Gotta few questions

[Jericakasmira]

So, Ezra is barely coming up on a year old. Recently she’s been acting sluggish and not eating. From everything I’ve been reading it says she should probably be going into brumation. It also has stated that if it’s their first one take them to the vet and make sure she is healthy enough to brumate. I had also been concerned that if Ezra is Brumating, she hasn’t pooped yet to go into brumating and a few scales she has that are not hardening and have been around for a few months and if you touch them she doesn’t like it.
So, I take her to the vet and ask her about brumation. She states of the heating, UVB light and basking light are up to par they shouldn’t be going into brumation in an eclousre setting. She then goes on to say that Ezra’s weight looks fine, she seems well hydrated, eyes look clear and then asks me about calcium levels. I’m then told I wasn’t giving her enough calcium and am provided with some liquid calcium. Vet then states that I should do a fecal matter test and blood work (but it’s about $400-ish...). I get the liquid calcium and start giving her some every 12 hours as prescribed and Buy a second UVB light. Ezra has started perking up but still won’t eat the roaches. She will eat meal worms occasionally if offered but even then she’ll only eat one.
NOW, she is having liquid poop and I’m wondering if it’s because she’s getting only liquid calcium in her tummy.
She is also still having problems with a few of her scales not hardening theirs like 8 total and the tip of her tail has always worried me.
I could really use any info for this whole situation. Should I go do blood work? Fecal test? Is the liquid calcium causing her to have diarrhea? What might be causing soft scales? Please help....

 

[Sadie]

So, Ezra is barely coming up on a year old. Recently she’s been acting sluggish and not eating. From everything I’ve been reading it says she should probably be going into brumation. It also has stated that if it’s their first one take them to the vet and make sure she is healthy enough to brumate. I had also been concerned that if Ezra is Brumating, she hasn’t pooped yet to go into brumating and a few scales she has that are not hardening and have been around for a few months and if you touch them she doesn’t like it.
So, I take her to the vet and ask her about brumation. She states of the heating, UVB light and basking light are up to par they shouldn’t be going into brumation in an eclousre setting. She then goes on to say that Ezra’s weight looks fine, she seems well hydrated, eyes look clear and then asks me about calcium levels. I’m then told I wasn’t giving her enough calcium and am provided with some liquid calcium. Vet then states that I should do a fecal matter test and blood work (but it’s about $400-ish...). I get the liquid calcium and start giving her some every 12 hours as prescribed and Buy a second UVB light. Ezra has started perking up but still won’t eat the roaches. She will eat meal worms occasionally if offered but even then she’ll only eat one.
NOW, she is having liquid poop and I’m wondering if it’s because she’s getting only liquid calcium in her tummy.
She is also still having problems with a few of her scales not hardening theirs like 8 total and the tip of her tail has always worried me.
I could really use any info for this whole situation. Should I go do blood work? Fecal test? Is the liquid calcium causing her to have diarrhea? What might be causing soft scales? Please help....

It is not uncommon for dragons to not poop for long periods of time--- did they do a calcium level or take X rays to see calcium levels? What are you using for a UVB? She does not need two UVB's one good one like one good bright white basking light--- thank god you didnt let them do a enema on her--- https://www.beardeddragon.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=252267
Please tell me what your using for a UVB ? Brand and bulb and where in the tank is it ? Basking temps need to be taken w/a digital probe thermometer NO stick ons they are inaccurate and temps need to be 95-110 --- I would stop the extra calcium unless she is actually showing low calcium like by test ---- if her urate starts coming out yellowish on the out side of it crusty yellowish thats too much calcium--- but runny poops could be caused by diet or lack of UVB -- but you need an actual test to show low levels or physical signs like MBD -- deformed bottom lip etc -- weak legs hard time walking -- I am going to post a website to find a reptile vet in your area -- I dont know if the one your going to is a reptile vet or if you trust this vet -- www.arav.org as far as the soft scales is it from previous shed ?

 

[HoomanSlave]

Depending on your location, you can buy a fecal test kit online for much less, follow the instructions, and send it in to a lab for testing.

 

[Julee1971]

So, Ezra is barely coming up on a year old. Recently she’s been acting sluggish and not eating. From everything I’ve been reading it says she should probably be going into brumation. It also has stated that if it’s their first one take them to the vet and make sure she is healthy enough to brumate. I had also been concerned that if Ezra is Brumating, she hasn’t pooped yet to go into brumating and a few scales she has that are not hardening and have been around for a few months and if you touch them she doesn’t like it.
So, I take her to the vet and ask her about brumation. She states of the heating, UVB light and basking light are up to par they shouldn’t be going into brumation in an eclousre setting. She then goes on to say that Ezra’s weight looks fine, she seems well hydrated, eyes look clear and then asks me about calcium levels. I’m then told I wasn’t giving her enough calcium and am provided with some liquid calcium. Vet then states that I should do a fecal matter test and blood work (but it’s about $400-ish...). I get the liquid calcium and start giving her some every 12 hours as prescribed and Buy a second UVB light. Ezra has started perking up but still won’t eat the roaches. She will eat meal worms occasionally if offered but even then she’ll only eat one.
NOW, she is having liquid poop and I’m wondering if it’s because she’s getting only liquid calcium in her tummy.
She is also still having problems with a few of her scales not hardening theirs like 8 total and the tip of her tail has always worried me.
I could really use any info for this whole situation. Should I go do blood work? Fecal test? Is the liquid calcium causing her to have diarrhea? What might be causing soft scales? Please help....

First of all the cage is too dark; I can tell you right now the problem is little to NO UVB. He needs UVB ASAP. Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70 percent of the tank. Make sure it’s a 10.0 the 5.0 is little to No uvb & make sure it’s the Reptisun. Without proper UVB, he can’t absorb Vitamin D or breakdown the calcium or be able to have healthy strong bones. He will end up with brittle/broken bones and MBD and eventually on his death bed. Also, are using a clear basking bulb? Clear only do not ever use colored or coiled bulbs. And he should not be to close to the heat or uvb it burns them and causes health issues. No closer than 10 inches away from the UVb is good & 8-14 for the heat. The UVB Reptisun needs replacing every 6mnths, people don’t knwk this & the uvb light will remain on, but emits little to NO uvb after the 6mnths . Also; U need to use repcal calcium powder to sprinkle once per day only 3-4 times a week and one day sprinkle herptivite vitamin powder. Only feed crickets & Dubia roaches and lots of greens/veggies no kale spinach or carrots. and u can do super worms after a year old. Also mist him with dechlorinated water 2-3 times a day and when he’s shedding pleas for more baths he should be getting 2 baths minimum for 15min in lukewarm & dechlorinated water. U can play mediation/spa music to relax him & massage him with your finger or soft toothbrush brushing downward in the direction of his scales. But don’t ever peel the skin off while he’s shedding it will cause bleeding. Buy Reptisafe & place a few drops for every cup on his drinking and bathing water. Tap water and chlorine dries their skin and destroys it; very bad for them. If u have sand remove it ASAP they ingest it and it destroys their tummy.also lights (heat amd uvb) on for 10-12 hours in the winter and 12-14 in the summer. No light at nite for sleeping

 

[HoomanSlave]

First of all the cage is too dark; I can tell you right now the problem is little to NO UVB. He needs UVB ASAP. Reptisun 10.0 T5 the length u order should cover 70 percent of the tank. Make sure it’s a 10.0 the 5.0 is little to No uvb & make sure it’s the Reptisun. Without proper UVB, he can’t absorb Vitamin D or breakdown the calcium or be able to have healthy strong bones. He will end up with brittle/broken bones and MBD and eventually on his death bed. Also, are using a clear basking bulb? Clear only do not ever use colored or coiled bulbs. And he should not be to close to the heat or uvb it burns them and causes health issues. No closer than 10 inches away from the UVb is good & 8-14 for the heat. The UVB Reptisun needs replacing every 6mnths, people don’t knwk this & the uvb light will remain on, but emits little to NO uvb after the 6mnths . Also; U need to use repcal calcium powder to sprinkle once per day only 3-4 times a week and one day sprinkle herptivite vitamin powder. Only feed crickets & Dubia roaches and lots of greens/veggies no kale spinach or carrots. and u can do super worms after a year old. Also mist him with dechlorinated water 2-3 times a day and when he’s shedding pleas for more baths he should be getting 2 baths minimum for 15min in lukewarm & dechlorinated water. U can play mediation/spa music to relax him & massage him with your finger or soft toothbrush brushing downward in the direction of his scales. But don’t ever peel the skin off while he’s shedding it will cause bleeding. Buy Reptisafe & place a few drops for every cup on his drinking and bathing water. Tap water and chlorine dries their skin and destroys it; very bad for them. If u have sand remove it ASAP they ingest it and it destroys their tummy.also lights (heat amd uvb) on for 10-12 hours in the winter and 12-14 in the summer. No light at nite for sleeping

Didn't I send you several links correcting some of this information? In multiple threads? Kale and carrots are both okay, you need more than 2 insects to feed, and superworms are not a good staple as you have suggested before. A beardie should be getting several different insects for its protein-BSFL, hornworms, silkworms, grasshoppers, discoids, red runners, mealworms (as adults), waxworms, butterworms, locusts, other fly larvae, and even earthworms can all be included. A beardie cannot have a balanced and varied diet when fed only 1 or 2 kinds of insect. In the wild, a beardie eats a wide range of food in order to get the nutrition it needs. In captivity, this cannot be perfectly replicated, but we can (and should!) still provide the variety required. Different feeders have different pros and cons (i.e, chitin, low calcium, high water content for cons, high calcium, protein-rich, and nutritious for pros), and by feeding a balanced diet they can have all of the pros and none/few of the cons.

I feel bad for your beardies and any you give care suggestions for, it sounds like they have no variety in their diet and are missing out on several important nutrients thanks to your misinformation. You most likely mean well, but this forum exists so that users can learn form each other, instead of ignoring advice, being intolerant, and spreading misinformation that affects QoL.

 

[Julee1971]

Didn't I send you several links correcting some of this information? In multiple threads? Kale and carrots are both okay, you need more than 2 insects to feed, and superworms are not a good staple as you have suggested before. A beardie should be getting several different insects for its protein-BSFL, hornworms, silkworms, grasshoppers, discoids, red runners, mealworms (as adults), waxworms, butterworms, locusts, other fly larvae, and even earthworms can all be included. A beardie cannot have a balanced and varied diet when fed only 1 or 2 kinds of insect. In the wild, a beardie eats a wide range of food in order to get the nutrition it needs. In captivity, this cannot be perfectly replicated, but we can (and should!) still provide the variety required. Different feeders have different pros and cons (i.e, chitin, low calcium, high water content for cons, high calcium, protein-rich, and nutritious for pros), and by feeding a balanced diet they can have all of the pros and none/few of the cons.

I feel bad for your beardies and any you give care suggestions for, it sounds like they have no variety in their diet and are missing out on several important nutrients thanks to your misinformation. You most likely mean well, but this forum exists so that users can learn form each other, instead of ignoring advice, being intolerant, and spreading misinformation that affects QoL.

Meal amd waxworks are a very cheap feeder!! It impacts them and destroys their digestive system!! Mine get Dubia roaches and crickets which r the best & safest. U can do hornworms and super worms only after a year of age their digestive tract cannot handle it any sooner. Plus I do 2plates of 2-3 veggies/2-3 greens everyday the Staple ones!! Carrots are high in vitamin A; once in a blue moon is on or don’t do it at all is safer and kale is high in Oxalates. Don’t be Cheap I reacue, save and rehome and have ones of my own that are in amazing health/shape!!! Mustard, collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas and Greek beans are everyday ones u can do ref peppers once in awhile!!!

 

[HoomanSlave]

Meal amd waxworks are a very cheap feeder!! It impacts them and destroys their digestive system!! Mine get Dubia roaches and crickets which r the best & safest. U can do hornworms and super worms only after a year of age their digestive tract cannot handle it any sooner. Plus I do 2plates of 2-3 veggies/2-3 greens everyday the Staple ones!! Carrots are high in vitamin A; once in a blue moon is on or don’t do it at all is safer and kale is high in Oxalates. Don’t be Cheap I reacue, save and rehome and have ones of my own that are in amazing health/shape!!! Mustard, collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas and Greek beans are everyday ones u can do ref peppers once in awhile!!!

1. Carrots contain vitamin A in the form of beta carotene. The body stores the beta carotene and converts it to vitamin A as needed, so there is no risk of overdose.
"Preformed vitamin A (retinol) comes only from animal fats that contain active vitamin A—such as liver, eggs, buttercream or cod liver oil—whereas carrots contain beta carotene, a provitamin A that is bioconverted to vitamin A."
-American Optometric Association
The only real issue with carrots is the high sugar content, which is why they should only be fed 1-2 times a week.

2. Kale doesn't have unhealthy amounts of oxalates, please check out these links: https://www.healwithfood.org/articles/oxalates-kale-spinach.php

Kale sheds bum rap on kidney stones - Medill Reports Chicago

By Angela Barnes Kale is one of America’s current health food crazes. Studies show the trendy veggie is exceptionally rich in nutrients, antioxidants and other cancer fighting properties. But now some critics are warning the ubiquitous leafy green super food may pose a risk. Website articles and...

news.medill.northwestern.edu

Oxalate Content of 750+ Foods

Oxalate (oxalic acid) content of 750+ foods with numbers from university and government sources.

oxalate.org

2. How do waxworms cause impaction? They're squishy little worms with a moisture content of 58.5%, the only problem is the fat content. They're less likely to cause impaction than superworms. The same goes for hornworms, they're soft bodied and the only chitin is in the head, while superworms are covered in chitin. A quick look at the chitin content for feeders proves this.

3. Mealworms are perfectly fine to feed an adult beardie every once in a while. They aren't the healthiest food around because of the fat and chitin content, but it will not "destroy their tummy". It's like any human dessert-it's fine in moderation, and of course you're going to have issues if it's all you eat, every day.

4. Crickets are not the best or safest, they can carry pinworms and don't have nearly as much nutritional value as black soldier fly larvae. They're better as an emergency food or treat. BSFL and silkworms are better by a landslide, and are a lot less work to care for. Discoid roaches are pretty much the same as dubias, but are legal in Florida.

5. You don't just need variety with salad, you need to feed a variety of protein. That can't be achieved if you completely avoid all chitinous foods. You can get a great variety of foods by rotating a couple staple insects, offering a few different treat bugs, and even providing food mixes and some more "exotic" canned bugs.

6. I'm not exactly "cheap", considering I provide a wide variety of food for my pets and provide the optimal cage sizes. Do I choose to provide affordable feeders and find ways to save money? Of course, but not at the expense of their health and diet quality. I choose to save money in efficient, safe ways, such as growing veggies, buying insects in bulk, and shopping at a discount store-not by picking the least expensive foods I can find at a pet store. Yes, mealworms are "cheap", but that doesn't mean I offer them frequently or to all of my herps. The same goes for waxworms. There's a lot of problems in the reptile community, and I don't think that whether or not you feed a beardie a mealworm is as big of an issue as breeding snake morphs with neurological issues or actual animal abuse, so why not try devoting your time and energy to stopping these practices instead?

7. Please link the sources that say BSFL and waxworms cause impaction, I'd like to see the ways they may be considered harmful.

Have a nice day!

 

[Julee1971]

1. Carrots contain vitamin A in the form of beta carotene. The body stores the beta carotene and converts it to vitamin A as needed, so there is no risk of overdose.
"Preformed vitamin A (retinol) comes only from animal fats that contain active vitamin A—such as liver, eggs, buttercream or cod liver oil—whereas carrots contain beta carotene, a provitamin A that is bioconverted to vitamin A."
-American Optometric Association
The only real issue with carrots is the high sugar content, which is why they should only be fed 1-2 times a week.

2. Kale doesn't have unhealthy amounts of oxalates, please check out these links: https://www.healwithfood.org/articles/oxalates-kale-spinach.php

Kale sheds bum rap on kidney stones - Medill Reports Chicago

By Angela Barnes Kale is one of America’s current health food crazes. Studies show the trendy veggie is exceptionally rich in nutrients, antioxidants and other cancer fighting properties. But now some critics are warning the ubiquitous leafy green super food may pose a risk. Website articles and...

news.medill.northwestern.edu

Oxalate Content of 750+ Foods

Oxalate (oxalic acid) content of 750+ foods with numbers from university and government sources.

oxalate.org

2. How do waxworms cause impaction? They're squishy little worms with a moisture content of 58.5%, the only problem is the fat content. They're less likely to cause impaction than superworms. The same goes for hornworms, they're soft bodied and the only chitin is in the head, while superworms are covered in chitin. A quick look at the chitin content for feeders proves this.

3. Mealworms are perfectly fine to feed an adult beardie every once in a while. They aren't the healthiest food around because of the fat and chitin content, but it will not "destroy their tummy". It's like any human dessert-it's fine in moderation, and of course you're going to have issues if it's all you eat, every day.

4. Crickets are not the best or safest, they can carry pinworms and don't have nearly as much nutritional value as black soldier fly larvae. They're better as an emergency food or treat. BSFL and silkworms are better by a landslide, and are a lot less work to care for. Discoid roaches are pretty much the same as dubias, but are legal in Florida.

5. You don't just need variety with salad, you need to feed a variety of protein. That can't be achieved if you completely avoid all chitinous foods. You can get a great variety of foods by rotating a couple staple insects, offering a few different treat bugs, and even providing food mixes and some more "exotic" canned bugs.

6. I'm not exactly "cheap", considering I provide a wide variety of food for my pets and provide the optimal cage sizes. Do I choose to provide affordable feeders and find ways to save money? Of course, but not at the expense of their health and diet quality. I choose to save money in efficient, safe ways, such as growing veggies, buying insects in bulk, and shopping at a discount store-not by picking the least expensive foods I can find at a pet store. Yes, mealworms are "cheap", but that doesn't mean I offer them frequently or to all of my herps. The same goes for waxworms. There's a lot of problems in the reptile community, and I don't think that whether or not you feed a beardie a mealworm is as big of an issue as breeding snake morphs with neurological issues or actual animal abuse, so why not try devoting your time and energy to stopping these practices instead?

7. Please link the sources that say BSFL and waxworms cause impaction, I'd like to see the ways they may be considered harmful.

Have a nice day!

Affordable Feeedrs!! Exactly then don’t own a Beardie!! Meal worms, Wax worms ans all the crap u are feeding is harmful!!! Do u rescue and rehome? Do u work with vets and breeders? NO!!!’ So Stop. I buy all organic and the best veggies and greens and 80 percent protein up to a year old then I do 50/50 after a year old!! YES I spend money on crickets Dubias horn and super worms!! Not cheap harmful crap!! “HooMan” you are a breeder and I despise you guys!! U wanna make millions off selling the Beardies but very poor husbandry/cheap/wrong lights & NO UVB or wrong UVb and the worst food!! And then when u sell him the new owners feed only kale and mealworms and then it’s a FAT/Sick Beardie with No calcium/impacted/fat with issues and dying due to NO Reptisun UVB!! Respect yoruself & GoAway!! Stop harming amd doign wrong!! We deal with you folks everyday!! It’s Horryfying

 

[Broly]

Affordable Feeedrs!! Exactly then don’t own a Beardie!! Meal worms, Wax worms ans all the crap u are feeding is harmful!!! Do u rescue and rehome? Do u work with vets and breeders? NO!!!’ So Stop. I buy all organic and the best veggies and greens and 80 percent protein up to a year old then I do 50/50 after a year old!! YES I spend money on crickets Dubias horn and super worms!! Not cheap harmful crap!! “HooMan” you are a breeder and I despise you guys!! U wanna make millions off selling the Beardies but very poor husbandry/cheap/wrong lights & NO UVB or wrong UVb and the worst food!! And then when u sell him the new owners feed only kale and mealworms and then it’s a FAT/Sick Beardie with No calcium/impacted/fat with issues and dying due to NO Reptisun UVB!! Respect yoruself & GoAway!! Stop harming amd doign wrong!! We deal with you folks everyday!! It’s Horryfying

I think I’d take advice from ‘HooMan’ over you any day. Someone who can’t articulate themselves, can’t reason or take any advice and constantly contradicts themselves isn’t someone I’d put my trust in. But I do have one Q for you, as you seem to think you know the answer to everything - Is there a way to block you so we don’t have to see your waffle when browsing the forum?

 

[HoomanSlave]

Affordable Feeedrs!! Exactly then don’t own a Beardie!! Meal worms, Wax worms ans all the crap u are feeding is harmful!!! Do u rescue and rehome? Do u work with vets and breeders? NO!!!’ So Stop. I buy all organic and the best veggies and greens and 80 percent protein up to a year old then I do 50/50 after a year old!! YES I spend money on crickets Dubias horn and super worms!! Not cheap harmful crap!! “HooMan” you are a breeder and I despise you guys!! U wanna make millions off selling the Beardies but very poor husbandry/cheap/wrong lights & NO UVB or wrong UVb and the worst food!! And then when u sell him the new owners feed only kale and mealworms and then it’s a FAT/Sick Beardie with No calcium/impacted/fat with issues and dying due to NO Reptisun UVB!! Respect yoruself & GoAway!! Stop harming amd doign wrong!! We deal with you folks everyday!! It’s Horryfying

1. I'm in vet school, so I do work with vets and breeders. Thanks for asking. If you despise breeders so much, why are you working with them?

2. Dubia roaches are what I consider "affordable", I get them for $0.12 each and with free shipping. I also offer BSFL, hornworms, the occasional superworm, and even some grasshoppers and other roach species. I only feed mealworms and waxworms to adult reptiles, and only as a Christmas/birthday treat. If you look through my posts, you'd notice I've told at least 5 people that mealworms are bad staples in the diet and dangerous in large quantities or a big size.

3. I haven't laughed this hard in ages. I don't breed because I believe there's enough pets in rescue centers around the world. I also don't have the space or supplies for breeding any animal, aside from feeder insects. The beardies we have available in the hobby are all pretty inbred, and soon we'll end up with neurological issues in certain morphs if their breeding continues without adding any new bloodlines imported from Australia. The only animals I breed are mourning geckos, which are parthenogenetic, so they technically breed themselves. I don't make millions from it, they all go to a friend who has a larger colony.

4. I don't even know what to say about your assumption about my UVB lights, other than I've used the Reptisun 10.0 in all my arid setups and it's what I always recommend.

5. Plenty of breeders are decent people who treat their dragons well, it's the backyard breeders, big box pet store breeders, and unethical breeders that harm their dragons and make the hobby look bad. It's these people that are more prominent and what the community focuses on. Small, local breeders or rescues with a good reputation are a great choice.

6. I also use good veggies, I grow my own greens year-round and grow veggies outdoors in the summer. When I can't grow my own veggies, I buy from the farmer's market or the organic produce aisle at local stores. I also provide some edible flowers, herbs, and cactus from specialty stores. Not only does my beardie get variety and a balanced diet, but so do my other pets. They all have at least 3 staple veggies and a mix of greens and/or insects (except the geckos, who have a few different flavors of diet premix and then a couple of small feeder insects).

7. ...Did you even read the links and research I sent you on kale and carrots? Many countries do not have much selection when it comes to greens, and some people have no choice but to use kale.

8. Realistically speaking, breeders spend more money caring for their animals than what they make. It's impossible to make "millions" off of selling any reptile, because it's not a cheap hobby. I'd rather earn money through a stable job and treat all my animals well.

9. The majority of my posts on diet are about "Less bad feeders, more nutritious insects, more variety", and I've never recommended mealworms for young dragons or as a frequent treat. Bearded dragons, like humans or any other animal, can and do get bored of eating the same thing over and over again.

10. Almost all reptile owners want to save money, and find ways to do so without sacrificing quality care. You can save (and even make) hundreds by breeding insects, building enclosures, growing your own food, making your own hides and platforms, using coupons, buying used equipment, and using space and resources wisely.

11. And the rest of us deal with your rudeness and assumptions every day, and we're getting tired of tolerating your constant hate and impatience with new owners. Some people, as you've noticed, have already snapped.

 

[HoomanSlave]

@Julee1971 by the way, a 100w bulb is only going to heat a 40 gallon adequately. A 150 watt is often necessary for a wood or glass 4x2x2 enclosure to be heated properly. If you were using a digital thermostat+dimmer (as you should be with any heat source), "roasting" a bearded dragon to death wouldn't be an issue.

Heat bulbs are not a "one size fits all" situation and usually require some trial and error. PVC tanks hold more heat and humidity than wood tanks, so they may not need as high of a UVB wattage for the temperature gradient. Smaller tanks for babies can be deadly if they contain a 100+ watt bulb, because it can't establish a proper temperature gradient.

 

[Jericakasmira]

ok, whoa, there is a lot of information here. Again, I am new to breaded dragons, Ezra is my first, so I ask for patience while I try to get EVERYTHING corrected...I badly want to do what is right and healthy and good for my beardie. Ok, so to the person who suggested to the website to find a reptile vet near me, thank you. Unfortunately, there isn't one within 500 miles of me per the website! Which is a little frustrating. However, I will try to provide you everything my vet said in hopes you guys can help me decipher what is being said. This was on the paper she gave back to me.
Weight(lb): 0.63
H.R.: 70
Pain: 0/5
CRT: 1-2 sec
MM: Pink
Attitude: BAR
Comments: 0.29 kg

Before this vet I went to another one but did not like how fast I was in and out of there and felt like I wasn't able to ask questions, however, I did a fecal matter test with him and Ezra had some pinworms. He stated that the level was found in regards to pinworms but it's been a few months since I went to him.
I am going to include some pictures of Ezra's cage. I am working on getting a 120-gallon tank for her because I did not realize a 40 gallon would be too small for her when she got older.

Update on her behaviors, she now doesn't want me to touch her. She is skittish and jumpy now and I do not understand why...I have held her every day since I got her and I have never seen this behavior before. She is basking a lot and sits up straight while she basks but the skittishness is really worrying me. She has also been really dark in color lately. She still has these scales that are very hurty to her. I am not sure if it is from the last shed or not, but the last shed was quite some time ago. I stopped the calcium because of the liquid poop, and now she is back to no poop and won't eat. I am currently waiting for her to poop so I can take it in for a test. Again, maybe she is going into brumation but as a first-time owner, I am feeling worried because I do not know if she is sick or not.

And if you have updates for my cage for her, can you give it to me as if I am as dumb as a box of rocks? because I am not understanding the lingo yet for bulbs and housing things....

 

[Jericakasmira]

Here are the pictures

 

[Bostonfinest]

Meal amd waxworks are a very cheap feeder!! It impacts them and destroys their digestive system!! Mine get Dubia roaches and crickets which r the best & safest. U can do hornworms and super worms only after a year of age their digestive tract cannot handle it any sooner. Plus I do 2plates of 2-3 veggies/2-3 greens everyday the Staple ones!! Carrots are high in vitamin A; once in a blue moon is on or don’t do it at all is safer and kale is high in Oxalates. Don’t be Cheap I reacue, save and rehome and have ones of my own that are in amazing health/shape!!! Mustard, collard greens, dandelions, endives, yellow squash, butternut squash, snap peas and Greek beans are everyday ones u can do ref peppers once in awhile!!!

If your husbandry is on point mealworms does not cause impaction and neither does Waxworms. For you to say only feed Crickets and Dubia roaches have me question you experience with Beardies. Silkworms are the best graders and BSFL is great feeders as well

 

[Bostonfinest]

1. Carrots contain vitamin A in the form of beta carotene. The body stores the beta carotene and converts it to vitamin A as needed, so there is no risk of overdose.
"Preformed vitamin A (retinol) comes only from animal fats that contain active vitamin A—such as liver, eggs, buttercream or cod liver oil—whereas carrots contain beta carotene, a provitamin A that is bioconverted to vitamin A."
-American Optometric Association
The only real issue with carrots is the high sugar content, which is why they should only be fed 1-2 times a week.

2. Kale doesn't have unhealthy amounts of oxalates, please check out these links: https://www.healwithfood.org/articles/oxalates-kale-spinach.php

Kale sheds bum rap on kidney stones - Medill Reports Chicago

By Angela Barnes Kale is one of America’s current health food crazes. Studies show the trendy veggie is exceptionally rich in nutrients, antioxidants and other cancer fighting properties. But now some critics are warning the ubiquitous leafy green super food may pose a risk. Website articles and...

news.medill.northwestern.edu

Oxalate Content of 750+ Foods

Oxalate (oxalic acid) content of 750+ foods with numbers from university and government sources.

oxalate.org

2. How do waxworms cause impaction? They're squishy little worms with a moisture content of 58.5%, the only problem is the fat content. They're less likely to cause impaction than superworms. The same goes for hornworms, they're soft bodied and the only chitin is in the head, while superworms are covered in chitin. A quick look at the chitin content for feeders proves this.

3. Mealworms are perfectly fine to feed an adult beardie every once in a while. They aren't the healthiest food around because of the fat and chitin content, but it will not "destroy their tummy". It's like any human dessert-it's fine in moderation, and of course you're going to have issues if it's all you eat, every day.

4. Crickets are not the best or safest, they can carry pinworms and don't have nearly as much nutritional value as black soldier fly larvae. They're better as an emergency food or treat. BSFL and silkworms are better by a landslide, and are a lot less work to care for. Discoid roaches are pretty much the same as dubias, but are legal in Florida.

5. You don't just need variety with salad, you need to feed a variety of protein. That can't be achieved if you completely avoid all chitinous foods. You can get a great variety of foods by rotating a couple staple insects, offering a few different treat bugs, and even providing food mixes and some more "exotic" canned bugs.

6. I'm not exactly "cheap", considering I provide a wide variety of food for my pets and provide the optimal cage sizes. Do I choose to provide affordable feeders and find ways to save money? Of course, but not at the expense of their health and diet quality. I choose to save money in efficient, safe ways, such as growing veggies, buying insects in bulk, and shopping at a discount store-not by picking the least expensive foods I can find at a pet store. Yes, mealworms are "cheap", but that doesn't mean I offer them frequently or to all of my herps. The same goes for waxworms. There's a lot of problems in the reptile community, and I don't think that whether or not you feed a beardie a mealworm is as big of an issue as breeding snake morphs with neurological issues or actual animal abuse, so why not try devoting your time and energy to stopping these practices instead?

7. Please link the sources that say BSFL and waxworms cause impaction, I'd like to see the ways they may be considered harmful.

Have a nice day!

I agree 100%.

 

[Sadie]

Here are the pictures

Please get rid of the red bulb -- colored bulbs hurt their eyes can can cause long term eye damage - plus it disrupts the sleep if your running them at nite - dragons like cool and dark to sleep nothing under 65 and nothing over 75 -- please get rid of the coil UVB they are inadequate --- you need a long tube fixture for a UVB here is some info on UVB's I recommend a 24" fixture for your tank -- you only need one good bright white basking bulb that keeps temps 95--110 for a adult dragon taken w/ a digital probe thermometer -- stick ons are inaccurate --- and a good UVB -- you have so many domes on the top of your tank ---
Which UVB light should I use?

The best UVB light is a ReptiSun 10.0 fluorescent tube HO (Or Arcardia 12% in the UK). Compact or coil bulbs do not emit the proper amount of UVB light for a bearded dragon, and should not be used. Other brands, such as the Zilla Desert Series and ReptiGlo have been known to cause eye problems and other health issues with bearded dragons, and should be avoided. The reason that some UVB lights (Zilla, ReptiGlo, coils/compacts, ect.) are considered dangerous is because the wavelength of UVB that they emit is shorter and more intense than the wavelength of the "safe" lights (ReptiSun, Arcadia). UVB lights should be replaced every 6 months. The T5’s are a strong bulb and only need to be replaced once a year – the T 8 every 6 months--- where as the T 8 are not as strong—they need to be placed inside the tank the T 5 10.0 bulb approx 12-15 inches from basking spot – the T 8 approx 6-8inches from basking spot—the cover needs to be off the bulb for full effect of the UVB rays--
If you need more help please ask

 

[Julee1971]

If your husbandry is on point mealworms does not cause impaction and neither does Waxworms. For you to say only feed Crickets and Dubia roaches have me question you experience with Beardies. Silkworms are the best graders and BSFL is great feeders as well

The safest, healthiest and cleanest that are low in fat are Crickets and dubias. U can incorporate some Super worms and Hornworms after 1 year of age; but be careful they are very high in FAT. Meal, wax and Silk are CHEAP Feeders that impact, make them FAT and destroy their digestive system!!!

 

[HoomanSlave]

The safest, healthiest and cleanest that are low in fat are Crickets and dubias. U can incorporate some Super worms and Hornworms after 1 year of age; but be careful they are very high in FAT. Meal, wax and Silk are CHEAP Feeders that impact, make them FAT and destroy their digestive system!!!

Silkworms aren't cheap... It's at least $15 for a small package of them and then twice that for shipping. They're also very squishy and can't do any damage to their stomachs. I suggest you watch a video or read an article on how different worms look and feel before you accuse them of causing impaction.

"Silkworms are ok b/c they are bred especially for bearded dragons and there is little or no risk for impaction b/c they are soft and squishy"
"Silkworms are good though, they are similar to the hornworm in the fact that they're squishy and have no shell at all."
-Beardeddragon.org

 

[Bostonfinest]

I think I’d take advice from ‘HooMan’ over you any day. Someone who can’t articulate themselves, can’t reason or take any advice and constantly contradicts themselves isn’t someone I’d put my trust in. But I do have one Q for you, as you seem to think you know the answer to everything - Is there a way to block you so we don’t have to see your waffle when browsing the forum?

1. I'm in vet school, so I do work with vets and breeders. Thanks for asking. If you despise breeders so much, why are you working with them?

2. Dubia roaches are what I consider "affordable", I get them for $0.12 each and with free shipping. I also offer BSFL, hornworms, the occasional superworm, and even some grasshoppers and other roach species. I only feed mealworms and waxworms to adult reptiles, and only as a Christmas/birthday treat. If you look through my posts, you'd notice I've told at least 5 people that mealworms are bad staples in the diet and dangerous in large quantities or a big size.

3. I haven't laughed this hard in ages. I don't breed because I believe there's enough pets in rescue centers around the world. I also don't have the space or supplies for breeding any animal, aside from feeder insects. The beardies we have available in the hobby are all pretty inbred, and soon we'll end up with neurological issues in certain morphs if their breeding continues without adding any new bloodlines imported from Australia. The only animals I breed are mourning geckos, which are parthenogenetic, so they technically breed themselves. I don't make millions from it, they all go to a friend who has a larger colony.

4. I don't even know what to say about your assumption about my UVB lights, other than I've used the Reptisun 10.0 in all my arid setups and it's what I always recommend.

5. Plenty of breeders are decent people who treat their dragons well, it's the backyard breeders, big box pet store breeders, and unethical breeders that harm their dragons and make the hobby look bad. It's these people that are more prominent and what the community focuses on. Small, local breeders or rescues with a good reputation are a great choice.

6. I also use good veggies, I grow my own greens year-round and grow veggies outdoors in the summer. When I can't grow my own veggies, I buy from the farmer's market or the organic produce aisle at local stores. I also provide some edible flowers, herbs, and cactus from specialty stores. Not only does my beardie get variety and a balanced diet, but so do my other pets. They all have at least 3 staple veggies and a mix of greens and/or insects (except the geckos, who have a few different flavors of diet premix and then a couple of small feeder insects).

7. ...Did you even read the links and research I sent you on kale and carrots? Many countries do not have much selection when it comes to greens, and some people have no choice but to use kale.

8. Realistically speaking, breeders spend more money caring for their animals than what they make. It's impossible to make "millions" off of selling any reptile, because it's not a cheap hobby. I'd rather earn money through a stable job and treat all my animals well.

9. The majority of my posts on diet are about "Less bad feeders, more nutritious insects, more variety", and I've never recommended mealworms for young dragons or as a frequent treat. Bearded dragons, like humans or any other animal, can and do get bored of eating the same thing over and over again.

10. Almost all reptile owners want to save money, and find ways to do so without sacrificing quality care. You can save (and even make) hundreds by breeding insects, building enclosures, growing your own food, making your own hides and platforms, using coupons, buying used equipment, and using space and resources wisely.

11. And the rest of us deal with your rudeness and assumptions every day, and we're getting tired of tolerating your constant hate and impatience with new

Here are the pictures

owners. Some people, as you've noticed, have already snapped.

The safest, healthiest and cleanest that are low in fat are Crickets and dubias. U can incorporate some Super worms and Hornworms after 1 year of age; but be careful they are very high in FAT. Meal, wax and Silk are CHEAP Feeders that impact, make them FAT and destroy their digestive system!!!

WRONG the safest and best nutrition is Silkworms and Dubia Roaches and BSFL... Crickets are okay but carry parasites. And die fast and when the the do they give off gas that will kill others So how are the the cleanest. You are giving out FALSE INFORMATION

 

[Bostonfinest]

Silkworms aren't cheap... It's at least $15 for a small package of them and then twice that for shipping. They're also very squishy and can't do any damage to their stomachs. I suggest you watch a video or read an article on how different worms look and feel before you accuse them of causing impaction.

"Silkworms are ok b/c they are bred especially for bearded dragons and there is little or no risk for impaction b/c they are soft and squishy"
"Silkworms are good though, they are similar to the hornworm in the fact that they're squishy and have no shell at all."
-Beardeddragon.org