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not eating/unusual behavior

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
I'm new here, but I was on dragontank forever. I have raised several dragons in the past, then moved on to a blue tongue skink. I did get my girlfriend a beardie recently, but it is displaying some unusual behavior. He isn't eating well, no real food response. I have given him baby food and pinkies, he is currently 10 months old. I suspected a parasite, so I took him to our vet for a fecal, which came back clean. He sleeps all the time and only eats if I make him. I considered brumation, but it is the middle of summer and he started this when he was only 7 months old. I thought if it were brumation he might snap out of it with regular lighting and such. His temps are good, has calcium in the food I can get him to eat. I am noticing his movements in his legs are somewhat jerky, which is concerning me more now. I have another vet I used previously when I lived about an hour from here, should I get a second opinion? Only other thing that is odd is that he now keeps his mouth very slightly open with the tip of his tongue sticking out... kind of weird!
 

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Anthony Radford

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
125
It's really looking and sounding like he may be getting MBD. So I'd say yes- get a second opinion. Preferably by a specialized or herp vet. From my research, the jerky motions, mouth open etc is a sign of MBD. I'd also recommend more calcium in his diet, maybe even feed him BSFL's as they are very high in calcium. What are his temps? UVB level? Inadequate UVB can also lead to MBD.
 

mxw0rld

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
940
Hi and welcome!

It does sound like MBD is setting in. I am personally working with a lady who's 3 year old dragon DOES have MBD, her legs twitch and her mouth does hang open. She is force feeding her critical care powder, bee pollen, probiotics, electrolytes, prebiotics, vitamins, calcium, Pedialyte all mixed in with the baby food.

If this has been going on for 3 months then yes get a second opinion. I wouldn't let this go a day. What are his temps, can you tell us that? To me, it sounds like lighting issue. All BD's will not eat if the lighting is off.

BSFL's are the best thing for calcium! If you can macerate some of those in his slurry that would be great.

Did he ever eat any greens? If so, what did he eat?

Not sure nail polish is a good idea either. The fumes for one have to be bad besides it looks odd.
 

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
It's really looking and sounding like he may be getting MBD. So I'd say yes- get a second opinion. Preferably by a specialized or herp vet. From my research, the jerky motions, mouth open etc is a sign of MBD. I'd also recommend more calcium in his diet, maybe even feed him BSFL's as they are very high in calcium. What are his temps? UVB level? Inadequate UVB can also lead to MBD.


He has had UVA and UVB bulbs from day one, and was eating crickets and large mealworms with calcium dusted on them. I'm not sure about BSFL's? He seemed to be doing very well, then he just tapered off on eating. Cool end is 85, warm end gets to 105 at his basking rock. The vet is the local herp vet, but I haven't used him as I lived an hour from here until recently. I may check into taking him to my old vet. Where do you get some of the supplies you just mentioned? Bee pollen and such?
 

Anthony Radford

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
125
What are his temps in his enclosure??? And how do you measure them? Either too cool or even too warm WILL impact their eating, appetite and health. Also, make sure the UVB bulb is still radiating UVB rays. There are little "credit card" meters you can get to test. Just because the bulb is giving off light doesn't mean it's giving off rays.

What kind/size lights are you using? Size of enclosure? How old are the bulbs?
 

Anthony Radford

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
125
A lot of bulbs need replacing every SIX months. You said he was about 7 months old when this started, so old bulbs could fit into that timeframe as a culprit.
 

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
What are his temps in his enclosure??? And how do you measure them? Either too cool or even too warm WILL impact their eating, appetite and health. Also, make sure the UVB bulb is still radiating UVB rays. There are little "credit card" meters you can get to test. Just because the bulb is giving off light doesn't mean it's giving off rays.

What kind/size lights are you using? Size of enclosure? How old are the bulbs?
40 gallon breeder, bulbs are two months old, 85 at cool end by a Zoomed temperature/humidity gauge, 105 on his heat rock by my laser thermometer.
 

Eavlynn

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
978
The twitchy movements are a sign of MBD. First step to fixing that is to replace your UBV bulb. What type of bulb are you using? What kind of basking behavior does he exhibit? Does he spend a lot of time under his basking light, or hang out in the cool side? What's his activity level: active, or more lethargic? And what type and size of enclosure is he in, a tank or a custom set up?

I'd definitely get a second opinion from your old herp vet. And if you're able to post a photo of his setup, that could help us help you as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
The twitchy movements are a sign of MBD. First step to fixing that is to replace your UBV bulb. What type of bulb are you using? What kind of basking behavior does he exhibit? Does he spend a lot of time under his basking light, or hang out in the cool side? What's his activity level: active, or more lethargic? And what type and size of enclosure is he in, a tank or a custom set up?

I'd definitely get a second opinion from your old herp vet. And if you're able to post a photo of his setup, that could help us help you as well.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

I'll see what the brand is when I get to her house and get a picture. He is lethargic, doesn't seem to care where he basks. He is in a 40 gallon breeder
 

mxw0rld

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
940
You've got those temps way TOO high. They need to dropped down asap to 90-95. That's why he's not basking.

Did you say heat rock?????? A rock that heats up? If so get that out of there!

You can even go to 80 on the cool side.

What about night time temps?
 

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
Oh, and I was wrong on the tank size, my gf has not moved him up to his 40 gallon tank yet. We are moving in two months, and she is still keeping him in the 20 gallon until we move. I'll take pictures here in a bit.
 

mxw0rld

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
940
That's small for a 10 month. How big is he? Cuz in a 20 gallon he is not getting the right stages of heat and cold. He needs a hot spot, warm spot, and a cool spot. He's too big to be able to do that properly in a 20 gallon.
 

codycr6

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
29
You've got those temps way TOO high. They need to dropped down asap to 90-95. That's why he's not basking.

Did you say heat rock?????? A rock that heats up? If so get that out of there!

You can even go to 80 on the cool side.

What about night time temps?

no heat rock, that is just the temperature of a rock/cave in his enclosure on his basking side. Night temps don't drop a ton because his main source of heat is an emitter.
 

mxw0rld

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
940
no heat rock, that is just the temperature of a rock/cave in his enclosure on his basking side. Night temps don't drop a ton because his main source of heat is an emitter.

That's way TOO hot/high for a 10 month old.
 

RaeAnn

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
859
I'm new here, but I was on dragontank forever. I have raised several dragons in the past, then moved on to a blue tongue skink. I did get my girlfriend a beardie recently, but it is displaying some unusual behavior. He isn't eating well, no real food response. I have given him baby food and pinkies, he is currently 10 months old. I suspected a parasite, so I took him to our vet for a fecal, which came back clean. He sleeps all the time and only eats if I make him. I considered brumation, but it is the middle of summer and he started this when he was only 7 months old. I thought if it were brumation he might snap out of it with regular lighting and such. His temps are good, has calcium in the food I can get him to eat. I am noticing his movements in his legs are somewhat jerky, which is concerning me more now. I have another vet I used previously when I lived about an hour from here, should I get a second opinion? Only other thing that is odd is that he now keeps his mouth very slightly open with the tip of his tongue sticking out... kind of weird!

I'm sorry to hear you are going through this :(
Tongue slightly sticking out and jerky movements are signs of MBD. What type of UVB light are you using? How often are you dusting with a calcium supplement? Do you use calcium with or without D3?

She's absolutely beautiful by the way, and I love her toenails too cute! Hopefully we can help you tackle this issue and get her back in good shape


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Eavlynn

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
978
He's nearing adulthood, so it's time to drop him down to adult temps. I usually aim to keep my basking spot at 95. He definitely needs that 40 gallon too, 20 is more than just a little small. It might be more difficult to move, but its in the little guys best interest, which is all that matters, right? We can help you work out the kinks in husbandry and get him happy and healthy. It's possible to halt the progression of the MBD, but it's going to take a little extra effort on your part.

Once you move him to a 40, you'll want a fluorescent tube style UVB light. Since it's going to be filtered through a screen top, you'll want an elevated area so he can get closer to it, as well as a basking area of 95F in one corner of the tank. I find an elevated basking platform helps to keep the rest of the enclosure cool when working with screen top enclosures. With some extra calcium, and some outdoor time in the sun, he should be just fine. If you're able to take him outside, limit the amount of supplemental D3. It's easy to go overboard with it, and too much D3 may discourage natural basking behaviors.

Another thing, which is totally optional, is replacing the CHE with a legit basking light. Definitely something you'd want to consider for the 40 gallon. When beardies bask in the wild, they bask in the sun, so replicating natural conditions to the best of your ability can go a long way in improving the quality of life for your dragon. So long as the nighttime temps don't fall below 65F, you're golden. I used to use a CHE for basking and heating at night. Since I did away with it, my little dude is much more active.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

mxw0rld

Bearded Dragon Veteran
Messages
940
I can see a few problems. The sand is a big NO NO, the stick also needs to come out. You do know they have a third eye on the top of their head and anything above them will scare them. The lighting is not the tube style UVB that is recommended. (ReptiSun) The tube UVB covers the entire tank and crosses over the basking spot.

Does he drink out of the water dish? I would get rid of that. Dragons normally don't see standing water and do not know how to drink out of a dish. Most of the time they get their water from the misting and baths. Some of us will drop water on their lips.

I thought you said you raised BD's before?
 
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