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HI! I'm Maggie.

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
Hi! My name is Maggie, and we are going to add a bearded dragon to our family on Saturday. A baby from the pet store, most likely.

I have so many questions. Questions upon questions. This will be my first reptile. I have so much to learn. I'm used to mammals. lol

I, personally, love guinea pigs. My sons love all manner of living things, and my husband has wanted a bearded dragon for FOREVER. So, time to take the plunge.

First off, this is our tank. Can you see it? Not exactly sure how to post pictures here yet. I'm aware that we will need to section it off for a baby. It's 175 gallons... or so I've been told. HOW do I section it off? And how do I mount the lights lower do that the dragon can get close enough to the bulbs?

893475_10151403249138137_572125291_o.jpg


Also, this is how the hood is, when it's opened... it has openings in it. The yellow is my wall, so there is no hood, there:
548561_10151403303908137_1463009203_n.jpg


Also, would anyone be so kind as to link me to an easy to follow diet for beardies? I keep seeing meal worms, and then NO NEVER meal worms... and then lettuce, but then no lettuce. I'm confused.
 

Emulu1

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
16
Location
Turlock, CA
Under general bearded dragon discussion one of the first threads is a pretty good care sheet that can really help :). you can buy actual tank dividers to make the tank smaller at stores or online also.
 

Mungi's Buddha

Bearded Dragon Veteran
1,000+ Post Club
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1,122
Location
Mungi's World- Dayton,Ohio

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
Thank you so so much!!

I have to be completely honest. These dragons are rather high maintenance! I have a cricket carrier thing.... If I'm buying enough for a week for a very small dragon, how much should I buy?
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America


That enclosure does not seem to be very well suited for a BD's home at all. Much too tall, at least with the lights mounted on top. What are the actual measurements\dimensions? If you do not clutter the enclosure with unnecessary junk, partitioning should not be necessary. Different BDs have different appetites, your BD could eat anywhere from 100-300+ appropriate sized crickets a week.

I know that you have said that it is your intention to buy a BD today. Please get your enclosure setup, with the proper lighting & temps, in the right places & stable prior to bringing your BD home to it. This is important ...
 

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
We hung the lights, so that he could be closer to them... I will take a picture for you, and you could advise me to make any changes? We had his tank set up before he came home, but I'm trying to get a handle on this temperature thing. It seems to be some trial and error here.
 

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
okay, can you see all of the lights, here?
P1060488_zpsced1412a.jpg

Also, where should the thermometer sensor be placed? I'm almost positive it's not getting a good reading where it is at.
 

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53


That enclosure does not seem to be very well suited for a BD's home at all. Much too tall, at least with the lights mounted on top. What are the actual measurements\dimensions? If you do not clutter the enclosure with unnecessary junk, partitioning should not be necessary. Different BDs have different appetites, your BD could eat anywhere from 100-300+ appropriate sized crickets a week.

I know that you have said that it is your intention to buy a BD today. Please get your enclosure setup, with the proper lighting & temps, in the right places & stable prior to bringing your BD home to it. This is important ...
I'm scared it's not getting warm enough. How long should that take Mr. Germain?
 

Pat B

Super Moderator
Messages
1,469
Location
Columbia SC
Wow! That is a mac-daddy tank! You should have a digital thermometer with a probe not the kind that I see. The reading will be more accurate. You will need two of them. Place one probe at the hottest spot where he basks at. You may have to raise his basking spot to get the temp to 110-115 for a baby. Also place one in the cool area. Temp should be around 85. Once you get the temp and the lighting squared away the maintenance is not that bad....as you said....trial and error. I could never buy crix for a week....the darn things die too easily and I can't deal with roaches. Mealie worms are ok as a 'treat'....not a staple feeder. Also....don't forget the greens. The links provided are very good and give a new owner good information. Good luck with your little guy.
Oh....and Welcome to BDF!! :)
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
The center portion of the UVB bulb should cover the basking spot along with your heat source. Your Sensor\Probe for the basking spot temp measurement should be placed\mounted directly on\at the basking spot, the closest accessible spot that your BD has access to the heat bulb (an inch or so to the left of your BDs head in the pic) & the temp there should be in the vicinity of 110F. Temps should stabilize after the lights have been on for 2-3 hours, depending on your ambient room temps.

What is the dark bulb for? If it is for night heat, night heat is not needed or wanted, unless your ambient room temps drop below the Mid to low 60s F at night. If that is the case, a CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) with an inline dimmer or thermostat should be used to provide heat without light. Night lights of ANY color will bother most BD's sleep. BDs should be allowed to cool down at night, slows their metabolism down for a good nights rest.

As far as mealworms go, as with almost all worm feeders, are good for treats or a short change up. There are many Myths surrounding them, but that is exactly what they are, is MYTH. A good thread on the subject: Mealie Basher "Challenge"

Anything with the word lettuce in it, consists of mostly water, with little to no nutrition. Generally will give your animal the runs. Romaine does have a small amount of Calcium in it, but not really enough to be beneficial, so the Cons outweigh the Pros. Please refer to the nutrition list Bearded Dragon Diet Nutritional Information, that was provided to you earlier in the thread. Try to feed as much of the greens that are hi-lited in Green, that is available to you in your area.
We hung the lights, so that he could be closer to them... It seems to be some trial and error here.
We all have to experiment with different types & wattages of Bulbs, along with distances from bulb to animal, to suit our individual enclosures & ambient room temps.

Good Luck with your new addition.
 

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
I went with collard greens, cuz the nutrition link seems happy with them.

Okay. I'm going to return the basking bulb, I need a higher wattage, and I'm going to return the night bulb. Is the basking spot not close enough to UVB bulb? It's closer than it looks.
 

Germ

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
4,493
Location
North America
It should have access to the center portion of the UVB tube of 8"-12" at the basking spot, to ensure effective UVB coverage from an unfiltered UVB Bulb, like yours . Collard Greens are an excellent choice of staple green because of it's higher calcium content over the majority of other greens .

Seeing as you have room for Up\down adjustment of your heat fixture, might I suggest a 75-90W Halogen Flood Bulb available at most larger hardware stores for less than half the price of a petstore basking bulb. Halogen bulbs give cleaner, brighter, whiter light, with much more heat per watt output (so Cheaper to run too) & much better penetration into the enclosure, than most incandescent type bulbs. BDs thrive on bright white light.

Personally, I have used Philips Halogen Flood Bulbs (Not the Halogena) in all my enclosures of various Wattages to suit the particular enclosure (50W-90W), that I purchase at Home Depot, in all of my enclosures for over a decade.

010.JPG


Does not have to be the Philips Brand, that is just what I have found to have the longest life & works for me to give the penetration into the enclosure that I desire.

Good Luck.
 

MuggleMaggie

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
53
It should have access to the center portion of the UVB tube of 8"-12" at the basking spot, to ensure effective UVB coverage from an unfiltered UVB Bulb, like yours . Collard Greens are an excellent choice of staple green because of it's higher calcium content over the majority of other greens .

Seeing as you have room for Up\down adjustment of your heat fixture, might I suggest a 75-90W Halogen Flood Bulb available at most larger hardware stores for less than half the price of a petstore basking bulb. Halogen bulbs give cleaner, brighter, whiter light, with much more heat per watt output (so Cheaper to run too) & much better penetration into the enclosure, than most incandescent type bulbs. BDs thrive on bright white light.

Personally, I have used Philips Halogen Flood Bulbs (Not the Halogena) in all my enclosures of various Wattages to suit the particular enclosure (50W-90W), that I purchase at Home Depot, in all of my enclosures for over a decade.

View attachment 4659

Does not have to be the Philips Brand, that is just what I have found to have the longest life & works for me to give the penetration into the enclosure that I desire.

Good Luck.
Well, thankfully I got the right bulbs when I went to the hardware store! I saw another thread here, and I purchased one that I saw Mungi's Buddah suggest. (on another thread) I got a GE halogen indoor flood light, at 65 watts. It is doing a nice job at warming things up, thankfully. We've had to play with the height a bit, but it's good now. We will move the basking lamp to the center of the UVB bulb, and then move his stick and log to the center, as well.

I think I'm starting to get the hang of this. I really do appreciate all of your help!
 

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