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Stressed Beardie..won't eat!

BeardieBaby

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
516
Location
Massachusetts
Hello everyone! So just yesterday I moved my beardie into a little bit of a larger tank and I kept his smaller cage so that I could feed him crickets. When I put him in the smaller tank this morning to feed him his crickets he was scared and only ate 2 when he usually hes 8 or 10! I am so afraid he is going to get sick if he continues to refuse to eat. When he is in his bigger tank he doesn't seem all that stressed out but I am assuming he is because he won't eat. Should I feed him in the larger tank or should I continue to try to feed him in the smaller tank? I just think if I try to feed him in the larger tank he won't be able to catch the crickets on his own. Should I not worry so much and just assume he'll eventually get used to it?? I don't know what to do!! Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks!!
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
If you don't clutter the new larger enclosure with lots of places for the crix to hide, your BD will do just fine. Moving him into a new environment is very similar to when you first brought him home, he will need to acclimate, which may very well affect his appetite. Feeding in a separate enclosure is okay if absolutely necessary, but if possible, it is better & will likely help with the acclimation if it is fed in it's enclosure so the stress of moving it back & forth does not compound the issue & allow for as stress free a transition as possible.

Post some pics & show off it's new home :D.
 

BeardieBaby

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
516
Location
Massachusetts
Ok! You can't see the UVB tube by the angle the picture was taking but its under there to the right :) Don't know if I should add anything else to it so I am glad I am putting up pictures! Any suggestions are welcomed! Oh, and that dome that is far to the left is not on right now its the infrared light but I keep it there to keep them all together. I feel like I should add more to it, but at the same time I definitely don't want to clutter it!!
baby tank.jpg
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
This going to sound like I'm really tearing your enclosure apart, well I am.

The thermometer you are using are not suitable for this application & is placed no where near where the Temps should be taken, which should be directly at the basking spot. A digital thermometer with a sensor\probe that can be placed or attached directly at\to the Basking Spot should be used for a full screen topped enclosure. There have been many, many posts on this subject. The ones below are just a few. Those hides provide too many dark Hiding spots for the feeders, because most are nocturnal & that is the first place they will run to, to get away from the light. The one under the basking light would be like an oven inside. Most BDs will rarely ever use a hide, many don't provide one for a Young BD because if it does choose to hide for extended periods of time, it keeps them from receiving the heat & UVB required. Older BDs may use them for Brumation. Providing 3 is overkill. One on the cool side, if at all, is more than enough.

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/i...w-baby-beardy-need-advice.5506/#axzz21SyIG6eH

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/gagging-beardie.5666/#axzz21SydDrki

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/index.php?threads/my-new-baby-beardie.6162/#axzz21SwaU8Uc

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/i...-help-anyone-who-can-help.6254/#axzz21SvpU66n

http://www.beardeddragonforum.com/i...lly-boy-hes-super-silly-p.6329/#axzz21SywnQCQ

What do you use the infrared light for? Night Heat\Light? Night heat is not needed or wanted unless your ambient room temps drop below the mid to low 60s F at night. BDs should be allowed to cool at night, slows their metabolism down for a good nights sleep. Night lights of any color will bother most BDs sleep. Should night heat be absolutely necessary because the temps do drop below the above mentioned temps at night, a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) should be used to provide heat with no light emitted. There have also been many, many threads on this subject, if you care to do a search for them.

Good Luck
 

BeardieBaby

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
516
Location
Massachusetts
Thanks for the recommendation! I have a favor to ask you, Germ....I was wondering if you could post a picture of one of your habitats to give me an example of what it should look like..I would appreciate it!
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
Example of a Basic Setup: Showing the recommended Basic requirements, proper Temperatures & the points at which they should be measured from, in Red & the optional choices that are actually used in this particular example enclosure, in Black.​

BDsetup-1.jpg

If you click on my signature, it will take you to my personal website, there are many pictures & videos that show my enclosures.
 

blackclaw83

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
208
Location
Copperas Cove Tx
Germ did the same to mine LOL and it took him A LONG while to get everything through my thick skull ...but he is full of knowledge. I had those thermos before. and i will tell you when i went out and finally picked up the digi one OMG :D;):D what a differance. Those kind were giving me such a bad reading. They were telling me it was 110, when in fact it was 120......Good thing Spazz is smarter then me or else we would be having BBqEd critter
 

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