New Bearded Dragon Adoption Advice

[PrinceH4H4T4]

I adopted a ~2 year old male bearded dragon about a week ago. He hasn’t eaten much coming to me, he has only pooped once, and hadn’t been super active.

I just want to make sure it’s safe to attribute this to relocation stress and not make care or health (vet appointment for the end of the month).

Current enclosure:
75gallons (4x2x2 pvc ordered but a few weeks out)
Arcadia 100w halogen & 80w DHP for heat
Arcadia jungle dawn for white light
Arcadia T5HO 14% above screen top (~8” from basking zone)
I have a solar meter 6.5 coming so I can verify the proper UVI and gradient.

Basking log surface temp: ~105
Warm side ambient: ~90
Cool side ambient: ~80
Night time ambient: ~66-70
Humidity: ~40%

The first few days I had him he was definitely stressed out. He would darken up if I spent to much time messing with him (never got defensive, just darkened in color). Today was the first day I noticed he was being more active, almost wanting to come out of the enclosure. His beard bright orange and tongue flicking at everything.

But I’m still having trouble with food. The first day I had him he ate a 3-4 adult dubia roaches and took 2 pieces of dandelion greens from my hand. That was the most luck I’ve had with him. Since then it’s been a dubia here or there, maybe a super worm, and has eaten a grand total of 1 bsf larvae. On top of that yesterday was the only other day I was able to trick him into eat and leaf or two of greens. He just doesn’t seem interested. Is this still just the stress? Should I just stay the course and hope he comes around? How long can he maintain such little food intake?

As far as poop, today was the first one he had for me. I’m hoping it was a stress poop because it was very liquidy. He was basking, then backed his but off the log and pushed out a liquid poop and some white strings (urates?) and a fair bit of just fluid. Then proceeded to jump off the other side of the basking log and glass surf for half an hour. And then jump back on the log and do a quick couple head bobs.

The salad I’ve been trying to feed has been a wide mix of greens from dandelion greens to kale to Bok choy and spring mix. With some toppers like egg plant or bell pepper.

Insects are dubia roaches (staple), bsf larvae I’ve been using to try and entice to the salad (no luck), and super worms. I think I’m going to buy some hornworm, not as a staple but to make sure he’s hydrated and maybe entice to the salad.

I was told (not sure how accurate) that this guy was eating crickets x2 a week and kale salads daily.

Also never been to an exotic vet before, what all will they want to do? X-rays to check for MBD, fecal for parasites, and blood work? I ask because I work at a small animal vet clinic and I could take x-rays for free and send out fecals at cost. (I’ll still do this vet visit, just curious for the future to save some money).

I’ll post some pictures so you can check him out.

All advice is welcome
All questions welcome

Thanks in advance

 

[Sadie]

I adopted a ~2 year old male bearded dragon about a week ago. He hasn’t eaten much coming to me, he has only pooped once, and hadn’t been super active.

I just want to make sure it’s safe to attribute this to relocation stress and not make care or health (vet appointment for the end of the month).

Current enclosure:
75gallons (4x2x2 pvc ordered but a few weeks out)
Arcadia 100w halogen & 80w DHP for heat
Arcadia jungle dawn for white light
Arcadia T5HO 14% above screen top (~8” from basking zone)
I have a solar meter 6.5 coming so I can verify the proper UVI and gradient.

Basking log surface temp: ~105
Warm side ambient: ~90
Cool side ambient: ~80
Night time ambient: ~66-70
Humidity: ~40%

The first few days I had him he was definitely stressed out. He would darken up if I spent to much time messing with him (never got defensive, just darkened in color). Today was the first day I noticed he was being more active, almost wanting to come out of the enclosure. His beard bright orange and tongue flicking at everything.

But I’m still having trouble with food. The first day I had him he ate a 3-4 adult dubia roaches and took 2 pieces of dandelion greens from my hand. That was the most luck I’ve had with him. Since then it’s been a dubia here or there, maybe a super worm, and has eaten a grand total of 1 bsf larvae. On top of that yesterday was the only other day I was able to trick him into eat and leaf or two of greens. He just doesn’t seem interested. Is this still just the stress? Should I just stay the course and hope he comes around? How long can he maintain such little food intake?

As far as poop, today was the first one he had for me. I’m hoping it was a stress poop because it was very liquidy. He was basking, then backed his but off the log and pushed out a liquid poop and some white strings (urates?) and a fair bit of just fluid. Then proceeded to jump off the other side of the basking log and glass surf for half an hour. And then jump back on the log and do a quick couple head bobs.

The salad I’ve been trying to feed has been a wide mix of greens from dandelion greens to kale to Bok choy and spring mix. With some toppers like egg plant or bell pepper.

Insects are dubia roaches (staple), bsf larvae I’ve been using to try and entice to the salad (no luck), and super worms. I think I’m going to buy some hornworm, not as a staple but to make sure he’s hydrated and maybe entice to the salad.

I was told (not sure how accurate) that this guy was eating crickets x2 a week and kale salads daily.

Also never been to an exotic vet before, what all will they want to do? X-rays to check for MBD, fecal for parasites, and blood work? I ask because I work at a small animal vet clinic and I could take x-rays for free and send out fecals at cost. (I’ll still do this vet visit, just curious for the future to save some money).

I’ll post some pictures so you can check him out.

All advice is welcome
All questions welcome

Thanks in advance

Is the jungle dawn emitting uva? He needs that - your surface basking temps are you taking those w/ a digital probe thermometer- everything sounds good - yes relocation stress can and will effect the poops and eating- get his fecal and send in for parasites just to rule those out- and if you want get x-rays to check for calcium - they usually do that at an exam or at least my reptile vet did-- also blood work as well but that is up to you-

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Is the jungle dawn emitting uva? He needs that - your surface basking temps are you taking those w/ a digital probe thermometer- everything sounds good - yes relocation stress can and will effect the poops and eating- get his fecal and send in for parasites just to rule those out- and if you want get x-rays to check for calcium - they usually do that at an exam or at least my reptile vet did-- also blood work as well but that is up to you-

I don’t think the jungle dawn gives off much if any uva. I was under the impression that the Arcadia T5HO 14% would give off both UVA and UVB.

Surface temperature was taken with a temp gun. Other temperatures are taken and tracked by acurite temp/humidity sensors.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Sadie]

I don’t think the jungle dawn gives off much if any uva. I was under the impression that the Arcadia T5HO 14% would give off both UVA and UVB.

Surface temperature was taken with a temp gun. Other temperatures are taken and tracked by acurite temp/humidity sensors.

Thanks for the info!

Then you need a solid clear bright white basking bulb-- they give off UVA - the uvb only gives off uvb rays- the 14% bulb should have a distance of 17-18 inches directly above the basking decor if it's inside the tank--

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Then you need a solid clear bright white basking bulb-- they give off UVA - the uvb only gives off uvb rays- the 14% bulb should have a distance of 17-18 inches directly above the basking decor if it's inside the tank--

Arcadias website says that the 14% UVB bulb gives off UVA. Specifically the stats are 14% UVB and 30% UVA. I have the bulb closer than 17-18” because there is a screen top between the bulb and the lizard.

 

[Sadie]

Arcadias website says that the 14% UVB bulb gives off UVA. Specifically the stats are 14% UVB and 30% UVA. I have the bulb closer than 17-18” because there is a screen top between the bulb and the lizard.

Ok your good I just saw the Arcadia Halogen 100 watt -- that is a good basking bulb - sorry - your screen on the tank is a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type?

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Ok your good I just saw the Arcadia Halogen 100 watt -- that is a good basking bulb - sorry - your screen on the tank is a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type?

I believe you’d consider that wide whole.

 

[Sadie]

I believe you’d consider that wide whole.

Yes that is a wide hole and distance should be 10-11 inches -- does she bask directly under it for a period of time - 14% bulbs are very strong- you could go down to the 12% next bulb change and then distance would be 8-10 -

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Yes that is a wide hole and distance should be 10-11 inches -- does she bask directly under it for a period of time - 14% bulbs are very strong- you could go down to the 12% next bulb change and then distance would be 8-10 -

Usually will bask directly under it. I do have the 12% bulb, so I could switch it if need be. When I get the UVI meter I will check out the gradient and see if I need to knock it down a notch

 

[Sadie]

Usually will bask directly under it. I do have the 12% bulb, so I could switch it if need be. When I get the UVI meter I will check out the gradient and see if I need to knock it down a notch

Sounds good ---

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Sounds good ---

Anything I can do about they eating? Or just keep trying until he gets hungry?

 

[Sadie]

Anything I can do about they eating? Or just keep trying until he gets hungry?

Its the relocation stress -- you can take a fecal in just to get it ruled out--- but for the most part it is more than likely the relocation stress new tank and surroundings and the weather - they are going into brumation time so that too could be effecting him -- get a weight on him keep track of it weigh in grams please - make sure he is staying hydrated - they wont eat being dehydrated as well -- but keep offering him the food --- the head bobs are a sign of dominance - part of the mating ritual - can he see his reflection in the glass? I would do the fecal for sure -- how bad was the smell ? If its really bad that you can smell it out of the room -- that could be a good sign of parasites ---

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Its the relocation stress -- you can take a fecal in just to get it ruled out--- but for the most part it is more than likely the relocation stress new tank and surroundings and the weather - they are going into brumation time so that too could be effecting him -- get a weight on him keep track of it weigh in grams please - make sure he is staying hydrated - they wont eat being dehydrated as well -- but keep offering him the food --- the head bobs are a sign of dominance - part of the mating ritual - can he see his reflection in the glass? I would do the fecal for sure -- how bad was the smell ? If its really bad that you can smell it out of the room -- that could be a good sign of parasites ---

I’ve got 3 sides of the cage covered to help reduce reflection and insulate the glass cage. So I don’t think he can really see himself. The smell was stinky but no worse than I expected, the smell wasn’t bad enough to clean the cage.

 

[Sadie]

I’ve got 3 sides of the cage covered to help reduce reflection and insulate the glass cage. So I don’t think he can really see himself. The smell was stinky but no worse than I expected, the smell wasn’t bad enough to clean the cage.

Ok so just the runniness can be from relocation stress -- see if it clears up w/ more formation in the few weeks - diet also plays a role in that as well -- too many vegies/ fruits w/ high water content can also be attributed to the runiness as well

 

[Julee1971]

I adopted a ~2 year old male bearded dragon about a week ago. He hasn’t eaten much coming to me, he has only pooped once, and hadn’t been super active.

I just want to make sure it’s safe to attribute this to relocation stress and not make care or health (vet appointment for the end of the month).

Current enclosure:
75gallons (4x2x2 pvc ordered but a few weeks out)
Arcadia 100w halogen & 80w DHP for heat
Arcadia jungle dawn for white light
Arcadia T5HO 14% above screen top (~8” from basking zone)
I have a solar meter 6.5 coming so I can verify the proper UVI and gradient.

Basking log surface temp: ~105
Warm side ambient: ~90
Cool side ambient: ~80
Night time ambient: ~66-70
Humidity: ~40%

The first few days I had him he was definitely stressed out. He would darken up if I spent to much time messing with him (never got defensive, just darkened in color). Today was the first day I noticed he was being more active, almost wanting to come out of the enclosure. His beard bright orange and tongue flicking at everything.

But I’m still having trouble with food. The first day I had him he ate a 3-4 adult dubia roaches and took 2 pieces of dandelion greens from my hand. That was the most luck I’ve had with him. Since then it’s been a dubia here or there, maybe a super worm, and has eaten a grand total of 1 bsf larvae. On top of that yesterday was the only other day I was able to trick him into eat and leaf or two of greens. He just doesn’t seem interested. Is this still just the stress? Should I just stay the course and hope he comes around? How long can he maintain such little food intake?

As far as poop, today was the first one he had for me. I’m hoping it was a stress poop because it was very liquidy. He was basking, then backed his but off the log and pushed out a liquid poop and some white strings (urates?) and a fair bit of just fluid. Then proceeded to jump off the other side of the basking log and glass surf for half an hour. And then jump back on the log and do a quick couple head bobs.

The salad I’ve been trying to feed has been a wide mix of greens from dandelion greens to kale to Bok choy and spring mix. With some toppers like egg plant or bell pepper.

Insects are dubia roaches (staple), bsf larvae I’ve been using to try and entice to the salad (no luck), and super worms. I think I’m going to buy some hornworm, not as a staple but to make sure he’s hydrated and maybe entice to the salad.

I was told (not sure how accurate) that this guy was eating crickets x2 a week and kale salads daily.

Also never been to an exotic vet before, what all will they want to do? X-rays to check for MBD, fecal for parasites, and blood work? I ask because I work at a small animal vet clinic and I could take x-rays for free and send out fecals at cost. (I’ll still do this vet visit, just curious for the future to save some money).

I’ll post some pictures so you can check him out.

All advice is welcome
All questions welcome

Thanks in advance

Liquidy poop is a sign of either Coccidia due to a dirty cage or the temps are not hot Enuff. Low energy is due to the UVB that needs replacing or improper UVB being used. For heat use a clear bulb the zoomed basking bulb is the best and for UVB use the Reptisun 10.0 T5; it’s a long tubular bulb. Never ever use Colored or Coiled bulbs it’s very bad for their eyes. Also, any & all UVBs need replacing religiously every 6 months. The leng of the UVB u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and should be placed beginning at the HOT side. Also he needs a hideaway to rest and getaway when needed tyoically u get a cave basking platform and place a hammock behind the basking spot as well for lounging at a leaser temp; they love it. I will attached photos of the lights/cages. Rite now google Coccidia and start exercising all the measures of cleaning to rid of this parasite; like burning in hot water all items in the cage and keeping the cage super duper clean in case he has it. I wud take a fresh stool sample to the vet when u go so they can test it. Humidity should be between 30-40 never higher than 40. And the temp for an adult Beardie around 95-98; use a digital thermometer for accuracy and a infrared gun. For feeders do Dubai roaches & crickets those are the best. You can do some superworms; but in moderation cuz they are high in fat and hornworms as treats they are high in fat too. For the greens; mustard greens, collard greens, snap peas, yellow squash, butternut squash and endives. Those are the best everyday greens mix 2-3 togheter or hand feed new ones to try. As treats blueberries, mangoes and papaya once per week. They love blueberries. Dust the proteins once a week with calcium and on a noncalcium day dust once a week with Herptivite Vitamin.
Baths should be given 2 times per week; them soak for 15 min minimum in lukewarm water and more baths when shedding to help relive the itching and help the skin fall off quicker and easier, buy Reptisafe drops to put in the water to remove the chlorine & mist then with dechlorinated water 2-3 times a day. Good luck all this should bring him back to life.

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

Liquidy poop is a sign of either Coccidia due to a dirty cage or the temps are not hot Enuff. Low energy is due to the UVB that needs replacing or improper UVB being used. For heat use a clear bulb the zoomed basking bulb is the best and for UVB use the Reptisun 10.0 T5; it’s a long tubular bulb. Never ever use Colored or Coiled bulbs it’s very bad for their eyes. Also, any & all UVBs need replacing religiously every 6 months. The leng of the UVB u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and should be placed beginning at the HOT side. Also he needs a hideaway to rest and getaway when needed tyoically u get a cave basking platform and place a hammock behind the basking spot as well for lounging at a leaser temp; they love it. I will attached photos of the lights/cages. Rite now google Coccidia and start exercising all the measures of cleaning to rid of this parasite; like burning in hot water all items in the cage and keeping the cage super duper clean in case he has it. I wud take a fresh stool sample to the vet when u go so they can test it. Humidity should be between 30-40 never higher than 40. And the temp for an adult Beardie around 95-98; use a digital thermometer for accuracy and a infrared gun. For feeders do Dubai roaches & crickets those are the best. You can do some superworms; but in moderation cuz they are high in fat and hornworms as treats they are high in fat too. For the greens; mustard greens, collard greens, snap peas, yellow squash, butternut squash and endives. Those are the best everyday greens mix 2-3 togheter or hand feed new ones to try. As treats blueberries, mangoes and papaya once per week. They love blueberries. Dust the proteins once a week with calcium and on a noncalcium day dust once a week with Herptivite Vitamin.
Baths should be given 2 times per week; them soak for 15 min minimum in lukewarm water and more baths when shedding to help relive the itching and help the skin fall off quicker and easier, buy Reptisafe drops to put in the water to remove the chlorine & mist then with dechlorinated water 2-3 times a day. Good luck all this should bring him back to life.

Thanks for the info. I’ve read that forcing baths on bearded dragons can potentially have bad effects. Because of warm waters laxative effect, it can cause them to poop before they are completely done digesting their food. And that can cause dehydration. Maybe while they are shedding it can assist, but I feel like increasing ambient humidity slightly could also do the trick.

But that’s just a feeling and what I’ve read. Reptifiles is my source for the bath Info.

 

[Julee1971]

Thanks for the info. I’ve read that forcing baths on bearded dragons can potentially have bad effects. Because of warm waters laxative effect, it can cause them to poop before they are completely done digesting their food. And that can cause dehydration. Maybe while they are shedding it can assist, but I feel like increasing ambient humidity slightly could also do the trick.

But that’s just a feeling and what I’ve read. Reptifiles is my source for the bath Info.

You are very welcome. Baths is how they absorb water, especially if they aren’t drinking from their dish, which most Beardies don’t. U def don’t force it, just Fill up the tub or sink with enuff water so that it’s way below their neck and make sure it’s a sliver warm and play meditation Music and u can rub them dnwwards with a soft toothbrush for a few min of their bath time. But they def need to soak & they gotta be misted a few times a day. Also be careful with humidity they can get an upper respiratory infection have the vet check for that too, that is deadly and so is Coccidia they both need antibiotics. It happens if you leave food or water overnight in the cage and if u fill up the tub or sink with too much water and he inhaled it. Aside from that; let’s get the UVB and heat handled and change his greens to the list I gave you

 

[PrinceH4H4T4]

You are very welcome. Baths is how they absorb water, especially if they aren’t drinking from their dish, which most Beardies don’t. U def don’t force it, just Fill up the tub or sink with enuff water so that it’s way below their neck and make sure it’s a sliver warm and play meditation Music and u can rub them dnwwards with a soft toothbrush for a few min of their bath time. But they def need to soak & they gotta be misted a few times a day. Also be careful with humidity they can get an upper respiratory infection have the vet check for that too, that is deadly and so is Coccidia they both need antibiotics. It happens if you leave food or water overnight in the cage and if u fill up the tub or sink with too much water and he inhaled it. Aside from that; let’s get the UVB and heat handled and change his greens to the list I gave you

They also absorb water from the insects and greens they eat as well as from the water in the air they breathe.

High humidity for extended periods of time could result in a UR infection. But short spurts are natural, like rain in the Outback.

He had a solid poop yesterday, but I’ll be sending a fecal just to make sure.

Humidity wise my 40% is fine? In their native habits the driest month is December with average hungry if ~20% and highest is June with ~50%. So staying between there should be normal.

All of the greens I have feed, while not on your list are on most other lists. So they should be perfectly healthy, should they not? This most recent batch was kale and bok choy, both suitable and healthy greens for bearded dragons.

Is there something wrong with my heat and UVB…?

 

[Sadie]

They also absorb water from the insects and greens they eat as well as from the water in the air they breathe.

High humidity for extended periods of time could result in a UR infection. But short spurts are natural, like rain in the Outback.

He had a solid poop yesterday, but I’ll be sending a fecal just to make sure.

Humidity wise my 40% is fine? In their native habits the driest month is December with average hungry if ~20% and highest is June with ~50%. So staying between there should be normal.

All of the greens I have feed, while not on your list are on most other lists. So they should be perfectly healthy, should they not? This most recent batch was kale and bok choy, both suitable and healthy greens for bearded dragons.

Is there something wrong with my heat and UVB…?

Optimal humidity is 40-50% --- nothing under 20 and over 70% -- you want a digital probe hygrometer -- place the probe on the back center wall -- it will read the whole tank --- dragons will drink from the bath if they are thirsty- most do not drink from bowls-- you can drop water on his nose to see if he will lick - keep dropping till he stops-- greens can be rinsed before serving they will also give moisture along w/ gut loading the insects before being fed

 

[Julee1971]

They also absorb water from the insects and greens they eat as well as from the water in the air they breathe.

High humidity for extended periods of time could result in a UR infection. But short spurts are natural, like rain in the Outback.

He had a solid poop yesterday, but I’ll be sending a fecal just to make sure.

Humidity wise my 40% is fine? In their native habits the driest month is December with average hungry if ~20% and highest is June with ~50%. So staying between there should be normal.

All of the greens I have feed, while not on your list are on most other lists. So they should be perfectly healthy, should they not? This most recent batch was kale and bok choy, both suitable and healthy greens for bearded dragons.

Is there something wrong with my heat and UVB…?

The best and most recommended UVB light is the Reptisun 10.0 T5; that’s the best. Low energy and not moving much, or barely eating is UVB related. The UVB needs replacing every “6”mnths. U can kill a dragon & destroy his bones (MBD) within a month of not having the UVB emitting UVB. It’s best to use the best one out there to ensure optimal health. Also are u doing the calcium powder and herptivite vitamin powder? The greens I listed are the best ones. Yellow squash has lots of calcium and mustard and collard are the best. Kale should not be fed everyday due to the Vitamin A in it. Google it; the Humidity should NEVER go above 40 ask your Vet or google it as well. As far as water he needs to be sprayed and needs baths trust me on that. Read the articles below.