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7mo Beardy Very Active but Not Eating

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Paranoid owner here but looking for advice.

Have a 7mo old male that has always had a great appetite. Over the past 2-3 weeks, his appetite has dropped to near 0. Used to enhale Dubias, but not anymore. I can sometimes get him to eat 2-4 if I bring his bowl to him. But, he used to run to the food. He does eat salad sometimes (greens, bell peppers, carrots)

Use a Reptisun 22” T5 10.0 HO UVB. I recently changed from a red heating bulb to a white 100w after the red 150w burnt out. Plus it was way to hot. I was using an extra coil UVB for extra light in the dual dome. Also, he did have a bit of trouble with some larger Dubias a few weeks back. Think they were too big and tough for him to digest comfortably. Had a really nasty poop. Maybe I scared him.

I mist him 2x a week. He poops regularly and no diarrhea. He is very active and curious. Basks normally. No stress lines. Not shedding currently. Good skin color and clear eyes. No visual issues with mouth rot or injury. No black bearding. Basking Spot is between 105-110 and ambient temp is 88-93. Center of tank is at 80 and cool side at 75. 40 gal tank. He’s approx 18” long nose to tail. Not skinny but his little gut that he had has gone away. Looks lean but quite healthy.

so what’s going on? Puberty? Something else?

thx!!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
Paranoid owner here but looking for advice.

Have a 7mo old male that has always had a great appetite. Over the past 2-3 weeks, his appetite has dropped to near 0. Used to enhale Dubias, but not anymore. I can sometimes get him to eat 2-4 if I bring his bowl to him. But, he used to run to the food. He does eat salad sometimes (greens, bell peppers, carrots)

Use a Reptisun 22” T5 10.0 HO UVB. I recently changed from a red heating bulb to a white 100w after the red 150w burnt out. Plus it was way to hot. I was using an extra coil UVB for extra light in the dual dome. Also, he did have a bit of trouble with some larger Dubias a few weeks back. Think they were too big and tough for him to digest comfortably. Had a really nasty poop. Maybe I scared him.

I mist him 2x a week. He poops regularly and no diarrhea. He is very active and curious. Basks normally. No stress lines. Not shedding currently. Good skin color and clear eyes. No visual issues with mouth rot or injury. No black bearding. Basking Spot is between 105-110 and ambient temp is 88-93. Center of tank is at 80 and cool side at 75. 40 gal tank. He’s approx 18” long nose to tail. Not skinny but his little gut that he had has gone away. Looks lean but quite healthy.

so what’s going on? Puberty? Something else?

thx!!
Well I can say you got rid of both culprits for the quit eating -- colored bulbs should NEVER be used as it distorts their eye site and if you were using it at night it keeps them awake all night the coil UVB is just bad all the way around -- the T 5 tho is a great bulb --- where in the tank is it? top of screen or inside the tank? Distance and placement is crucial - the basking temps I would drop down to 95-100- as they get older they like it not so hot --- temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer NO stick ons they are inaccurate -- the middle of the tank should be in the 90's cool side around 80's --- the temp at 75 is good for nite or a little cooler - anything from 65-75 is good
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Well I can say you got rid of both culprits for the quit eating -- colored bulbs should NEVER be used as it distorts their eye site and if you were using it at night it keeps them awake all night the coil UVB is just bad all the way around -- the T 5 tho is a great bulb --- where in the tank is it? top of screen or inside the tank? Distance and placement is crucial - the basking temps I would drop down to 95-100- as they get older they like it not so hot --- temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer NO stick ons they are inaccurate -- the middle of the tank should be in the 90's cool side around 80's --- the temp at 75 is good for nite or a little cooler - anything from 65-75 is good

T5 is above the screen towards the back. I may move it to the middle. But he likes to bask towards the back of the tank in his large rock. I use a digital/laser thermometer and digital probes for ambient temperature. At night, I use a heater which is on the top of the cage to keep the tank around 75. Are mid tank ambient temps to low? Should I keep the heater on all day? With the other set up, he ate a ton
 

Dexter_Dragon

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
783
Paranoid owner here but looking for advice.

Have a 7mo old male that has always had a great appetite. Over the past 2-3 weeks, his appetite has dropped to near 0. Used to enhale Dubias, but not anymore. I can sometimes get him to eat 2-4 if I bring his bowl to him. But, he used to run to the food. He does eat salad sometimes (greens, bell peppers, carrots)

Use a Reptisun 22” T5 10.0 HO UVB. I recently changed from a red heating bulb to a white 100w after the red 150w burnt out. Plus it was way to hot. I was using an extra coil UVB for extra light in the dual dome. Also, he did have a bit of trouble with some larger Dubias a few weeks back. Think they were too big and tough for him to digest comfortably. Had a really nasty poop. Maybe I scared him.

I mist him 2x a week. He poops regularly and no diarrhea. He is very active and curious. Basks normally. No stress lines. Not shedding currently. Good skin color and clear eyes. No visual issues with mouth rot or injury. No black bearding. Basking Spot is between 105-110 and ambient temp is 88-93. Center of tank is at 80 and cool side at 75. 40 gal tank. He’s approx 18” long nose to tail. Not skinny but his little gut that he had has gone away. Looks lean but quite healthy.

so what’s going on? Puberty? Something else?

thx!!
Hmmm pooing regularly and fine is good (probably not parasites then). Change of lights as Sadie suggested good. Over-all health is good. Active, but not eating much . . . weird. Might be his age.?.?

My guy does this periodically. He’ll stop eating certain things so I have to figure out what’s going on and what he wants. He went through a period a bit ago where he stopped eating crickets. Still won’t eat them. Ate up bsfl for a while, but now seems uninterested in them. We have some days where he doesn’t get much protein because what I may have on hand he won’t eat and I’m playing the “What the heck do you want!” game with him. Rascal! Right now he wants roaches. Good news is that he’s right around a year — give or take some weeks — so he’s mostly eating salads anyways.

My guy would also slow down on his eating a few days before a shed not just during. Could he be getting ready? Not an expert, just things I've observed from what my guy does. Lol Sorry I’m not more help.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
T5 is above the screen towards the back. I may move it to the middle. But he likes to bask towards the back of the tank in his large rock. I use a digital/laser thermometer and digital probes for ambient temperature. At night, I use a heater which is on the top of the cage to keep the tank around 75. Are mid tank ambient temps to low? Should I keep the heater on all day? With the other set up, he ate a ton
the UVB needs to be inside the tank if that screen is a fine mesh like a screen door - it can stay on top IF the screen is a wide hole type the screen acts as a filter and will filter out approx 30% of UVB rays -- w/ that being said inside the tank 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor ---- on top of wide screen 8-10 inches directly above the basking decor -- yes you can use the che to get temps up in the middle of the tank you want it in the 90's - your basking temps and UVB are the two most important things in that tank
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Hmmm pooing regularly and fine is good (probably not parasites then). Change of lights as Sadie suggested good. Over-all health is good. Active, but not eating much . . . weird. Might be his age.?.?

My guy does this periodically. He’ll stop eating certain things so I have to figure out what’s going on and what he wants. He went through a period a bit ago where he stopped eating crickets. Still won’t eat them. Ate up bsfl for a while, but now seems uninterested in them. We have some days where he doesn’t get much protein because what I may have on hand he won’t eat and I’m playing the “What the heck do you want!” game with him. Rascal! Right now he wants roaches. Good news is that he’s right around a year — give or take some weeks — so he’s mostly eating salads anyways.

My guy would also slow down on his eating a few days before a shed not just during. Could he be getting ready? Not an expert, just things I've observed from what my guy does. Lol Sorry I’m not more help.
Thanks. His color is fading a bit is his indicator to start shedding. Shedding rate has slowed down/not as often. I am going to see if a few superworms tempt him. How do BSFL compare to Dubias? Easy to maintain?
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
the UVB needs to be inside the tank if that screen is a fine mesh like a screen door - it can stay on top IF the screen is a wide hole type the screen acts as a filter and will filter out approx 30% of UVB rays -- w/ that being said inside the tank 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor ---- on top of wide screen 8-10 inches directly above the basking decor -- yes you can use the che to get temps up in the middle of the tank you want it in the 90's - your basking temps and UVB are the two most important things in that tank
It’s a fine mesh with a little trap door. Right now, it sits approx 4-6” above the basking decor (large/mountain with cave for hiding.)

see pic (I was testing lights) but you can see the top of the basking rock. He was a baby in this.
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
It’s a fine mesh with a little trap door. Right now, it sits approx 4-6” above the basking decor (large/mountain with cave for hiding.)

see pic (I was testing lights) but you can see the top of the basking rock. He was a baby in this.
Yes the colored bulbs cause all kinds of eye issues the coil UVB's are a terrible uvb-- please get your T 5 in the tank - directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches-- a bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 95-100 and taken w/ a digital probe thermometer
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Yes the colored bulbs cause all kinds of eye issues the coil UVB's are a terrible uvb-- please get your T 5 in the tank - directly above the basking decor 12-15 inches-- a bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 95-100 and taken w/ a digital probe thermometer
What is the best way to mount it? I don’t want him to get to close since he likes to sit at the top of the rock and he is much larger now.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
What is the best way to mount it? I don’t want him to get to close since he likes to sit at the top of the rock and he is much larger now.
It is optimal to have the UVB and the basking light close together but not necessary - you can hang in the middle of the tank towards front or back as long as he can get directly under it
you can use some of these things to hang w/
3 M command Velcro fasteners- picture hanging wire – long plastic zip tie-- fishing line-- potted plant wire hangers- or this stuff I use it it works great its like a Velcro strap cut into strips then wrap around the fixture https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-15-ft-Cable-Ties-Hook-and-Loop-Spool-Black-10375/304220195
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
It is optimal to have the UVB and the basking light close together but not necessary - you can hang in the middle of the tank towards front or back as long as he can get directly under it
you can use some of these things to hang w/
3 M command Velcro fasteners- picture hanging wire – long plastic zip tie-- fishing line-- potted plant wire hangers- or this stuff I use it it works great its like a Velcro strap cut into strips then wrap around the fixture https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-15-ft-Cable-Ties-Hook-and-Loop-Spool-Black-10375/304220195
Thx. Could this attribute to the sudden change in behavior?
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
Thx. Could this attribute to the sudden change in behavior?
Yes the colored bulb and coil were the cause of the stopped eating-- get your uvb situated and basking temps and you should see a increase in appetite and it won't take long
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
Thing is, he ate great with the other lighting
Yes dragons will hide illness for as long as they can - one day a dragon maybe walking fine and the next day they can't move-- I see this all the time-- they will hide a illness it's their instinct to do this- be thankful you caught it now-- w/ the abrupt not eating - I will get some info posted on UVB's
 

Mr Feldman

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Yes dragons will hide illness for as long as they can - one day a dragon maybe walking fine and the next day they can't move-- I see this all the time-- they will hide a illness it's their instinct to do this- be thankful you caught it now-- w/ the abrupt not eating - I will get some info posted on UVB's
I will make the adjustments and take pics to verify things are right.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
12,447
I will make the adjustments and take pics to verify things are right.
Here is some info from a while back that a person on another forum did research since then a lot of info has been added about colored lights
Bright white lights are better. The colored bulbs are designed more for nocturnal reptiles that can't see in color. Beardies can see in color though and they can see those lights, so it kinda defeats the purpose of them. The main reason you need a bright white basking light is to protect their eyes from the UVB light- Without another non-UVB light, it would be like you looking into the sun all day, which can majorly mess up your eyes.
Not to mention that beardies LOVE lots of bright light. Since their from the desert, they are little sun worshipers. Brighter lights = Happier, more active beardie.
Here is the info on the UVB
Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8 inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--
 

Dexter_Dragon

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
783
Thanks. His color is fading a bit is his indicator to start shedding. Shedding rate has slowed down/not as often. I am going to see if a few superworms tempt him. How do BSFL compare to Dubias? Easy to maintain?
Yeah, my guy's slowed down on his shedding drastically. Yesterday and today I noticed he's getting lighter so I'm thinking he's heading for a shed. It's been a few months since his last. Before it seemed he was shedding every other week. His appetite was off yesterday and he hasn't eaten much today. His morning salad was untouched and he's only eaten two of his "chocolate worms". He'll be this way for the next few days and once he starts the actual shed his appetite will start increasing again. It's his routine. lol

My guy luvs the superworms. He thinks they are chocolate dipped in sprinkles and would eat mass quantities if I let him. Limit daily intake as they are very fatty (low on protein) and hard for them to digest in quantities from what I'm told. They are more a treat than a protein staple.

BSFL vs Dubia: I've found they are both easy keepers. I prefer the Dubia because they are larger and he doesn't need to eat as many to get his protein intake. I've discovered that even the large BSFL are only big enough for a salad additive. He won't eat them otherwise as they are so small he feels it's not worth his effort. lol It's my understanding that BSFL are high in calcium content so they are a great staple feeder. I'd have to purchase large quantities to feel he's getting enough protein, though, if that's all I fed him. To cover my bases I provide both.
 
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