baby bearded dragon not eating

[Bk7]

I would move the UVB closer to the wood and def get a digital probe thermometer for like 7 bucks from ur lps. Now I am a noob but did countless hours of research b4 getting my lil Pablo so the best advice I could give u is google... whenever I have a question I google it and hope to find answers and of course forums hope everything works out for u and ur lil guy and keep us updated


One beardie. Four corns. One ball python. One Costa Rican boa.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

It's not unusal for dragons not to eat for a few days and it is also not unusual for them to not poop for even several days. If they aren't really eating then it would make sense that they wouldn't be pooping. Food that they eat can also take up to 36 hours or more to process through their system.
I read that he did pass some kind of poop and it is possible that the red colour that you saw is from the red pellets that you said you offer to him as some of those pellets are heavily dyed.
Impaction is a scary thing for sure but it is not really as common a problem as a lot of people think and I see nothing in his setup that would be an impaction risk.
I do have a few questions that if you can answer may help figure out what is going on with your dragon.
-When you feed the pellet food to your dragon are you pre-moistening it or feeding it dry to him? The pelleted food should never be offered dry as it can contribute to dehydration when fed that way so it should be soaked in water until it is soft and moist first.
-What type of UV Light are you using? Your dragon needs a 10.0 or 10% UV bulb. I recommend either ReptiGlo or ReptiSun as I have used both with great success.
-Why would you want to place a water dish in the enclosure? Most bearded dragon do not recognize standing water as something they can drink and therefore will not drink from it. They instead get moisture from the veggies and live feeders that you offer them and from the mists and baths you give them. They will absorb water through their skin as well as through their vents when you soak them.
Bearded dragons are also dry climate desert creatures and as such don't require or want high humidity in their home. The water dish you have will do nothing but raise the humidity so it is best to remove it all together.
-In your picture I noticed a lot of cloudy film on the glass near the top of the basking log where you said your dragon stays most of the time. Is that dirt smear or has he been sneezing on the glass? Reason being is that if he has been sneezing and that is from a discharge then it could be a sign of a respiratory infection. If that is the case then a vet visit may be called for.

You said that you are using analog thermometers. Those types of thermometers are notorius for giving inaccurate readings. For a tank set-up the only reliable and accurate way to ensure you have the temps correct is to use the digital thermometers with remote probes. These are not very expensive. You can find them for instance at PetSmart for about $9 each. Get the ones found in the aquarium section. The same thermometer basically in the reptile section will cost a little more.
You need to purchase two (2) of these thermometers. Attach the probe of one directly to the basking spot to get an accurate basking spot temp. It has to be attached directly to you log and not on the glass or you will get an inaccurate reading. The second thermometer probe needs to be attached at the coolest spot in your set up. Again attach it directly to the spot. If you attach it for instance to the glass then you will get the temp of the glass not necessarily the spot you are trying to read.
The Basking Spot temp needs to be 110 degrees during the day and the cool side temp needs to be 80-85 degrees.

-Have you made any changes recently to his enclosure? Has there been an increase in traffic or noise around his enclosure recently? Has he been being handled more than usual recently? Reason being is that these creatures are also very sensitive to changes in their environment and they stress very easily. Sometimes even a slight change in their "normal" environment can cause them to stress out.
I am telling you this because the first thing most creatures do when they are stressed out is that they stop eating. This is one of the main reasons when getting a new dragon that it is advisable not to handle or fool with them any more than necessary until they have time to acclimate to their new home. This can take 10+ days sometimes and any time there has been a change in their environment that have to be given time to re-acclimate.

There is also a seasonal change going on as you know. These dragons feel that seasonal change even though we try to keep them in a controlled setting. Seasonal changes are environmental changes so he could be stressing a little because of that.

-It is also quite possible that your dragon is about to go into a shed. It is quite normal and common for them to be mood or cut back on eating when they are shedding or about to. The soak you gave him will help with that discomfort.

First thing I would do would be to get the digital thermometers and make absolutely sure that your temperatures are correct. These are critical as they play a major role in your dragons healthy and well-being.
I would remove the water bowl from his enclosure as it is not needed.
I would continue to offer him food both veggies and live prey as usual.
I would double check him for any signs of a respiratory infection.
I would also watch for any more of more red in his poo when he does go and look at it closely to see if it looks like red from the food or blood.
I would also give him a bath a couple of times a week, 20-25 minutes a time and make sure the water is 105-110 degrees. I prefer 105. (You will need a good thermometer for this too. I use a 2 dollar digital thermometer like people use to check their temp and it works great for checking water temp)

I would also make one other adjustment to your setup. The basking light and UV light need to both be positioned on one side of the tank so that they both shine down on the basking spot. It will be a little difficult with the fixtures you have but if you will move them then your dragon will get the best UV light as he will spend the majority of his time on his basking spot.

Here is a diagram of where they should be placed in your setup.

Let me know the info I asked about and if I can help more and keep us updated

 

[Bk7]

It's not unusal for dragons not to eat for a few days and it is also not unusual for them to not poop for even several days. If they aren't really eating then it would make sense that they wouldn't be pooping. Food that they eat can also take up to 36 hours or more to process through their system.
I read that he did pass some kind of poop and it is possible that the red colour that you saw is from the red pellets that you said you offer to him as some of those pellets are heavily dyed.
Impaction is a scary thing for sure but it is not really as common a problem as a lot of people think and I see nothing in his setup that would be an impaction risk.
I do have a few questions that if you can answer may help figure out what is going on with your dragon.
-When you feed the pellet food to your dragon are you pre-moistening it or feeding it dry to him? The pelleted food should never be offered dry as it can contribute to dehydration when fed that way so it should be soaked in water until it is soft and moist first.
-What type of UV Light are you using? Your dragon needs a 10.0 or 10% UV bulb. I recommend either ReptiGlo or ReptiSun as I have used both with great success.
-Why would you want to place a water dish in the enclosure? Most bearded dragon do not recognize standing water as something they can drink and therefore will not drink from it. They instead get moisture from the veggies and live feeders that you offer them and from the mists and baths you give them. They will absorb water through their skin as well as through their vents when you soak them.
Bearded dragons are also dry climate desert creatures and as such don't require or want high humidity in their home. The water dish you have will do nothing but raise the humidity so it is best to remove it all together.
-In your picture I noticed a lot of cloudy film on the glass near the top of the basking log where you said your dragon stays most of the time. Is that dirt smear or has he been sneezing on the glass? Reason being is that if he has been sneezing and that is from a discharge then it could be a sign of a respiratory infection. If that is the case then a vet visit may be called for.

You said that you are using analog thermometers. Those types of thermometers are notorius for giving inaccurate readings. For a tank set-up the only reliable and accurate way to ensure you have the temps correct is to use the digital thermometers with remote probes. These are not very expensive. You can find them for instance at PetSmart for about $9 each. Get the ones found in the aquarium section. The same thermometer basically in the reptile section will cost a little more.
You need to purchase two (2) of these thermometers. Attach the probe of one directly to the basking spot to get an accurate basking spot temp. It has to be attached directly to you log and not on the glass or you will get an inaccurate reading. The second thermometer probe needs to be attached at the coolest spot in your set up. Again attach it directly to the spot. If you attach it for instance to the glass then you will get the temp of the glass not necessarily the spot you are trying to read.
The Basking Spot temp needs to be 110 degrees during the day and the cool side temp needs to be 80-85 degrees.

-Have you made any changes recently to his enclosure? Has there been an increase in traffic or noise around his enclosure recently? Has he been being handled more than usual recently? Reason being is that these creatures are also very sensitive to changes in their environment and they stress very easily. Sometimes even a slight change in their "normal" environment can cause them to stress out.
I am telling you this because the first thing most creatures do when they are stressed out is that they stop eating. This is one of the main reasons when getting a new dragon that it is advisable not to handle or fool with them any more than necessary until they have time to acclimate to their new home. This can take 10+ days sometimes and any time there has been a change in their environment that have to be given time to re-acclimate.

There is also a seasonal change going on as you know. These dragons feel that seasonal change even though we try to keep them in a controlled setting. Seasonal changes are environmental changes so he could be stressing a little because of that.

-It is also quite possible that your dragon is about to go into a shed. It is quite normal and common for them to be mood or cut back on eating when they are shedding or about to. The soak you gave him will help with that discomfort.

First thing I would do would be to get the digital thermometers and make absolutely sure that your temperatures are correct. These are critical as they play a major role in your dragons healthy and well-being.
I would remove the water bowl from his enclosure as it is not needed.
I would continue to offer him food both veggies and live prey as usual.
I would double check him for any signs of a respiratory infection.
I would also watch for any more of more red in his poo when he does go and look at it closely to see if it looks like red from the food or blood.
I would also give him a bath a couple of times a week, 20-25 minutes a time and make sure the water is 105-110 degrees. I prefer 105. (You will need a good thermometer for this too. I use a 2 dollar digital thermometer like people use to check their temp and it works great for checking water temp)

I would also make one other adjustment to your setup. The basking light and UV light need to both be positioned on one side of the tank so that they both shine down on the basking spot. It will be a little difficult with the fixtures you have but if you will move them then your dragon will get the best UV light as he will spend the majority of his time on his basking spot.

Here is a diagram of where they should be placed in your setup.

Let me know the info I asked about and if I can help more and keep us updated

Very informative post. I have a question too in regards to you saying no water bowl. I am also new to bd care and although i did allot of research i never came across that before. Any way my question is, is it a bad thing to have a water bowl if it is very shallow (about half an inch of water) and is changed daily. Because my beardie does drink from his occasionally, maybe twice since I have had him (one month). He also defecates in the bowl every day. The water is changed as soon as i see it too just in case u where wondering. I still mist his enclosure once a day. I just don't want to stress him out by taking it out so any input is appreciated.

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

If he has only drank from the dish twice in an entire month I would consider that more of a fluke. I really do not think he will miss the water dish in the least and will probably enjoy the drier climate in his enclosure much more. It is up to you of course if you choose to leave the water dish but it is not in his best interest. I do know that it makes things easier if he uses it as a toilet as far as you only having to dump the bowl. I also have an iguana who will loves to dump in his pool but truly cleaning up poop is just part of being a dragon keeper and it would be just as easy for you to take some tissue and clean your dragons "present" up. You will also have the knowledge that you are doing something healthier for him.
And if he stresses a little for a couple of days don't worry cause he will get over it and believe me he will find another favorite spot to poop in no time.
Enjoy!!

 

[Bk7]

thanks allot! I'm going to remove the water bowl first thing in the morning. You are right it is good to know u did something good for your little guy. it will actually be less work to just get rid of it. Having to take the bowl to the kitchen and rinse it with hot water everyday to clean it out would be harder than just picking poo up with a napkin and tossing it. That will just be a little more floor space for Pablo to enjoy.

 

[deardally]

It's not unusal for dragons not to eat for a few days and it is also not unusual for them to not poop for even several days. If they aren't really eating then it would make sense that they wouldn't be pooping. Food that they eat can also take up to 36 hours or more to process through their system.
I read that he did pass some kind of poop and it is possible that the red colour that you saw is from the red pellets that you said you offer to him as some of those pellets are heavily dyed.
Impaction is a scary thing for sure but it is not really as common a problem as a lot of people think and I see nothing in his setup that would be an impaction risk.
I do have a few questions that if you can answer may help figure out what is going on with your dragon.
-When you feed the pellet food to your dragon are you pre-moistening it or feeding it dry to him? The pelleted food should never be offered dry as it can contribute to dehydration when fed that way so it should be soaked in water until it is soft and moist first.
-What type of UV Light are you using? Your dragon needs a 10.0 or 10% UV bulb. I recommend either ReptiGlo or ReptiSun as I have used both with great success.
-Why would you want to place a water dish in the enclosure? Most bearded dragon do not recognize standing water as something they can drink and therefore will not drink from it. They instead get moisture from the veggies and live feeders that you offer them and from the mists and baths you give them. They will absorb water through their skin as well as through their vents when you soak them.
Bearded dragons are also dry climate desert creatures and as such don't require or want high humidity in their home. The water dish you have will do nothing but raise the humidity so it is best to remove it all together.
-In your picture I noticed a lot of cloudy film on the glass near the top of the basking log where you said your dragon stays most of the time. Is that dirt smear or has he been sneezing on the glass? Reason being is that if he has been sneezing and that is from a discharge then it could be a sign of a respiratory infection. If that is the case then a vet visit may be called for.

You said that you are using analog thermometers. Those types of thermometers are notorius for giving inaccurate readings. For a tank set-up the only reliable and accurate way to ensure you have the temps correct is to use the digital thermometers with remote probes. These are not very expensive. You can find them for instance at PetSmart for about $9 each. Get the ones found in the aquarium section. The same thermometer basically in the reptile section will cost a little more.
You need to purchase two (2) of these thermometers. Attach the probe of one directly to the basking spot to get an accurate basking spot temp. It has to be attached directly to you log and not on the glass or you will get an inaccurate reading. The second thermometer probe needs to be attached at the coolest spot in your set up. Again attach it directly to the spot. If you attach it for instance to the glass then you will get the temp of the glass not necessarily the spot you are trying to read.
The Basking Spot temp needs to be 110 degrees during the day and the cool side temp needs to be 80-85 degrees.

-Have you made any changes recently to his enclosure? Has there been an increase in traffic or noise around his enclosure recently? Has he been being handled more than usual recently? Reason being is that these creatures are also very sensitive to changes in their environment and they stress very easily. Sometimes even a slight change in their "normal" environment can cause them to stress out.
I am telling you this because the first thing most creatures do when they are stressed out is that they stop eating. This is one of the main reasons when getting a new dragon that it is advisable not to handle or fool with them any more than necessary until they have time to acclimate to their new home. This can take 10+ days sometimes and any time there has been a change in their environment that have to be given time to re-acclimate.

There is also a seasonal change going on as you know. These dragons feel that seasonal change even though we try to keep them in a controlled setting. Seasonal changes are environmental changes so he could be stressing a little because of that.

-It is also quite possible that your dragon is about to go into a shed. It is quite normal and common for them to be mood or cut back on eating when they are shedding or about to. The soak you gave him will help with that discomfort.

First thing I would do would be to get the digital thermometers and make absolutely sure that your temperatures are correct. These are critical as they play a major role in your dragons healthy and well-being.
I would remove the water bowl from his enclosure as it is not needed.
I would continue to offer him food both veggies and live prey as usual.
I would double check him for any signs of a respiratory infection.
I would also watch for any more of more red in his poo when he does go and look at it closely to see if it looks like red from the food or blood.
I would also give him a bath a couple of times a week, 20-25 minutes a time and make sure the water is 105-110 degrees. I prefer 105. (You will need a good thermometer for this too. I use a 2 dollar digital thermometer like people use to check their temp and it works great for checking water temp)

I would also make one other adjustment to your setup. The basking light and UV light need to both be positioned on one side of the tank so that they both shine down on the basking spot. It will be a little difficult with the fixtures you have but if you will move them then your dragon will get the best UV light as he will spend the majority of his time on his basking spot.

Here is a diagram of where they should be placed in your setup.

Let me know the info I asked about and if I can help more and keep us updated

Mungi!

Thank you so much for your response. Right when i read you post i moved the lights like the picture, also i looked at the packaging for the lights and my UVB is 5.0, I didnt know which one to get and Petco said to get that one. I will try to get one as soon as possible but they are a bit pricey.

About the pellet food I mist it very well until the swell up. The glass has the smudge because I spray him, but after being on this forum for this day I realized I probably shouldn't do that and just stick to warm baths. I was worried then I researched about RI and he has no symptoms of it.


I had the water dish in there hoping he would drink from it or bath in it but im realizing I should just take it out.

Your feedback calmed me down a bit, and I really appreciate your help. I think since I have been moving things in and out due to the crickets being able to hide in the wood log, he may just be a bit stressed. And not offering crickets for three days didnt help either. Hopefully I will see improvement tomorrow, and I will make the corrections you mentioned.

THANK YOU!!
-Dallas

 

[deardally]

Update from last night,
So this morning I offered him/her food in a serperate tank, he just laid there barely moving, and the lights were on for about an hour before I fed him. After that I gave him a good long warm bath, he drank the water I dropped on his head so thats a good sign. But he doesnt move, barely even lifts his head.

This sounds like hes going into brumation, but hes too young right?

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

The fact that you have been moving things around is a very likely culprit and causing him to be a bit stressed. I would just watch him close...observe but not fiddle with him unnecessarily and see if he doesn't perk back up in a few days.
If he is still showing signs of not wanting to eat or showing signs of dehydration or noticeable weight-loss then it may be time to take him for a vet check up. But for the time being I would concentrate of eliminating stress for him and see if he doesn't start coming around.

You have to get the two digital probe thermometer as soon as possible and install them correctly though because if his temps are not truly correct then he will not be able to digest and thrive.

Here are a couple of observations:
Looking at your picture I would recommend taking the hide out(he doesn't really need it) and simplifying his enclosure to just a basking spot, single food dish and maybe a rock to help keep his nails trim. I would also move his food dish over closer to the basking log to make things easier for him. By simplifying things it will also not give the crickets places to hide. If the log has holes in it that they are getting into you can fill those holes or purchase a different piece of basking furniture. The crickets will still get under the reptile carpet though.
Another great alternative to the reptile carpet would be to go to Home Depot or Lowes and grab some slate tiles. You want the ones with a tooth or texture on them as opposed to ones that are slick so that he can walk on them easily. Granite, Slate or any natural feeling one will do.
It looks like you have a 20 gallon Long Critter Cage Tank. If that is the case the all you will need is Two(2) 12 x 12 tiles and Two(2) 6 x 6 tiles. 12 x 12 tiles are only a couple of dollars a piece and the 6 x 6 tiles are usually less than a dollar a piece.
These four tiles will pop right in and cover the floor with no trimming needed. You will see a small gap of maybe a quarter inch between the glass and tiles, You don't really have to worry about that but I by 1/4" clear aquarium tubing (from Home Depot or Lowes) and push it into the gap to close it off. This tubing is only a few cents per foot.
Here is a picture of our Leopard Gecko Sir Galen's Enclosure showing the 4 tiles as I describes for flooring. It's a 20 gallon Long Critter Cage tank too. Galen is an adult LG so his world is much more furnished than you should furnish your little dragon's enclosure and his requirements are different, but you can get an idea of how the tile works. This is a cheap modification under 10 dollars most times, can be made in just a couple of minutes and once you do this you will eliminate places for the feeders to hide.

lol...you can just barely see Galen's nose in his house, more than likely perturbed at me for disturbing his daytime snooze as he is nocturnal

Hope he starts coming around quickly
Enjoy!!

 

[deardally]

The tile is a good idea, I will look into doing that. But do you think since I have a 5.0 compact UVB bulb would that be a cause for my BD problems?

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

Absolutely it can cause problems because it is the wrong bulb for Bearded dragons. They require a 10.0 0r 10% UV bulb. I recommend ReptiSun or ReptiGLo tube type bulbs and usually 18" ones work best. Both work fine however ReptiSun is about twice the cost as ReptiGlo.
Without proper UV light your dragon can not digest his food properly and get the nutrients he needs. That could easily explain his tummy not feeling good.
Check your thread about MVB's for my reply for more info.
Enjoy!

 

[deardally]

Ok got it, I wont be able to do anything about it till friday, so I hope things will be ok. Your idea for the light fixture is very helpful, and I will try to make it where i can put it inside the cage.

Thank You so much for all your help!

 

[deardally]

So my beardie died today I feel like it couldnt have been the UVB becuase he kept getting worse everyday and he only started showing signs a week ago.

Do this sound wierd to you guys too?

 

[bouncer36]

I'm sorry for your loss of your dragon

 

[Bk7]

I'm sorry to here that. I wouldn't beat yourself up about it he/she was probably sick when u got her. I would just get your bd tank setup the way mungi's Buddha said and make sure all your temps are right with the probe thermometers and get u another little if u feel up to it tho. But for real tht is sad


One beardie. Four corns. One ball python. One Costa Rican boa.

 

[deardally]

Yeah thats what Im going to do.. I had just purchased the new light any everything but he/she was dead when I go home.. Im also going to get a BD from a reputable breeder. Does anyone know of one close to California.

 

[Bk7]

Check out Ben Siegel's reptiles on Facebook. He has daily auctions with all sorts of reptiles going for very cheap compared to retail value...great deals I got Pablo from them at a steal for just 28$ on an auction !

He came to me very healthy and bright and hasn't missed a feeding since I've had him. All my snakes came from him to. Overnight shipping and packaged correctly.


One beardie. Four corns. One ball python. One Costa Rican boa.

 

[deardally]

Ok cool, I will check it out. Pablo is really cool looking!

 

[Mungi's Buddha]

Really sorry to hear about the loss of your baby dragon. And I am glad that apparently you are not going to let that stop you from being a dragon keeper. You have learned a lot through this experience which if you use that knowledge gained will absolutely make you a better caretaker with your next.

My suggestion would be to not rush out to get a new dragon right away though but to instead take some time and get the enclosure setup right and to get the temperatures both right and stable. If you will be using the same enclosure and furnishings that you used previously then make sure to clean everything really well before introducing a new baby into it as there is always the chance that your last baby had a parasite infection that was the cause of his passing. You don't want to take a chance on your new one getting that.
Best thing to use for cleaning is a 10% bleach solution (10% bleach/90% water). You can wash all of your furnishings in that solution. Your wood perch should not be allowed to soak in it though but you can scrub it good with the solution and then everything needs to be thoroughly rinsed with clean water and allowed to air dry. The wood perch and any furnishing that will not melt should then be placed in a 225 degree oven for 30 minutes to ensure that any parasites the bleach didn't get are killed. The other furnishings that would melt can instead be placed in your refrigerator freezer overnight which will accomplish the same thing.
Your tank can be washed with the same solution, rinsed thoroughly with clean water and then allowed to air dry completely before you reset up everything.

Once you have everything cleaned and setup and his temps accurate and stable then you can start your search for a new dragon. Having his new home ready and right beforehand will make things much easier on him when he gets there and his acclimation go smoother.

I think you are very wise on planning to find a good breeder as you are more likely to get a healthy baby dragon to start with from a good reputable one.There are many good ones out there but were is me and with Wintertime fast approaching my first place to look would be on your local CraigsList. In our area Craigslist is where a lot of the local breeders and "reptile folk" advertise so it's a good source to check. You can also check listings within driving distance of you which will allow you to possibly find a source where you can go and pick up your new dragon and save him the stress of being shipped to you. It would also allow you to check the breeder out in person to see if they take care of their dragons well before you shell out your cash.

My last choice would be to have it shipped as it is stressful on the creature any time and even more so in cold weather even when they package them right with heat packs. Someone else on the forum just got a brand new dragon shipped the other day and it arrived with no heat pack and she is in an area that is already experiencing cold weather. Not a good way to start your new dragon adventure

Again I am sorry to hear that your little one passed. It is always a sad event no matter how short or long we have them. The BDF Community is always here to help you in anyway we can when you are ready to try again

 

[deardally]

Thank you so much for all your help, I am going to completely wash the tank by how you said and also get the temp. accurate. Thank you so much!

 

[Aleena]

My deepest condolences on the loss of your dragon.