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Lighting for 40g

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
Hi, new beardie owner here. I currently have a baby in a 20g tank with a dual dime fixture. Want to get prepared for a 40g enclosure. I plan on using a t5 10.0 with the current fixture. If I use an infrared heat projector in it do I need another bulb for the basking area? If so what should it be. Thanks in advance
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Hi, new beardie owner here. I currently have a baby in a 20g tank with a dual dime fixture. Want to get prepared for a 40g enclosure. I plan on using a t5 10.0 with the current fixture. If I use an infrared heat projector in it do I need another bulb for the basking area? If so what should it be. Thanks in advance
The heat projector is good for temps falling below 65 at night - I would suggest a 4x2x2 tank not the 40 gallon you will need to upgrade that one by the time the dragon is a year old - and yes you need a solid clear bright white basking bulb--- CHE's and heat projectors are good for heat but not for basking - they need the UVA that is given off by the bright white basking bulb --- how long is the UVB fixture? and yes you need it for bigger tanks of 20 gallons -- I can post some links for you for 4x2x2 tanks some are on sale now --- I would recommend getting that size instead of the 40 gallon -- your dragon will be happier ---
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
The heat projector is good for temps falling below 65 at night - I would suggest a 4x2x2 tank not the 40 gallon you will need to upgrade that one by the time the dragon is a year old - and yes you need a solid clear bright white basking bulb--- CHE's and heat projectors are good for heat but not for basking - they need the UVA that is given off by the bright white basking bulb --- how long is the UVB fixture? and yes you need it for bigger tanks of 20 gallons -- I can post some links for you for 4x2x2 tanks some are on sale now --- I would recommend getting that size instead of the 40 gallon -- your dragon will be happier ---
So the heat projector just for night time and a white basking bulb along with the uvb. I’m assuming if I run the heat projector all day the basking bulb doesn’t need to be a high wattage? Any suggestions on this bulb? And I was going to go get the 36x18x18 enclosure today as it’s 110$ on sale lol. Thank you
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
So the heat projector just for night time and a white basking bulb along with the uvb. I’m assuming if I run the heat projector all day the basking bulb doesn’t need to be a high wattage? Any suggestions on this bulb? And I was going to go get the 36x18x18 enclosure today as it’s 110$ on sale lol. Thank you
Oh I was looking at the 24” uvb fixture to go with the 36” tank and run the dual dome in the basking corner
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Oh I was looking at the 24” uvb fixture to go with the 36” tank and run the dual dome in the basking corner
Ok the 24" fixture would be fine for the 40 gallon tank -- not leaving much room for her to get out of the UVB rays- they need to be able to sit in the tank w/ out having to constantly be under the rays -- you found a deal --- you want that basking bulb to be able to keep temps for surface basking 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer- this is what starts digestion for the dragon - if those temps are not met you will get him pooping out undigested bugs- and he will get cold--- the heat projector will keep ambient temps up but your basking bulb should be able to do that w / out the help of the projector --- good basking bulbs are Flukers-- Exo Terra Intense -- or Arcadia halogens-- you can use a regular indacanscent house hold bulb but it MUST have your surface basking temps up to par -- you dont want undigested bugs and you want the temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- as the dragon gets older like 5- 6 months those surface basking temps will change to 95-100 -- they dont like real hot temps as they age --
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
Ok the 24" fixture would be fine for the 40 gallon tank -- not leaving much room for her to get out of the UVB rays- they need to be able to sit in the tank w/ out having to constantly be under the rays -- you found a deal --- you want that basking bulb to be able to keep temps for surface basking 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer- this is what starts digestion for the dragon - if those temps are not met you will get him pooping out undigested bugs- and he will get cold--- the heat projector will keep ambient temps up but your basking bulb should be able to do that w / out the help of the projector --- good basking bulbs are Flukers-- Exo Terra Intense -- or Arcadia halogens-- you can use a regular indacanscent house hold bulb but it MUST have your surface basking temps up to par -- you dont want undigested bugs and you want the temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- as the dragon gets older like 5- 6 months those surface basking temps will change to 95-100 -- they dont like real hot temps as they age --
Yes I understand the temperature requirements but thought I could keep them up with an incandescent and the projector. Thanks for the clarification. So basically the projector is only for night time heating
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
Ok the 24" fixture would be fine for the 40 gallon tank -- not leaving much room for her to get out of the UVB rays- they need to be able to sit in the tank w/ out having to constantly be under the rays -- you found a deal --- you want that basking bulb to be able to keep temps for surface basking 105-110 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer- this is what starts digestion for the dragon - if those temps are not met you will get him pooping out undigested bugs- and he will get cold--- the heat projector will keep ambient temps up but your basking bulb should be able to do that w / out the help of the projector --- good basking bulbs are Flukers-- Exo Terra Intense -- or Arcadia halogens-- you can use a regular indacanscent house hold bulb but it MUST have your surface basking temps up to par -- you dont want undigested bugs and you want the temps taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- as the dragon gets older like 5- 6 months those surface basking temps will change to 95-100 -- they dont like real hot temps as they age --
And sorry but I bought my dragon from a reptile store that gave me pretty bad advice I believe. Probably to sell me more crap down the road. They breed them there and have a nice setup and sell all kinds of reptiles but I’m not thrilled with what they sold me equipment wise
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Yes I understand the temperature requirements but thought I could keep them up with an incandescent and the projector. Thanks for the clarification. So basically the projector is only for night time heating
Yes unless you absolutely need it- I have 2 120 gallon tanks and use 3 basking bulbs- I have 2 basking areas one in the middle of the tank and one in the back- middle of tank has my uvb so he's getting both uvb and basking temps-- the middle bulb is a 75 watt temps range from 90's to 98 or so - the back has a decor piece that offers temps of 95-100 or so - depends on where he sits - and this room gets warm on sunny days so I keep tabs on the temps - I can shut the one basking bulb off in the back - it's a 75 watt as well- I live in MN so it gets cold here- I do have Che's for nights that are below zero- that keeps temps around 70
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
The heat projector is good for temps falling below 65 at night - I would suggest a 4x2x2 tank not the 40 gallon you will need to upgrade that one by the time the dragon is a year old - and yes you need a solid clear bright white basking bulb--- CHE's and heat projectors are good for heat but not for basking - they need the UVA that is given off by the bright white basking bulb --- how long is the UVB fixture? and yes you need it for bigger tanks of 20 gallons -- I can post some links for you for 4x2x2 tanks some are on sale now --- I would recommend getting that size instead of the 40 gallon -- your dragon will be happier ---
Could you post a pic of your setup? Also a 75 watt is enough to get 100 degrees? Any other heat source in your tank?
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Could you post a pic of your setup? Also a 75 watt is enough to get 100 degrees? Any other heat source in your tank?
No other heat at this time - the ambient temps on the basking hot side run about 100 thats w/ the 75 watt and the 150 watt going in the winter- summer the 150 drops to 100 watt - and most of the day the 75 watt is not on - the 75 watt in the middle of the tank runs in the 90's - the tank showing is Blazes - Hiccups is set up the same way -- both have 2 hides cool side and under the UVB -- I use two digital probe thermometers one analog and a IR gun -- I need to get my CHE's set up for Dec / Jan coming up - that is when we get our coldest temps below zero-- for the most part w/ the heat going in my house the tanks drop to 68 at night- I have the CHE's for colder nights and my house temp is set at 70 --
 

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Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
No other heat at this time - the ambient temps on the basking hot side run about 100 thats w/ the 75 watt and the 150 watt going in the winter- summer the 150 drops to 100 watt - and most of the day the 75 watt is not on - the 75 watt in the middle of the tank runs in the 90's - the tank showing is Blazes - Hiccups is set up the same way -- both have 2 hides cool side and under the UVB -- I use two digital probe thermometers one analog and a IR gun -- I need to get my CHE's set up for Dec / Jan coming up - that is when we get our coldest temps below zero-- for the most part w/ the heat going in my house the tanks drop to 68 at night- I have the CHE's for colder nights and my house temp is set at 70 --
Beautiful, so I’m thinking of going with a 150 basking light and a 75w heat projector on one side in the dual bulb fixture and hopefully that will get me 105-110 on the basking spot and just ordered a 24”t5. For the middle. I’ll put hides on both sides and adjust the wattage on the dual fixture as necessary. Maybe get a temp controller for the heat projector. Ordered the zoo Med 36x18x18 also, for 110$ I can’t go wrong and I’ll upgrade In a year if needed. I’m pretty sure I can sell the 40g for about what I’m paying for it. He’s a tiny guy now anyway. Don’t yell at me about the red lamp that’s what they sold me. Gonna exchange those bulbs at the store I bought them.
93260AE7-D643-4D29-96C5-31B49AEF9200.jpeg
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Beautiful, so I’m thinking of going with a 150 basking light and a 75w heat projector on one side in the dual bulb fixture and hopefully that will get me 105-110 on the basking spot and just ordered a 24”t5. For the middle. I’ll put hides on both sides and adjust the wattage on the dual fixture as necessary. Maybe get a temp controller for the heat projector. Ordered the zoo Med 36x18x18 also, for 110$ I can’t go wrong and I’ll upgrade In a year if needed. I’m pretty sure I can sell the 40g for about what I’m paying for it. He’s a tiny guy now anyway. Don’t yell at me about the red lamp that’s what they sold me. Gonna exchange those bulbs at the store I bought them.
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I dont know what it is about pet store people selling this stuff -- any colored bulb is a big NO NO - they cause eye damage and disrupt the sleep- dragons have a 3rd eye on top of their heads for predators and that light distorts the vision -- please shut it off ---- when you get the UVB they have certain distance and placement for them and your screen is going to determine where it goes -- hes a little guy so your setting the tank up w/ all the correct lighting and temps -- of which will keep him healthy and thriving -- along w / his diet--- you want him started on salads now -you can rinse the greens before serving he will get moisture from them- his diet will change when he turns a year old- right now he needs live insects 2-3 time per day along w/ calcium D3 dusted ONCE per day on the insects 5 x per week - and vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week dusted on the insects ONCE per day -- its best to dust the insects instead of the greens as you know hes going to eat those -- I recommend dubia roaches w/ some BSFL to lure him to the bowl-- use as many of the BSFL as you want do not dust them they are calcium enriched --- if you decide to go w/ the BSFL you will need a bowl similar to this to keep them in https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
if you need websites to order from let me know I will post some --- it is cheaper and more reliable to get them on line than the pet stores -- also you will need a digital probe hygrometer -- like this https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
you want optimal humidity 40-50% nothing under 20 and over 70% -- this helps w/ shedding--
let me know about the websites and I can send you shopping for bugs --
here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
ignore the kale info its outdated and a real good staple feeder
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
I dont know what it is about pet store people selling this stuff -- any colored bulb is a big NO NO - they cause eye damage and disrupt the sleep- dragons have a 3rd eye on top of their heads for predators and that light distorts the vision -- please shut it off ---- when you get the UVB they have certain distance and placement for them and your screen is going to determine where it goes -- hes a little guy so your setting the tank up w/ all the correct lighting and temps -- of which will keep him healthy and thriving -- along w / his diet--- you want him started on salads now -you can rinse the greens before serving he will get moisture from them- his diet will change when he turns a year old- right now he needs live insects 2-3 time per day along w/ calcium D3 dusted ONCE per day on the insects 5 x per week - and vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week dusted on the insects ONCE per day -- its best to dust the insects instead of the greens as you know hes going to eat those -- I recommend dubia roaches w/ some BSFL to lure him to the bowl-- use as many of the BSFL as you want do not dust them they are calcium enriched --- if you decide to go w/ the BSFL you will need a bowl similar to this to keep them in https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
if you need websites to order from let me know I will post some --- it is cheaper and more reliable to get them on line than the pet stores -- also you will need a digital probe hygrometer -- like this https://www.amazon.com/MACGOAL-Rept...uGQB&pd_rd_wg=tLkwE&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d
you want optimal humidity 40-50% nothing under 20 and over 70% -- this helps w/ shedding--
let me know about the websites and I can send you shopping for bugs --
here is a website for nutrition http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
ignore the kale info its outdated and a real good staple feeder
Yes I have dubia, ordered from dubia.com. And the worms. And a Bowl. Was thinking of using Repashy calcium plus as his powder. He/she gets greens every morning. Kale is what we’re using now with zucchini. Also mixing in crickets and hornworms. We keep a little water In dish so I think that should keep humidity pretty good till I get the hygrometer. I used to keep salt water fish and coral so I’m used to keeping a habitat correct. Just was sold bad stuff by a reptile store.
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Yes I have dubia, ordered from dubia.com. And the worms. And a Bowl. Was thinking of using Repashy calcium plus as his powder. He/she gets greens every morning. Kale is what we’re using now with zucchini. Also mixing in crickets and hornworms. We keep a little water In dish so I think that should keep humidity pretty good till I get the hygrometer. I used to keep salt water fish and coral so I’m used to keeping a habitat correct. Just was sold bad stuff by a reptile store.
I understand - most reptile stores have employees that do not have a clue about taking care of dragons- most often their advice leads to many dragons getting sick or dead
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
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update got the Arcadia 12% on top for now. With a 75w basking bulb and a 150w heat projector. Little worried about the temp. Only 100 on hot side and 72 on cool side so far. Only been on about 40 minutes. I wanted the 150w basking bulb as well but the lizard store swore the 75 was enough.
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
17F87542-4795-4781-95DD-B573C29C7322.jpeg
seems happy
 

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Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
What type of screen on the tank? It looks from what I can see is a fine mesh like a screen door -- if so it needs to be unobstructed w/ a distance of 12-15 inches directly over the basking decor piece - I would of opted for a 100 watt projector and a 150 basking bulb --- BUT you must have a digital probe thermometer to get your surface basking temps 105-110--- the 150 watt projector may be too much for the tank --- its better to have your basking bulbs giving off the heat and using your projector for night time heat --- please dont listen to those people --- you dont need that projector if temps are 65-75 at night --- dragons like cool and dark
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
Yes I tried to hang it in the tank but it seemed too low. Was about 15” off the bottom. I can get it about an inch higher but that’s it. So far the basking spot is around 110 to the touch. Meaning the probe directly on the rock
 

Sadie

Bearded Dragon Veteran
3 Year Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
10,692
Yes I tried to hang it in the tank but it seemed too low. Was about 15” off the bottom. I can get it about an inch higher but that’s it. So far the basking spot is around 110 to the touch. Meaning the probe directly on the rock
Ok your tank is 18" high? The basking temps is good- as he gets older 6 months he won't want temps that high usually they drop down to 95-100- you can take half the screen off so the uvb is unobstructed or cut the screen or look for a wide hole type then it can sit on top- let me know what you decide- the wide hole type will change distance
 

Dk638

Hatchling Dragon
Messages
78
So 75 degrees on the cool side is ok? Was gonna add a cheap dome if I had too
 
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