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New Bearded Dragon

brindle01

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
Hi,
We have had our Bearded Dragon now for approx 3 months,he is around 6 months old. He has been in good health. Lately just yesterday he has not been his usual self,he is still eating well,no discharge from eyes or nose . Just not as active. I have checked his temperature on his basking spot and its 29.7 celsius with 40% humidity. Please could you advise if this is hot enough as that is what pet shop advised. He has a diet of locusts and Dubai Roaches with spring greens and veggies sprinkled with calcium powder. He is going to go into a new 6ft viv that we have bought him soon. Thank you.
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Hi,
We have had our Bearded Dragon now for approx 3 months,he is around 6 months old. He has been in good health. Lately just yesterday he has not been his usual self,he is still eating well,no discharge from eyes or nose . Just not as active. I have checked his temperature on his basking spot and its 29.7 celsius with 40% humidity. Please could you advise if this is hot enough as that is what pet shop advised. He has a diet of locusts and Dubai Roaches with spring greens and veggies sprinkled with calcium powder. He is going to go into a new 6ft viv that we have bought him soon. Thank you.
I am a new beardie mom so I definitely don’t know a lot. My little guy is 5 months old.. I keep the cool side at about 82-85… the basking surface at 104-105 and the ambient temp in the hot side about 95-97. Some people may say this is not hot enough but I’ve went higher and he constantly moves to the cool side.. my guy likes these temps. An ideal humidity level is 30-40… I have stressed over this!… until I was told on this forum that as long as they are above 20 and less than 60 it’s good. So I shoot for upper 20’s to upper 30’s. I think I would up your temps a bit on the hot side and see if that makes a difference. But if all your temps are correct and your lights are as they should be and he’s still not himself then the next thing I would do is get a parasite check done. Their behavior will change if parasites are there. From what I understood they are natural carriers of several parasites… while the numbers may be low if there is any type of stress..and wrong lights and temps can cause stress… then the parasites will grow in number and cause problems. I am taking my guy in for a check tomorrow as I’ve noticed he’s not eating as he should be and is not basking as he should be. So, just a suggestion. Hope all goes well..
 

brindle01

Bearded Dragon Egg
Messages
11
I am a new beardie mom so I definitely don’t know a lot. My little guy is 5 months old.. I keep the cool side at about 82-85… the basking surface at 104-105 and the ambient temp in the hot side about 95-97. Some people may say this is not hot enough but I’ve went higher and he constantly moves to the cool side.. my guy likes these temps. An ideal humidity level is 30-40… I have stressed over this!… until I was told on this forum that as long as they are above 20 and less than 60 it’s good. So I shoot for upper 20’s to upper 30’s. I think I would up your temps a bit on the hot side and see if that makes a difference. But if all your temps are correct and your lights are as they should be and he’s still not himself then the next thing I would do is get a parasite check done. Their behavior will change if parasites are there. From what I understood they are natural carriers of several parasites… while the numbers may be low if there is any type of stress..and wrong lights and temps can cause stress… then the parasites will grow in number and cause problems. I am taking my guy in for a check tomorrow as I’ve noticed he’s not eating as he should be and is not basking as he should be. So, just a suggestion. Hope all goes well..
Hi,
Thank you so much for replying. I have upped his basking spot temperature now,thank you. Will keep an eye on him. I have heard that they can go into brumation which slows them down in the winter months. Hope you're little guy is doing well. They are so cute are'nt they ,so glad i got mine. Thank you,
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Hi,
Thank you so much for replying. I have upped his basking spot temperature now,thank you. Will keep an eye on him. I have heard that they can go into brumation which slows them down in the winter months. Hope you're little guy is doing well. They are so cute are'nt they ,so glad i got mine. Thank you,
Yes they can go through brumation although most don’t in captivity. And if they do not before a year old. It’s not impossible for brumation at 6 months but it would be extremely rare. I had thought the same thing until an expert told me this about the age and that we should never ever assume brumation before ruling out parasites or other things. There is so so much to learn about these guys that it is almost overwhelming! Yes, I hope my guy turns out good and I hope the same for yours. They are beautiful, interesting, and complicated little guys and they bring so much joy to a home!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
I am a new beardie mom so I definitely don’t know a lot. My little guy is 5 months old.. I keep the cool side at about 82-85… the basking surface at 104-105 and the ambient temp in the hot side about 95-97. Some people may say this is not hot enough but I’ve went higher and he constantly moves to the cool side.. my guy likes these temps. An ideal humidity level is 30-40… I have stressed over this!… until I was told on this forum that as long as they are above 20 and less than 60 it’s good. So I shoot for upper 20’s to upper 30’s. I think I would up your temps a bit on the hot side and see if that makes a difference. But if all your temps are correct and your lights are as they should be and he’s still not himself then the next thing I would do is get a parasite check done. Their behavior will change if parasites are there. From what I understood they are natural carriers of several parasites… while the numbers may be low if there is any type of stress..and wrong lights and temps can cause stress… then the parasites will grow in number and cause problems. I am taking my guy in for a check tomorrow as I’ve noticed he’s not eating as he should be and is not basking as he should be. So, just a suggestion. Hope all goes well..
NO ENEMAS!! they often end in disaster -- take a fecal in please
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
NO ENEMAS!! they often end in disaster -- take a fecal in please
Do they do that to these guys?? There is no way I’d let them! So, he has poked good but not today.. it seems to be every 2 days.. but they look normal. Not runny or discoloration..I don’t see any undigested food… so, if he doesn’t poop before the vet should I wait until he does? I didn’t save the last one.. I don’t know why.. I guess I figured he’d go again before I take him. So taking in a sample is the only way they test for parasites?? He is eating… not as much as everyone says he should be tho.. won’t touch greens and I’ve bought all kind and bee pollen. He’s lazy in the morning but once I put him under his lights he stays there until he’s ready to move… he’s not active.. I mean he doesn’t run all over but I’m not sure what his behavior should really be…but I did not know they did that!!
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
Do they do that to these guys?? There is no way I’d let them! So, he has poked good but not today.. it seems to be every 2 days.. but they look normal. Not runny or discoloration..I don’t see any undigested food… so, if he doesn’t poop before the vet should I wait until he does? I didn’t save the last one.. I don’t know why.. I guess I figured he’d go again before I take him. So taking in a sample is the only way they test for parasites?? He is eating… not as much as everyone says he should be tho.. won’t touch greens and I’ve bought all kind and bee pollen. He’s lazy in the morning but once I put him under his lights he stays there until he’s ready to move… he’s not active.. I mean he doesn’t run all over but I’m not sure what his behavior should really be…but I did not know they did that!!
A vet trip this early will stress him out more- to be honest I would wait on the vet+ unless he's really acting sick no eating at all lethargic etc I would hold off and he's so young the risk of a enema is greater- he is going to need time to acclimate to his tank and surroundings- order some bsfl www.symtonbsf.com order the size no bigger than the space between his eyes length wise do not dust them they are a great staple feeder add to the tops of his salads in front of him the movement will get his attention- feed as many as you want hand feed some to him- that will start the hand taming- then about a hr later feed the main staple feeder- I used dubias and bsfl 1-3 super worms get small and feed those every 2-3 days on top of his salads w/ the bsfl-- you want him starting on salads now rinse the greens he will get his moisture thru them mainly
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
And yes fecal is the only way they test for parasites- I would hold off for now
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Do they do that to these guys?? There is no way I’d let them! So, he has poked good but not today.. it seems to be every 2 days.. but they look normal. Not runny or discoloration..I don’t see any undigested food… so, if he doesn’t poop before the vet should I wait until he does? I didn’t save the last one.. I don’t know why.. I guess I figured he’d go again before I take him. So taking in a sample is the only way they test for parasites?? He is eating… not as much as everyone says he should be tho.. won’t touch greens and I’ve bought all kind and bee pollen. He’s lazy in the morning but once I put him under his lights he stays there until he’s ready to move… he’s not active.. I mean he doesn’t run all over but I’m not sure what his behavior should really be…but I did not know they did that!!
I mean he has pooed good today.. not poked!.. typo.. sorry!
A vet trip this early will stress him out more- to be honest I would wait on the vet+ unless he's really acting sick no eating at all lethargic etc I would hold off and he's so young the risk of a enema is greater- he is going to need time to acclimate to his tank and surroundings- order some bsfl www.symtonbsf.com order the size no bigger than the space between his eyes length wise do not dust them they are a great staple feeder add to the tops of his salads in front of him the movement will get his attention- feed as many as you want hand feed some to him- that will start the hand taming- then about a hr later feed the main staple feeder- I used dubias and bsfl 1-3 super worms get small and feed those every 2-3 days on top of his salads w/ the bsfl-- you want him starting on salads now rinse the greens he will get his moisture thru them mainly
Sadie… I am do damn confused I really feel like tears!!! I do agree with a vet visit stressing him out … that was my thought also… but then I’m told that it is imperative he goes now..that he should be much more active and eating much much more… I ordered the BSFL from the place you suggested and got them in a couple of days ago.., he will not touch them!.. I ordered hornworms.. he will not touch them!.. I’ve bought every type of greens that the store had ..and squash.. I’ve washed it all and placed it between wet paper towels in the fridge…I’m offering it daily and leaving it the most of the day.. he won’t touch it!.. he’s eating about 10-15 medium size roaches in the morning about 2 hours after lights on and again about 2 in the afternoon he’s eating about 6-8 roaches and every other day 2-4 superworms… also I’m feeding the roaches and worms salad,squash, and some fruit. He is pooping about every 2 days and it looks normal to me.. not runny or any colors. I will wait on the vet. Now.. the lights… maybe I gave it all wrong and that’s the problem?… I’m told now that my uvb should not be inside.. it’s the Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 in the reflective fixture… my enclosure is 6x2x3…it’s mounted inside right now but can change that if need be… my basking area is 12-13 inches away. My heat lights are on a thermostat. I’ve tried the dimmer but could mit get temps right.. was checking every 15 minutes and adjusting.. left for an hour one day and came home to 114.. that won’t work. I have 2 regular bulbs in fixtures that stay on as the thermostat does turn it on and off. He’s 5 months old so I’m keeping my hot side ambient temp at no more than 95…I made 2 basking surfaces… one flagstone and one a piece of driftwood.. one surface at 106 and one at 103… so now I’m hearing that my ambient is too high.. should be 90…and my surfaces should be 100-110.. but before I’m told that 100 was way too high!…. He is alert… he basks if I put him there… then he’s off to the cool side.. I lowered the temps but he did the same… im hearing he should be much more active but active how? 2 days ago he was moving around like walking at the glass.. not glass surfing just up and down.. but yesterday and today not so much that. Please!! What am I doing wrong here?
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
I mean he has pooed good today.. not poked!.. typo.. sorry!

Sadie… I am do damn confused I really feel like tears!!! I do agree with a vet visit stressing him out … that was my thought also… but then I’m told that it is imperative he goes now..that he should be much more active and eating much much more… I ordered the BSFL from the place you suggested and got them in a couple of days ago.., he will not touch them!.. I ordered hornworms.. he will not touch them!.. I’ve bought every type of greens that the store had ..and squash.. I’ve washed it all and placed it between wet paper towels in the fridge…I’m offering it daily and leaving it the most of the day.. he won’t touch it!.. he’s eating about 10-15 medium size roaches in the morning about 2 hours after lights on and again about 2 in the afternoon he’s eating about 6-8 roaches and every other day 2-4 superworms… also I’m feeding the roaches and worms salad,squash, and some fruit. He is pooping about every 2 days and it looks normal to me.. not runny or any colors. I will wait on the vet. Now.. the lights… maybe I gave it all wrong and that’s the problem?… I’m told now that my uvb should not be inside.. it’s the Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 in the reflective fixture… my enclosure is 6x2x3…it’s mounted inside right now but can change that if need be… my basking area is 12-13 inches away. My heat lights are on a thermostat. I’ve tried the dimmer but could mit get temps right.. was checking every 15 minutes and adjusting.. left for an hour one day and came home to 114.. that won’t work. I have 2 regular bulbs in fixtures that stay on as the thermostat does turn it on and off. He’s 5 months old so I’m keeping my hot side ambient temp at no more than 95…I made 2 basking surfaces… one flagstone and one a piece of driftwood.. one surface at 106 and one at 103… so now I’m hearing that my ambient is too high.. should be 90…and my surfaces should be 100-110.. but before I’m told that 100 was way too high!…. He is alert… he basks if I put him there… then he’s off to the cool side.. I lowered the temps but he did the same… im hearing he should be much more active but active how? 2 days ago he was moving around like walking at the glass.. not glass surfing just up and down.. but yesterday and today not so much that. Please!! What am I doing wrong here?
Mistake.. my enclosure is 6x2x2
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
Mistake.. my enclosure is 6x2x2
Who is telling you this? They are stressing you out- it is not imperative that he goes now to the vet-+ your dragon is eating pooping basking and running around his tank he's doing great--- leave the uvb where it is-- it's when they quit eating quit basking not active and not pooping is when you need to worry- your basking temps are good - you need to be focused on the surface temps where he basks- ambient temps in the 90's and cool side 80's -- keep offering his salads w/ the bsfl may start eating them
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Who is telling you this? They are stressing you out- it is not imperative that he goes now to the vet-+ your dragon is eating pooping basking and running around his tank he's doing great--- leave the uvb where it is-- it's when they quit eating quit basking not active and not pooping is when you need to worry- your basking temps are good - you need to be focused on the surface temps where he basks- ambient temps in the 90's and cool side 80's -- keep offering his salads w/ the bsfl may start eating them
Thank you.. I have come to the conclusion to just stop talking to anyone about my guy!.. I just don’t wanna do anything to hurt him. So you think my uvb is ok inside with the basking distance at 12 or so inches ? I have to use the thermostat cause I can’t do it with a dimmer…
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
He's had old now? Around 6 months you can lower your basking temps to 95-100-- he's considered a juvie and around that age they quit liking the really hot temps--
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
Thank you.. I have come to the conclusion to just stop talking to anyone about my guy!.. I just don’t wanna do anything to hurt him. So you think my uvb is ok inside with the basking distance at 12 or so inches ? I have to use the thermostat cause I can’t do it with a dimmer…
Uvb needs to stay in the tank
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
I take my dragons into the vet once a yr -- fecals are taken in for testing 2 times a year- unless your dragon is really sick or have some other issue like skin mouth etc the fecal should be the only thing going in other than a yearly- I recommend a fecal 2 times a year- blaze just had his fecal done last month it was clean - hiccup is next
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
He's had old now? Around 6 months you can lower your basking temps to 95-100-- he's considered a juvie and around that age they quit liking the really hot temps--
He will be 5 months on the 16th. I’m kinda thinking that maybe I should lower them. Yesterday he was gaping while basking. I know that what they do but maybe that is why he always head back to the cool side up at the top of his rock wall. Maybe try that now ? And did you think the uvb is ok inside the enclosure? And basking bring 12-13 inches away? Or change that?
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,690
He will be 5 months on the 16th. I’m kinda thinking that maybe I should lower them. Yesterday he was gaping while basking. I know that what they do but maybe that is why he always head back to the cool side up at the top of his rock wall. Maybe try that now ? And did you think the uvb is ok inside the enclosure? And basking bring 12-13 inches away? Or change that?
Leave uvb as is - gaping is good- how long is he basking for? They will move if they need to
 

Newbeardiemom

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
148
Leave uvb as is - gaping is good- how long is he basking for? They will move if they need to
Ok I’ll leave it inside. After I turn on all lights and it warms a bit I get him outta his little bed and sit him in his basking area. That’s about 6:30. He basks until I give him salad at 9:30.. then I add bugs to his uneaten salad. Once he eats that’s when he’ll bask a little longer then off to cool side up high. The last couple of days he has stayed there until it’s time to eat again at about 2:30.. I’ll put him on his basking and he’ll stay there a little longer the back to cool and high. Before yesterday he had began to appear to be checking things out…do I want it hot enough for him to gape?
 

Rusty

Juvenile Dragon
Messages
134
Hi,
Thank you so much for replying. I have upped his basking spot temperature now,thank you. Will keep an eye on him. I have heard that they can go into brumation which slows them down in the winter months. Hope you're little guy is doing well. They are so cute are'nt they ,so glad i got mine. Thank you,
They should NOT be brumating under the age of at least 1.
His lights and temps are most important, and just keep offering him his food they go through some diet changes, as they grow, and shedding will change his appetite also, keep at it he will be great
 
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