Hello everyone! I have a few questions if any of you could answer it'd be amazing. So, I purchased and brought home a (I was told 6 months old) roughly 8-9 inches from head to tail bearded dragon. He's only stayed on the hot side of his aquarium and seems to not be interested in hunting his food. If I place food right in front of his face he will sometimes eat it. I'd like to know if this a normal behavior considering this is his 3rd day home. I'd also like to know how long I should wait before handling (I've researched and I saw 1-2 weeks but still would like confirmation). Lastly, I'd like to know what you would recommend for a weekly diet, I've got collard greens, waxworms, & medium dubia roaches. Please let me know!
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Advice and Inquires
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Diet sounds ok but I would feed the wax worms sparingly -- too many and too often can cause liver issues they are a fatty worm-- as far as the eating right now hes going thru relocation stress and the stress marks will go away in time but he needs time to acclimate to his tank and surroundings -- next the MOST important part for this to happen w/ the appetite and stress marks is the surface basking temps for a 6 month old 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer --next UVB it should be a long tube fixture there are 3 that I can recommend ---- if your using a coil UVB they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health issues --- if you have a coil please get it replaced immediately-- I can post links for UVB's if you need them -- not all long tube fixture UVB's are good ones --- please handle him in the tank for now -- try hand feeding him some treat worms like super or horn worms --- you might try some BSFL on top of his salads -- he needs to learn to trust you and slowly going w/ him will accomplish this but he needs his husbandry to be on parHello everyone! I have a few questions if any of you could answer it'd be amazing. So, I purchased and brought home a (I was told 6 months old) roughly 8-9 inches from head to tail bearded dragon. He's only stayed on the hot side of his aquarium and seems to not be interested in hunting his food. If I place food right in front of his face he will sometimes eat it. I'd like to know if this a normal behavior considering this is his 3rd day home. I'd also like to know how long I should wait before handling (I've researched and I saw 1-2 weeks but still would like confirmation). Lastly, I'd like to know what you would recommend for a weekly diet, I've got collard greens, waxworms, & medium dubia roaches. Please let me know!
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale info it is outdated
I can post websites for worms / roaches and BSFL
Thank you for the quick reply! As far as the lighting goes I believe I have it all setup properly. I've got the Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 HO T5 and 100W Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp for the heat lamp. What would you recommend I feed on a daily basis and how many times per day? Also, how long do you think I should wait until I begin training/handling? Also, after what day should I get worried if he's still not active?Diet sounds ok but I would feed the wax worms sparingly -- too many and too often can cause liver issues they are a fatty worm-- as far as the eating right now hes going thru relocation stress and the stress marks will go away in time but he needs time to acclimate to his tank and surroundings -- next the MOST important part for this to happen w/ the appetite and stress marks is the surface basking temps for a 6 month old 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometer --next UVB it should be a long tube fixture there are 3 that I can recommend ---- if your using a coil UVB they are inadequate and will cause all kinds of health issues --- if you have a coil please get it replaced immediately-- I can post links for UVB's if you need them -- not all long tube fixture UVB's are good ones --- please handle him in the tank for now -- try hand feeding him some treat worms like super or horn worms --- you might try some BSFL on top of his salads -- he needs to learn to trust you and slowly going w/ him will accomplish this but he needs his husbandry to be on par
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html ignore the kale info it is outdated
I can post websites for worms / roaches and BSFL
Ok so lets get the UVB placed and distanced ---- where do you have it now? Your screen on the tank is going to determine where it goes -- and you want surface basking temps of 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometers- these will help him acclimate to his tank and surroundings- dragons acclimate at different times -- so may go a couple of months some may go a week or two - is he sporting stress marks now ? that would be normal -- appetite will come as he gets used to his tank and surroundings -- as long as hes eating something that is good - its when they completely quit eating all together is when to get concerned -- feed salads everyday and he should be getting his staple insect every day maybe two times a day depending on how much salad hes eating etc -- right now he needs protein every day main insect dusted lightly w/ calcium D3 5 x per week ONE time per feeding if being fed more than once a day ---- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week ONE time per feeding --- once he turns a year old he will drop to insects 2-3 times per week and the dusting of the insect once per week of D3 and calcium w/ NO D3 and NO phosphorus -- your UVB has determined that ---Thank you for the quick reply! As far as the lighting goes I believe I have it all setup properly. I've got the Zoo Med ReptiSun 10.0 HO T5 and 100W Zoo Med Repti Basking Spot Lamp for the heat lamp. What would you recommend I feed on a daily basis and how many times per day? Also, how long do you think I should wait until I begin training/handling? Also, after what day should I get worried if he's still not active?
UVB and heat lamp are 12 inches from the highest points of each side. And he has very light stress marks on his stomach right now. He's currently basking.Ok so lets get the UVB placed and distanced ---- where do you have it now? Your screen on the tank is going to determine where it goes -- and you want surface basking temps of 95-100 taken w/ a digital probe thermometers- these will help him acclimate to his tank and surroundings- dragons acclimate at different times -- so may go a couple of months some may go a week or two - is he sporting stress marks now ? that would be normal -- appetite will come as he gets used to his tank and surroundings -- as long as hes eating something that is good - its when they completely quit eating all together is when to get concerned -- feed salads everyday and he should be getting his staple insect every day maybe two times a day depending on how much salad hes eating etc -- right now he needs protein every day main insect dusted lightly w/ calcium D3 5 x per week ONE time per feeding if being fed more than once a day ---- vitamins w/ beta carotene 2 x per week ONE time per feeding --- once he turns a year old he will drop to insects 2-3 times per week and the dusting of the insect once per week of D3 and calcium w/ NO D3 and NO phosphorus -- your UVB has determined that ---
So the UVB is on top of the screen? If so is the screen a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type- screens block 30% of UVB rays ---UVB and heat lamp are 12 inches from the highest points of each side. And he has very light stress marks on his stomach right now. He's currently basking.
It's a bunch of circles with holes so I'd say like a screen door.So the UVB is on top of the screen? If so is the screen a fine mesh like a screen door or a wide hole type- screens block 30% of UVB rays ---
Ok
Ok it needs to go in the tank-- 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor - you can use picture wire hangers-or long plastic zip ties-or fishing line-It's a bunch of circles with holes so I'd say like a screen door.
Not doing this increases the chances of him getting MBD?Ok
Ok it needs to go in the tank-- 12-15 inches directly above the basking decor - you can use picture wire hangers-or long plastic zip ties-or fishing line-
Yes- and other health issues- he needs full uvb rays to stay healthyNot doing this increases the chances of him getting MBD?
Okay. Another question how can I be sure he's fully acclimated to the new environment? He is not skittish when I put my hand in the enclosure but he still doesn't interact just sorta sits there.Yes- and other health issues- he needs full uvb rays to stay healthy
His stress marks will go away all together and his appetite will increase- just work w/ him he should get active as wellOkay. Another question how can I be sure he's fully acclimated to the new environment? He is not skittish when I put my hand in the enclosure but he still doesn't interact just sorta sits there.
