a lot), so we took him to the vet. The vet told us that he suspected that Diego (our beardie) had metabolic bone disease, but he couldn't be sure unless we paid for $300 diagnostic tests which we simply could not afford. So instead we went out and bought all new UVB bulbs to ensure that he gets proper lighting. About a week later, we moved into a new apartment. Diego still was barely eating and also not pooping as much, but we assumed that since he was just moved into a new environment that he just needed to adjust. It has now been a month and it has gotten so bad that Diego will not go to the bathroom unless soaked in warm water, and he is only eating one or two worms or crickets a day. It's like he will look at the food and acknowledge that it's there, and sometimes appear that he is about to eat it, but then he just doesn't. Also, it's worth noting that he was on medicine for parasites the first time we took him to the vet, but it's been a couple weeks since his last dose, so I'm sure that the parasites and medicine are out of his system. I don't know what to do, we really can't afford the diagnostic tests (blood work, chemistry panel, ultrasound, and xray). And, even if he is sick from metabolic bone disease, how can we give him more calcium if he won't even eat? And one more thing...he seems healthy and happy otherwise. He is not lethargic, it is only a loss of appetite and constipation. Thank you for taking the time to read all this, if anyone has had a similar experience or knows what could be wrong, please help.

Ok here’s what you do. 1st Buy the Reptisun 10.0 T5 ASAP for the 40 gallon/36 inch long tank tank u need to buy a 28-30inch long Reptisun and Holder it’s on amazon. It should cover 70 prcnt of the tank Its the best and only UVB to use. When basking he shoidl be getting Uvb and heat 2gether so it’s placed like the pic I’ve posted & needs replacing every 6mnths. Place it in the back and get the ZooMed 100watt basking bulb place it like the pic I have shown you. Also, calcium powder RepCal brand dusted 5 times a week on the crickets or Dubias or veggie plate; in your case maybe do everyday for 3-4 months to make up for lost time. Next find another reptile vet ask and google because he needs calcium shots ASAP but maybe u can bring him back to life. Also please ONLY feed Dubia roaches and crickets only; the super and meal worms are destructive to the tummy & meal worms impact Beardies and super worms can only be given after 1.5 yrs of age. Bath him daily to get him to poop so he can clear his tummy and place a plate of staple greens means: dandelions, mustard, collard greens, endives, yellow squash, snap peas, butternut squash and green beans cut up small so he can eat; mix 2-2 greens w/2-3 veggies a plate every mornign one hour after basking place it in the cold side ahow it to him too. But he needs the uvb and ZooMed clear light ASAp. NO colored bulbs ever & at nite pure dark. I’ve revived Beardies that we’re almost dead and so many ignorant people hat don’t give the right UVb his bones are very very brittle u will have to Pic him up and place him on the basking spot temp should be 100-102 not higher since he’s 8mnths old and make sure u place things he can climb on to get to his basking and like a stairway because he’s very very weak. Also never ever feed him until after minimum 1 hour of basking if he’s not warm he can’t eat. Let him bask and bath him ciz he needs to poop still give him lots of water and do the food changes ASAP with calcium and No worms of any sort. Look at the pic I have and replicate it. My uvb covers the entire tank because I revived her; u can buy a 36 inch one but they have to b able to get out of the uvb at times. Yours needs all the uvb he can get the brighter the tank the healthier the Beardie. Work on that and let me knwk