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Info needed on breeding beardies

Greg&Emily

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
1
I am not new to having bearded dragons. I've had them for about 2 years now and I have decided that I would like to start breeding them. I have done a lot of research for almost a year on how exactly I should go about this; however, I have run into a few questions. I get different information off of every site and every breeder. I am good with the egg laying process and incubation/dealing with the babies; I'm just more so worried about how to get started. I was hoping that somebody with a lot of experience in breeding bearded dragons could help me out a bit. I have attached a few pictures of the male and female.The female is the black and orange beardie. If you have an idea of what kind they are could you please let me know? thanks

Male:
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photo (3).JPG


Female:
photo (5).JPG
photo (6).JPG
photo (7).JPG

I have a male that will be 2 years old this April (2013) living in a 40 gallon tank. My female beardie is 3 years old living in a 45 gallon tank. I know that they are at the perfect ages to begin breeding. Both my female and male are very healthy. Neither of them have ever showed signs of aggression and both love to be handled so I would say they are very friendly. Their basking area temperatures are roughly around 100°F - 115°F. They both have enough UVB lighting. I just got the female that is 3 years old and as soon as my male noticed her he began to head bob, etc. I know that this is a sign that he is ready to mate. I allowed the male and female to meet on the ground outside of both of their enclosures. At first the male was doing his head bobbing and the female continued to remain standing still where she was. The male began to run around in circles and just went straight at her and bit the side of her neck before I could get the chance to stop him. HE IS WAY FASTER THAN I THOUGHT. I also know that the reason he bites the neck is so he can get a good grip to mount her. However the female did not try to run away and I also read that they may just allow the male to mount them. Could the reason that she did not try to run away be because they were outside of there enclosures and she was uncomfortable with the area? I also read that I should never put the female in the males enclosure because males tend to be more aggressive and territorial.

Another thing was this whole thing about a 2-3 month "brumation" period. Do they need this brumation period? I am asking this because I have read that the reason you put them through this period is to stimulate winter and this will cause them to want to breed. I also read that the reduced temperatures seem necessary to induce spermatogenesis. Is this true? My beardie is ready and won't stop head bobbing. So my question is do they need this brumation period even if they are extremely energetic and healthy?
One site told me that I should... "Allow the pair to remain together for one week and then remove him for a week. Return him to the her cage again for another week, and remove him again for another week. Finally, put him with the female for one more week." Whereas someone else told me that I should put the male in the females cage for a couple hours when you see that they have successfully done the breeding process take him out and repeat the same process again the next day. So another question I pose is how long should they be kept together for in the same enclosure? And what would be the best way to get them to breed effectively and where?
 

gilliesexotics

Super Moderator
Staff member
Messages
833
Location
Indiana
Hi, Hope this helps.
1. Both of your dragons appear to be normal with citrus coloring.
2. It is normal for the male to bob heavily at the female. It is a good sign she did not throw her beard out and circle with him. Anytime you see them both circle or her beard comes out. You better get them separated asap. Anyways her just sitting there could have meant she is ready or that she is not comfortable. You will know when the female is accepting of the male as she will bob slowly sometime accompanied by slow hand wave. She will generally lower her head, lift her tail with her hind end kinda hiked up and face away from him. This is typical "text book" breeding but they dont have to everything i said here. The main thing to spot is if she is not accepting of him.
3. Breeding ground can be anywhere. You just have to find out what works for your pair.
4. Mating can happen in literally minutes and sometimes it takes hours. Once you see them lock up, let them do there thing and once they are finished remove whoever is not the original occupant of the enclosure.
5. Brumation is not mandatory BUT it is pretty much a sure shot that when they come out of brumation that they will want to breed. If you have a stuborn male or female that doesnt want to breed. Many will put cycle them through a bru and most of the time they will breed. *Brumation is a natural occurance with these creature and i recommend allowing them to do so.
6. You dont need to change any temps for fertilization within the female. Keep your parameters the same.
 

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