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Beardie Not Eating on Her Own

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
OK, I'm going to try to keep this as short as possible, although I think it's still going to be long since I want to provide enough detail to give a good background story here.

We have a female beardie who is approx. 20 months old now. We basically adopted her after pet-sitting her for about a month. The owners felt the kids weren't giving her enough attention anymore, so we accepted the offer to keep her. She was about 6 months old at the time.

When she first came to stay with us, I barely knew what a bearded dragon was, so I was not familiar with the care they required. After doing some extensive research on what they needed in noted some immediate husbandry issues. She had no UVB, so I immediately got one to give her what she needed in that regard. Luckily, she doesn't have any visible physical deformities from a lack of UVB and a vet x-ray shows her skeleton, while not perfect, did not show any serious signs of MBD. I also immediately upgraded her to a 40 gal tank because she was in a 10 gal aquarium and was clearly getting too big.

Fast forward a few months.

She seemed to be doing well in her new surroundings, but started getting lethargic and eating less and less. I thought maybe it was brumation but wanted to make sure. The vet decides to do bloodwork. The bloodwork comes back basically normal. The vet takes an x-ray and it revealed she was full of egg follicles. Up to this point, she had never laid eggs. The vest recommended we try a nesting box to see if she would start to lay eggs. First putting her in the nesting box looked promising as she began digging fairly quickly and kept at it for a while, but then she lost interest. After a couple more days of trying to get her to lay eggs, I finally gave up and back to the vet we go. Another x-ray revealed there appeared to be even more follicles than the last time. The vet then recommended surgery to remove them since in her opinion, it looked as though she was not going to be able to pass them on her own. Just for clarification, these were only follicles, not actual eggs, so I guess she wasn't technically egg bound. I agreed that the surgery was probably the best solution at that point and that's what happened. They removed approx. 80-90 follicles from her and performed a hysterectomy, so we didn't have to possibly go through it again later on.

She seemed to recover well and returned to her normal, more active self and during this time I also moved her to a Zen Habitat 4X2X2 enclosure. Her typical diet consisted of turnip, mustard, and collard greens and superworms, with some added calcium and (without D3 since I believe she gets good UVB from her 34" Reptisun 10.0 UVB T5HO) and herptivite multi.

Fast forward another few months.

Once again, she seems to be getting less active and has not wanted to eat and also sitting in her hide for long periods of time. Back to the vet we go. The vet does another x-ray and no follicles, so we could rule that out. I'm not trying to bash this vet at all because I think she's great, but she's not what I would call a super expert on reptiles. She deals with all kinds of animals and is very good at what she does. We don't really have a dedicated reptile vet here where I live that is accepting new clients. So, she then thinks we should treat her for parasites just in case and she gave her what I remember her saying was a steroid shot that should help increase her appetite. She sent me home with some Critical Care-Carnivore and the various syringes with the parasite meds and back home we go. Couple days go by and she still doesn't want to eat. Talked to the vet and she said the meds will often make them not want to eat, so we just stayed on course until the meds were done. She said if she still doesn't want to eat after the parasite treatment is done, we may need to do more bloodwork in case something else has changed. This was the end of October 2021.

I haven't been back to the vet. I don't know if it's just reluctance because nothing is working or what. She is still not eating on her own. After about a week on the Critical Care-Carnivore, I did research and read that the carnivore is not good for beardies for longer term care, especially adults, because of how high the protein content is. I bought some of the critical care herbivore and started mixing the two, then discovered the company also makes an omnivore, which specifically says bearded dragons on the package. So currently, I'm mixing the herbivore and omnivore together at about 50/50 and adding some powdered calcium. I give her approx 5ml of the wet paste solution, fed through syringe normally 2 days on, 1day off. I don't have to force open her mouth to feed her. I just place drops on the tip of her nose, and she licks it off. I should also add that every day she is still offered salads of the various greens mentioned before but has little interest. I have also tried weening her off the syringe feeding twice before. Once for a 5-day span and another for a 7-day span. I imagine she would've had to have gotten hungry and found her salad or superworms appetizing, but no real interest. She would watch the worms crawl around, but no interest to eat. So back to the syringe we go.

Now being 6 months later, I don't know what else to do. Am I going to have to syringe-feed her for the rest of her life? Just to note, there were 2 (but only 2 occasions in this entire time, where I guess she forgot she's on this hunger strike of hers and surprisingly decided to eat a couple superworms that were offered to her and then ate a little bit of salad. I also bought some crickets once and she ate some of those over a few days. None of these episodes occurred during the periods where I stopped syringe feeding her for several days though. I can't figure out what her issue is, and I don't like going for these week+ trials of not syringe feeding her at all, as she doesn't have any interest in her salad or worms in the 2 trials I've done. I'm hesitant to even go on vacation because leaving her with someone that's not intimately familiar with her situation and her needs is just not something I'm willing to do at this point.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
OK, I'm going to try to keep this as short as possible, although I think it's still going to be long since I want to provide enough detail to give a good background story here.

We have a female beardie who is approx. 20 months old now. We basically adopted her after pet-sitting her for about a month. The owners felt the kids weren't giving her enough attention anymore, so we accepted the offer to keep her. She was about 6 months old at the time.

When she first came to stay with us, I barely knew what a bearded dragon was, so I was not familiar with the care they required. After doing some extensive research on what they needed in noted some immediate husbandry issues. She had no UVB, so I immediately got one to give her what she needed in that regard. Luckily, she doesn't have any visible physical deformities from a lack of UVB and a vet x-ray shows her skeleton, while not perfect, did not show any serious signs of MBD. I also immediately upgraded her to a 40 gal tank because she was in a 10 gal aquarium and was clearly getting too big.

Fast forward a few months.

She seemed to be doing well in her new surroundings, but started getting lethargic and eating less and less. I thought maybe it was brumation but wanted to make sure. The vet decides to do bloodwork. The bloodwork comes back basically normal. The vet takes an x-ray and it revealed she was full of egg follicles. Up to this point, she had never laid eggs. The vest recommended we try a nesting box to see if she would start to lay eggs. First putting her in the nesting box looked promising as she began digging fairly quickly and kept at it for a while, but then she lost interest. After a couple more days of trying to get her to lay eggs, I finally gave up and back to the vet we go. Another x-ray revealed there appeared to be even more follicles than the last time. The vet then recommended surgery to remove them since in her opinion, it looked as though she was not going to be able to pass them on her own. Just for clarification, these were only follicles, not actual eggs, so I guess she wasn't technically egg bound. I agreed that the surgery was probably the best solution at that point and that's what happened. They removed approx. 80-90 follicles from her and performed a hysterectomy, so we didn't have to possibly go through it again later on.

She seemed to recover well and returned to her normal, more active self and during this time I also moved her to a Zen Habitat 4X2X2 enclosure. Her typical diet consisted of turnip, mustard, and collard greens and superworms, with some added calcium and (without D3 since I believe she gets good UVB from her 34" Reptisun 10.0 UVB T5HO) and herptivite multi.

Fast forward another few months.

Once again, she seems to be getting less active and has not wanted to eat and also sitting in her hide for long periods of time. Back to the vet we go. The vet does another x-ray and no follicles, so we could rule that out. I'm not trying to bash this vet at all because I think she's great, but she's not what I would call a super expert on reptiles. She deals with all kinds of animals and is very good at what she does. We don't really have a dedicated reptile vet here where I live that is accepting new clients. So, she then thinks we should treat her for parasites just in case and she gave her what I remember her saying was a steroid shot that should help increase her appetite. She sent me home with some Critical Care-Carnivore and the various syringes with the parasite meds and back home we go. Couple days go by and she still doesn't want to eat. Talked to the vet and she said the meds will often make them not want to eat, so we just stayed on course until the meds were done. She said if she still doesn't want to eat after the parasite treatment is done, we may need to do more bloodwork in case something else has changed. This was the end of October 2021.

I haven't been back to the vet. I don't know if it's just reluctance because nothing is working or what. She is still not eating on her own. After about a week on the Critical Care-Carnivore, I did research and read that the carnivore is not good for beardies for longer term care, especially adults, because of how high the protein content is. I bought some of the critical care herbivore and started mixing the two, then discovered the company also makes an omnivore, which specifically says bearded dragons on the package. So currently, I'm mixing the herbivore and omnivore together at about 50/50 and adding some powdered calcium. I give her approx 5ml of the wet paste solution, fed through syringe normally 2 days on, 1day off. I don't have to force open her mouth to feed her. I just place drops on the tip of her nose, and she licks it off. I should also add that every day she is still offered salads of the various greens mentioned before but has little interest. I have also tried weening her off the syringe feeding twice before. Once for a 5-day span and another for a 7-day span. I imagine she would've had to have gotten hungry and found her salad or superworms appetizing, but no real interest. She would watch the worms crawl around, but no interest to eat. So back to the syringe we go.

Now being 6 months later, I don't know what else to do. Am I going to have to syringe-feed her for the rest of her life? Just to note, there were 2 (but only 2 occasions in this entire time, where I guess she forgot she's on this hunger strike of hers and surprisingly decided to eat a couple superworms that were offered to her and then ate a little bit of salad. I also bought some crickets once and she ate some of those over a few days. None of these episodes occurred during the periods where I stopped syringe feeding her for several days though. I can't figure out what her issue is, and I don't like going for these week+ trials of not syringe feeding her at all, as she doesn't have any interest in her salad or worms in the 2 trials I've done. I'm hesitant to even go on vacation because leaving her with someone that's not intimately familiar with her situation and her needs is just not something I'm willing to do at this point.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Uvb is crucial and surface basking temps-- they will not eat on their own if this is incorrect- where do you have the T 5 distance and placement is crucial and what are the surface basking temps how are you taking them? Once we get that figured out I am going to get your post to 2 people that can help-- please post the blood work -- one of these people is a vet tech she's very good
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
Uvb is crucial and surface basking temps-- they will not eat on their own if this is incorrect- where do you have the T 5 distance and placement is crucial and what are the surface basking temps how are you taking them? Once we get that figured out I am going to get your post to 2 people that can help-- please post the blood work -- one of these people is a vet tech she's very good
This is a pick of her enclosure. The cool side is usually 78 to 82, the warm side 85 to 90 and her basking is around 105 normally, taken with a heat gun. I'm sorry, I don't have the original bloodwork that was done last year. The vet just said everything looked normal. Over the last few months, she doesn't seem to want to sit directly under her basking lamp and prefers her log as you see in the pics. Thank you.
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
This is a pick of her enclosure. The cool side is usually 78 to 82, the warm side 85 to 90 and her basking is around 105 normally, taken with a heat gun. I'm sorry, I don't have the original bloodwork that was done last year. The vet just said everything looked normal. Over the last few months, she doesn't seem to want to sit directly under her basking lamp and prefers her log as you see in the pics. Thank you.
Ok what is the distance from the uvb to basking decor? Please get a digital probe thermometer- 2 of them please-- you want surface basking temps-- 95-100-- please contact the vet ask them to email the blood work last done-
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
Ok what is the distance from the uvb to basking decor? Please get a digital probe thermometer- 2 of them please-- you want surface basking temps-- 95-100-- please contact the vet ask them to email the blood work last done-
There are 3 thermometers in her enclosure. One on each side and one in the middle. The two on the sides are of the digital probe variety and the one in the middle is digital and also measures the humidity. If she is sitting on the log like in the pictures, the UVB is about 14 inches away. If she's on the enclosure floor, it's about 18 inches away.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
There are 3 thermometers in her enclosure. One on each side and one in the middle. The two on the sides are of the digital probe variety and the one in the middle is digital and also measures the humidity. If she is sitting on the log like in the pictures, the UVB is about 14 inches away. If she's on the enclosure floor, it's about 18 inches away.
Ok 14 is good floor not so good-- I would get her warm side up in the 90's- how old is the uvb bulb?
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
O

Ok let's see what the 2 I posted to say they can help better than I w/ the follicle issue
The follicle issue seems to have been taken care of with the surgery since she had a complete hysterectomy. Not sure if there could still be lingering issues from that tough. It's mainly just the not wanting to eat on her own is the problem now.

I have a hard time balancing the temps in the enclosure. If I try raising the overall temps by increasing the intensity of the basking bulb, her basking spot gets too hot. I cannot move the basking bulb any higher than it is in the enclosure. I have put a towel over half the enclosure on the top screen which helps trap some of the heat in. In mid-day when it's warmer in the house, the warm side will hit 90.

I have added a supplemental heat source for nighttime since it drops to 70 degrees in the house. It's a heat emitter that keeps the enclosure at 79-80 at night. I think she likes this better as she gets active sooner than if the enclosure was at 70. When it was cooler, she seemed to take longer to become active after her lights come on.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
The follicle issue seems to have been taken care of with the surgery since she had a complete hysterectomy. Not sure if there could still be lingering issues from that tough. It's mainly just the not wanting to eat on her own is the problem now.

I have a hard time balancing the temps in the enclosure. If I try raising the overall temps by increasing the intensity of the basking bulb, her basking spot gets too hot. I cannot move the basking bulb any higher than it is in the enclosure. I have put a towel over half the enclosure on the top screen which helps trap some of the heat in. In mid-day when it's warmer in the house, the warm side will hit 90.

I have added a supplemental heat source for nighttime since it drops to 70 degrees in the house. It's a heat emitter that keeps the enclosure at 79-80 at night. I think she likes this better as she gets active sooner than if the enclosure was at 70. When it was cooler, she seemed to take longer to become active after her lights come on.
here is what one of the people posted --
The dragon looks healthy and her tank is set up nicely, just watch that she doesn't eat any fake leaves. They can start that out of the blue, my dragons would chomp on those. So anyway, being that she has eaten a few insects here + there just be patient and lay off the Oxbow food for most days, maybe once a week and she should start eating insects again. It doesn't hurt them to deprive them of one thing to insure that they begin feeding on a something else.

The temps at night are too high - they need to be 65-75 for a healthy dragon-temps that high at nite can cause RI's and they need to cool to metabolize their system - that temp would be good for a sick dragon-- I would get the UVB lowered and a piece of decor directly under it -- then watch her behavior-- please get a surface basking temp w/ the digital probe thermometer -- IR guns are good but can be off by the material is being used -- you want that temp 95-100--
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
here is what one of the people posted --
The dragon looks healthy and her tank is set up nicely, just watch that she doesn't eat any fake leaves. They can start that out of the blue, my dragons would chomp on those. So anyway, being that she has eaten a few insects here + there just be patient and lay off the Oxbow food for most days, maybe once a week and she should start eating insects again. It doesn't hurt them to deprive them of one thing to insure that they begin feeding on a something else.

The temps at night are too high - they need to be 65-75 for a healthy dragon-temps that high at nite can cause RI's and they need to cool to metabolize their system - that temp would be good for a sick dragon-- I would get the UVB lowered and a piece of decor directly under it -- then watch her behavior-- please get a surface basking temp w/ the digital probe thermometer -- IR guns are good but can be off by the material is being used -- you want that temp 95-100--
OK, thanks. I will start on that. I can add chain links back to the hooks that will lower the UVB. I actually removed them before because I thought it was too low and decided to raise it up some. I'll go back to leaving the heat emitter off at night. I thought maybe she was getting too cold at night and maybe that would help her. She should be good though as the coldest it gets is 69-70 degrees.

I feel so bad not feeding her if I know she's not eating, but I guess if that's what it will take if she's ever going to go back eating on her own I need to do it.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
OK, thanks. I will start on that. I can add chain links back to the hooks that will lower the UVB. I actually removed them before because I thought it was too low and decided to raise it up some. I'll go back to leaving the heat emitter off at night. I thought maybe she was getting too cold at night and maybe that would help her. She should be good though as the coldest it gets is 69-70 degrees.

I feel so bad not feeding her if I know she's not eating, but I guess if that's what it will take if she's ever going to go back eating on her own I need to do it.
Ok if you need more help please ask - watch her behavior and see if things improve
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
Ok if you need more help please ask - watch her behavior and see if things improve
So I've lowered her UVB to where it's 12 inches from the top of the log she sits on. When she's on it, it's only about 8 inches from the top of her head. It's 16 inches from the light to the floor of her enclosure, so about 12 inches from the top of her head.

I said earlier that in midday when the house is the warmest, her enclosure can hit 90. I don't know if she's a big fan of the higher temps though because at this time same while it's the warmest, she often goes into her rock hide on the cooler side with just her head sticking out of the rock.

Since I'm not going to be running her heat emmitter at night any more based on the recommendations, I'm going to run it in tandem with her other lights during the day to bring the temps up. I can't increase the intensity of her basking bulb any further to accomplish this because her basking spot becomes too hot. I imagine with this being on as well in the day, the warm side to middle of her enclosure will probably reach the low 90s.

I didn't syringe feed her yesterday and I'm not going to today either. She had her salad in with her that I didn't see her eat any of, which is how it normally goes and I offered her a superworm and she just licked it.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
So I've lowered her UVB to where it's 12 inches from the top of the log she sits on. When she's on it, it's only about 8 inches from the top of her head. It's 16 inches from the light to the floor of her enclosure, so about 12 inches from the top of her head.

I said earlier that in midday when the house is the warmest, her enclosure can hit 90. I don't know if she's a big fan of the higher temps though because at this time same while it's the warmest, she often goes into her rock hide on the cooler side with just her head sticking out of the rock.

Since I'm not going to be running her heat emmitter at night any more based on the recommendations, I'm going to run it in tandem with her other lights during the day to bring the temps up. I can't increase the intensity of her basking bulb any further to accomplish this because her basking spot becomes too hot. I imagine with this being on as well in the day, the warm side to middle of her enclosure will probably reach the low 90s.

I didn't syringe feed her yesterday and I'm not going to today either. She had her salad in with her that I didn't see her eat any of, which is how it normally goes and I offered her a superworm and she just licked it.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks.
Yes it's so annoying when they just lick it-- have you tried a different decor piece to get different temps?
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
I had red clay tile in there for a basking area that I put in there about 2 months ago because that's what she had in her 40 gal tank and I thought she might like that better. She did have flat black slate tiles before. She hasn't been basking hardly at all for at least the past month since I put the red clay tiles in there. She prefers to sit on her log, which does get some heat from her basking light but nothing like the spot itself.

So tonight I also decided to go back to her black slate since she would actually bask on those even though the temps were the same. I will have to adjust the bulb brightness tomorrow when it's on to get the right basking temp. The dimmer settings for the red clay were slightly different than the black slate.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
I had red clay tile in there for a basking area that I put in there about 2 months ago because that's what she had in her 40 gal tank and I thought she might like that better. She did have flat black slate tiles before. She hasn't been basking hardly at all for at least the past month since I put the red clay tiles in there. She prefers to sit on her log, which does get some heat from her basking light but nothing like the spot itself.

So tonight I also decided to go back to her black slate since she would actually bask on those even though the temps were the same. I will have to adjust the bulb brightness tomorrow when it's on to get the right basking temp. The dimmer settings for the red clay were slightly different than the black slate.
Ok see how that goes-- keep me posted please
 

BeardieDad

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
9
Yes it's so annoying when they just lick it-- have you tried a different decor piece to get different temps?

Ok see how that goes-- keep me posted please
Just one other question regarding the basking temps. I've always assumed that temp to mean the surface temp of whatever is below the basking bulb. Is that accurate? If it's the air between the basking bulb and the tiles, that temp is obviously going to be different. The tiles can get quite hot if I turn the bulb all the way up, which of course I don't do.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,411
Just one other question regarding the basking temps. I've always assumed that temp to mean the surface temp of whatever is below the basking bulb. Is that accurate? If it's the air between the basking bulb and the tiles, that temp is obviously going to be different. The tiles can get quite hot if I turn the bulb all the way up, which of course I don't do.
Yes you want surface basking temps-- not air- that should be in the 90's around that area and a stick on would give that
 

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