Lighting

[Lil_Loki_Lover29]

so there is so much condescending information on the internet. Some say color lights are ok. Some say absolutely not. I need to know what lighting I should have. So Loki is thriving and being the best he can be. Also how do you control humidity? And what’s the proper schedule for calcium supplements with d3 as well as calcium supplements without d3. From what I understand to much d3 can have the reverse effect on your dragons health. Also live feeder insects. So roaches are better than crickets? And mealworms hard outer shells can cause impaction? Freeze dried insects are a no go as well? Also. I read juvenile beardies need live feeders 2 or 3 times a day. But obviously not allowing them to engorge themselves. But once they hit that 6 to 12 month mark. Once a day 6 days. A week then 12 to 18 months and older live feeders 3x times a week. Allowing them to eat until they lose interest for 15 minutes. And make sure salads are available daily. Now is this correct incorrect or what? Help me please cuz the internet has me running in circles and I’m so dizzy I’m about to hit a wall lol just to clear up my photos. The one where the tank looks empty. I was cleaning all the things that go inside. He was only in that setup for a very short amount of time. The side by side was his one month progress from the day I brought him home from petco. The other ones are just to show his enclosure which I made everything inside myself. Found the wood. Cut it. Treated it. Stained it. Set it out to air out in the sun for over a week. Put the vines on it. Found the hide and hollowed it out myself painted it with acrylic. Let it dry for a couple days. Then went over it with a mixture of non toxic wood glue diluted in water. Made the swing. Made the hammock. Found and polished the rocks (did that prior to ever having him though) anyways ya. Painted the backdrop my self. And my boyfriend even made the top.

 

[Skybug]

No colored bulbs, absolutely NO “coil/compact” uvb bulbs heres ur two options for lighting, they both are good and the quality you want, if u have further questions please do ask, most of ur post is accurate, roaches over crickets, no dead bugs, i personally have never fed my girl mealworms (they’re basically a “nothing bug”) just filler, my girl wont eat salad so I heavily gut load my bugs, so no they dont need to be kept on an Exact 30%this 20%that, but it is recommended you start salads as early as possible, i still give my girl d3 even though shes a year and 7 months, you will find some do things differently, doesn’t mean its wrong, but they’re some things that are huge no nos, i.e. colorful bulbs, coil uvbs, dusty substrates, mealworms, among others.
ur top priority is the lighting always and forever, he can be getting the best care possible, but if his lights are bad, the rest of the care doesn’t matter.

 

[Sadie]

so there is so much condescending information on the internet. Some say color lights are ok. Some say absolutely not. I need to know what lighting I should have. So Loki is thriving and being the best he can be. Also how do you control humidity? And what’s the proper schedule for calcium supplements with d3 as well as calcium supplements without d3. From what I understand to much d3 can have the reverse effect on your dragons health. Also live feeder insects. So roaches are better than crickets? And mealworms hard outer shells can cause impaction? Freeze dried insects are a no go as well? Also. I read juvenile beardies need live feeders 2 or 3 times a day. But obviously not allowing them to engorge themselves. But once they hit that 6 to 12 month mark. Once a day 6 days. A week then 12 to 18 months and older live feeders 3x times a week. Allowing them to eat until they lose interest for 15 minutes. And make sure salads are available daily. Now is this correct incorrect or what? Help me please cuz the internet has me running in circles and I’m so dizzy I’m about to hit a wall lol just to clear up my photos. The one where the tank looks empty. I was cleaning all the things that go inside. He was only in that setup for a very short amount of time. The side by side was his one month progress from the day I brought him home from petco. The other ones are just to show his enclosure which I made everything inside myself. Found the wood. Cut it. Treated it. Stained it. Set it out to air out in the sun for over a week. Put the vines on it. Found the hide and hollowed it out myself painted it with acrylic. Let it dry for a couple days. Then went over it with a mixture of non toxic wood glue diluted in water. Made the swing. Made the hammock. Found and polished the rocks (did that prior to ever having him though) anyways ya. Painted the backdrop my self. And my boyfriend even made the top.

Skybug has posted good UVB fixtures you want the 12% Arcadia bulb for the Pro T 5 ---- for the Zoo Med please get the Reptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb --- the 5.0 bulb can be used as back up if needed but the distance and placement is different from the 10.0 ---- please get rid of the heat rock in the tank - they can cause burns dragons heat from their backs not stomachs ---
Supplements should be 5 x per week calcium D3 for dragons up to a year -- at the age of 1 year they should go on alternating D3 and w/ out D3 w NO phosphorus when using a T 5 bulb --- D3 2 times per week then w/ out D3 3 times per week - vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week up to a year or longer - it depends if the dragon is eating his salads and a good variety of them they will get the nutrients out of those so its not going to be pressing for vitamins as long as hes eating them --- if not I would continue on w/ the vitamins 2 x per week -- dust lightly and dust the insects --- that way you know hes getting what he needs and yes there is a thing of over dusting w/ calcium - watch the poops if you start seeing orange around the outside of the white urate then hes getting too much calcium -
NO colored bulbs they are harmful to the eyes and can cause long term eye damage -dragons have a 3rd eye on top of their heads that is very sensitive to light - they use that eye for predators -- if you ever need heat in the tank for nite please get a ceramic heat emitter CHE they produce NO light -- temps at nite should be 65-75 cool and dark
I see only stick ons for temps-- please invest in a digital probe thermometer - stick ons are for ambient temps only - you want actual basking temps and the digital probe will give you that - take the probe place it on the spot where he sits for basking wait 10 min or so get the temp - basking temps and UVB are the two MOST IMPORTANT things in the tank ---- babies 105-110 -- juvie/ adult 95-100 - as they get older they do not like real hot temps -
I would feed salads first thing in the morning every day http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder - insects should be offered 2-3 times per week after a year or so -- babies need insects every day 2-3 times per day when real young and up to around 3-5 months - if your offering salads and they are eating them thats great even a little the insect intake may slow down after around 4 months or so especially if your feeding salads and worms - like medium super worms at around 4 months of age and only 1-3 2-3 times per week or so - add to the tops of the salads - BSFL can be added to the tops of the salads as well - DO NOT dust those - they are a great staple feeder for babies they are small tho so you would need a lot they make a great compliment to the roaches www.symtonbsf.com -- meal worms can be added to the diet after about a year or so - for some reason they have a harder chitlin outside than the supers do but it is still better to feed them (the supers) sparingly when young - and yes meal worms can cause impaction in babies --- but feeding to big of a insect can do the same thing -

 

[Sadie]

Sand is not a good substrate for babies as they are very clumbsy and eat or taste everything - also sand harbors bacteria and is not very sanitary - I would recommend some textured NON adhesive shelf liner cut to the size of the tank - clean w/ vinegar/ water 50/50 - and you dont haft to change it out constantly from getting dirty and stinky - it is up to you but that is just my thoughts on sand

 

[Lil_Loki_Lover29]

Skybug has posted good UVB fixtures you want the 12% Arcadia bulb for the Pro T 5 ---- for the Zoo Med please get the Reptisun 10.0 T 5 bulb --- the 5.0 bulb can be used as back up if needed but the distance and placement is different from the 10.0 ---- please get rid of the heat rock in the tank - they can cause burns dragons heat from their backs not stomachs ---
Supplements should be 5 x per week calcium D3 for dragons up to a year -- at the age of 1 year they should go on alternating D3 and w/ out D3 w NO phosphorus when using a T 5 bulb --- D3 2 times per week then w/ out D3 3 times per week - vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week up to a year or longer - it depends if the dragon is eating his salads and a good variety of them they will get the nutrients out of those so its not going to be pressing for vitamins as long as hes eating them --- if not I would continue on w/ the vitamins 2 x per week -- dust lightly and dust the insects --- that way you know hes getting what he needs and yes there is a thing of over dusting w/ calcium - watch the poops if you start seeing orange around the outside of the white urate then hes getting too much calcium -
NO colored bulbs they are harmful to the eyes and can cause long term eye damage -dragons have a 3rd eye on top of their heads that is very sensitive to light - they use that eye for predators -- if you ever need heat in the tank for nite please get a ceramic heat emitter CHE they produce NO light -- temps at nite should be 65-75 cool and dark
I see only stick ons for temps-- please invest in a digital probe thermometer - stick ons are for ambient temps only - you want actual basking temps and the digital probe will give you that - take the probe place it on the spot where he sits for basking wait 10 min or so get the temp - basking temps and UVB are the two MOST IMPORTANT things in the tank ---- babies 105-110 -- juvie/ adult 95-100 - as they get older they do not like real hot temps -
I would feed salads first thing in the morning every day http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
Ignore the kale thing its a good staple feeder - insects should be offered 2-3 times per week after a year or so -- babies need insects every day 2-3 times per day when real young and up to around 3-5 months - if your offering salads and they are eating them thats great even a little the insect intake may slow down after around 4 months or so especially if your feeding salads and worms - like medium super worms at around 4 months of age and only 1-3 2-3 times per week or so - add to the tops of the salads - BSFL can be added to the tops of the salads as well - DO NOT dust those - they are a great staple feeder for babies they are small tho so you would need a lot they make a great compliment to the roaches www.symtonbsf.com -- meal worms can be added to the diet after about a year or so - for some reason they have a harder chitlin outside than the supers do but it is still better to feed them (the supers) sparingly when young - and yes meal worms can cause impaction in babies --- but feeding to big of a insect can do the same thing -

I have other thermometers. I had two on the back glass. They might not have been on in the time of the picture or maybe they weren’t noticeable. The two I had weren’t digital. But they read both temperature and humidity. But I also one digital one I use that I put the probe on his basking spot. But since I posted this. I have removed the heat rock. I didn’t think anything of it. He would lay on it here n there. Well he fell asleep on it. And when I took him off it he was slightly pink so I took it out immediately. The red bulb I am still using but only because all I have is a day light bulb. Basking bulb. Red heat light. And black heat light. I am going to get a slim fit fixture and uvb bulb next month. First thing. Ever since I started looking into the colored bulbs I have had mixed feelings about using it. And when I do I put it right next to the basking and uvb heat bulb. Makes it not so strong I feel. But I rarely have it on. I do have a Che but it’s on the iguana cage right now. My bf got an iguana. So I’ve decided the first think next month I’m getting all knew light setups for the both of them. So as for the vitamin part. I should be calcium with d3
5x a week until he is a year old then alternate? He eats his veggies and greens unless he sees me go next to the cricket cage then he won’t. He will just sit and stare at me until I give him crickets. But the next day if I start over without drawing his attention to the cricket cage he will eat them lol I guess his own mini version of a strike. But he seems to be healthy as for right now.

 

[Julee1971]

so there is so much condescending information on the internet. Some say color lights are ok. Some say absolutely not. I need to know what lighting I should have. So Loki is thriving and being the best he can be. Also how do you control humidity? And what’s the proper schedule for calcium supplements with d3 as well as calcium supplements without d3. From what I understand to much d3 can have the reverse effect on your dragons health. Also live feeder insects. So roaches are better than crickets? And mealworms hard outer shells can cause impaction? Freeze dried insects are a no go as well? Also. I read juvenile beardies need live feeders 2 or 3 times a day. But obviously not allowing them to engorge themselves. But once they hit that 6 to 12 month mark. Once a day 6 days. A week then 12 to 18 months and older live feeders 3x times a week. Allowing them to eat until they lose interest for 15 minutes. And make sure salads are available daily. Now is this correct incorrect or what? Help me please cuz the internet has me running in circles and I’m so dizzy I’m about to hit a wall lol just to clear up my photos. The one where the tank looks empty. I was cleaning all the things that go inside. He was only in that setup for a very short amount of time. The side by side was his one month progress from the day I brought him home from petco. The other ones are just to show his enclosure which I made everything inside myself. Found the wood. Cut it. Treated it. Stained it. Set it out to air out in the sun for over a week. Put the vines on it. Found the hide and hollowed it out myself painted it with acrylic. Let it dry for a couple days. Then went over it with a mixture of non toxic wood glue diluted in water. Made the swing. Made the hammock. Found and polished the rocks (did that prior to ever having him though) anyways ya. Painted the backdrop my self. And my boyfriend even made the top.

Hi; we reacue & rehome. Please please please get a new enclosure, yours looks to small & it will stress him out & stunt his growth. U can get a 40 gallon at Petsmart for $169 the doors open in the front which is easier for feeding and cleaning up the poop. Making your own is toxic and hard to regulate proper air flow, and controlling humidity. Also remove the heat rock or heat pad never use those it burns the Beardie. And correct; NO colored or coiled bulbs ever. U need a heat lamp & a Uvb long light. The best for heat is Zoomed clear basking bulb & for UVB it’s the Reptisun 10.0 T5 which needs replacing every 6Mnths religiously. Always replace the UvB light every 6Mnths. The length of UVB u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and he needs a hideaway to get away from it when needed or tonhave a shady area to take a break. So u can use the hammcok & place a soft terry cloth towel over it and under it place a fleece blanket so they can hide and rest they love soft plushy & comfy. Keep both the Heat & UVB on for 10-12 hours in the winter more liek 10 and both lights on in the winter for 12-14 hours; more like 14. At night use a 60 watt ceramic heat emitter for the dragon under 7Mnths old at night when he sleeps then when he’s older only use it in the winter of the temp drops below 70; u don’t need to use it in the summer. Get a digital thermometer & a digital hygrometer from Petsmart. Humidity should be 30-40 & never higher or they can get sick/URInfection. Controlling humidity; to raise the level place water dish inside & to lower it remove the water bowl or open windows, some say a half a lettuce with water can lower it too. Place the humidity round digital gauge on the hot side an inch or two from the top next to his basking spot alongside the probe for the thermometer; place the dial on the basking spot. The temp for a Beardie under 7mnths old should be 100-105 and as he gets older 95-98,
Feeders: a Beardie under 4mnths needs live feeders 4-5 times/day they are growing & they need it. Also, remember It takes 2hours for them to digest their food so lights need to remain on for 2hours after the last feeding so don’t feed too late. After he turns 7mnths to a year feed the proteins twice per day and after a year u can feeds once per day or every other day but also always & forever place the plate of greens/veggies to munch on all day. SkyBug tells people No crickets but that’s incorrect; the best feeders are crickets & Dubia Roaches; never do mealworms or bottled food or pellets they are horrible. After he turns a year old u can add superworms as treats but in moderation cuz they are high in fat and u can feed him hornworms which they love after he’s 1.5 years of age. Dust the feeders only once per day, 4times per week with the calcium powder w/D3 & on a non calcium day sprinkle the feeders w/Herptivite vitamin powder. Sprinkle like salt on fries/ or like a lightly powdered donut, don’t over powder excessively. Also always place a fresh plate of greens & veggies to munch on all day replace when wilted and leave it on the cold side of the tank next to his water; if U don’t train them now with the veggie/greens he will never eat them when he’s older. The best everyday ones are: mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, yellow squash, butternut squash, endives, snap peas, and green beans. You can do some red bell pepper once in a while too. Do 2-3 mixed and cut up small for him to his size they love mustard greens, yellow squash which has lots of calcium. Never feed spinach or carrots. As treats a few times a week do some fruits; blueberries, mangoes and papaya and bananas once in a while. For the substrate use paper towels or white terry cloth towels they are clean and easy; san is horrible for them & impacts them & carpet is hard to keep clean and they can get bacteria. Always remove all food, water dishes before bedtime & keep the enclosure super clean at all
Times to avoid bacteria/Coccidia. Mist the beardie a few times a day with dechlorinated water & baths twice per week in lukewarm dechlorinated water for 15min min and more baths when shedding otherwise the skin will stick & not come off and it can cut off their circulation; also they absorb water Thru their skin because some don’t drink out of a drinking bowl but it’s best if they drink and bathe. Buy REPTISAFE they are drops u place in the water to remove the chlorine which dries out their skin. Here’s a pic of the calcium/vitamin powder to buy and pics of some of our Enclosures. Other than that your beardie will have energy & thrive and not get MBD or brittle broken bones/shakes and have tons of energy if u use the correct Uvb (Reptisun 10.0 T5) and replace it every 6Mnths and the correct temp so he’s warm & pooping religiously. Poop should be firm and not lose or watery; the dark is the poop and the white is the urine. If the urine is yellowish; then he’s dehydrated or being over calcium’d/roo much calcium powder. Do a fecal sample at the vet it’s only $50 to see that he has no bacteria in his body. Other than that beardies love to watch tv so let the tv remain on and take him out in the hot sun in the summer to lounge on or next to you for 30min to an hour or let him roam around the house monitored of course for exercise.

 

[Lil_Loki_Lover29]

Hi; we reacue & rehome. Please please please get a new enclosure, yours looks to small & it will stress him out & stunt his growth. U can get a 40 gallon at Petsmart for $169 the doors open in the front which is easier for feeding and cleaning up the poop. Making your own is toxic and hard to regulate proper air flow, and controlling humidity. Also remove the heat rock or heat pad never use those it burns the Beardie. And correct; NO colored or coiled bulbs ever. U need a heat lamp & a Uvb long light. The best for heat is Zoomed clear basking bulb & for UVB it’s the Reptisun 10.0 T5 which needs replacing every 6Mnths religiously. Always replace the UvB light every 6Mnths. The length of UVB u order should cover 70 percent of the tank and he needs a hideaway to get away from it when needed or tonhave a shady area to take a break. So u can use the hammcok & place a soft terry cloth towel over it and under it place a fleece blanket so they can hide and rest they love soft plushy & comfy. Keep both the Heat & UVB on for 10-12 hours in the winter more liek 10 and both lights on in the winter for 12-14 hours; more like 14. At night use a 60 watt ceramic heat emitter for the dragon under 7Mnths old at night when he sleeps then when he’s older only use it in the winter of the temp drops below 70; u don’t need to use it in the summer. Get a digital thermometer & a digital hygrometer from Petsmart. Humidity should be 30-40 & never higher or they can get sick/URInfection. Controlling humidity; to raise the level place water dish inside & to lower it remove the water bowl or open windows, some say a half a lettuce with water can lower it too. Place the humidity round digital gauge on the hot side an inch or two from the top next to his basking spot alongside the probe for the thermometer; place the dial on the basking spot. The temp for a Beardie under 7mnths old should be 100-105 and as he gets older 95-98,
Feeders: a Beardie under 4mnths needs live feeders 4-5 times/day they are growing & they need it. Also, remember It takes 2hours for them to digest their food so lights need to remain on for 2hours after the last feeding so don’t feed too late. After he turns 7mnths to a year feed the proteins twice per day and after a year u can feeds once per day or every other day but also always & forever place the plate of greens/veggies to munch on all day. SkyBug tells people No crickets but that’s incorrect; the best feeders are crickets & Dubia Roaches; never do mealworms or bottled food or pellets they are horrible. After he turns a year old u can add superworms as treats but in moderation cuz they are high in fat and u can feed him hornworms which they love after he’s 1.5 years of age. Dust the feeders only once per day, 4times per week with the calcium powder w/D3 & on a non calcium day sprinkle the feeders w/Herptivite vitamin powder. Sprinkle like salt on fries/ or like a lightly powdered donut, don’t over powder excessively. Also always place a fresh plate of greens & veggies to munch on all day replace when wilted and leave it on the cold side of the tank next to his water; if U don’t train them now with the veggie/greens he will never eat them when he’s older. The best everyday ones are: mustard greens, collard greens, dandelions, yellow squash, butternut squash, endives, snap peas, and green beans. You can do some red bell pepper once in a while too. Do 2-3 mixed and cut up small for him to his size they love mustard greens, yellow squash which has lots of calcium. Never feed spinach or carrots. As treats a few times a week do some fruits; blueberries, mangoes and papaya and bananas once in a while. For the substrate use paper towels or white terry cloth towels they are clean and easy; san is horrible for them & impacts them & carpet is hard to keep clean and they can get bacteria. Always remove all food, water dishes before bedtime & keep the enclosure super clean at all
Times to avoid bacteria/Coccidia. Mist the beardie a few times a day with dechlorinated water & baths twice per week in lukewarm dechlorinated water for 15min min and more baths when shedding otherwise the skin will stick & not come off and it can cut off their circulation; also they absorb water Thru their skin because some don’t drink out of a drinking bowl but it’s best if they drink and bathe. Buy REPTISAFE they are drops u place in the water to remove the chlorine which dries out their skin. Here’s a pic of the calcium/vitamin powder to buy and pics of some of our Enclosures. Other than that your beardie will have energy & thrive and not get MBD or brittle broken bones/shakes and have tons of energy if u use the correct Uvb (Reptisun 10.0 T5) and replace it every 6Mnths and the correct temp so he’s warm & pooping religiously. Poop should be firm and not lose or watery; the dark is the poop and the white is the urine. If the urine is yellowish; then he’s dehydrated or being over calcium’d/roo much calcium powder. Do a fecal sample at the vet it’s only $50 to see that he has no bacteria in his body. Other than that beardies love to watch tv so let the tv remain on and take him out in the hot sun in the summer to lounge on or next to you for 30min to an hour or let him roam around the house monitored of course for exercise.

 

[Lil_Loki_Lover29]

So far you are the first person that has been able to break it down so simply for me. Although it’s not that it’s confusing. There is just so much. And everywhere you look has a different opinion or what ever. I 100% thankful and appreciate everything you said. But I do disagree with the part about my cage. He is about 13 inches long. Maybe 12. From nose to tail. I know I’m the next few months I plan on trying to find a 65 or 75 gallon fish tank. But for right now he’s in a 30 or 40 gallon fish tank I don’t remember. But it’s 36 inches by 18 inches and also 18 inches deep. Trust me he has plenty of room to zip around in there. I have two thermometers. One analog which also does humidity I keep it on the hot side the digital one I keep the little probe thing on the cool side but I can test the basking spot very easily with it. I have his food and water on the cool side. I already removed the red light. From both my beardies since I have been given another one. It’s two month or so older. It’s tank is longer but isn’t quite as wide I think the depth are the same. I will be upgrading his very soon as well. But at the moment he is fine with room. The sand I will be removing for good when I clean it today. Ive already decided that. I have a cat litter mat I got at Walmart for the substrate. It’s gray. Has kind of a felty feeling top and rubber bottom. It’s reusable because it’s machine washable. I just spray it down with the hose. The spray it with vinegar solution let it sit. Scrub it once over on both sides with a brush then spray it again and let it dry outside. I will post pictures of everything also. His hide I made. I found wood by the river. Sprayed it down. A couple different times. Over the course of a week while letting it bake in the sun. Then soaked it in a bleach solution for twelve hours. Then rinsed it and soaked it in water for 12 hours. Rinsed again and resoaked for another 12 hours after I changed the water then dried it out in the over. I painted it with acrylic paints. Then watered down non toxic wood glue to make kind of a sealer. Then set it out for an additional day to dry. The entire process from start to finish took me about 2 weeks. The other one my boyfriend painted and sealed but I made him set it in the sun for an additional 3 days to make sure there were no fumes. I even went over it with my hair dryer (that’s how paranoid I am of doing something that might hurt him.) I made him a hammock and a swing. Both under reconstruction because I didn’t like the way they turned out. He loved his swing though. I painted the back drop myself and attached it to the outside. I do have uvb in one the domes. It’s not a coil. Just a regular bulb. Got it from Walmart. My plan is to start next month ordering a few more digital thermometers and humidity readers. I have 2 digital thermometers. And two analog humidity things. One of them I’m not sure works right or not. But I have 3 lizards. I would like to have two per enclosure. I really like the bio active setups. I can’t afford those right now but that’s my future goals for all three. As well as to have slim fit t5 or t8 or whichever it is uvb 10.0 bulbs with heat lights, basking light and Che in each one. But I can only do one edition at a time because moneys tight. I also have 2 rabbits. 2 dogs. And 2 kittens. They all have everything they need. But I very recently got into reptiles so I’m still acquiring. The hot side usually reads anywhere from 99 to 104ish and the cool side stays around 83ish to like 87ish. I take him outside everyday he goes with me when I walk to the entrance of the trailer park to get our mail. And then I sit with him as long as I can stand on the porch when we get back. Usually 10 to 15 min. I live in tri cities and it’s hot right now. But I try to take him out for thirty minutes or so I’m the evening when it’s still sunny but noticeably cooler. I just recently acquired one outside tank. And having to alternate while clean between each lizard is wearing. So I alternate the other two and just hold Loki. And I hold Odin too. I make my bf deal with Thor since I bought him for him. He’s an iguana. Anyways back to what I was saying. Baths. I bath him sometimes every other day. Sometimes every two days but everyday for at leather five to ten minutes. I try to push 15 minutes twice a day when he sheds. But he doesn’t like the water so I go as long as I can without feeling like I’m being a jerk and making him. I do most between baths. I clean his poop out prolly twice a day. Sometimes he poops multiple times. Sometimes he don’t poop for a day. I have. Even feeding him live crickets twice a day. And a salad readily available all day. I did give him carrots one time. I didn’t know they were bad. But the last two weeks his salads have been mainly. Collard greens. Kale. Mustard greens. Occasionally cabbage. Green leaf lettuce. I have him blueberries three times. He doesn’t care for them. I gave him apples once maybe twice I don’t remember. And he likes those. And strawberries once. But like I said that was over two weeks. I plan on bumping him up to crickets 4 times a day. But two of those times will have to be freeze dried. I tried cricket farming. And for some reason the crickets that didn’t die. I’m not sure if they laid eggs or not. I guess time will tell. But I do have another beardie now that is twice his size. A little aggressive but I’m taming him. I have to add into the mix. Like I said he was kind of just thrown at me. I knew the person that got him as a baby. We already tamed him him down for her once but she didn’t keep up on it. And decides she didn’t have the time for him and was gonna get rid of him. But as for supplements. I wanted the zoo med repti cal calcium powders. And the herptivite vitamins but chewy (where I order my supplies from ) was sold out of one of the calcium’s and the multivitamin and I wanted whatever brand I chose. All three to be the same. So that they worked together sorta speak. Not against. So I went with flukes. But as a Temp. I had purchased rapashy vitamin plus calcium. Because I didn’t want to spend an arm and a leg at petco when I had ordered already online. I still plan on obtaining and switching to the zoo med brand but as of right now I’m gonna try out flukers and see if I like it. I was dusting the crickets both times. But will only be doing once from now on. I am uploading a picture of my supplements schedule. If it’s wrong please tell me. I have also included my reasons for the way I set it up on there it will be the supplement schedule for both beardies and the iguana. My other beardie will remain at feeders twice while my younger one will be 4. Until he is the size of the other and will go down to two. The other is around 6 months I believe it close too. About 17 inches long. A bit of a chunkie but lol. Sorry for this essays I responded with. Just basically telling you my routines and ways. In hopes of if you see error you will correct me. I believe that’s most of it. I don’t feel I left anything out. I will also be purchasing timers for the lights so I can set them to run coherent with the sunrise and sunset. Forgive my messy room. Have to rearrange considering I now have instead of one. But three fairly large sized enclosure that need to come in here. Because I don’t trust my bf senile dad not to do something weird. Now before anyone jumps me. Yes I forgot to clean out my beardies greens from yesterday. I am preparing there salads right now. And Odin my bigger beardie spent the night in the outside enclosure. I got him given to me last night. And it was to late to get his enclosure all situated and put together the stand. Had to dismantle it to get in car. I have to clean his tank. So I couldn’t just throw him in it anyways. I am putting the tank together and setting up after I make them there lunch. And that’s the end of my little novel haha. The flukers are what I purchased. And the rapashy. The other were what the other beardie came with.
Also bear with me. I was gonna clean him out yesterday. If it got a little hectic so today is clean tank day for both beardies. Sand is disappearing. No more heat rock. Also the humidity reader In there I don’t think works. Uris when I had both In there. This one never really changed. But the other one fluctuated between 25 % and usually on a high day somewheee between 35 and 40. But the majority of the time it’s roughly around 30 below are pics of my supplements. Enclosure. Thermometer. Both of them. There readings at the moment. My supplement schedule. My outside enclosure. My other heir is. And my substrate

 

[Skybug]

Julee doesn’t usually follow up after she writes a book to people, jus a fyi, nice homework btw, you got some pretty good care going for ur lil lizard

 

[Lil_Loki_Lover29]

Haha thank you. I just know it’s easy to improperly care for your lizard. I didn’t know it originally. I figured. Heat light. Uvb light. Bugs. And cabbage. That’s all I was ever really told. Until I started double checking for myself.

 

[Julee1971]

So far you are the first person that has been able to break it down so simply for me. Although it’s not that it’s confusing. There is just so much. And everywhere you look has a different opinion or what ever. I 100% thankful and appreciate everything you said. But I do disagree with the part about my cage. He is about 13 inches long. Maybe 12. From nose to tail. I know I’m the next few months I plan on trying to find a 65 or 75 gallon fish tank. But for right now he’s in a 30 or 40 gallon fish tank I don’t remember. But it’s 36 inches by 18 inches and also 18 inches deep. Trust me he has plenty of room to zip around in there. I have two thermometers. One analog which also does humidity I keep it on the hot side the digital one I keep the little probe thing on the cool side but I can test the basking spot very easily with it. I have his food and water on the cool side. I already removed the red light. From both my beardies since I have been given another one. It’s two month or so older. It’s tank is longer but isn’t quite as wide I think the depth are the same. I will be upgrading his very soon as well. But at the moment he is fine with room. The sand I will be removing for good when I clean it today. Ive already decided that. I have a cat litter mat I got at Walmart for the substrate. It’s gray. Has kind of a felty feeling top and rubber bottom. It’s reusable because it’s machine washable. I just spray it down with the hose. The spray it with vinegar solution let it sit. Scrub it once over on both sides with a brush then spray it again and let it dry outside. I will post pictures of everything also. His hide I made. I found wood by the river. Sprayed it down. A couple different times. Over the course of a week while letting it bake in the sun. Then soaked it in a bleach solution for twelve hours. Then rinsed it and soaked it in water for 12 hours. Rinsed again and resoaked for another 12 hours after I changed the water then dried it out in the over. I painted it with acrylic paints. Then watered down non toxic wood glue to make kind of a sealer. Then set it out for an additional day to dry. The entire process from start to finish took me about 2 weeks. The other one my boyfriend painted and sealed but I made him set it in the sun for an additional 3 days to make sure there were no fumes. I even went over it with my hair dryer (that’s how paranoid I am of doing something that might hurt him.) I made him a hammock and a swing. Both under reconstruction because I didn’t like the way they turned out. He loved his swing though. I painted the back drop myself and attached it to the outside. I do have uvb in one the domes. It’s not a coil. Just a regular bulb. Got it from Walmart. My plan is to start next month ordering a few more digital thermometers and humidity readers. I have 2 digital thermometers. And two analog humidity things. One of them I’m not sure works right or not. But I have 3 lizards. I would like to have two per enclosure. I really like the bio active setups. I can’t afford those right now but that’s my future goals for all three. As well as to have slim fit t5 or t8 or whichever it is uvb 10.0 bulbs with heat lights, basking light and Che in each one. But I can only do one edition at a time because moneys tight. I also have 2 rabbits. 2 dogs. And 2 kittens. They all have everything they need. But I very recently got into reptiles so I’m still acquiring. The hot side usually reads anywhere from 99 to 104ish and the cool side stays around 83ish to like 87ish. I take him outside everyday he goes with me when I walk to the entrance of the trailer park to get our mail. And then I sit with him as long as I can stand on the porch when we get back. Usually 10 to 15 min. I live in tri cities and it’s hot right now. But I try to take him out for thirty minutes or so I’m the evening when it’s still sunny but noticeably cooler. I just recently acquired one outside tank. And having to alternate while clean between each lizard is wearing. So I alternate the other two and just hold Loki. And I hold Odin too. I make my bf deal with Thor since I bought him for him. He’s an iguana. Anyways back to what I was saying. Baths. I bath him sometimes every other day. Sometimes every two days but everyday for at leather five to ten minutes. I try to push 15 minutes twice a day when he sheds. But he doesn’t like the water so I go as long as I can without feeling like I’m being a jerk and making him. I do most between baths. I clean his poop out prolly twice a day. Sometimes he poops multiple times. Sometimes he don’t poop for a day. I have. Even feeding him live crickets twice a day. And a salad readily available all day. I did give him carrots one time. I didn’t know they were bad. But the last two weeks his salads have been mainly. Collard greens. Kale. Mustard greens. Occasionally cabbage. Green leaf lettuce. I have him blueberries three times. He doesn’t care for them. I gave him apples once maybe twice I don’t remember. And he likes those. And strawberries once. But like I said that was over two weeks. I plan on bumping him up to crickets 4 times a day. But two of those times will have to be freeze dried. I tried cricket farming. And for some reason the crickets that didn’t die. I’m not sure if they laid eggs or not. I guess time will tell. But I do have another beardie now that is twice his size. A little aggressive but I’m taming him. I have to add into the mix. Like I said he was kind of just thrown at me. I knew the person that got him as a baby. We already tamed him him down for her once but she didn’t keep up on it. And decides she didn’t have the time for him and was gonna get rid of him. But as for supplements. I wanted the zoo med repti cal calcium powders. And the herptivite vitamins but chewy (where I order my supplies from ) was sold out of one of the calcium’s and the multivitamin and I wanted whatever brand I chose. All three to be the same. So that they worked together sorta speak. Not against. So I went with flukes. But as a Temp. I had purchased rapashy vitamin plus calcium. Because I didn’t want to spend an arm and a leg at petco when I had ordered already online. I still plan on obtaining and switching to the zoo med brand but as of right now I’m gonna try out flukers and see if I like it. I was dusting the crickets both times. But will only be doing once from now on. I am uploading a picture of my supplements schedule. If it’s wrong please tell me. I have also included my reasons for the way I set it up on there it will be the supplement schedule for both beardies and the iguana. My other beardie will remain at feeders twice while my younger one will be 4. Until he is the size of the other and will go down to two. The other is around 6 months I believe it close too. About 17 inches long. A bit of a chunkie but lol. Sorry for this essays I responded with. Just basically telling you my routines and ways. In hopes of if you see error you will correct me. I believe that’s most of it. I don’t feel I left anything out. I will also be purchasing timers for the lights so I can set them to run coherent with the sunrise and sunset. Forgive my messy room. Have to rearrange considering I now have instead of one. But three fairly large sized enclosure that need to come in here. Because I don’t trust my bf senile dad not to do something weird. Now before anyone jumps me. Yes I forgot to clean out my beardies greens from yesterday. I am preparing there salads right now. And Odin my bigger beardie spent the night in the outside enclosure. I got him given to me last night. And it was to late to get his enclosure all situated and put together the stand. Had to dismantle it to get in car. I have to clean his tank. So I couldn’t just throw him in it anyways. I am putting the tank together and setting up after I make them there lunch. And that’s the end of my little novel haha. The flukers are what I purchased. And the rapashy. The other were what the other beardie came with.
Also bear with me. I was gonna clean him out yesterday. If it got a little hectic so today is clean tank day for both beardies. Sand is disappearing. No more heat rock. Also the humidity reader In there I don’t think works. Uris when I had both In there. This one never really changed. But the other one fluctuated between 25 % and usually on a high day somewheee between 35 and 40. But the majority of the time it’s roughly around 30 below are pics of my supplements. Enclosure. Thermometer. Both of them. There readings at the moment. My supplement schedule. My outside enclosure. My other heir is. And my substrate

Julee doesn’t usually follow up after she writes a book to people, jus a fyi, nice homework btw, you got some pretty good care going for ur lil lizard

Wjy if

Julee doesn’t usually follow up after she writes a book to people, jus a fyi, nice homework btw, you got some pretty good care going for ur lil lizard

Sky bug; I don’t follow up? READ what I posted and follow it down to the “T” it’s very simple read what I wrote and follow it. I’m glad she read it but look at her Enclosres that’s Sad and vinegar and paint and chemicals that’s deadly to a beardie u cannot place a mat with vinegar back In the cage; the vinegar lingers for weeks and weeks!! Also a fish tank & all the water and food all over that’s unsanitary beardie will be sick in no time!! Read all she posted; She wants to place 2 beardies in once cage?? Calcium everyday? NoNONoNo-All wrong. Worst of all she has 3 lights and a chi which is not for day use and doesn’t have the proper Uvb; the beardies will Get MBD over nite

 

[Skybug]

Wjy if

Sky bug; I don’t follow up? READ what I posted and follow it down to the “T” it’s very simple read what I wrote and follow it. I’m glad she read it but look at her Enclosres that’s Sad and vinegar and paint and chemicals that’s deadly to a beardie u cannot place a mat with vinegar back In the cage; the vinegar lingers for weeks and weeks!! Also a fish tank & all the water and food all over that’s unsanitary beardie will be sick in no time!! Read all she posted; She wants to place 2 beardies in once cage?? Calcium everyday? NoNONoNo-All wrong. Worst of all she has 3 lights and a chi which is not for day use and doesn’t have the proper Uvb; the beardies will Get MBD over nite

This is the first time ive seen follow up on someones post,….. and ur talking to me….. lol okay….. julee keep to yourself , dont @ me…. Nobody needs ur condescending attitude, not everyone can be as smart as you darling…

 

[Skybug]

Wjy if

Sky bug; I don’t follow up? READ what I posted and follow it down to the “T” it’s very simple read what I wrote and follow it. I’m glad she read it but look at her Enclosres that’s Sad and vinegar and paint and chemicals that’s deadly to a beardie u cannot place a mat with vinegar back In the cage; the vinegar lingers for weeks and weeks!! Also a fish tank & all the water and food all over that’s unsanitary beardie will be sick in no time!! Read all she posted; She wants to place 2 beardies in once cage?? Calcium everyday? NoNONoNo-All wrong. Worst of all she has 3 lights and a chi which is not for day use and doesn’t have the proper Uvb; the beardies will Get MBD over nite

Also….. u Practically write the same dang thing on everyones posts,…. I bet I could write it even better than you at this point…..

 

[Krystal0]

so there is so much condescending information on the internet. Some say color lights are ok. Some say absolutely not. I need to know what lighting I should have. So Loki is thriving and being the best he can be. Also how do you control humidity? And what’s the proper schedule for calcium supplements with d3 as well as calcium supplements without d3. From what I understand to much d3 can have the reverse effect on your dragons health. Also live feeder insects. So roaches are better than crickets? And mealworms hard outer shells can cause impaction? Freeze dried insects are a no go as well? Also. I read juvenile beardies need live feeders 2 or 3 times a day. But obviously not allowing them to engorge themselves. But once they hit that 6 to 12 month mark. Once a day 6 days. A week then 12 to 18 months and older live feeders 3x times a week. Allowing them to eat until they lose interest for 15 minutes. And make sure salads are available daily. Now is this correct incorrect or what? Help me please cuz the internet has me running in circles and I’m so dizzy I’m about to hit a wall lol just to clear up my photos. The one where the tank looks empty. I was cleaning all the things that go inside. He was only in that setup for a very short amount of time. The side by side was his one month progress from the day I brought him home from petco. The other ones are just to show his enclosure which I made everything inside myself. Found the wood. Cut it. Treated it. Stained it. Set it out to air out in the sun for over a week. Put the vines on it. Found the hide and hollowed it out myself painted it with acrylic. Let it dry for a couple days. Then went over it with a mixture of non toxic wood glue diluted in water. Made the swing. Made the hammock. Found and polished the rocks (did that prior to ever having him though) anyways ya. Painted the backdrop my self. And my boyfriend even made the top.

none that medicine stuff