FINALLY!!!!!!

[lexi]

We got a Brazilian Rainbow Boa over a month ago. She was shedding when we got her (she's young, got her from a breeder) and so she wouldn't eat the first few weeks. The breeder advised us to wait until she had done 3 successful feedings before handling her. About 4 days ago, she finished her 3rd feeding since she got here. We are very excited that we can finally start handling her and working with her a bit to get her tame.

That said, any suggestions? I've read just about everything out there on BRBs, snake taming and the like. These guys are rumored to be more snappy as babies but as adults (with the right handling and care) they are usually pretty easy to handle. I know I'm going to get bit, more than likely, and I'm okay with that. I accepted that as part of the process before we got her. We're going to start with only a few minutes a day, and of course, skip that on the days we feed her and for 48 hours after.

 

[ladyknite]

I have alot of different species of snake.
boas are more snippy than balls on a good day. But generally, if you handle them frequently, that will pass. That doesn't mean when she's excited she won't seek out the largest heat source.

years ago I purchased a very soft pair of leathers. Initially this is what I use. I've been bit by some pretty nice species.......and lemme tell you.....you can live without it. lol..........
You are correct, at some time you will be bit. Tagged is less injury, less pain and less emotional baggage. Bit is spending 7 hrs. in the hospital getting stitches in your groin because you pulled back. The moral of that story is when you DO get bit, don't jerk back. She most likely is warning you and WILL release. Either that or you can force her......but jerking backward will cause more injury to you, and possibly hurt your boa.(age dependant)

Most are head shy. Lift her with your left hand (unless you're left handed) and allow her to wrap around your arm. Long sleeves of soft material are suggested until you know her strength and intent. use your right hand to cup her head and she will bow. Once she does, slowly remove your hand and allow her to come back up. As long as she doesn't present the back stance of a strike, you're ok.
Most snakes "jump" slightly when you invade their space. Its a knee jerk reaction. Don't allow it to make you recoil.

 

[lexi]

You are correct, at some time you will be bit. Tagged is less injury, less pain and less emotional baggage. Bit is spending 7 hrs. in the hospital getting stitches in your groin because you pulled back. The moral of that story is when you DO get bit, don't jerk back.

Thank you very much for the tips! I have a Green Iguana, so I definitely know how to just take it and not pull away. Much more damage if you retract!

I had avoided gloves because I heard horror stories about snakes getting their fangs caught in them. Is this not the case with the soft leather ones? My ex had birds (Rainbow Lorikeet, Blue Streaked Lory and a Green Parrot) and THAT is a bite you can live without. OUCH! :-[

 

[ladyknite]

Gloves are made of different things. I have some with weighted "chain mail" type lining. Great protective gear...............for burmese, not for boas.
The gloves i use for boas, balls, and small retics are made of soft leather. They fit closely to my hands. If the snake breaks the glove, you will be tagged, but when they withdraw, it's like withdrawing from skin. usually however, when snakes strike, it's a warning. They're not usually looking to bite down.

I saw a pair offered on kingsnake not long ago, but i forget who from. Sometimes, leather work gloves will work, they're shorter, and not as protective, but have the same type of leather. And you can buy them in sizes.

 

[Red Ink AUS]

I had (thank god for that past tense) a very snappy cage protective bat eater. I have been working with her now since Nov 09, I found the one thing that has really made a difference in our reltionship is a snake hook. I use this to get her in and out of her "click clack" enclosure as we are not at the stage yet where i can grab her from there bare handed.

At the start as soon as the click clack opens and she sees me i get this.

I soon learnt very fast to read her moods (best way not to get bitten or tagged), all i would do is wait for the rapid tounge flicking to stop, the tension in the body to ease and for her to move around and exploring (not retreating from me). Then I know that this is the time i can actually hook her. Over time in the past few months things are a lot better, she does not coil to strike automatically she would just sit there and let me lift her up with the hook. At the early stages i got a lot of "bluff strikes" into the air and could actually only handle her for a couple of minutes. Nowadays i walk around with her and even sit and watch tv for 15 mins with her happily settled on my hand. She even tolerates me now to the extent that she would purposely seek out my other hand to climb on if it's front of her. That is something that i would have never done a few months back as she would strike at anything in front of her face.

I also handle her at the same time of the day each time. I don't do it a day before feeding and certainly not until two days after a feeding.

Time, patience and understanding/reading their moods are the best tools you can apply to have a snake tolerate you and trust you.

 

[lexi]

I had (thank god for that past tense) a very snappy cage protective bat eater. I have been working with her now since Nov 09, I found the one thing that has really made a difference in our reltionship is a snake hook. I use this to get her in and out of her "click clack" enclosure as we are not at the stage yet where i can grab her from there bare handed.

At the start as soon as the click clack opens and she sees me i get this.

I soon learnt very fast to read her moods (best way not to get bitten or tagged), all i would do is wait for the rapid tounge flicking to stop, the tension in the body to ease and for her to move around and exploring (not retreating from me). Then I know that this is the time i can actually hook her. Over time in the past few months things are a lot better, she does not coil to strike automatically she would just sit there and let me lift her up with the hook. At the early stages i got a lot of "bluff strikes" into the air and could actually only handle her for a couple of minutes. Nowadays i walk around with her and even sit and watch tv for 15 mins with her happily settled on my hand. She even tolerates me now to the extent that she would purposely seek out my other hand to climb on if it's front of her. That is something that i would have never done a few months back as she would strike at anything in front of her face.

I also handle her at the same time of the day each time. I don't do it a day before feeding and certainly not until two days after a feeding.

Time, patience and understanding/reading their moods are the best tools you can apply to have a snake tolerate you and trust you.

Beautiful snake

Things are going slowly... I was determined not to use a hook or gloves, but I may have to at this point. My concern, really, is not getting tagged or bit on the hand, but getting tagged or bit on the FACE. She's almost 3 feet long now (born Nov. '09) and if she's in my hand she could easily get my face if she wanted to.