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Baby Beardie Will Only Eat Critical Care

Keko

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
5
Hello I’m new to this forum and a new beardie owner. My little guy is about 2 months old, I’ve had him for 3 weeks and it has been a struggle from the start. He refuses to eat. He now gets critical care every day which he likes but refuses to eat anything else. This was started with his hunger strike of 5 days. I’ve tried feeding him small crickets, big crickets, worms of all sorts. Changed containers I was feeding him in. Force fed him some(vet suggestion) hoping he would decide he liked them this was after going on a hunger strike for 5 days straight. Tried hand feeding. Leaving worms in his terrarium. Squishing worms and putting on his nose. Nothing.
Here is how I’ve been caring for him:
55 gallon terrarium, Front opening,Top is a screen
Daytime lights: Repti basking light and Meg Ray Mercury Vapour 160 watt
Nighttime light: red heat light but I think I will switch to ceramic
Basking Temp ranges from 95-110 he has lots of places he can go
Warm ambient temp ranges 85 up to 100
Cool Ambient Temp ranges from 77-85 again lots of places he can go
Veggie Diet: fresh greens of all sorts available all day never eats them
Protein: crickets, Phoenix worms, wax worms, butter worms, horn worms
Calcium when I can get it in him, he has no signs of low calcium.
 

PatsyB

Super Moderator
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Beardie Club
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Location
Chicago
Get rid of the colored light and night and use a CHE only if the temp in the tank is dropping below 65 degrees. The colored light messes with their brain and doesn't allow them to fully relax and sleep at night, which could be a reason he isn't eating.

Also get the basking temp more stable. A few degrees of sway is okay but 15 degrees is a big difference. 107-110 is a good range.

If these changes don't help, I would take him to the vet for a checkup.
 

Keko

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
5
C269AB7C-5478-418F-95D1-AFE5484BEDAA.jpeg
Get rid of the colored light and night and use a CHE only if the temp in the tank is dropping below 65 degrees. The colored light messes with their brain and doesn't allow them to fully relax and sleep at night, which could be a reason he isn't eating.

Also get the basking temp more stable. A few degrees of sway is okay but 15 degrees is a big difference. 107-110 is a good range.

If these changes don't help, I would take him to the vet for a checkup.



I will get a CHE today because it does drop below 65.
Basking temps are stable as in they don’t fluctuate but there is a lot of places he can go. Here is a pic of his set up. So the middle of his hammock is a different temp then the corners. And the branch leading up to the hammock again is a different temp. So I just gave a range because he has so many choices of where he could bask.
Also he was tested for parasites and treated.
He is so sensitive I cleaned his terrarium with the least amount of disturbance to him as possible. He hid for two days after that.
Any ideas of how I can encourage him to eat solid food?
 

PatsyB

Super Moderator
Staff member
1,000+ Post Club
Beardie Club
Messages
9,390
Location
Chicago
You could try bowl feeding and walking away from him. Some dragons don't like to be watched when they eat.
 

Poisonedbite

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
I didn't see you mention roaches. I use dubia because Sobek adores them. There are many varieties of feeder roaches though.
 

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