Advice on how to get my new beardie to eat.

[kieranweller]

So i got my Bearded Dragon a few days ago and i did alot of research before hand so i was aware of the possibility of relocation stress. She has all the old setup and lighting from her old owners and the temp and uvb are all in perfect order. I was just wondering how to get her to eat. Should i still be offering her food everyday or should i leave her be for a bit?. She is already quite a chubby lizard so im sure she can go a while without eating. I'm currently offering her super worms which she accepted the first day but now she wont. Is this a good food to offer and should i be offering her treat veggies and fruit like apple or strawberries aswell? She was also glass surfing and her tail was a darker colour but she has since stopped this now and her tail has returned to her normal colour. Do these signs point to her feeling more comfortable? And am i also doing all i can or is there something else i should be doing.

 

[Sadie]

So i got my Bearded Dragon a few days ago and i did alot of research before hand so i was aware of the possibility of relocation stress. She has all the old setup and lighting from her old owners and the temp and uvb are all in perfect order. I was just wondering how to get her to eat. Should i still be offering her food everyday or should i leave her be for a bit?. She is already quite a chubby lizard so im sure she can go a while without eating. I'm currently offering her super worms which she accepted the first day but now she wont. Is this a good food to offer and should i be offering her treat veggies and fruit like apple or strawberries aswell? She was also glass surfing and her tail was a darker colour but she has since stopped this now and her tail has returned to her normal colour. Do these signs point to her feeling more comfortable? And am i also doing all i can or is there something else i should be doing.

Please tell me what your using for a UVB brand and bulb coil or tube? How old is the UVB? They do expire- she needs salads everyday greens like collard turnip kale and mustard- I can post a website for nutrition tomorrow- yes she will.go thru relocation stress- super worms are not a good staple feeder--- she needs dubia roaches crickets or silk worms - I can post websites for those as well-- her basking temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer - No stickons- they are inaccurate--

 

[Aspookyghost]

It could be the uv lighting, but about the fruits and veggies, she should be fed fruits and veggies every day because they will help her digest the meat or else she could get constipated or a tummy ache, but more veggies than fruit as too much fruit can harm her. Some berry good veggies to feed her are broccoli, basil, and spaghetti squash. And apples are a really good fruit to feed her as well as blueberries and bananas. For more info on the whole fruits and veggies thing you should look up some foods that would be great for her. And if you want her to be more comfortable, you can take her out of her tank a few times a day for a few minutes and play around with her or let her sit on your shoulders (because beardies LOVE LOVE LOVE hanging out with their humans) to help her get use to you after the location change. (A laser pointer is really fun to use, and mirrors are fun too) but you might just want to give her a little time to adjust to the new setting after being separated from her previous owners. I hope this helped if you have anymore questions/concerns feel free to ask!

 

[kieranweller]

Please tell me what your using for a UVB brand and bulb coil or tube? How old is the UVB? They do expire- she needs salads everyday greens like collard turnip kale and mustard- I can post a website for nutrition tomorrow- yes she will.go thru relocation stress- super worms are not a good staple feeder--- she needs dubia roaches crickets or silk worms - I can post websites for those as well-- her basking temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer - No stickons- they are inaccurate--

It's a reptisun 10.0 uvb and it's it only 2 months old.

 

[Sadie]

It's a reptisun 10.0 uvb and it's it only 2 months old.

Is this a coil or tube? Very important -- if its a coil please get rid of it -- here is some info on UVB's

Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--
If you have any questions please ask -- if you need help finding a fixture to replace please ask I have some websites you can order from -

 

[kieranweller]

Is this a coil or tube? Very important -- if its a coil please get rid of it -- here is some info on UVB's

Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--
If you have any questions please ask -- if you need help finding a fixture to replace please ask I have some websites you can order from -

It's a tube light, she's started eating her veggies now while I'm out of the room but still won't eat from my hand. Does this mean the issue is with her not trusting me and I should spend more time with her out if her tank?

 

[Aspookyghost]

It's a tube light, she's started eating her veggies now while I'm out of the room but still won't eat from my hand. Does this mean the issue is with her not trusting me and I should spend more time with her out if her tank?

Not at all, bearded dragons don't like being hand fed at all. Instead they like hunting their food (idk why but even if it's veggies) so you don't have to worry about it

 

[Sadie]

It's a tube light, she's started eating her veggies now while I'm out of the room but still won't eat from my hand. Does this mean the issue is with her not trusting me and I should spend more time with her out if her tank?

And your tube is a T 5 or a T 8? If its a T 5 it has two options for placement - if your screen is a wide holed like a dime it can be on top w/ basking decor directly underneath distance 8-10 inches if its a fine mesh like a screen door it needs to be inside the tank w/ basking decor directly underneath 12-15 inches -- T 8's need to be inside the tank w/ no clear plastic cover over the bulb - bulb needs to be exposed and distance approx 6-8 inches
The screen blocks about 30% of the rays ---
Handfeeding your little one will build trust and he will learn to not to fear your hand --- he will associate your hand w/ good and no fear ---- having your hands in the tank as much as possible like cleaning etc as well --- you can put a piece of cloth or a fleece blanket works good something w/ your smell on it in his hide will also help w/ the trust - your voice and talking to him as well --- you want him hand tamed and this is a good way of doing that

 

[kieranweller]

And your tube is a T 5 or a T 8? If its a T 5 it has two options for placement - if your screen is a wide holed like a dime it can be on top w/ basking decor directly underneath distance 8-10 inches if its a fine mesh like a screen door it needs to be inside the tank w/ basking decor directly underneath 12-15 inches -- T 8's need to be inside the tank w/ no clear plastic cover over the bulb - bulb needs to be exposed and distance approx 6-8 inches
The screen blocks about 30% of the rays ---
Handfeeding your little one will build trust and he will learn to not to fear your hand --- he will associate your hand w/ good and no fear ---- having your hands in the tank as much as possible like cleaning etc as well --- you can put a piece of cloth or a fleece blanket works good something w/ your smell on it in his hide will also help w/ the trust - your voice and talking to him as well --- you want him hand tamed and this is a good way of doing that

It's a wooden tank with a glass sliding door. It's a t5 and is about 14 inches from the ground. With basking light just to the left of it. Is this ok or should I switch out one of the lights?

 

[Sadie]

It's a wooden tank with a glass sliding door. It's a t5 and is about 14 inches from the ground. With basking light just to the left of it. Is this ok or should I switch out one of the lights?

Basking light is fine -- as long as the basking decor is 12-15 inches under the UVB your good - its optimal to have the basking light and UVB next to each other but sometimes space doesnt allow for it - so if you haft to move the UVB that is fine - its better to get your UVB situated first and then adjust your basking decor accordingly -- your dragon will go to the light he needs --- mine are set up w/ the basking light and UVB in different spots -

 

[kieranweller]

Basking light is fine -- as long as the basking decor is 12-15 inches under the UVB your good - its optimal to have the basking light and UVB next to each other but sometimes space doesnt allow for it - so if you haft to move the UVB that is fine - its better to get your UVB situated first and then adjust your basking decor accordingly -- your dragon will go to the light he needs --- mine are set up w/ the basking light and UVB in different spots -

How would I let her hunt the insects? I've heard that they can bite beardies so I assume that just putting them in the tank isn't the right way to do it

 

[Sadie]

I would get her some BSFL they are a great staple feeder and work well w/ hand feeding - you can get them from here
www.symtonbsf.com order large and you will need a glass or ceramic bowl so they cant get out something like this
https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
here are some other websites to get insects / worms
www.mulberryfarms.com they have good butter worms small super worms and when in stock silk worms- I would refratin from getting horn worms from here as they need to be small and grow very fast -
www.dubiaroaches.com they have good horn worms and usually send small - order medium and they will send small and only order in small amounts -- dubias work great for feeding as a staple and in the bowl
www.reptilianarts.com great place for silk worms - if your order by cup they come a little big and w/ food if you order by bulk they come w/ NO food so you will need to order that and in bulk they come small - also clean containers out daily
www.coastalsilkworms.com they come w/ food
use your worms to lure her to the salad bowl feed all the BSFL you want and do not dust them -- feed like 1-3 super 1-3 butter worms on top of the salads make sure you add them to the salad bowl in front of her so it gets her attention

 

[Sadie]

If your feeding crickets do not leave them in the tank --- count how many your feeding only feed what shes eating -- crickets do bite and they can cause infection - look at my last post and go from there - dubias are wonderful staple feeders and so are the silk worms --- here is a website for nutrition as well - http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
You can feed the crickets one or two at a time - but you want her eating salads too and the things I posted will get her to that food bowl and eating - even if its a little - rinse your greens before serving and she will get moisture from them

 

[kieranweller]

If your feeding crickets do not leave them in the tank --- count how many your feeding only feed what shes eating -- crickets do bite and they can cause infection - look at my last post and go from there - dubias are wonderful staple feeders and so are the silk worms --- here is a website for nutrition as well - http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
You can feed the crickets one or two at a time - but you want her eating salads too and the things I posted will get her to that food bowl and eating - even if its a little - rinse your greens before serving and she will get moisture from them

Thanks for ur help I'm alot less paranoid now.

 

[Sadie]

Thanks for ur help I'm alot less paranoid now.

Your welcome -- if you need more help or have more questions please ask ---