• Hello guest! Are you a Bearded Dragon enthusiast? If so we invite you to join our community and see what it has to offer. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's a great place for Beardie enthusiasts to meet online. Once you join you'll be able to post messages, upload pictures of your dragons and enclosures and have a great time with other Bearded Dragon enthusiasts. Sign up today!

Advice on Tank UVB Set-up?

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
Hi there,
I'm new to the forum so my apologies if this isn't the correct place to post this. I've also reviewed other threads and I can't quite find the "exact" answers to my particular situation. I've been reading as much as I can but I'm still a bit nervous in ensuring our set-up is as healthy as possible - I'd really appreciate any help anyone can offer <3

My boyfriend and I just adopted a beardie (12 mo. old approx). He came with a 40 gallon tank and the round style UVB bulb and basking bulb as well (sitting on top of tank). We are planning to upgrade the tank as I know the 40 gallon is on the small side. In the meantime though, we understand that tube UVB is the best. I've ordered a reptisun 24" (22" bulb) T5 HO terrarium hood w/ 10.0 UVB as we understand this is the best option for beardies. My understanding is that the T5's can sit on top of the tank. Here are my questions I'm hoping someone can help with:
  1. Is the 24"hood (22 inch bulb) the best for this sized tank? The tank is 36" long and 18" tall. The bulb will cover 2/3 the tank (as I understand those are the guidelines).
  2. I've been reading that the UVB should be 12 inches from the basking spot. I'm having a hard time understanding what this means as the tank is 18" tall and that would mean the basking spot couldn't be higher than 6 inches from the bottom (I feel like I'm interpreting this wrong - perhaps it means "within" 12 inches). I'm just worried if the UVB can be too close to the dragon. Any words of wisdom here would be appreciated!
  3. This is sort of related to #2, but are there any guidelines on how close/far the basking spot should be from the heat lamp? Right now the basking spot is a ramp style where the end of it suctions to the side of the cage, allowing us to control how high the beardie can go to his basking spot. I just want to ensure its not too high up/ close to the basking bulb/ lighting (which sits on top of the tank).
Sorry for the long winded post! Thank you again for your time and any advice :)
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
Hi there,
I'm new to the forum so my apologies if this isn't the correct place to post this. I've also reviewed other threads and I can't quite find the "exact" answers to my particular situation. I've been reading as much as I can but I'm still a bit nervous in ensuring our set-up is as healthy as possible - I'd really appreciate any help anyone can offer <3

My boyfriend and I just adopted a beardie (12 mo. old approx). He came with a 40 gallon tank and the round style UVB bulb and basking bulb as well (sitting on top of tank). We are planning to upgrade the tank as I know the 40 gallon is on the small side. In the meantime though, we understand that tube UVB is the best. I've ordered a reptisun 24" (22" bulb) T5 HO terrarium hood w/ 10.0 UVB as we understand this is the best option for beardies. My understanding is that the T5's can sit on top of the tank. Here are my questions I'm hoping someone can help with:
  1. Is the 24"hood (22 inch bulb) the best for this sized tank? The tank is 36" long and 18" tall. The bulb will cover 2/3 the tank (as I understand those are the guidelines).
  2. I've been reading that the UVB should be 12 inches from the basking spot. I'm having a hard time understanding what this means as the tank is 18" tall and that would mean the basking spot couldn't be higher than 6 inches from the bottom (I feel like I'm interpreting this wrong - perhaps it means "within" 12 inches). I'm just worried if the UVB can be too close to the dragon. Any words of wisdom here would be appreciated!
  3. This is sort of related to #2, but are there any guidelines on how close/far the basking spot should be from the heat lamp? Right now the basking spot is a ramp style where the end of it suctions to the side of the cage, allowing us to control how high the beardie can go to his basking spot. I just want to ensure its not too high up/ close to the basking bulb/ lighting (which sits on top of the tank).
Sorry for the long winded post! Thank you again for your time and any advice :)
Welcome and you have done your research well --- you want the UVB directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches -- that is inside the tank and for a fine mesh screen --- if its a wide hole type it can sit on top but it MUST be a wide hole type distance 8-10 inches directly above -- the screen will block 30% of the rays--
You do not want the basking bulb any closer that 6" --- your temp your getting w/ a digital probe thermometer is going to tell you what bulb you need -- the probe needs to sit on the spot where he sits for basking and it should be 95-100---
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
Welcome and you have done your research well --- you want the UVB directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches -- that is inside the tank and for a fine mesh screen --- if its a wide hole type it can sit on top but it MUST be a wide hole type distance 8-10 inches directly above -- the screen will block 30% of the rays--
You do not want the basking bulb any closer that 6" --- your temp your getting w/ a digital probe thermometer is going to tell you what bulb you need -- the probe needs to sit on the spot where he sits for basking and it should be 95-100---
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions; you have no idea how much I appreciate it!! Thank you for the information about the screen. I'm not sure what ours would be considered (see attached). Would you suggest something like this instead for a hood that sits on top (it looks like it may let a bit more light through)? :https://www.amazon.ca/Zilla-Reptile...s=terrarium+cover&qid=1624857861&rdc=1&sr=8-1 Thank you again!!
 

Attachments

  • 64654968456__C9F82E0A-CB29-4501-BC06-7A4F79993035.jpeg
    64654968456__C9F82E0A-CB29-4501-BC06-7A4F79993035.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 13

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my questions; you have no idea how much I appreciate it!! Thank you for the information about the screen. I'm not sure what ours would be considered (see attached). Would you suggest something like this instead for a hood that sits on top (it looks like it may let a bit more light through)? :https://www.amazon.ca/Zilla-Reptile...s=terrarium+cover&qid=1624857861&rdc=1&sr=8-1 Thank you again!!
That is considered a wide hole - the T 5 can sit on top but make sure your UVB is directly above the basking decor piece -- 8-10 inches -- watch his behavior for the first month or so -- any funky behavior like him not eating not being active issues w/ pooping it is not uncommon for them not to poop every day then we would need to go over the placement of the UVB first --- but I am thinking it should be fine --
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
That is considered a wide hole - the T 5 can sit on top but make sure your UVB is directly above the basking decor piece -- 8-10 inches -- watch his behavior for the first month or so -- any funky behavior like him not eating not being active issues w/ pooping it is not uncommon for them not to poop every day then we would need to go over the placement of the UVB first --- but I am thinking it should be fine --
Thank you again; you've been so incredibly helpful! Really appreciate the time you've taken to respond. We will be watching him closely to see how he settles in with the new set-up :)
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
That is considered a wide hole - the T 5 can sit on top but make sure your UVB is directly above the basking decor piece -- 8-10 inches -- watch his behavior for the first month or so -- any funky behavior like him not eating not being active issues w/ pooping it is not uncommon for them not to poop every day then we would need to go over the placement of the UVB first --- but I am thinking it should be fine --
Hi again! I just wanted to thank you again for all of your help! We rec'd the new UVB set up a few weeks ago and it is incredible how big of a difference it has made.....our beardie was surfing like crazy before with the lamp/ coil UVB light he came with and seemed totally unsettled. As soon as we put the new UVB in, it was almost an immediate change....now he is not scratching at all...just basking and moving between the different gradients throughout the day. It's sad to think he's spent most of his life not getting enough of what he probably craved. Part of it was likely just settling in with his new owners but I think the UVB is the culprit for sure. Wow! Now our new quest is getting him to try veggies..LOL.....which we are seeing some progress with too! THANK YOU!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
Hi again! I just wanted to thank you again for all of your help! We rec'd the new UVB set up a few weeks ago and it is incredible how big of a difference it has made.....our beardie was surfing like crazy before with the lamp/ coil UVB light he came with and seemed totally unsettled. As soon as we put the new UVB in, it was almost an immediate change....now he is not scratching at all...just basking and moving between the different gradients throughout the day. It's sad to think he's spent most of his life not getting enough of what he probably craved. Part of it was likely just settling in with his new owners but I think the UVB is the culprit for sure. Wow! Now our new quest is getting him to try veggies..LOL.....which we are seeing some progress with too! THANK YOU!
You might try some BSFL https://symtonbsf.com/ order large DO NOT DUST--- they are a great lure to the salad bowl - use them on top of his salads feed as many as you want as they are a good staple feeder -- mainly for babies since they are so small and it takes alot to feed a adult dragon but you can use them supplement them w/ your main staple feeder --- you will need a glass or ceramic bowl to keep them in --
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
You might try some BSFL https://symtonbsf.com/ order large DO NOT DUST--- they are a great lure to the salad bowl - use them on top of his salads feed as many as you want as they are a good staple feeder -- mainly for babies since they are so small and it takes alot to feed a adult dragon but you can use them supplement them w/ your main staple feeder --- you will need a glass or ceramic bowl to keep them in --
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
This is awesome, Sadie! I just did a bunch of research on BSFL and plan on grabbing some from the pet store in the nearest town over. I've ordered the ceramic dish too!! Wish me luck :) Thanks again; you are a gem!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
This is awesome, Sadie! I just did a bunch of research on BSFL and plan on grabbing some from the pet store in the nearest town over. I've ordered the ceramic dish too!! Wish me luck :) Thanks again; you are a gem!
Hope this helps let me know how it goes :)
 

Hadenuffyet

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
180
If you really want your uvb inside the tank, not much to it. Some flat metal from hardware and a metal bladed hacksaw. Drill some holes and mount the fixture and it sits under the cover. My lid has a notch removed for the wiring so lid lays flat. I can send pics, let me know.
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
If you really want your uvb inside the tank, not much to it. Some flat metal from hardware and a metal bladed hacksaw. Drill some holes and mount the fixture and it sits under the cover. My lid has a notch removed for the wiring so lid lays flat. I can send pics, let me know.
Thank you so much, Hadenuffyet!! We are actually planning on upgrading our tank in the Fall (right now we only have a 40 gallon that our new 1 year old beardie came in :( ), I may need to take you up on that offer depending on what we find :)
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
Hope this helps let me know how it goes :)
Hi Sadie!! So unfortunately I haven't had any luck with the BSFL yet (the pet store three hours away was out when I went and there have been insect shortages due to the heatwave we've had!!) but good news is we have a new store opening up in my town which is amazing! So i think I will be able to get reliable source for them, as well as crickets! That being said, we've had more success with him eating salads - everyday he eats a little more than before which is promising. I'm excited to add the BSFL for the added enticement LOL.

So....I was hoping I could once again take advantage of your unending expertise and ask about the recommended adult feeding schedule. My understanding is that because my beardie is an adult they should be fed their staple feeder 2-3 times a week. Where I'm stuck is, how many crix roughly would be a good guideline. I've read that it can be however many they can eat in a 15 minute period, but I'm not totally sure how to facilitate that as we have been buying 250 crickets at a time and they are in a big tub (logistically this seems tricky LOL). We usually grab them one by one and have a little area where we feed our beardie (we try to get him to chase each one and make an activity out of it - its super cute to see him stalk them). Based on what I've read, I'm wondering if 12-15 would be reasonable, along with 1-2 superworms (calcium dusted). Cricket size being 4 or 5 weeks (less than the space between his eyes). I've also ordered a multi-vitamin (w/out D3)- but I need to do more research on this (timing and quantity) prior to integrating it with the schedule we have for the Calcium w/ D3. Sorry this is really long winded so don't feel obligated to respond! Thank you again for all of your help - and I hope you are having a nice week so far :)
 

Lovethemhappy

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
21
Hi Sadie!! So unfortunately I haven't had any luck with the BSFL yet (the pet store three hours away was out when I went and there have been insect shortages due to the heatwave we've had!!) but good news is we have a new store opening up in my town which is amazing! So i think I will be able to get reliable source for them, as well as crickets! That being said, we've had more success with him eating salads - everyday he eats a little more than before which is promising. I'm excited to add the BSFL for the added enticement LOL.

So....I was hoping I could once again take advantage of your unending expertise and ask about the recommended adult feeding schedule. My understanding is that because my beardie is an adult they should be fed their staple feeder 2-3 times a week. Where I'm stuck is, how many crix roughly would be a good guideline. I've read that it can be however many they can eat in a 15 minute period, but I'm not totally sure how to facilitate that as we have been buying 250 crickets at a time and they are in a big tub (logistically this seems tricky LOL). We usually grab them one by one and have a little area where we feed our beardie (we try to get him to chase each one and make an activity out of it - its super cute to see him stalk them). Based on what I've read, I'm wondering if 12-15 would be reasonable, along with 1-2 superworms (calcium dusted). Cricket size being 4 or 5 weeks (less than the space between his eyes). I've also ordered a multi-vitamin (w/out D3)- but I need to do more research on this (timing and quantity) prior to integrating it with the schedule we have for the Calcium w/ D3. Sorry this is really long winded so don't feel obligated to respond! Thank you again for all of your help - and I hope you are having a nice week so far :)
Some may consider 13 months a sub adult still. You can back this with the many growth charts out there. Full length may be achieved in 12 months, but adult size reached at 18 months. You do not want them to negate the greens due to protein offerings, but an insect offering daily, may still be good at this age. As to the question above... Most of what you said, is why most stop feeding crickets. They can be a pain. Dubai roaches can be put in a feeding bowl, and not escape. I know they are not allowable in some areas, so maybe research a substitute. They also are easier to maintain outside of feeding. Way less die off, smell, escapes, noise... If you are at that stage of life where the transition to 80/20 greens to protein is occurring, then maybe do half meals. You could try 5 roaches the size of the spacing between his eyes, and see if they go bask soon after, or are energetic and hungry for a while after. This small meal is your opportunity to administer the vitamins. If you search Sadies' posts, you will find much about vitamin schedules. Hope this helps.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
Hi Sadie!! So unfortunately I haven't had any luck with the BSFL yet (the pet store three hours away was out when I went and there have been insect shortages due to the heatwave we've had!!) but good news is we have a new store opening up in my town which is amazing! So i think I will be able to get reliable source for them, as well as crickets! That being said, we've had more success with him eating salads - everyday he eats a little more than before which is promising. I'm excited to add the BSFL for the added enticement LOL.

So....I was hoping I could once again take advantage of your unending expertise and ask about the recommended adult feeding schedule. My understanding is that because my beardie is an adult they should be fed their staple feeder 2-3 times a week. Where I'm stuck is, how many crix roughly would be a good guideline. I've read that it can be however many they can eat in a 15 minute period, but I'm not totally sure how to facilitate that as we have been buying 250 crickets at a time and they are in a big tub (logistically this seems tricky LOL). We usually grab them one by one and have a little area where we feed our beardie (we try to get him to chase each one and make an activity out of it - its super cute to see him stalk them). Based on what I've read, I'm wondering if 12-15 would be reasonable, along with 1-2 superworms (calcium dusted). Cricket size being 4 or 5 weeks (less than the space between his eyes). I've also ordered a multi-vitamin (w/out D3)- but I need to do more research on this (timing and quantity) prior to integrating it with the schedule we have for the Calcium w/ D3. Sorry this is really long winded so don't feel obligated to respond! Thank you again for all of your help - and I hope you are having a nice week so far :)
I would recommend you start getting your insects of line --- many here tried to buy from pet stores over this last winter and had a hard time getting them because they were all out and didnt know when they were getting them in - I have many websites I can post for you that are pretty reliable - the best thing to do is get a 10 gallon aquarium and order around 200 of them and let them breed in the tank but before you do that try him on dubias some dragons wont eat them so do a trial before you get that many www.dubiaroaches.com - I did not intentionally start a colony but mine just bred over time and I have not had to order roaches for a long time - the only thing I have been ordering is super worms horn worms and butter worms but those I have not ordered for quite awhile along w/ silks - my dragons have mainly been getting salads and super worms - like mentioned crickets are a pain in the butt -- dubias are easier to keep and dont die off as fast as crickets do - the calcium D3 frequency is going to be determined by the UVB your using - if your using a T 5 the calcium D3 should not be given as often -- regular calcium w/ NO D3 and NO phosphorus should be given - if your feeding crickets smaller size than what he can eat hes going to eat more to fill up- they usually say to cut back on the feedings of the insects around a year old making it only one feeding per day and not two - if hes eating good salads variety you can also cut back on the vitamins as well as hes going to get lots of nutrition from those veggies hes getting - he will eat less roaches than crickets they are more filling- its hard to say how many exactly of crickets as I never fed them for very long to my older one - he didnt like them and went for the roaches instead - I would feed the both crickets and roaches one at a time and see how many he will eat - they usually will stop when they are full -
I would only give 1-3 supers every other day or so let me know what your UVB is and I can help w/ the calcium
 

Kdave888

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
8
I would recommend you start getting your insects of line --- many here tried to buy from pet stores over this last winter and had a hard time getting them because they were all out and didnt know when they were getting them in - I have many websites I can post for you that are pretty reliable - the best thing to do is get a 10 gallon aquarium and order around 200 of them and let them breed in the tank but before you do that try him on dubias some dragons wont eat them so do a trial before you get that many www.dubiaroaches.com - I did not intentionally start a colony but mine just bred over time and I have not had to order roaches for a long time - the only thing I have been ordering is super worms horn worms and butter worms but those I have not ordered for quite awhile along w/ silks - my dragons have mainly been getting salads and super worms - like mentioned crickets are a pain in the butt -- dubias are easier to keep and dont die off as fast as crickets do - the calcium D3 frequency is going to be determined by the UVB your using - if your using a T 5 the calcium D3 should not be given as often -- regular calcium w/ NO D3 and NO phosphorus should be given - if your feeding crickets smaller size than what he can eat hes going to eat more to fill up- they usually say to cut back on the feedings of the insects around a year old making it only one feeding per day and not two - if hes eating good salads variety you can also cut back on the vitamins as well as hes going to get lots of nutrition from those veggies hes getting - he will eat less roaches than crickets they are more filling- its hard to say how many exactly of crickets as I never fed them for very long to my older one - he didnt like them and went for the roaches instead - I would feed the both crickets and roaches one at a time and see how many he will eat - they usually will stop when they are full -
I would only give 1-3 supers every other day or so let me know what your UVB is and I can help w/ the calcium
Thank you Sadie! You are so generous with your time; thank you so much!! Unfortunately I can't get dubia roaches - apparently they are illegal here in Canada....so, I'm stuck with crix and super worms for staples :( I did however find a good company online that do bulk crickets!! They are relatively close and do two day shipping which is awesome :) I also watched a ton of videos last night on breeding crickets so that is a really good option. As for my lighting, we are using a T5 reptisun 10.0 (22"). I've been giving superworms every other day so I am glad I'm on the right track with that one :) I will try the approach of feeding him until he gets full though (I was initially nervous about trying that in case I might accidentally overfeed but its good to know he will likely stop when he is full!) I will order the calcium without D3 so that we have that on hand as well :)
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,835
Thank you Sadie! You are so generous with your time; thank you so much!! Unfortunately I can't get dubia roaches - apparently they are illegal here in Canada....so, I'm stuck with crix and super worms for staples :( I did however find a good company online that do bulk crickets!! They are relatively close and do two day shipping which is awesome :) I also watched a ton of videos last night on breeding crickets so that is a really good option. As for my lighting, we are using a T5 reptisun 10.0 (22"). I've been giving superworms every other day so I am glad I'm on the right track with that one :) I will try the approach of feeding him until he gets full though (I was initially nervous about trying that in case I might accidentally overfeed but its good to know he will likely stop when he is full!) I will order the calcium without D3 so that we have that on hand as well :)
Try silk worms too they are a great staple feeder as well
 

Latest posts

Top