After about 25 years of owning iguanas, the last one passed at 16 years old last summer, we were finally ready for another baby and got this baby beardie. We had researched of course but still have so many questions because this is our first. We are so amazed at how calm and unafraid he/she is. Our baby iguana had to be handled in the bathroom with the door closed because she was so flighty for the first few weeks but this beardie is just content to sit calmly on our hand or chest. It looks very healthy, bright eyed and active. We have only had ”Sal” for a week and so far eating has been good but sporadic…one day 3-4 live crickets, one day 9 crickets plus a couple canned crickets each day. We offer Missouri bearded dragon pellets(is that okay) and small bits of veggie and fruit(so far Sal won’t eat this). Poops look normal but even after 11 small crickets the amount seems minimal. She had a full body peel yesterday…head and body including legs but not tail. I don’t have concerns…should I?
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New beardie baby
- Thread starter bburdie
- Start date
Welcome to beardie world---- what kind of UVB are you using? Surface basking temps and your UVB are the most important things in the tank ---- surface basking temps should be taken w/ a digital probe thermometer I see no gauges in the tank at all -- you want those surface temps 105-110 --- UVB NO coils -- they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health issues -- hes going thru relocation stress so his eating will be off -- if he stops eating all together something is off in the tank --- no pellets please -- you want fresh salads everyday offered -- insects are the main diet but you want him eating a little salad as well -- http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html Ignore the kale info it is outdated and a great staple feeder- I would get him on dubia roaches they are a better feeder and less hassle to deal w/ than the crickets -- I can post websites to order from - another good staple is BSFL great for babies and a good compliment to the main insect --- www.symtonbsf.com - they are a small larvae do not dust them they are full of calcium--- are you dusting the crickets? calcium D3? vitamins w/ beta carotene?
TY for all the info links, very much appreciated. We are using a coil type UV bulb…didn’t know they were not good. If this helps, we live in the desert and take Sal out in a different container that we bought for feeding live insects and we set her in the sun for 10-15 minutes…depending on how hot it is out there but can tell Sal likes the ‘real’ sun outings each day. We stay right with Sal the entire time to be sure of how hot he/she may get. Yesterday was only out about 10 minutes because mouth opened to try and cool down. I guess we will need calcium and D3 as well.
Please get rid of the coil and get 2 digital probe thermometers --- Zoo Med makes them - taking her out in the sun and supervising is great but she will need a good UVB in the tank for when days are too hot to get outside --I am posting 3 of them pick one and when you get it let me know I will help you place it for the tank - your screen will determine where it goes
you want a 24" for a 40+ gallon tank - this fixture comes w/ a 5.0 bulb great for smaller tanks you need the bulb I am going to post https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-high-output-terrarium-hood?variant=40651
22" bulb https://www.petmountain.com/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-100-uvb-high-output-bulbs?variant=40630
or this one Pet Smart has them you want the 24 watt 12% bulb
https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/en...v-b-kit-65058.html?cgid=500114&fmethod=Browse
or this fixture 2 ft or 24" you will need to replace the bulb w/ the one posted above
dusting the insects w/ calcium D3 5 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated
vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated
your UVB is going to help the dragon absorb / synthesize the calcium hes getting this is going to prevent MBD
TY, I will have my husband look into these things after work. With as much reading as we did, we still have adjustments and I am grateful we are learning this early on for the best care. We do have a temperature probe in for the heat lamp and we check it often with one of those handheld laser type thermometers but we have read very conflicting advice for daytime and nighttime temps. We were keeping the temp too high at night and we found out because the little fella wanted to sleep in a much cooler spot in the enclosure. 85 at night is apparently warmer than Sal wants but now is content to sleep in the ‘cave’ since lowering the temp at night to 75-80. The daytime temps you suggest are about 10 degrees warmer than what we had read and I tend to believe you are absolutely correct as when we take sal out in the sun, that’s where the poops happen. We had daytime temps set for 95-100…about 10 degrees shy of what you said so we need to raise that. I have thermometers but they are not in yet because we were moving…hence, why we keep checking by hand but I will find that and my hygrometer this week.Thanks again.
Night time temps should be 65-75 and dark-- he will go thru relocation stress- w/ the move - ir guns can be off depending on certain materials of basking decor - it is best to use your probes- those temps I gave for basking are what starts digestion - that temp will change around 6 months of age-- then temps would be 95-100
I spoke with my husband and he says that these changes all make good sense but he does have a question. He would like to know why the spiral UV lights are not good because they had the same rating as the straight bulb. Thankyou!
Here is some info on long tube fixtures and coils
Bearded Dragons require full spectrum lighting for 12-14 hours a day. Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% tubes are known to provide some of the best full UVB for your dragons. The coils or compacts of the same brand aren't recommended, as they have shown to cause eye problems and reduction of appetite. The Reptiglo brand is also not recommended, tube, coil or compact, as it has been associated with causing eye problems, lethargy and not eating. These fluorescent bulbs should be 2/3rds of the tank should be able to come within 12-15 inches of the light. The UVB should be mounted inside the tank to allow your dragon 100% of the UVB. On top of the tank can filter out up to 50% of the UVB rays your dragon needs. Mercury vapour bulbs are also a good heat & UVB source, but to allow your dragon full use of the UVB it is best to not use the mesh tank tops. Mounting them on a lampstand with a dome without using a top will allow full use of the UVB. Having the correct type of UVB light is also important to help their bones develop strong and healthy.
Here is a pic of of one of many that I have seen that had a coil for a UVB most of its life - this was posted on this site a while back and I tried to get these people to change the coil out and they did not so I can only assume the dragon is no longer living --
My husband ordered the new light, it will be here Saturday. Fortunately he works in engineering so even though he will have to make a new screen top to be able to use the new light. The top currently has 4 sections separated by plastic strips. We will also be getting the rest of the stuff you mentioned in order. All this info has been so helpful, we are grateful.
Ok let me know when you set the uvb up so we can get it properly placed for the screen/ tank-- if you need anymore help w/ feeding- websites for insects etc or more questions please ask -
Good morning Sadie,
We found all the stuff we had packed and got the multivitamins with beta-carotene and the calcium with D3. I had read somewhere that you give D3 three times a week and multivitamin the other four days, is that correct? Picking up new food today, trying the dubia roaches along with more crickets. Sal seems to have a varied appetite from day to day and eats varying amounts...like our iguanas, Sal seems to eat less on days of peeling. He's peeled twice in two weeks time and we are keeping track of weight and length...although we will only have had him 2 weeks tomorrow. We plan once a week while he is this small so he was weighed and measured twice so far.
The light came last night and I am posting a pic of the top of the cage to explain what my husband plans on doing. He has not started yet, stuff is just kind of piled up there for the moment and looks unkempt. I believe you are 100% correct on the light, the coil light...you could barely tell it was on but this new light is nice and bright and already Sal seems happier to bask.
The light will be set into the opening of the top so there is no screen blocking the rays between the baby and the UV light and there will be screen top on either side of the light, placing it so there is room enough for the heat dome to set over the screened area. The light will be at least 6" away from the back wall of the cage and the basking area will be placed directly under the light. Both the light and heat will be on a timer. He will place the probe so that it measures the temp of the basking spot and another temperature gauge at the other end of the enclosure. All plugs will be in an electrical strip and attached below on the cart with all cords neatly zip tied.
We thought Sal would sleep in the 'cave' under the basking spot but he just sleeps in a corner instead of the cave. Is there something else they prefer for sleep like a hammock or something?
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D3 should be given 5 x per week ONCE per feeding and lightly coated on his insects- vitamins 2 x per week ONCE per feeding lightly coated as well -- the shedding can effect the appetite they tend to get crabby when shedding - distance for the UVB should be 12-15 inches directly about his basking decor piece -- you dont need to leave the probe on his basking spot you can stick it to the side of the tank and check it like every 10 days or so -- basking lights do get weak over time if they dont blow first -- photo period is 12 hrs on 12 hrs off -- and please dont feed him before lights out they need at least 2-3 hrs of basking time to start digestion - he probably wont use his cave for awhile -- mine were like 6 months before they used theirs -- he will eventually tho --
your supplement schedule will change at or around a year old --- along w/ the insect to salad ratio as well -- but for now hes growing and is going to need the calcium D3 for his bones -- that UVB is going to help him absorb and synthesize the calcium your feeding -- along w/ warding off other health issues which range from skin to internal organs / breathing etc ---
as far as weighing him etc I would leave him be for awhile -- hes probably sporting stress marks and the constant in and out of the tank and handling is going to stress him out- I would hold him in his tank pet him and hand feed him to hand tame him -- you can get some super worms or BSFL to hand feed him and use the BSFL to put on his salads to lure him to the bowl - I posted websites for you -- w/ his surface basking temps and UVB all being on par hes going to adjust to his tank quicker and keep eating -- the coil you had he would of eventually stopped eating and that would not of been good - make sure he is getting water - you can drop it on his nose or use a eye dropper and rinse the greens before serving - most dragons get their hydration from the greens they eat - and gut load your insects feed them at night stuff you feed him and dubia dew / crystals for hydration just dont feed carrots to both the insects and the dragon or you will have orange urate too much Vit A - you will figure out which insect he likes the best watch his behavior - the dubias are a better feeder as far as nutrition and they are easier to care for - but a variety is good - I fed / feed mine silk worms as well -
Thanks so much for all your help, I feel confident that we are on a good path for our baby. We are so grateful about you sharing the light issue. Maybe appetite will change and he will start eating some greens as so far he has not eaten any at all but with he showed better interest in the kale this morning and at least licked the moisture from it...that's a start anyway, hopefully soon he will be eating it and that is great...as with my iguanas, we always shared the kale so it never goes to waste.
Try the bsfl to the salad bowl - you will need a bowl that is ceramic glass- I can post a link for one off of Amazon - those are great staple feeders for babies
