Signs of Metabolic Bone Disease

[Karsong]

Hello community, we recently upgraded our beardie into a larger 4x2x2' enclosure...week three has gone by and our beardie has been lethargic, not eating as much. I just moved his lights off of the top of the mesh cover and into the enclosure. Temperature varies in the hot zones from 100-121 at times...as I am struggling to find the right balance.

But what's even more horrifying is that I think I may have caused our beardie to have an early stage of metabolic bone disease from the inconsistent lighting and temperature. T_T (heartbreaking that I messed this up) Our beardie cannot current stand on his hind legs and is sliding around...If the lighting is fixed could it stop this from happening? Should I just go ahead and take him to the vet? (we just contacted them, but have to wait till Monday)

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Sadie]

Hello community, we recently upgraded our beardie into a larger 4x2x2' enclosure...week three has gone by and our beardie has been lethargic, not eating as much. I just moved his lights off of the top of the mesh cover and into the enclosure. Temperature varies in the hot zones from 100-121 at times...as I am struggling to find the right balance.

But what's even more horrifying is that I think I may have caused our beardie to have an early stage of metabolic bone disease from the inconsistent lighting and temperature. T_T (heartbreaking that I messed this up) Our beardie cannot current stand on his hind legs and is sliding around...If the lighting is fixed could it stop this from happening? Should I just go ahead and take him to the vet? (we just contacted them, but have to wait till Monday)

Any advice would be much appreciated.

The UVB is what brand and bulb? If its a coil please get rid of it--- is it possible you have fed the dragon two big of a insect? How old is the dragon? Please answer these questions and I can help you better

 

[Karsong]

I am using a T10 bulb (agree, no coil) and he most recently was fed a few mealworms to help fatten him up...as he looked like he was loosing weight.

Could that be the reason? Impaction?

Regular diet consists of:
- dubias
- crickets
- Phoenix worms
(Mixed kale, sometimes carrots and apples)

one other thing that I have been doing was giving him a bath every day, where it has helped him release his stools...

 

[Karsong]

I am using a T10 bulb (agree, no coil) and he most recently was fed a few mealworms to help fatten him up...as he looked like he was loosing weight.

Could that be the reason? Impaction?

Regular diet consists of:
- dubias
- crickets
- Phoenix worms
(Mixed kale, sometimes carrots and apples)

one other thing that I have been doing was giving him a bath every day, where it has helped him release his stools...

Rocky, our beardie is also 6 months old

 

[Sadie]

I am using a T10 bulb (agree, no coil) and he most recently was fed a few mealworms to help fatten him up...as he looked like he was loosing weight.

Could that be the reason? Impaction?

Regular diet consists of:
- dubias
- crickets
- Phoenix worms
(Mixed kale, sometimes carrots and apples)

one other thing that I have been doing was giving him a bath every day, where it has helped him release his stools...

Your using a T5 bulb --- and when was the last time he went poop? How old is the dragon ? You have two dragons or one? And hes 6 months old?

 

[Karsong]

He pooped this morning, a bit watery than usual. White part of his stools where there. Has not eaten however. Just one dragon, and he is 6mos old.

 

[Sadie]

He pooped this morning, a bit watery than usual. White part of his stools where there. Has not eaten however. Just one dragon, and he is 6mos old.

Hes not impacted --- but please no more meal worms--- I would not feed anymore of those till hes around 1 year old - you can feed super worms on his salad 1-3 every couple of days - here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder
UVB is a T 5 what brand are you using ? Is it a Reptisun or a Arcadia bulb? The bulb should be 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor --- Please post a pic of your tank

 

[Karsong]

Ok, noted on mealworms. Kept getting mixed info from PetCo on them will try super worms.

We are currently using a ZooMed light.

I have brought the light down closer to him. Much more than 12-15 inches. Do you think under 12” is too close?

attached is his setup as well as areas of his toes that look much more swollen...

 

[HoomanSlave]

If you suspect MBD, stay away from superworms. They are high in phosphorus and shouldn't be offered until he's in the clear.

 

[Karsong]

He also lifts his right leg up more

 

[Bailey]

If you don't already get a ReptiSun Linear UVB. Those coil UVB lights in the kits are no good for any kind of reptile!

Also mealworms are terrible for your dragon, I recommend crickets or dubias as a staple and superworms and hornworms as a treat. I know somebody who's beardie actually died from mealworms.

 

[Emilia Thuet]

Does he eat, poo, bask normally? And over all does he look physically healthy? Ike upright posture, alert attention, willingness to eat and bask? Besides his legs he does look healthy. I don’t think it’s mbd there are usually other signs, like swelling in the jaw or if his lower jaw bone is soft (you can check this yourself by lightly pressing under his chin and if it feels soft than it’s likely mbd), decrease in appetite, without proper uvb they can’t digest their food properly so they would stop eating. I also find when it comes to the legs it’s usually the front one that get mbd first, people may disagree with me and that is fine I understand. But I suggest taking him to the vet because it may just be a genetic disorder and you have a special needs dragon, (don’t worry I got one too and they are the best!) but make an appointment, I suggest to maybe do an x-ray to confirm or rule out mbd, bring pictures of your tank and all the info about it so the vet can also help you figure out any problems with your tank. Hope he gets better but he does look very healthy and happy though

 

[Julee1971]

Hello community, we recently upgraded our beardie into a larger 4x2x2' enclosure...week three has gone by and our beardie has been lethargic, not eating as much. I just moved his lights off of the top of the mesh cover and into the enclosure. Temperature varies in the hot zones from 100-121 at times...as I am struggling to find the right balance.

But what's even more horrifying is that I think I may have caused our beardie to have an early stage of metabolic bone disease from the inconsistent lighting and temperature. T_T (heartbreaking that I messed this up) Our beardie cannot current stand on his hind legs and is sliding around...If the lighting is fixed could it stop this from happening? Should I just go ahead and take him to the vet? (we just contacted them, but have to wait till Monday)

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi....
Yes u can reverse this ASAP but it’s gonna take work. First & asap get a Reptisun 10.0 T5 for UVB that’s the best & only recommend uvb source. Order from Amazon or find a petstore that has it. It has to be the 10.0 T5. The length u order should cover 70 percent of the length of the cage prolly 36 inches in length if your cage is 40. He needs Uvb ASAP, lots of protein & REPCAL calcium powder 6 times a week once per day sprinkle it on the crickets or dubia roaches and on the 7th day sprinkle only with herptivite vitamin powder. The heat should be a zoomed basking bulb 75 watt or 100Watt I use 75 amd it’s like 14inches away I had to raise mine to get the rite temp. As adults beardies like the basking temp around 95-98. Lower his basking platform or get a dog or cat pillow so u have a high or low basking spot u need a digital themrmoter by zoomed and place the probe on top of the basking platform till U get the right temp. But get the reptisun asap. Also NO colored red or balck bulbs ever during the day or at nite; they like pure dark when sleeping. Feed crickets and Dubia roaches only and lots of greens/veggies twice a day: mustard & collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, green beans & snap peas are the best everyday ones. Do 2fresh plates a day in the cold side mixed with 2greems & 2veggoes cut up so he can eat them. Lastly find a reptile vet for Vitamin D shots asap & slowly with lots of UVb and correct heat he will be back to normal slowly it will take 4-6months maybe sooner. Without UVB they can’t absorb vitamin D or breakdown the powder calcium which makes their bones brittle & they can’t walk & without proper heat they can’t eat or digest their food. Also make sure he can get to his basking spots place small flat stuffed animals or rolled up towels so he can get up and down safely if he falls he will break his bones; he has no strength rite now u have to help him. He can’t lift or claim or walk...get the UVb reptisun 10.0 T5 amd a ver for vitamin D shots. GLuck

 

[Thundercat]

Hello community, we recently upgraded our beardie into a larger 4x2x2' enclosure...week three has gone by and our beardie has been lethargic, not eating as much. I just moved his lights off of the top of the mesh cover and into the enclosure. Temperature varies in the hot zones from 100-121 at times...as I am struggling to find the right balance.

But what's even more horrifying is that I think I may have caused our beardie to have an early stage of metabolic bone disease from the inconsistent lighting and temperature. T_T (heartbreaking that I messed this up) Our beardie cannot current stand on his hind legs and is sliding around...If the lighting is fixed could it stop this from happening? Should I just go ahead and take him to the vet? (we just contacted them, but have to wait till Monday)

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[Thundercat]

sometimes when you change the habitat it takes time to adjust, so they may not eat right away. Its similar to when you first got them. Also get yourself a temperature gun so that you can get an accurate reading on there basking area. That seems a bit to hot. I would say between 95 to 110 is a appropriate temperature for that age. I would definitely take him to vet to make sure he doesn't have parasites, sometimes that changes their appetite. If that doesn't work try giving him baby food in the green beans to get something on his stomach. Definitely take him to get checked asap

 

[Julee1971]

I am using a T10 bulb (agree, no coil) and he most recently was fed a few mealworms to help fatten him up...as he looked like he was loosing weight.

Could that be the reason? Impaction?

Regular diet consists of:
- dubias
- crickets
- Phoenix worms
(Mixed kale, sometimes carrots and apples)

one other thing that I have been doing was giving him a bath every day, where it has helped him release his stools...

YES mealworms cause impaction And are Horrible for the beardies digestive system. Stay away from mealworms & stick to crickets & Dubias and u can do some super worms if the beardie is over a year old. Also a T5 reptisun emits way more UVB and brightness I. The tank which beardies need to thrive & have energy. Also remove any sand or coconut substrate they ingest it.

 

[Julee1971]

sometimes when you change the habitat it takes time to adjust, so they may not eat right away. Its similar to when you first got them. Also get yourself a temperature gun so that you can get an accurate reading on there basking area. That seems a bit to hot. I would say between 95 to 110 is a appropriate temperature for that age. I would definitely take him to vet to make sure he doesn't have parasites, sometimes that changes their appetite. If that doesn't work try giving him baby food in the green beans to get something on his stomach. Definitely take him to get checked asap

If he has runny or smelly stools and isn’t eating too much or eating & not pooping oval stools he had Coccidia. Take him to the vet ASAP make sure they Adminsiter Ponzuril of the bet knows what he’s doing it’s one dose of ponzuril & the 2nd dose u give 48 hours later. U need to burn the tank with hot water and all his furniture etc and use white terry cloths as substrate and remove his poop ASAP this causes Coccidia a dirty tank and stresss & liking or walking on the poop.