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relocation stress handling period

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Hello! this is my bearded dragons 4th day home he still seems inactive and hasn't been eating regularly but he's not skittish when I put my hand near him or into the enclosure. Should I still wait at least a week or until he starts eating regularly before trying to handle him?
 

Sadie

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Hello! this is my bearded dragons 4th day home he still seems inactive and hasn't been eating regularly but he's not skittish when I put my hand near him or into the enclosure. Should I still wait at least a week or until he starts eating regularly before trying to handle him?
He should be active and eating something - hes going thru relocation stress - please let him acclimate to the tank and his surroundings before handling him - he will just stress out more - please offer water dropped on his head to see if he will lick - bathing will stress him out as well -- make sure your lighting is up to par --- surface basking temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer 105-110 for a baby --- a clear solid bright white basking bulb being used -- examples like Flukers basking -- Exo Terra Intense or a Arcadia Halogen --- a long tube fixture for a UVB ---- NO coils please here are some examples Zoo Med w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 -- Arcadia Pro T 5 w/ a 12% bulb or a Sunblaster Nano Tech w/ the Resptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb --- if you need anymore help please ask -- these things I posted are extremely important for your dragon --
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
He should be active and eating something - hes going thru relocation stress - please let him acclimate to the tank and his surroundings before handling him - he will just stress out more - please offer water dropped on his head to see if he will lick - bathing will stress him out as well -- make sure your lighting is up to par --- surface basking temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer 105-110 for a baby --- a clear solid bright white basking bulb being used -- examples like Flukers basking -- Exo Terra Intense or a Arcadia Halogen --- a long tube fixture for a UVB ---- NO coils please here are some examples Zoo Med w/ a Reptisun 10.0 T 5 -- Arcadia Pro T 5 w/ a 12% bulb or a Sunblaster Nano Tech w/ the Resptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb --- if you need anymore help please ask -- these things I posted are extremely important for your dragon --
Another question, is it normal for him to be not moving much and sleeping/basking all day? And could this have to do with the relocation stress?
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
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Another question, is it normal for him to be not moving much and sleeping/basking all day? And could this have to do with the relocation stress?
He should be active --- relocation stress shouldnt have anything to do w/ not being active- Is all your surface basking temps and UVB correct? This has a huge impact on the dragons overall health and everything about him-- please post a pic of the tank and his lighting and him
 
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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
He should be active --- relocation stress shouldnt have anything to do w/ not being active- Is all your surface basking temps and UVB correct? This has a huge impact on the dragons overall health and everything about him-- please post a pic of the tank and his lighting and him
The basking area is 104 degrees F and the cool side is 75 degrees F
 

Sadie

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The basking area is 104 degrees F and the cool side is 75 degrees F
Is the basking temp a surface basking temp and being taken w/ a digital probe thermometer? 75 is too cool for daytime ambient temps it should be around 80ish
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Is the basking temp a surface basking temp and being taken w/ a digital probe thermometer? 75 is too cool for daytime ambient temps it should be around 80ish
Yes, surface basking temperature.
 

Sadie

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Yes, surface basking temperature.
You didnt say what UVB you were using-- if its a coil they are no good and will cause all kinds of health issues-
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
You didnt say what UVB you were using-- if its a coil they are no good and will cause all kinds of health issues-
It's not a coil, it's Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5HO. Also, could the non-activeness be a result to dehydration? I've not seen him drink water since I first got him (this would be the 5th day). I gave him a 15 minute bath with Zoo Med Reptile Electrolyte Soak and he started drinking the water right away for a solid 30 seconds.
 

Sadie

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It's not a coil, it's Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 UVB T5HO. Also, could the non-activeness be a result to dehydration? I've not seen him drink water since I first got him (this would be the 5th day). I gave him a 15 minute bath with Zoo Med Reptile Electrolyte Soak and he started drinking the water right away for a solid 30 seconds.
Ok please start rinsing the greens before serving - most dragons get their hydration from those--- you can drop water on his nose a couple of times per week to see if he will lick - watch his poops - it should be dark and moist and formed the urate should be formed white and moist -- if its dry and chalky looking he dehydrated - the UVB is in the tank or on top of your screen? Screens need to be a wide hole type to be on top w/ the basking decor piece directly underneath 8-10 inches - screens will block 30% of the UVB rays
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Ok please start rinsing the greens before serving - most dragons get their hydration from those--- you can drop water on his nose a couple of times per week to see if he will lick - watch his poops - it should be dark and moist and formed the urate should be formed white and moist -- if its dry and chalky looking he dehydrated - the UVB is in the tank or on top of your screen? Screens need to be a wide hole type to be on top w/ the basking decor piece directly underneath 8-10 inches - screens will block 30% of the UVB rays
I will rinse the greens. He hasn't eaten anything much since I got him, probably about 10 waxworms and none of the greens. As far as the UVB it's above the screen but he's also not even went on that side of the tank as far as I've seen. I think it will be beneficial if I keep bathing him with the electrolytes so I will do that. He has pooped about once a day since I got him as well. Wasn't much though mostly white.
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Ok please start rinsing the greens before serving - most dragons get their hydration from those--- you can drop water on his nose a couple of times per week to see if he will lick - watch his poops - it should be dark and moist and formed the urate should be formed white and moist -- if its dry and chalky looking he dehydrated - the UVB is in the tank or on top of your screen? Screens need to be a wide hole type to be on top w/ the basking decor piece directly underneath 8-10 inches - screens will block 30% of the UVB rays
Also, he is currently shedding if that will help with any conclusions.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
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Also, he is currently shedding if that will help with any conclusions.
Well hes hydrated --- which that is not a problem w/ eating --- shedding will throw the appetite off --- but not the basking -- I need pics of the tank please and your lighting --- please stop the wax worms -- they are fatty and too many and fed to often will / can cause liver issues -- you want a staple feeder like dubia roaches or crickets or BSFL or silk worms -- I recommend BSFL and dubias -- www.dubiaroaches.com go by their chart on the website for the roaches no bigger than the space between the eyes --- the BSFL know on this site as nutri grubs order medium for a dragon around 2 months or younger if hes 3 months get the large - please dust the dubias w/ calcium D3 lightly coated ONE time per feeding 5 x per week -- vitamins w/ beta carotene lightly coated ONE time per feeding 2 x per week --- he is a baby? He should be fed 2-3 times per day --- his diet is mostly protein now but when he turns a year old he will go to insects 2-3 times per week --- the BSFL can be used as salad lures to the salad bowl - drop them in front of him to get his attention then about a hr later feed him the dubias - 10-15 it will depend on how many BSFL he eats -- get him some small super worms again depending on how big he is feed 1-3 on top of his salads every other day -- that will get him to the salad bowl --- https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale info its outdated
too many baths will dry his scales out and hes getting stressed from them -- please drop water on his nose so he licks and does not get so stressed from the bathing - you dont need all the electrolyte soaks--
you dont want him to aspirate w/ him drinking so fast or so much water at a time -- w/ you dropping water on his nose you will be able to control that --- please post a pic of the tank
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Well hes hydrated --- which that is not a problem w/ eating --- shedding will throw the appetite off --- but not the basking -- I need pics of the tank please and your lighting --- please stop the wax worms -- they are fatty and too many and fed to often will / can cause liver issues -- you want a staple feeder like dubia roaches or crickets or BSFL or silk worms -- I recommend BSFL and dubias -- www.dubiaroaches.com go by their chart on the website for the roaches no bigger than the space between the eyes --- the BSFL know on this site as nutri grubs order medium for a dragon around 2 months or younger if hes 3 months get the large - please dust the dubias w/ calcium D3 lightly coated ONE time per feeding 5 x per week -- vitamins w/ beta carotene lightly coated ONE time per feeding 2 x per week --- he is a baby? He should be fed 2-3 times per day --- his diet is mostly protein now but when he turns a year old he will go to insects 2-3 times per week --- the BSFL can be used as salad lures to the salad bowl - drop them in front of him to get his attention then about a hr later feed him the dubias - 10-15 it will depend on how many BSFL he eats -- get him some small super worms again depending on how big he is feed 1-3 on top of his salads every other day -- that will get him to the salad bowl --- https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale info its outdated
too many baths will dry his scales out and hes getting stressed from them -- please drop water on his nose so he licks and does not get so stressed from the bathing - you dont need all the electrolyte soaks--
you dont want him to aspirate w/ him drinking so fast or so much water at a time -- w/ you dropping water on his nose you will be able to control that --- please post a pic of the tank
IMG_0777.jpg

I've got some Dubia roaches as well. He just pooped and it was only clear watery like substance. right after he pooped he started running around and glass surfing (most action I've seen from him yet) so I assume that is a good sign. The left side of the enclosure are aspen wood shavings and the reptile store kept them in them with no issues.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
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Messages
10,786
View attachment 33376
I've got some Dubia roaches as well. He just pooped and it was only clear watery like substance. right after he pooped he started running around and glass surfing (most action I've seen from him yet) so I assume that is a good sign. The left side of the enclosure are aspen wood shavings and the reptile store kept them in them with no issues.
Ok I would get rid of the aspen wood shavings babies lick everything and we dont want him impacted w/ those --- you can keep what every is under the rocks/ food bowls but I would look at getting some textured NON adhesive shelf liner cut to the size of the tank insects cannot get underneath and its easier to keep clean - vinegar/ water 50/50 -- the screen on the tank is a fine mesh from what I can tell -- it needs to go inside the tank directly over a piece of basking decor 12-15 inches --- this could be a good reason hes not eating enough and not very active -- this bulb is imperative to his health --
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Ok I would get rid of the aspen wood shavings babies lick everything and we dont want him impacted w/ those --- you can keep what every is under the rocks/ food bowls but I would look at getting some textured NON adhesive shelf liner cut to the size of the tank insects cannot get underneath and its easier to keep clean - vinegar/ water 50/50 -- the screen on the tank is a fine mesh from what I can tell -- it needs to go inside the tank directly over a piece of basking decor 12-15 inches --- this could be a good reason hes not eating enough and not very active -- this bulb is imperative to his health --
Gotcha, I think the dehydration was what was causing this. He's started moving around and way more active than before.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
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Messages
10,786
Gotcha, I think the dehydration was what was causing this. He's started moving around and way more active than before.
Ok well please get the UVB moved if you need help w/ things to hang please ask and I will post them for you- once that UVB is in the tank watch the behavior and the appetite -- the screen is blocking 30% of the rays
 

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Hatchling Dragon
Messages
47
Location
USA
Ok well please get the UVB moved if you need help w/ things to hang please ask and I will post them for you- once that UVB is in the tank watch the behavior and the appetite -- the screen is blocking 30% of the rays
How do you recommend hanging it up?
 

Sadie

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How do you recommend hanging it up?
3 M Velcro fasteners --- fishing line--- long plastic zip ties or picture wire hanger - or thin welding rod that is bendable
 
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