Can anyone help a new beardie owner?

[edmek55555]

So I just got a bearded dragon last week and I did a ton of research before hand but I still have a bunch of questions/ concerns. He is young and roughly 6-7 inches long.

1. My beardie is incredibly skittish. Some times he will let me pet him, other times he will run across the tank and start scratching at the glass. I don't over stay my welcome, but when I feed him I try to give him a pet on the side so he gets used to me. Any advice?

2. I am currently feeding him crickets. However my girlfriend is horrified of them and other alternatives seem to be quite costly or aren't good for beardies such as mealworms. I've tried to use freeze dried crickets but he wouldn't touch them. Any affordable food sources that are good for him and can't jump all over the place?

3. He waves his arms a lot. I hear this is a sign of submissiveness but when I approach him he generally seems pretty scared. He doesn't hiss or puff up but he will run away and sometimes wont even return to that area until the next day. What could this mean?

 

[KrissyLeigh]

1. Be patient. You've only had him a week and for all he knows, you are a giant scary predator and he is a tasty little snack. You can feed him outside of his tank, so he will associate you picking him up with food. Also, make sure he sees your hands in the tank and lift him up from the belly / chest so as not to startle him.

2. Roaches roaches roaches!!! I know it sounds worse than crickets, but hear me out. Dubia roaches look like a rollypolly when they are small, have a much better nutrition content, are cheaper (order online), and don't jump/fly/crawl up slick surfaces like plastic or glass. Super worms and black fly soldier larvae (aka Phoenix worms) are also good.

3. My beardie waved a lot when he was younger. He hardly ever does so now - I guess he is more comfortable with me. Also if he sees his reflection in the glass, it could also be triggering that behavior.

Don't worry! Just give him some time. It's not recommended to handle much in the first two weeks, just let them adjust to the new digs. Speaking of digs, what is your setup like? If something is off, i.e. temp, it could be making him irritable. Post some pics of the baby! We love pics!!!

 

[PatsyB]

Everything Krissy said!

I was terrified of dubia until I saw them at a show just hanging out in a plastic feeder bowl. They didn't try to get out of the bowl at all. I told myself that they we're just tiny rolly pollies and have gotten over my fear.

 

[Sezi1foryou]

I have had my bearded for about a week he was eating crickets now he won't eat at all. His lighting is correct and he used to loved to be held, now he backs up when I put my hand in his tank. I have kept collard greens and crickets in cage and given meal worms and he chooses to eat nothing for two days is this ok? Could it be because he is adjusting to new place? Any recommendations?


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[edmek55555]

1. Be patient. You've only had him a week and for all he knows, you are a giant scary predator and he is a tasty little snack. You can feed him outside of his tank, so he will associate you picking him up with food. Also, make sure he sees your hands in the tank and lift him up from the belly / chest so as not to startle him.

2. Roaches roaches roaches!!! I know it sounds worse than crickets, but hear me out. Dubia roaches look like a rollypolly when they are small, have a much better nutrition content, are cheaper (order online), and don't jump/fly/crawl up slick surfaces like plastic or glass. Super worms and black fly soldier larvae (aka Phoenix worms) are also good.

3. My beardie waved a lot when he was younger. He hardly ever does so now - I guess he is more comfortable with me. Also if he sees his reflection in the glass, it could also be triggering that behavior.

Don't worry! Just give him some time. It's not recommended to handle much in the first two weeks, just let them adjust to the new digs. Speaking of digs, what is your setup like? If something is off, i.e. temp, it could be making him irritable. Post some pics of the baby! We love pics!!!

View attachment 16359

I have heard everything from wait a couple days to wait a month to handle beardies at all, its one of the few questions I couldnt find solid answer to. I haven't attempted to pick him up at all, I will give him some time on that. I just don't want to ignore him too much and have him never be tame.

My setup has an ambient temperature of about 82-85 degrees and a basking temp of 95-100. At night I switch to a lower wattage night time bulb and the temperature at night generally sits around 75. I feed him crickets twice daily. He wont eat them out of my hand so I drop them in front of him and he goes after them. I remove whatever he doesnt eat after about 25 minutes. I dust them with calcium powder. I also hive him a salad twice daily which I leave in. Usually squash, kale, and collard greens though he only ever eats a little squash. I give him a shallow water dish and change that twice a day. He has several decorations including a high basking spot, A lower rock that has a hole for him to go in, though he never does, and a rock in the cooler corner of his tank with several hiding spots that he pretty much ignores.

He doesn't seem so much irritated as scared. He doesn't run from me much now, but he is very weary about me petting him. I am sure it will come in time, but it seems like a lot of beardie owners have their beardies tamed super quick, guess my little guy is just a stubborn one. i will try to get some pics up later!

 

[edmek55555]

I have had my bearded for about a week he was eating crickets now he won't eat at all. His lighting is correct and he used to loved to be held, now he backs up when I put my hand in his tank. I have kept collard greens and crickets in cage and given meal worms and he chooses to eat nothing for two days is this ok? Could it be because he is adjusting to new place? Any recommendations?


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I am very new to owning beardies but I have read up on a ton of stuff. If it is very cold where you live he may be about to go into brumation though from my understanding that normally happens at the beginning of winter. I also hear beardies can act quite odd when they are about to shed. If so he may also be darker and rub against things sort of like a cat.

The only other thing I could think of is if he is eating mealworms regularly, he could be impacted. It depends on who you ask but some people swear that beardies can't digest the shell of a mealworm, others swear they can, I am no expert so I don't know. If you use a sand substrate that could also impact the little guy. If you feel either of these is the case then it is best to get him to a vet

 

[Sezi1foryou]

He hasn't ate me works since I have had him for a about 4-5 days only greens and about 20 crickets. He is on carpet and he is shedding ....


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[Sezi1foryou]

Does it matter where you keep them, I mean there cage he is on our living room so it's very active. He sits and watches us. Now he has started to back up when you go to pick him up.


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[edmek55555]

Does it matter where you keep them, I mean there cage he is on our living room so it's very active. He sits and watches us. Now he has started to back up when you go to pick him up.


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It is generally recommended to keep them in a busy part of the house so the living room should be fine. Some dragons appearently go through a teen stage where they are generally less sociable but it doesnt sound like yours is that old

 

[PatsyB]

@Squish how old is he again? Younger dragons need a basking spot of 107-110. Also, at night you want to use a ceramic heat emitter only if the temps drop below 65 degrees. They need a nighttime temp drop to regulate their body. So at night you only want it to be between 65-70degrees.

 

[KrissyLeigh]

He hasn't ate me works since I have had him for a about 4-5 days only greens and about 20 crickets. He is on carpet and he is shedding ....


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Mine is the sweetest lizard you will ever meet, but even he gets grumpy when he's going through a shed. And if you've only had him a little while he is still probably getting accustomed to you and the new home. Have you tried other insects? I know some dragons are intimidated by them, and some are just lazy. The previous beardie I had thought crickets were too much work. He would let them crawl all over him and only ate one of it landed in front of his face

 

[KrissyLeigh]

I have heard everything from wait a couple days to wait a month to handle beardies at all, its one of the few questions I couldnt find solid answer to. I haven't attempted to pick him up at all, I will give him some time on that. I just don't want to ignore him too much and have him never be tame.

My setup has an ambient temperature of about 82-85 degrees and a basking temp of 95-100. At night I switch to a lower wattage night time bulb and the temperature at night generally sits around 75. I feed him crickets twice daily. He wont eat them out of my hand so I drop them in front of him and he goes after them. I remove whatever he doesnt eat after about 25 minutes. I dust them with calcium powder. I also hive him a salad twice daily which I leave in. Usually squash, kale, and collard greens though he only ever eats a little squash. I give him a shallow water dish and change that twice a day. He has several decorations including a high basking spot, A lower rock that has a hole for him to go in, though he never does, and a rock in the cooler corner of his tank with several hiding spots that he pretty much ignores.

He doesn't seem so much irritated as scared. He doesn't run from me much now, but he is very weary about me petting him. I am sure it will come in time, but it seems like a lot of beardie owners have their beardies tamed super quick, guess my little guy is just a stubborn one. i will try to get some pics up later!

To be clear, your nighttime bulb is heat only and does not emit any actual light, correct? Even tinted bulbs throws off their sleep cycle, which could make him irritable / not social

 

[Sezi1foryou]

Yes my night light is black and is only for heat. Now the problem I have is the humidity keeps going way up at nighttime ... might be because I have my windows open and house is humid I guess. But can't figure out how to keep it low at night. During the day it's fine


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[Rex Carnage]

Yes my night light is black and is only for heat. Now the problem I have is the humidity keeps going way up at nighttime ... might be because I have my windows open and house is humid I guess. But can't figure out how to keep it low at night. During the day it's fine


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unless its going below 40 degrees Fahrenheit in your house at night i wouldnt suggest using a heating lamp or anything at night to heat your breadie up, they and tons of other reptiles really enjoy sleeping in the cold and it helps them get to sleep easier, it seems to many people worry about heating at night, also some beardies just dont eat for a few days and then they will eat, mine does the same and so does my cousins it seems perfectly normal, what im doing now and what id recommend is feeding him every other day, it saves on wasting veggies, this arnt rules by any means just guidelines ive made for myself in the back of my head threw experience.

 

[Rex Carnage]

Yes my night light is black and is only for heat. Now the problem I have is the humidity keeps going way up at nighttime ... might be because I have my windows open and house is humid I guess. But can't figure out how to keep it low at night. During the day it's fine


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as for the humidity i use a dehumidifier, I live in a basement so it kinda works sense it needs to be down here anyway.

 

[PatsyB]

40
Degrees is way too cold for a beardie. Should be around 65 for them at night, they need the temp drop. I've even had mine go down to about 61, 62 with no issues.

I do agree, it the humidity is way too high ar night, a dehumidifier works great. It is normal to have some humidity rise at night since you don't have the lights on drying things out.

 

[Rex Carnage]

40
Degrees is way too cold for a beardie. Should be around 65 for them at night, they need the temp drop. I've even had mine go down to about 61, 62 with no issues.

I do agree, it the humidity is way too high ar night, a dehumidifier works great. It is normal to have some humidity rise at night since you don't have the lights on drying things out.

as much as i agree that it shouldnt get too cold for beardies at night do you actually know of some studys or other stuff that support they cant handle 40 degrees F? just interested in what i can learn, not trying to start a fight or any problems

 

[Squish]

@Squish how old is he again? Younger dragons need a basking spot of 107-110. Also, at night you want to use a ceramic heat emitter only if the temps drop below 65 degrees. They need a nighttime temp drop to regulate their body. So at night you only want it to be between 65-70degrees.

I'm not sure if you meant to tag me or someone else... haha but my dragon has a CHE at night.